View Full Version : When do you justify buying a new car over fixing what you have?
Eurodriver
06-03-13, 16:52
I'm looking to pick up a 2012 V6 Mustang 6 speed w/ 6,000 miles for $20800 OTD. Has a full Ford bumper to bumper warranty for 2 more years or 30,000 miles. Power train for another 4 years or 44,000 miles. Test drove it and its fun.
Before you scoff at the '12 V6 be advised it has ~290 hp at the wheels and does a 1/4 mile just on the wrong side of 14 seconds.
The car I currently have is an '06 w/ 72k miles and is in pretty good shape but its a Mercedes and repairs are costly. Hell, maintenance alone is costly. Oil changes are $120 (I do them myself) brake pads are several hundred dollars (I do them myself) and any sort of major transmission work you're looking at $3000+
I honestly don't know what to do. I don't want to drive this car too long and lose the great resale value it has if something goes wrong. ($11000+)
Ditch it and move on.. JMO.. Ron
Ditch it. I wouldn't own a German car past the 36mo free maintenance plan most offer.
Get rid of it. The maintenance costs aren't worth it.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Crow Hunter
06-03-13, 18:05
Personally I justify buying a new vehicle when the old gets beyond my willingness to pay to fix it.
It varies with me.
I had one Toyota Corolla that I loved. I was around 265,000 miles when I hit a patch of black ice and got close with a pine tree. I was only going 35 MPH and the damage wasn't too bad, but it was more than the vehicle was worth and more than I was willing to put into it.
The replacement Corolla was a program car. It had multiple problems, eventually the ECM died on me, right down the road from the dealership. They offered to fix it for me. I told them no, it wasn't worth it to me because I didn't trust that car.
As long as you aren't going negative equity and don't make a biannual habit of it, I would ditch it.
I don't drive for fun though, cars are a just a necessary evil and I go with cheap/reliable/easy to replace. If I could get a Glock car, I would. Even if it looked like a box with 4 wheels and had a max speed of 75 MPH.:D
If you're satisfied with your current car, keep it until you can (and want to) pay cash or the repair/maintenance bills outstrip what a newish car would cost you in monthly payments.
You're a high roller, just put the 'stang on your CC and roll with it...
ramairthree
06-03-13, 18:41
Depending on what car someone owns, and the maintenance to holding of value balance,
typically somewhere around 6 to 11 years it becomes cheaper to get a new car.
Well, first things first: if you buy the Mustang you'll have to change your forum name from Eurodriver to TrailerParkFerrariDriver. :jester:
A V6 Mustang? Seriously?! :bad:
But, I digress...
If you want it and can afford it, get the Mustang.
Alaskapopo
06-03-13, 19:30
I'm looking to pick up a 2012 V6 Mustang 6 speed w/ 6,000 miles for $20800 OTD. Has a full Ford bumper to bumper warranty for 2 more years or 30,000 miles. Power train for another 4 years or 44,000 miles. Test drove it and its fun.
Before you scoff at the '12 V6 be advised it has ~290 hp at the wheels and does a 1/4 mile just on the wrong side of 14 seconds.
The car I currently have is an '06 w/ 72k miles and is in pretty good shape but its a Mercedes and repairs are costly. Hell, maintenance alone is costly. Oil changes are $120 (I do them myself) brake pads are several hundred dollars (I do them myself) and any sort of major transmission work you're looking at $3000+
I honestly don't know what to do. I don't want to drive this car too long and lose the great resale value it has if something goes wrong. ($11000+)
Rule of thumb is when repair costs equate to more than a new car payment would be on a monthly basis.
Pat
Smuckatelli
06-03-13, 19:33
I'm looking to pick up a 2012 V6 Mustang 6 speed w/ 6,000 miles for $20800 OTD. Has a full Ford bumper to bumper warranty for 2 more years or 30,000 miles. Power train for another 4 years or 44,000 miles. Test drove it and its fun.
Before you scoff at the '12 V6 be advised it has ~290 hp at the wheels and does a 1/4 mile just on the wrong side of 14 seconds.
The car I currently have is an '06 w/ 72k miles and is in pretty good shape but its a Mercedes and repairs are costly. Hell, maintenance alone is costly. Oil changes are $120 (I do them myself) brake pads are several hundred dollars (I do them myself) and any sort of major transmission work you're looking at $3000+
I honestly don't know what to do. I don't want to drive this car too long and lose the great resale value it has if something goes wrong. ($11000+)
Are you making payments on the Mercedes?
Will you be making payments on the Mustang?
Have you factored in the insurance costs?
Behold my 12 year old car.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/288088_10151142798723909_1398501551_o.jpg
Purchased for $14k with 27,500 miles on it two years ago.
New cars are ****ing stupid (though I am a millennial...har har har). You can get a sports car from the early 00s for less than 10 grand with mid miles and a lot of life left. 20k for a v6 mustang? You could get a terminator or C5 FRC/z06 for 20k.
Maintenance can be a pain in the dick if you have a higher mileage car you beat the shit out of, but eventually you've fixed everything and get new car life out of it again! (half kidding).
Alaskapopo
06-03-13, 19:39
Behold my 12 year old car.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/288088_10151142798723909_1398501551_o.jpg
Nice!
Pat
Behold my 12 year old car.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/288088_10151142798723909_1398501551_o.jpg
WS6?
20k for a v6 mustang? You could get a terminator or C5 FRC/z06 for 20k.
...or any number of other vehicles more respectable than a V6 Mustang. :sarcastic:
WS6?
Si, previous owner converted it from an auto to the T56, wouldn't have even known if he didn't tell me.
Si, previous owner converted it from an auto to the T56, wouldn't have even known if he didn't tell me.
Nice! I have an '02 WS6 with 18k miles on it in my garage.
theblackknight
06-03-13, 20:33
Behold my 12 year old car.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/288088_10151142798723909_1398501551_o.jpg
Purchased for $14k with 27,500 miles on it two years ago.
20k for a v6 mustang? You could get a terminator or C5 FRC/z06 for 20k.
This soo bad.
There is nothing wrong with a V6 pushing 300, but how much does a mustang weight and how does it handle? What's the suspension like? The last time I was interested in mustangs, the 05' GT500 still had leaf springs in the rear :rolleyes::thumbdown:
If you could live thru you, I'd find a used s2000, boost it to 8psi for a usable, easy spooling 50-60 hp bump, and then go from there.
I recently had to scrap my civic because it likewise basically died, and found a 92 miata:D. It looks gay, but its fun as hell to drive. It rained today, so I tested out the lsd in the rear, its works:D
sent from mah gun,using my sights
You don't have to justify anything.
If you can reasonably afford to buy something, that is all the justification one needs. For myself, I just keep fixing them until repairs cost as much or more than replacement.
steyrman13
06-03-13, 21:24
If you're satisfied with your current car, keep it until you can (and want to) pay cash or the repair/maintenance bills outstrip what a newish car would cost you in monthly payments.
It IS a pain to have to perform maintenance or if you can't on your own, put it in the shop. However, now days with the costs of newer cars (which still require maintenance) you would need to spend 20k plus on repairs before they would be equal. Unless you "rent" a car by buying newer but not brand bew and hopefully problem free and trade ever 3-4 years. For 20k more you could replace every bushing, wear item, engine and transmission and axles for that price.
With that said. Mercedes can get VERY expensive. I usually choose Ford Chevy (diesel) Honda Toyota car/SUV because of price and less maintence ymmv. However honda is becoming proud of their parts for the newer models
Crow Hunter
06-03-13, 21:31
As an aside, you only live once and you can't take it with you.
As long as you have your bases covered and aren't swimming in debt and aren't planning on relying on everyone else to support you when you retire, get something you will enjoy.
I grew up in a "car" family and I got that out of my system when I was younger. When my father passed away I turned down a 1970 SS 396 Chevelle and a 1987 Buick Regal T-type with 17,000 miles as on it as an early inheritance because I didn't want to deal with the upkeep. My brother has to keep up with them now. ;)
I just want to get from point A to point B now.
GeorgiaBoy
06-03-13, 21:32
I rarely keep a vehicle longer than 3 years/75K miles, thus it stays under warranty the whole time. I'll trade it in and buy new once that point reaches. Usually that means that I'll usually only have to fork up 5-10K each time I want a new vehicle.
Crow Hunter
06-03-13, 21:35
I rarely keep a vehicle longer than 3 years/75K miles, thus it stays under warranty the whole time. I'll trade it in and buy new once that point reaches. Usually that means that I'll usually only have to fork up 5-10K each time I want a new vehicle.
That is what my Dad used to do.
I just can't make myself do that. I can do A LOT of repairs with that $5-10K every 3 years. :D
Suwannee Tim
06-03-13, 21:35
Unless you are good at predicting the future it is difficult to answer your question. Case in point, my 1999 Olds Intrigue, I did front wheel bearings, cleaned and packed the axles, brakes all around then the climate control failed. Wife toughed it out with a hot car one summer, I promised her a new car before it got hot again, she just got a new 2013 Honda Accord LX, the cheapest Accord you can buy. Had I know in 2010 what I know now the Olds would never have gotten bearings and axle parts. You just have to kind of take your best SWAG. My experience with German cars is limited but painful. My experience with Fords is extensive and excruciating. I wouldn't own either under any reasonably foreseeable circumstances. I toyed with the idea of a V6 but couldn't justify the premium in up front cost, and extra gas and insurance costs. Here again, there is no formulaic method of decision making. You want a V6, I couldn't justify it.
GeorgiaBoy
06-03-13, 21:38
That is what my Dad used to do.
I just can't make myself do that. I can do A LOT of repairs with that $5-10K every 3 years. :D
Yeah... but when you drive GM you never know whats going to happen after 100K! :jester:
My current GMC has 65K miles on it and I've had it for a little over 3 years. Waiting so I can get my hands on one of the new 2014's.
Ditch it. I wouldn't own a German car past the 36mo free maintenance plan most offer.
What he said ^. However to answer your question i generally drive my cars till they fall apart and become more expansive to maintain then their value. Also because i hate car payments.
My current car is a 01 Toyota Solara 4cyl with 230k. I bought it in 07 with 80k. Maintenance wise its almost all original. Did 2 100k recomanded tune ups (water pump, timing belt and plugs), 2 front struts, a radiator at 200k and thats really it without counting tires and batteries. It looks like shit now from a few accidents but every day i dont have a car payment is a good day in my book
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Crow Hunter
06-03-13, 21:42
Yeah... but when you drive GM you never know whats going to happen after 100K! :jester:
My current GMC has 65K miles on it and I've had it for a little over 3 years. Waiting so I can get my hands on one of the new 2014's.
Actually, GM was all my Dad would buy.:D
My 1999 Silverado was good until it hit 110k when the transmission went south. But I put a Jasper in for $2,300 and it is still going strong at 154k and it makes a great truck for hauling dirty labs and mulch.;)
Ditch it. I wouldn't own a German car past the 36mo free maintenance plan most offer.
I know VWs are not Mercs, but I've been driving VWs since 1988 and except for my 89 Golf that ended up in an accident on the A92 Autobahn near Landshut in early 1992, I've kept them all for long periods of time and relatively low maintenance. (When I moved to Germany in 1991, I brought my car with me -- it was a US Model Golf GT 1.8).
Current is a 2006 Passat and except for routine maintenance (oil, brakes, etc) the only thing I have had to pay for was an A/C compressor that failed :-(. Did have an issue with the PCV and flap parts (from memory) that were covered under an extended warranty so did not have to pay for them.
Again, I know a VW is not a Merc. But it is German. I'll buy a VW again and will also look at the Audi.
I personally would not buy a Ford Mustang. Does not float my boat. But if you like it, and can afford it, do it.
--
Eurodriver,
If you sold the Benz and bought the mustang, wouldn't you have to change your screen name?
theblackknight
06-03-13, 22:12
You guys are being too sensible.
Euro, DO THIS:D
http://www.drifted.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/DSC_8614_WEDrifted.jpg
Eurodriver,
If you sold the Benz and bought the mustang, wouldn't you have to change your screen name?
Already covered...
Well, first things first: if you buy the Mustang you'll have to change your forum name from Eurodriver to TrailerParkFerrariDriver.
I just bought a 2014 Acura and kept my other two vehicles because they were worth more to me than their market value. Both are 11 year old Toyotas--4 Runner with 70,000 and a Tacoma with 150,000--which have been super maintained. So I drive the truck, and my wife chooses one or the other depending on her destination.
The Acura is my first awd.
Despite being told otherwise, I found a dealer who would discount his newly arrived 2014s.
I plan to have the dealer do all oil changes until the warranty expires even though I'll have to drive 100 miles to do so.
Eurodriver
06-04-13, 02:07
The Benz has been paid off for quite some time. I really haven't had any expensive repairs with this car, minus a $5000 balance shaft gear replacement that was done under warranty....thank God.
Not swimming in debt. Good credit. I can easily put enough cash down plus the trade in to snag any car that sells for $25000 at <2% and financing only $10000. That's a $180 /mo payment for 5 years if I did my math right.
Already factored in insurance. Will only increase $260 a year.
My issue is the mustang. Its not really something I'd ever considered but I don't see how else you can get 305 HP for $20k.
Also the 12s have a lot going for them.
What do you recommend? <25k otd, manual transmission, 25+ mpg highway, looks cool and is unique? I.e. not a civic.
Spurholder
06-04-13, 08:19
You guys are being too sensible.
Euro, DO THIS:D
http://www.drifted.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/DSC_8614_WEDrifted.jpg
Dude, S2000's are more addictive than cigarette smoking/heroin/meth. I've owned TWO AP2's (MY05 and a MY07), and they were great at everything from decent fuel economy to great performance (VTEC engagement in 6th gear, yo).
And, damn it, you bringing it up in this thread will probably cause me to go out and try to find another one... so thanks :D
Smuckatelli
06-04-13, 08:20
Mustangs are a pain to carry range gear in, not a lot of room on the trunk.
Spurholder
06-04-13, 08:25
Not swimming in debt. Good credit. I can easily put enough cash down plus the trade in to snag any car that sells for $25000 at <2% and financing only $10000. That's a $180 /mo payment for 5 years if I did my math right.
Already factored in insurance. Will only increase $260 a year.
What do you recommend? <25k otd, manual transmission, 25+ mpg highway, looks cool and is unique? I.e. not a civic.
Disregard the performance numbers and go test drive a Scion FR-S (or its Subaru twin). It's a decent car for $25k.
Review from Clarkson here:
http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/jeremy-clarkson-car-of-the-year-toyota-gt86-2012-12-7
I'm looking to pick up a 2012 V6 Mustang 6 speed w/ 6,000 miles for $20800 OTD. Has a full Ford bumper to bumper warranty for 2 more years or 30,000 miles. Power train for another 4 years or 44,000 miles. Test drove it and its fun.
Before you scoff at the '12 V6 be advised it has ~290 hp at the wheels and does a 1/4 mile just on the wrong side of 14 seconds.
The car I currently have is an '06 w/ 72k miles and is in pretty good shape but its a Mercedes and repairs are costly. Hell, maintenance alone is costly. Oil changes are $120 (I do them myself) brake pads are several hundred dollars (I do them myself) and any sort of major transmission work you're looking at $3000+
I honestly don't know what to do. I don't want to drive this car too long and lose the great resale value it has if something goes wrong. ($11000+)
Without knowing your income (or disposable income), I would say keep the MB as it is (most likely) paid for, has low mileage and you seem competent to do a lot of the minor repairs. I would also seek out a mechanic that works in your area that specializes in German cars. They are typically MUCH cheaper than going to the dealership.
Then, take the money you would have paid a month for a new car into the bank. Save it and in a few years, you will be able to pay cash for whatever you want + get money for your old car.
C4
brickboy240
06-04-13, 11:26
I have watched my wealthy in-laws and other relatives fart with Mercedes and Jaguar long enough to know I NEVER want any part of owning one.
I owned two 3 series Bimmers and found out quickly why these cars are mostly owned by rich people! The BMWs run great, look great and handle like a dream but they are finicky cars that do not make good commuter/daily driver beater cars at all. Repairs were often and very expensive. Many parts were dealer-only and the electrical problems were terrible.
I think the Europeans got the motors and suspensions down well but do not do the electronics as well as the Japanese. Many I know that own Lexus, Acuras and Infinitis do not have the electrical nightmares of those that own Benzes, Bimmers, etc.
That said, I have found Volvo and Saab (...yeah..Saab) to be much more reliable and the cars are easier to work on and parts are easier to get and not nearly as expensive.
The most reliable vehicles I have ever owned were Toyota pickups. I will never be without a Toyota pickup. Love my 06 Tundra. It has Glock-like reliability! LOL
That said...yes...I'd get away from that Benz as fast as you can. However...my experiences with a couple of Ford trucks tells me that Ford is not a good direction to run into.
Good luck with the Mustang but be aware that they are not the most reliable cars and their re-sale is usually not very good.
-brickboy240
I have watched my wealthy in-laws and other relatives fart with Mercedes and Jaguar long enough to know I NEVER want any part of owning one.
I owned two 3 series Bimmers and found out quickly why these cars are mostly owned by rich people! The BMWs run great, look great and handle like a dream but they are finicky cars that do not make good commuter/daily driver beater cars at all. Repairs were often and very expensive. Many parts were dealer-only and the electrical problems were terrible.
I think the Europeans got the motors and suspensions down well but do not do the electronics as well as the Japanese. Many I know that own Lexus, Acuras and Infinitis do not have the electrical nightmares of those that own Benzes, Bimmers, etc.
That said, I have found Volvo and Saab (...yeah..Saab) to be much more reliable and the cars are easier to work on and parts are easier to get and not nearly as expensive.
The most reliable vehicles I have ever owned were Toyota pickups. I will never be without a Toyota pickup. Love my 06 Tundra. It has Glock-like reliability! LOL
That said...yes...I'd get away from that Benz as fast as you can. However...my experiences with a couple of Ford trucks tells me that Ford is not a good direction to run into.
Good luck with the Mustang but be aware that they are not the most reliable cars and their re-sale is usually not very good.
-brickboy240
I have owned or do own the following:
Honda Prelude 90, 91, 99
Nissan Pathfinder Lexus IS300
Toyota Tundra
BMW 330I
BMW 328I
Toyota Landcruiser
Of all these cars, the Nissan gave me the most hassle. IMHO, the electrical problems associated with the BMW's was the older models (90's- early 2000's).
In regards to your comments about MB, my best friend had high end one ($100K type) and basically said to me "Never Again").
C4
My Infiniti G37 has been a great reliable car so far with 75k miles on it. 330 hp VQ motor is wonderful and on long road trips I get close to 30 mpg. They don't hold their value as well as a Lexus or Acura so you should be a or to get a G35/37 for what you are looking to spend. I bought my 2010 in 2011 with 18k miles for 27k. Plus the 11 speaker Bose stereo in it is marvelous.
Also it ran a 13.8@103 here in Phoenix when it was 95 degrees out on 91 piss.
My old partner bought a 2011 V6 Mustang new for around 26k. Now with 60k miles on it it's blue booking at 12k.
I'm a fan of the Mustang but the new V6s come with shitty tires(for a sports car) and are limited at 114. They do handle pretty good though and that new 3.7 is potent.
Smuckatelli
06-04-13, 12:42
Good luck with the Mustang but be aware that they are not the most reliable cars and their re-sale is usually not very good.
-brickboy240
I have to disagree with you there....;)
I have had 5 Mustangs altogether, only one of them gave me a problem; the 4th one blew the intake manifold coming out of Cordoba. It took a month to get the part from CONUS, in the meantime the Spanish Ford dealership used putty and put some miles on it. Two of the cylinders cracked. When we returned to CONUS the local Ford dealership replaced the engine and paid all expenses incurred to include rentals in the States and Spain.
The 1st Mustang (89) was my favorite....picked it up in Okinawa drove it there a little and then numerous miles in the States. Ended up shipping it to the Central African Republic....drove it into the Congo to visit pygmie villages numerous times. Never had a reliability issue with it.
I have to disagree with you there....;)
I have had 5 Mustangs altogether, only one of them gave me a problem; the 4th one blew the intake manifold coming out of Cordoba. It took a month to get the part from CONUS, in the meantime the Spanish Ford dealership used putty and put some miles on it. Two of the cylinders cracked. When we returned to CONUS the local Ford dealership replaced the engine and paid all expenses incurred to include rentals in the States and Spain.
The 1st Mustang (89) was my favorite....picked it up in Okinawa drove it there a little and then numerous miles in the States. Ended up shipping it to the Central African Republic....drove it into the Congo to visit pygmie villages numerous times. Never had a reliability issue with it.
I agree with you here. My wife had an 04 V6 that was a good slow car. Everyone I know with them have had no big issues outside of things breaking from racing them.
Eurodriver
06-04-13, 14:16
Well I'm really trying to keep my monthly payments below $200/mo . My income is decent, but unstable. For example I already know Summer 2014 I will not make any income for two solid months.
That limits me to about $10000 to finance plus $8500-$10000 for what I get for my car trading it or selling it plus whatever I want to put down (preferably $0)
I'd be open to a 2012 Hyundai or something but dam it i can't go from a Mercedes to a Hyundai. I've used the line from Glen Gary glen Ross way too many times.
Eurodriver
06-04-13, 14:47
Simple: WRX
Elaborate.
Revised Requirements are it must be <$20000, original, manual transmission and have 2 years of factory warranty left.
I bought my 06 in 07. Had 11k miles on it and cost me 18,500. I have seen multiple 1-2 year old models with low mileage listed at 21-23k which you should be able to negotiate down to >20k.
Since 09 they have had a bigger turbo that is rated at 265hp but dynos have shown they make more. A simple stage 2 setup (exhaust and tune) will put you up around 400. Stock they run mid 13s and stage 2s have been known to go 12.5. 2012s have a new wider stance suspension that improves handling, which was good to begin with.
If I had $20k and back seat wasn't on the list of requirements, I would be somewhere buying a C5 Z06 right now. However, since you need the 2yrs of warranty left, I guess that's out.
With your requirements, the Mustang seems like a good option, but I don't know if I could bring myself to not just save the extra scratch and get a GT.
My '05 WRX was awesome and I had very good luck with it, but there are a lot of people right now in newer Subarus kabooming motors. And I don't know how much they beefed up the 5spd since mine but that was a known weak part as well.
If I had $20k and back seat wasn't on the list of requirements, I would be somewhere buying a C5 Z06 right now. However, since you need the 2yrs of warranty left, I guess that's out.
With your requirements, the Mustang seems like a good option, but I don't know if I could bring myself to not just save the extra scratch and get a GT.
My '05 WRX was awesome and I had very good luck with it, but there are a lot of people right now in newer Subarus kabooming motors. And I don't know how much they beefed up the 5spd since mine but that was a known weak part as well.
I know the 07 STi had a bad tune and was killing some of the motors but I haven't heard much about any problems with the new ones. They did beef up the 5 speed in 08. Its still not as strong as the 6 speed but its stronger than the older ones.
I had a friend who had a 2010 with a Gt30r turbo in it. Made over 400 whp on pump gas. He saved up the money to buy a 6 speed and decided one day to try and break his 5 speed. It took about 3 months of beating on the thing with 6k rpm clutch drops and spinning all 4 tires to do it.
Smuckatelli
06-04-13, 16:59
Well I'm really trying to keep my monthly payments below $200/mo . My income is decent, but unstable. For example I already know Summer 2014 I will not make any income for two solid months.
That limits me to about $10000 to finance plus $8500-$10000 for what I get for my car trading it or selling it plus whatever I want to put down (preferably $0)
I'd be open to a 2012 Hyundai or something but dam it i can't go from a Mercedes to a Hyundai. I've used the line from Glen Gary glen Ross way too many times.
As much as you are going to hate it......go with the Hyundai. You can stay within your price range with a brand new car and warrantee. Your insurance costs will be less as will your gas. Produce a copy of your DD-214 and they will knock $500 off. there are some other deals that they will offer also.
You could get a new Elantra GLS with 6 speed manual for $19k. when your fiscal situation stabilizes....you can get whatever car you want but for know you need a set of wheels that won't require you to sell off gear when times are tight.
I know the 07 STi had a bad tune and was killing some of the motors but I haven't heard much about any problems with the new ones. They did beef up the 5 speed in 08. Its still not as strong as the 6 speed but its stronger than the older ones.
I had a friend who had a 2010 with a Gt30r turbo in it. Made over 400 whp on pump gas. He saved up the money to buy a 6 speed and decided one day to try and break his 5 speed. It took about 3 months of beating on the thing with 6k rpm clutch drops and spinning all 4 tires to do it.
If you go to truedelta and look at repair reports there are more engine failure reports than I'd like to see. I mean overall they're reliability ratings are good, but subaru warranty service on WRXs is not really what I want to be counting on.
If you go to truedelta and look at repair reports there are more engine failure reports than I'd like to see. I mean overall they're reliability ratings are good, but subaru warranty service on WRXs is not really what I want to be counting on.
How many of those repairs are on cars that were modified incorrectly then returned to stock and taken to the dealership.
I'm not hearing about blown engines on NASIOC.
theblackknight
06-04-13, 21:45
Dude, S2000's are more addictive than cigarette smoking/heroin/meth. I've owned TWO AP2's (MY05 and a MY07), and they were great at everything from decent fuel economy to great performance (VTEC engagement in 6th gear, yo).
And, damn it, you bringing it up in this thread will probably cause me to go out and try to find another one... so thanks :D
The power to weight, 50/50 balance, rigid frame and suspension tuned to keep the rear end tracking made it one of the best mountain twisty touring car we have.
You wont find a F20/22 engine rotting in a scrap yard because everyone wants to swap it into their _______.
Maybe one day.
A friend of mine has a sweet S200 with close to 300k miles on it. Finally replaced the engine at 200k. He recently made it into a magazine.
militarymoron
06-04-13, 22:33
..when it just doesn't make sense to put more money into an older car. i obviously take much longer to realize this, as i'm finally selling my daily driver, which i've had since 1985. and it wasn't even new then (1978 datsun 280Z).
with a family, i just needed my daily driver to also fit my 5-year old's child seat. so, the Z is up for sale and this past march i bought a subaru BRZ.
..when it just doesn't make sense to put more money into an older car. i obviously take much longer to realize this, as i'm finally selling my daily driver, which i've had since 1985. and it wasn't even new then (1978 datsun 280Z).
with a family, i just needed my daily driver to also fit my 5-year old's child seat. so, the Z is up for sale and this past march i bought a subaru BRZ.
You lucky son of a bitch!
My best friend was all ready and set to sign the papers on a BRZ but NONE of the dealers here in Az are willing to sell their for less than 5k over MSRP. Its not that my friend couldn't pay that much, hell the equity he has in his 2012 M3 he would make money in a trade, but its just the principle. Around here its probably at least 20 FRS for every 1 BRZ
Id buy one as well but Ill throw my back out putting kids in it.
Eurodriver
06-05-13, 04:01
Decisions decisions. Wtf.
I like Hyundai but Hondas are nice too.
With my trade I can get a 2012 Honda civic Lx with 18k miles financing 10k and paying $180/month. Similar cars by Hyundai can be found for that price.
I did some math and at 1250 miles a month my fuel costs in my Mercedes are $275 a month and in the civic would be $145 a month. So it'd really be a net loss of only $50 a month and the quiet ride of a Benz. When you factor in the insane maintenance costs of my vehicle id actually save money with a civic.
The_War_Wagon
06-05-13, 05:52
When the cost of repairs, is higher than the value of the vehicle!
That's why I finally got rid of my 16 year old Grand Marquis, and moved up to a four year old Jeep.
militarymoron
06-05-13, 08:31
You lucky son of a bitch!
My best friend was all ready and set to sign the papers on a BRZ but NONE of the dealers here in Az are willing to sell their for less than 5k over MSRP. Its not that my friend couldn't pay that much, hell the equity he has in his 2012 M3 he would make money in a trade, but its just the principle. Around here its probably at least 20 FRS for every 1 BRZ
Id buy one as well but Ill throw my back out putting kids in it.
considering that this is the FIRST new car i've bought for myself (excluding family/shared cars), i think i deserve it, at age 45 :D
tell your friend to check out colorado dealers - folks are buying them out of state and bringing them back due to better prices.
Cars are subjective items. You can always find enough reasons to get a new one. People can talk you out of buying or talk you into buying a new one all they want, but if you have it in your heart to have a new car, you will end up with it.
So reluctantly, I will try to talk you off the edge.
I had a Mercedes, so I know how much it cost to own and operate them. I've had Hondas, Acura, KIA and VW. The way to get the most out of your money is to keep a car for a long time. I had the Mercedes for 11 years, before that I had a Honda Prelude and drove it for 7 years. Traded the MB for an Acura TL and kept that for 11 years.
You will rarely know when a huge expense is going to occur. I got rid of the MB after 11 years when my trusted mechanic friend told me that I had an oil leak in the engine block and it would cost over $3000 to repair. I factored in the age and the repair cost, I reasoned that if I pour $3000 into the car, I will not be able to recover that if I sell the car. So I traded the MB for the Acura.
I recently sold the Acura for $3000 (212,000 miles) and put that cash into a new VW Passat. BTW, the VW is an excellent car, it's not what I perceived it to be. It is very comparable to its higher end Audi brothers in quality. While shopping for cars, I also looked into the Hyundai Sonata. The Hyundai's quality is up there with any other Asian cars (read Japanese). The Koreans have come a long way since their tin can Excel of the late 80s. The warranty on the Hyundai and Kia are 100,000 miles for the power train!
I sold and bought new cars because I had the money saved up for that purpose. I would not do it if I knew my job and income would not be stable. Buying a car and financing it while knowing the income may not come in for several months is looking for trouble.
The justification to buy a car based on fuel economy is hog wash. Do the math. I will show the worst case comparison.
Let's compare a V8 truck that gets 15 miles per gallon versus a compact car that gets 30 miles per gallon. Assume you drive 15,000 miles a year and gas is $3.50 per gallon.
Compact fuel economy car - 15,000/30 = 500 gallons x $3.50 = $1750 per year on gas.
V8 truck - twice the consumption as the small car - $3500 for gas in a year.
So if you own a gas guzzling V8 and it's paid for, and you go out and buy/trade for a smaller fuel efficient car, let's look at the up front cost. Assume that the V8 is paid for and would bring $7000 cash (substitute your own actual number for your car in the calculation). You want a Honda Civic that cost $18000. You would have to cough up $11000 from your pocket.
Since your saving in gas is $1750 per year (per above calculations), it would take you (11000/1750 = 6.28 years) an average of 6 years to break even.
Now if the older car is troublesome and would require a lot of maintenance to keep it running, then the example above would not work. Or the recovery would be quicker. But keep in mind if your current car is not worth a lot of money or if the desired newer car is more expensive than the example then it may take longer to break even.
A Mustang? it may have a lot of HP and sexy, I believe that it will lose its value quicker and will turn into a rattle trap sooner. It may be fast but the comfort and quiet ride will not be anywhere close to your MB.
Good luck.
ClearedHot
06-05-13, 11:02
The BRZ/FRS is a nice little sports coupe but they really should have put a turbo on it.
Have you considered an Evolution X? A buddy has one that's making 400whp with the stock turbo on E85, which is considered the norm for that car.
The best part is, it's got room for 5 people, a trunk that can fit a Pelican 1700 and blows away the Honda ricers and mullet sporting Camaro owners all day long. :D
militarymoron
06-05-13, 22:23
The BRZ/FRS is a nice little sports coupe but they really should have put a turbo on it.
Have you considered an Evolution X? A buddy has one that's making 400whp with the stock turbo on E85, which is considered the norm for that car.
The best part is, it's got room for 5 people, a trunk that can fit a Pelican 1700 and blows away the Honda ricers and mullet sporting Camaro owners all day long. :D
i don't like the look of the Evo's or the WRX STi; they don't look like 'sports cars', although i can't argue with the performance. the BRZ actually looks a lot like my Z. more HP would just get me in trouble.
Part of the deal that Subaru had with Toyota for the BRZ/FRS is that they couldn't change it for a certain period of time. Neither has stated what they time is but rumor is 3-4 years. As soon as that's up I'd highly expect the Subie to go turbo. I read that the new WRX motor is going to be a direct injection 2 liter turbo motor which seems REALLY similar to the BRZ motor.
mullet sporting Camaro owners all day long. :D
Eat a bag of dicks.
I have a buzzcut.
:lol:
ClearedHot
06-06-13, 00:24
i don't like the look of the Evo's or the WRX STi; they don't look like 'sports cars', although i can't argue with the performance. the BRZ actually looks a lot like my Z. more HP would just get me in trouble.
I actually kind of like the sleeper factor. Without the huge rear spoiler, an Evo or STi looks pretty much like any other sedan.
For me performance > looks.
In Europe/Asia, the Evo's also came in wagon form. I mean, could you imagine the look on some cocky Porsche/Corvette/Mustang owner's face as you blow past him on the track in this?
http://www.importracing.de/img/galerie/evo9wagen-01-01.jpg
ClearedHot
06-06-13, 00:40
Eat a bag of dicks.
I have a buzzcut.
:lol:
Hey buddy, I'm just going to leave this here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASoqnSa1uRE
:D
militarymoron
06-06-13, 08:49
I actually kind of like the sleeper factor. Without the huge rear spoiler, an Evo or STi looks pretty much like any other sedan.
For me performance > looks.
In Europe/Asia, the Evo's also came in wagon form. I mean, could you imagine the look on some cocky Porsche/Corvette/Mustang owner's face as you blow past him on the track in this?
i understand where you're coming from (with the sleeper look) - just never been me. i've always put handling over power, as i'm more of a canyon guy than straight-line speed guy, and the BRZ can hold its own in the tighter curves and has very usable power. same thing with my motorcycle - the skill comes in being able to take the turns, not go fast on the straights. i'm not impressed by faster bikes, just faster riders.
ClearedHot
06-06-13, 09:24
i understand where you're coming from (with the sleeper look) - just never been me. i've always put handling over power, as i'm more of a canyon guy than straight-line speed guy, and the BRZ can hold its own in the tighter curves and has very usable power. same thing with my motorcycle - the skill comes in being able to take the turns, not go fast on the straights. i'm not impressed by faster bikes, just faster riders.
I never said power was more important than other performance factors such as handling and braking. As a matter of fact, a good sports car should have a balance of all 3. Also, a lot has to do with the type of driving you'll be doing. A 200hp sports car might be fine for Auto-X or canyon driving where the majority of the time you're in 2nd gear. However, if you're doing road racing on tracks like Willow Springs with a long front straightaway, you will wish your car had the extra top end power. Sometimes you need more than just strong brakes, stiff suspension and sticky tires to be competitive on the track. For me, 400-450hp on a well setup chassis is perfect for the track.
militarymoron
06-06-13, 09:43
Also, a lot has to do with the type of driving you'll be doing.
totally agree - that's why i chose this car as it suits my needs/wants and how i drive. i'll never take this car to the track, which is why the track isn't part of the equation. if i ever went to willow, it'd be the streets of willow, not the big track.
i spent more than a year deciding which car to get to replace the Z. that was a major part of it - what car most closely matches the original Z in both 'spirit' as an affordable, fun sports car, and looks, and can still fit my kid in the back :)
(2nd runner up was the STi, by the way).
eurodriver - forgive the thread drift.
brickboy240
06-06-13, 11:14
Does longevity and reliability factor in?
For me...I don't care who makes it...as long as it stays together and does not give me troubles.
People get all hung up on horsepower or how it handles. If I am commuting in stop and go traffic....who gives a shit about those things? For me...more HP just gave me more tickets and bald tires.
Give me a car or truck that stays together, is easy to work on and does not leave me stranded. One that is safe in an accident, too. One that will also drive for a very long time. being unappealing to thieves is another plus.
...why my sedan is a Volvo.
-brickboy240
Hey buddy, I'm just going to leave this here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASoqnSa1uRE
:D
That's a timeless classic.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.