View Full Version : How to Lube an AR?--I've looked and looked
And haven't found any pics or link to how to properly lube an AR. I've seen plenty of directions, but no pics. I seen many threads on what kind of lube to use, but where do you put it? I'd like to show my kids. Did I miss something?
Gutshot John
04-07-08, 22:25
Good question. I'm curious too.
What's enough? What's too much?
BushmasterFanBoy
04-07-08, 22:33
I like my guns well lubed, but not to the point of attracting dirt and and debris to the exterior of the gun. In other words, well lubed, but not seeping out.
What I do is I lube all the parts of the bolt generously. I only put a tad on the bolt face, but everything else (extractor springs, bolt lugs, bolt tail, gas rings, etc) gets it globbed on so thick I just do it with my fingers. After that, I lube the bolt carrier. The interior portion of the BC gets lubed, with special attention to the cam pin area. Every mm of the BC is covered in lube. The cam pin, gets a good helping of lube. I lube the cam pin area before putting in the bolt, after the bolt, and after the cam pin, so it is downright drenched in lube. :eek:
After that, the firing pin gets a moderate coat, and the exterior of the BC gets it globbed on heavy. At this point I usually put a drop on the area where the bolt meets the BC and work the camming a few times. After that, the charging handle gets 1 drop on the top, where it rides in the upper, and 1 drop in the bottom where it rides the carrier, and spread out down the length of it.
In the upper itself, I put a drop on each side of the interior and spread it out with my finger, then put another drop or two in the camp pin slot. After that, it gets put together.
As for the lower, I don't find it to need as much lube as the upper, mostly because I'm not cleaning all of it off each time. However, after a few trips pile up, I will put a drop on the FCG parts and springs, and then relube the buffer and spring after they have been cleaned.
I hope this has been helpful, someone who knows more than I do will chime in shortly about how I've been doing it wrong and straighten this mess up.:D
The key is to use lube often, and place it liberally at stress/wear points.
Good directions, but I would like to see some pics.
Face_N_The_Crowd
04-07-08, 23:13
I'd like to hear from those who use GREASE.
I use Tetra on the bolt carrier where it contacts the upper receiver because I believe it reduces wear at the range, but I wouldn't use anything but oil on the carrier if I thought my gun might get the least bit dirty/dusty...maybe even just dry lube.
I believe there are several other posts on this topic. From my perspective, it should be well lubed, very well lubed. If there is too much it will be shot off or drip off. It doesn't have to be this much, but it should be nice and wet. Look for some older post by Pat Rogers and there are others as well that go in to more detail. Important to get the bolt and BCG with a liberal amount of lubricant.
I don't think that too many people use grease, at least that I have ran in to, but I'm sure there are some out there. I know Militec and Slip 2000 are very popular, and produce good results.
Grease user here.
I use the moly lithuim stuff you get at Chinamart for 3$ a big tube (I just wish it was white). I apply anywhere in the upper where I start to get "wear" and in places where the upper has metal on metal contact. I use a very liberal amount and let it shoot out if its too much. I have found that it keeps me from scraping as much carbon than when I just use CLP/ miltech. I get a nice wet mixture of the grease and CLP that stays put and wont dry out, it works for me. I run a mid length suppressed with a Halo. I find that now I have to clean every 500 rounds (sometimes earlier depending on quality of ammo) and I am usually able to just wipe everything down, clean the barrel and lugs and re lube. The only malfunctions I have anymore are ammo problems. I generally run the MEUSOC rifle qual course - or practice quick double taps and presentations. So I get the weapon hot - not white hot, but hot.
I'd like to hear from those who use GREASE.
I use a coat of high temp bearing grease on the cam pin. Not a ton, just enough. I also put a little on the carrier rails because it stays where it's supposed to be.
For the bolt, I've been trying Mobil 1. It seems to work good, but I've only been using it a month now.
Anyone ever try this stuff on the BC and bolt,
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html
I have used this stuff on my 1911 for matches and the crud just wipes out with a paper towel. I never thought about using it in an AR platform until you guys started talking about grease.
Good post, phoric. Do you have a url for that? It would be a good addition to my personal library.
And haven't found any pics or link to how to properly lube an AR. I've seen plenty of directions, but no pics. I seen many threads on what kind of lube to use, but where do you put it? I'd like to show my kids. Did I miss something?
Search for the Pat Rogers article on cleaning and lubricating the AR. It used to be a sticky here, but I believe it's posted elsewhere (with permission).
I had a great link, but see it no longer works...maybe you can find it: "How to lube an AR-15 by ADCO"...he says just one drop here and there and call it good: like each side of the carrier, on the rings, CH, etc.
http://users.rcn.com/thejackal/arlube/lube.htm
And one which does work, from the Box 'o' Truth:
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu49.htm
Sua Sponte Steve
04-10-08, 09:23
does anyone on this forum every use "Remoil"....ive been using it for years.
even when i was a Sawgunner, remoil kept my "Rusty kachunk sniper rifle" (aka. squad automatic weapon) in action , no failures.
does anyone on this forum every use "Remoil"....ive been using it for years.
even when i was a Sawgunner, remoil kept my "Rusty kachunk sniper rifle" (aka. squad automatic weapon) in action , no failures.
To paraphrase Skintop911 in one of his training AARs... Remoil is a light sporting lube, and best left in that environment.
Erick Gelhaus
04-10-08, 09:39
Mike Pannone's recently released M16 / M4 handbook has a pretty slick diagram, that when coupled with the articles / statements already mentioned, shows one where the lube - be it grease or oil - needs to go.
Chapter 8, pgs 45 - 47.
Sua Sponte Steve
04-10-08, 14:35
To paraphrase Skintop911 in one of his training AARs... Remoil is a light sporting lube, and best left in that environment.
really? i was wondering because i dont see many using the product on these boards, and it meets all mil. spec. requiremnts (MIL-C 16173d Grade 3), wich covers all lubricants used on weapons systems in the military. LSA, CLP...plus it has Teflon lubricant.
i know for a fact thats its the most highly used lubricant in "Spec ops" infantry units....what would make a more suitable lubricant for these weapons systems? besides LSA, CLP? I hear Miltec all the time, what would you guys recommend??
sorry about the thread jack!
A lot of guys here don't like CLP either. I think both CLP and Remoil will burn off faster than some of the alternatives.
I've been messing with Mobil 1, and can tell that the bolt stays better lubed for longer periods. But I always put CLP in the carrier ports at the end of a shoot to get the bolt/carrier carbon loosened up by the time I clean the gun the following day.
Jay Cunningham
04-10-08, 14:51
I will tell you what works for me. I have yet to have an AR malfunction in a class (not saying it won't ever happen) so I must be doing something right.
I use a heavy liquid oil, not grease. CLP is okay but a bit thin. I prefer Slip2000 but I'm coming to really like WeaponShield.
Okay, now for the big secret... drumroll...
Lube the bolt.
Inspect your AR for shiny wear spots and put a drop of lube wherever they are.
That's it. Every 350 to 500 rounds or so, put some lube in the BCG holes through the ejection port.
Wayne Dobbs
04-10-08, 15:19
Pat Rogers lubrication article emailed to you SIGfest...
Pat Rogers lubrication article emailed to you SIGfest...
I lubed my carbine according to Pat Rogers' instructions during his course. 1400 rounds later no issues with my carbine. I should take a picture of it to show how dirty it got - you can hardly tell it has a chrome BCG.
Spooky
That's it. Every 350 to 500 rounds or so, put some lube in the BCG holes through the ejection port.
Anyone have a picture of this - I've heard this mentioned before, and I'm not really clear. thx-c
RogerinTPA
11-07-08, 17:03
You would be surprised at what most SOF units use...Militec1 was used quite a bit earlier in the war. Most medium or heavy lubes will do, depending on the amount of shooting you do. I like Militec and Slip 2000 extreme weapons lube. You will hear the gambit here, Mobil 1, Militec, weapons shield, WD-40, different weapons grease to Sargent Major's Brew (a mix of motor oil, transmission fluid and God knows what else). Light lubes like WD-40 and Rem oil will work, but it won't last very long. Pick a good brand and go for it. It is more important to keep your weapon lubed, what ever you decide to use. I keep mine wet to the touch. If it's not glistening, it needs lube.
really? i was wondering because i dont see many using the product on these boards, and it meets all mil. spec. requiremnts (MIL-C 16173d Grade 3), wich covers all lubricants used on weapons systems in the military. LSA, CLP...plus it has Teflon lubricant.
i know for a fact thats its the most highly used lubricant in "Spec ops" infantry units....what would make a more suitable lubricant for these weapons systems? besides LSA, CLP? I hear Miltec all the time, what would you guys recommend??
sorry about the thread jack!
I use CLP, but am always open to something else.
BravoGolf59
11-09-08, 16:56
Pat Rogers lubrication article emailed to you SIGfest...
I would certainly appreciate a copy, too, if you would be so kind!
ETA: Oops! Just saw this was from last Spring!
cronus5116
11-09-08, 20:10
I use rem-oil, just spray it in for a few seconds I let the excess drip out, what I like about it is that the rest seems to kind of dry up, but the gun is still lubed. I'll probably get some flack for saying this though :(
Jay Cunningham
11-09-08, 20:14
I use rem-oil, just spray it in for a few seconds I let the excess drip out, what I like about it is that the rest seems to kind of dry up, but the gun is still lubed. I'll probably get some flack for saying this though :(
Deservedly so. ;) Rem Oil is too thin for use in a hard running AR.
cronus5116
11-09-08, 20:18
Deservedly so. ;) Rem Oil is too thin for use in a hard running AR.
I rarely shoot mine, but in my mini that I shoot ALOT, it works very well, but then again thats apples and oranges.
thopkins22
11-09-08, 23:00
i know for a fact thats its the most highly used lubricant in "Spec ops" infantry units:rolleyes:
And I know for a fact that this statement referring to rem oil is complete and total horse malarkey.
I rarely shoot mine, but in my mini that I shoot ALOT, it works very well, but then again thats apples and oranges.
I guess it would be useful to define "alot." How much in a session, and between cleanings?
Minis need lube as much as ARs. I've never seen Rem Oil go the distance in a gun running hard. Completely unsat for any serious purpose.
where's the nan-o-lube man,, when you need a few grins???? how can he miss this wonderful opportunity to make a pitch??? he' almost got me to wanting to try some.
SingleStacker45
11-10-08, 15:40
I've used wilson's ultima lube and mobil 1 synthetic 5-30 interchangeably for both rifle and pistol. Both work extremely well but I'm gradually changing over to mobil.
Mule
RogerinTPA
11-10-08, 16:59
Great minds think a like. I was just thinking about the nano lube dude.:D
where's the nan-o-lube man,, when you need a few grins???? how can he miss this wonderful opportunity to make a pitch??? he' almost got me to wanting to try some.
Grease on stuff that slides, oil on stuff that spins.
I use Regular engine Assembly lube for my grease(Moly based) and Zoom-Spout turbine oil for my oil.
thousands of rounds through many semi auto and bolt action rifles later and they all function fine.
cronus5116
11-10-08, 17:29
I guess it would be useful to define "alot." How much in a session, and between cleanings?
Minis need lube as much as ARs. I've never seen Rem Oil go the distance in a gun running hard. Completely unsat for any serious purpose.
Ive used up to 210-300 rounds (sometimes up to 400) before I cleaned the gun, (sometimes rapid fire) and it worked fine, but I disagree that Mini's need as much lube as an AR, Mini's are not as delicate, they are much more rugged, but in my case Remoil is all I use, and its never failed me (yet ) Now watch, as soon as I shoot my Mini it will give me problems :D
Also when I clean my AR I put a some of the Hoppe's No. 9 gun oil in it as well, so that might make a difference also.
I had a freind that was in desert storm and he said he never lubed his M16, that by lubing it, it would attract the fine dust and jam up his rifle, thats what he said I'm not going to try it, someone else can and let me know how it goes. :D
Cagemonkey
11-10-08, 17:53
And haven't found any pics or link to how to properly lube an AR. I've seen plenty of directions, but no pics. I seen many threads on what kind of lube to use, but where do you put it? I'd like to show my kids. Did I miss something?Look at TM 05538C-10/1A pages 28-34. As for lube, I'm currently using Mil-COMM's MC2500 oil. CLP works OK. Some time I want to try slip 2000 gun oil.
If you use oil, or anything of the like, and store the gun muzzle up..........in a safe, or in a patrol car...........where do you think all the lube goes?
It will end up in the bottom of the extension tube.
I mix Wilsons Ultima-Lube with some LaRue machine gunner lube..........and lube everything with that.
When I'm putting a few hundred rounds down range, I have a bottle of Mobil 1 handy, to keep the bolt and carrier wet...........AR's like their carriers wet.
thopkins22
11-11-08, 10:45
I had a freind that was in desert storm and he said he never lubed his M16, that by lubing it, it would attract the fine dust and jam up his rifle, thats what he said I'm not going to try it, someone else can and let me know how it goes. :D
Pat Rogers had a great article dealing with this. Your friend was lucky, not well prepared. I'm pretty sure the Army did a lot of testing that confirmed a well lubed gun will run better in every environment on earth with the exception of when temps drop WAY below zero.
That's correct. Someone posted the dust trials here a while back. The reliabily increase was painfully obvious when lube was used liberally in the bolt group.
BravoGolf59
11-11-08, 22:30
So, how did using Mobil 1 get started or become popular(?); this thread is the first I have heard of using it.
Jay Cunningham
11-11-08, 22:34
So, how did using Mobil 1 get started or become popular(?); this thread is the first I have heard of using it.
Because it's cheap.
So, how did using Mobil 1 get started or become popular(?); this thread is the first I have heard of using it.
IIRC, Armalite did a study on running the AR in locations where "gun oils" were not widely available. They mentioned motor oil running just fine.
I personally put it to the test where I work. I was the unlucky SOB that had to clean and lube all 50+ rental guns at a range. This included the entire Glock family, Sigs, S&W's, HK's, M4, UMP's, MP5's, AR's, etc.
These guns were shot just about every day, but cleaned maybe once a week, or as time permitted. What I noticed was when I used RemOil, they'd be dry almost instantly. When I used Hoppes or CLP, they'd last a little longer. I tried using grease, and I never saw an improvement, thought it took a LOT longer to apply.
I finally went with a synthetic 20w motor oil, and that has been keeping stuff running the longest. On the range, I would notice guns choking less...when I took a look at them a few days after having cleaned them, they'd still be wet. And when it came time to clean them they were still pretty wet, and it was much easier to wipe the gunk away than to have to scrub through crusty carbon and all.
I personally saw an improvement using motor oil, and I sure don't mind the savings. I still haven't gone through my first quart of the stuff.
Interesting thread. Thanks for sharing. Will have to refer back to this one.
I love the Mobile 1 also. Ounce for ounce, its VERY cheap and a quart will last for years. I have found that my guns (as stated above) are still very wet even after a heavy range sesion (600 rounds in an AR). I use 20w50.
I had to chime in here. Normally I am pretty quiet and I learn a lot from here. Reading about the soldier in Desert Storm that said he didn't lube his rifle, I agree, he was very lucky. I was in the Army in 89-93, and when I first enlisted, the teaching at Basic was to put just enough on to lube it, but "not attract dirt".
Well, I grew up shooting, and I knew a dry gun was just waiting to stick when you needed it to fire. All guns are going to attract dirt, especially when a person is sweating all over them. Might as well keep it lubed and dirty instead of dry and dirty and failing. I always had the cleanest when it came time to inspect them too. Just wiped off. Now for inspection I went light oil, but for field I always kept that bolt wet. Funny thing, I NEVER once had a failure, this was with the old Break Free CLP that would separate, I notice the newer stuff doesn't separate. Matter of fact, at a few qualification trips, three or four soldiers asked to borrow my 16 when theirs failed, I tried to tell them, but they were engrained with the "it will attract dirt" mentality. Oh well, mine just kept right on going.
As far as the Mobil 1, I have been using it with great results for 12-15 yrs. I started using it in my cars and trucks and liked the technology, so figured I would use it in my pistols and rifles with excellent results. I have tried others, including Weapon Shield, and just stick to Mobil 1. I do mix a little tranny fluid in the oil and find that it keeps the carbon suspended much better than oil alone, since tranny fluid is designed to do that. I did like WS, but can't justify spending more than Mobil 1 costs, and since I just collect what is left in the bottles after an oil change, it is basically free. It would have been thrown away.
Until I have some catastrophic failure of lube, this is what I will continue to use. I don't expect everybody to buy into it, and could care less if they do, I have had good results.
I lube the bolt and carrier whenever it looks dry, but have only fired about 8-900 rds in one day, and it was still wet, so I just cleaned and relubed. My buddy that shoots with me insists on using BF CLP, and will put lube on about every 200 rds when it starts burning off to keep his running without stoppages. I laugh at him sometimes.:p
So are the people using motor oil using that for ALL lubing/oiling purposes in the weapons or are there places that it's not appropriate?
Now I realize that, I've been out of the Corps for over a dozen years now, but when I was in, CLP was all that we were allowed to use. With that said, we'd sometimes use Hoppes to clean with.
I'd like to point out, though, Hoppes #9 was really good for cleaning parts, but it isn't a lubricant itself, it's a solvent.
Remember, use the right product for the right purpose. A solvent will help clean something, but it's not a lubricant. A lubricant will let something slide easier, but it's really not a cleaner.
Some things are okay at multiple uses (CLP, for an example), but, often won't excel at any, in such cases.
If you need a penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster, or Kroil. If I need a water displacer, like inside my distributor cap, then I'll use WD40 (but I don't use WD40 as a lubricant, or a solvent). If I need a good lubricating oil, I usually will use 3-in-1 oil.
Rem Oil is okay, but I agree, it dries too quickly for my liking. CLP is fine... not the strongest cleaner, but it does lubricate. Hoppes I clean with, but then wipe it all out, then oil it w/ CLP.
Have to admit, I like the idea of using Mobil1. I would think STP might work well on a bolt carrier, now that I think about it.... don't know if I'll try that or not.....
vicious_cb
11-14-08, 22:40
is it me or is machine gunners lube just synthetic motor oil?
it looks, smells, tastes just like mobile 1...
and I know alot of you have at least afew small bottles of the stuff
I like Breakfree LP which is made for full auto weapons. Their CLP will also work good. The Lp is a alittle thicker.
I use a touch of Wilson Combat grease on the "Rails" of the Carrier and on the Hammer/ Sear surfaces.
Rem Oil is really thin, But I like using it on Bolt action rifles and .22 caliper guns. Thinner is better on them.
To protect the outside of all my firearms I like Birchwood Casey Barricade. A quick mist, a wipe with a clean rag and the gun is protected for 6 - 9 months.
" Rust just doesn't happen aroound here"
The thing I find is it doesn't really matter what oil you like. But to use it. A gun that has been cleaned, oiled, and put away. Can come out of the closet after a year of sitting bone dry.
If I am shooting my AR's two day in a row. after the first day, I pull the Bolt / Carrier and re oil. It will burn off.
Jay Cunningham
11-15-08, 10:59
I like Breakfree LP which is made for full auto weapons. Their CLP will also work good. The Lp is a alittle thicker.
I use a touch of Wilson Combat grease on the "Rails" of the Carrier and on the Hammer/ Sear surfaces.
Rem Oil is really thin, But I like using it on Bolt action rifles and .22 caliper guns. Thinner is better on them.
To protect the outside of all my firearms I like Birchwood Casey Barricade. A quick mist, a wipe with a clean rag and the gun is protected for 6 - 9 months.
" Rust just doesn't happen aroound here"
The thing I find is it doesn't really matter what oil you like. But to use it. A gun that has been cleaned, oiled, and put away. Can come out of the closet after a year of sitting bone dry.
If I am shooting my AR's two day in a row. after the first day, I pull the Bolt / Carrier and re oil. It will burn off.
Thank you for at least attempting to answer the OP's original question, i.e. HOW to lube an AR and not "hey, my fave lube is this..."
BravoGolf59
11-15-08, 13:25
Thank you for at least attempting to answer the OP's original question, i.e. HOW to lube an AR and not "hey, my fave lube is this..."
That is probably my fault for asking about the Mobil 1. Hopefully this info helps the OP, also.
For the users of motor oil, what do you use to apply it to the different areas, as RemOil is aerosol, 3-n-1 has a squirt can, etc. Motor oil, you just pour in the motor. So, what tips do we have for applying motor oil? (Hopefully helps the OP again!)
ETA: This has been quite an informative thread!
Here is a link to the Maryland AR15 Shooters Site. It contains instructions and pictures for "Lubricating an AR15".
http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/lubricating.msnw
http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf
right click and save target as...
http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=532
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