View Full Version : Another newbie to the forum
I have to start by apologizing for posting on a couple other threads, should have just started one of my own, so.. here.. :)
I like to tinker and learn, so this forum should be most helpful on both counts, seems like quite a bit of knowledge here and I look forward to taking it in.
My first build was a varmint rifle. I was about to buy a bolt action 223 and accurize it when I started to talk to some friends about the AR platform. Well, one thing led to another and I got hooked..
First rifle was a 20" Wilson SST Wylde bull bbl 1:8 twist. Wanted accuracy, didn't really care about weight. Added a YM National Match chrome BCG behind that. It has proven to be quite the shooter, holding about a half MOA off the bipod with handloads on the first couple of projectiles that I've loaded for.
Presently topped with a Nikon M223 2-8 with M223 mount, but I suspect that a Leupold with a little more mag will be in it's near future.
It has a mil-spec LPK installed, except for the pins, The trigger/hammer engagement surfaces have been spit polished, a JP 3.5lb spring kit installed, a trigger adjustment screw and now it shoots more like a precision rifle should shoot. I built this during the 'craze', so quality triggers were pretty scarce at that time, gave me the opportunity to see if I could take a 'come-a-long winching a cabin across the rock bed' feeling trigger and make it more like a clean, crisp, smooth trigger. Well, it can be done.. :p
Learning to be a machinist in my very little free time, so building lowers was right in line with my training and learning curve, all my builds are self-cut lowers. I have done 0% forgings, 80% forgings and CNC'd the ones that I have on my three builds at the present time.
I know, with a user name that has the letters "Stick" in it, I need to get better pics, but for now, these will just have to do. I found the thread where you can post 'real pics' of your builds, so I will work on that soon!
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00587800x317_zps76d70187.jpg
The lower with a little more detail on the driver's side...
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00575800x495_zps24f63074.jpg
2nd build was an Hbar variety, something that one can actually carry comfortably. Again a self built lower, a 16" HBar 223 1:9 bbl, Mil-Spec trigger group with a little work (no trigger adjuster on this one). It still needs optics, trying to decide what to put on it, leaning towards a red dot sight. For now it sports irons, a laser and a flashlight for 'in the house' use if it is ever needed.
I have not really 'wrung' this one out at the range yet, but my initial testing indicates that it will be a shooter as well. It may get a can, needs a stock upgrade from the basic stock that it has, though I did add a cheek weld to it that helps quite a bit.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00563800x244_zps46fe3b40.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00567800x440_zps90e38b9b.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00581-1800x533_zps46cba5dd.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00583-1800x483_zpse2fd0947.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00597800x502_zps2dd06d5b.jpg
2nd build was an Hbar variety, something that one can actually carry comfortably. Again a self built lower, a 16" HBar 223 1:9 bbl, Mil-Spec trigger group with a little work (no trigger adjuster on this one). It still needs optics, trying to decide what to put on it, leaning towards a red dot sight. For now it sports irons, a laser and a flashlight for 'in the house' use if it is ever needed.
I have not really 'wrung' this one out at the range yet, but my initial testing indicates that it will be a shooter as well. It may get a can, needs a stock upgrade from the basic stock that it has, though I did add a cheek weld to it that helps quite a bit.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00563800x244_zps46fe3b40.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00567800x440_zps90e38b9b.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00584-1800x518_zps38aaf50e.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00583-1800x483_zpse2fd0947.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00597800x502_zps2dd06d5b.jpg
polymorpheous
06-21-13, 22:25
Looks like you put a lot of cheaper than dirt catalog junk on those self made lowers.
Research your parts before buying them.
The rear sight on the HBAR is too far forward.
Stake those castle nuts.
That rear sight has been moved, pic is old, but I have not staked the castle nuts yet, need to do that. Yes, the sight is a cheapie, got some parts from a friend to help with the builds, some of which will be upgraded as time goes on, some of which may remain.
Not sure how I double posted, too late now tho... :confused:
Oh and thanks for the input Polymorpheous! I am new to the AR world, have a lot to learn. I am not an IP, just a joe who likes to shoot things, wants to become proficient in my various weapons, as I do with other aspects of life. I will probably shoot less ammo in my lifetime than many of you shoot in a month's time, so.... I am always looking for suggestions for improvements in hardware, techniques, etc from those who have real world experience with these weapons and I know there is a wealth of knowledge out there to tap into. Thus my coming out of the closet here, to learn!
:thank_you2:
polymorpheous
06-22-13, 10:26
Oh and thanks for the input Polymorpheous! I am new to the AR world, have a lot to learn. I am not an IP, just a joe who likes to shoot things, wants to become proficient in my various weapons, as I do with other aspects of life. I will probably shoot less ammo in my lifetime than many of you shoot in a month's time, so.... I am always looking for suggestions for improvements in hardware, techniques, etc from those who have real world experience with these weapons and I know there is a wealth of knowledge out there to tap into. Thus my coming out of the closet here, to learn!
:thank_you2:
This is a place of learning, but it is also pretty intolerant of BS.
You have a great attitude, keep it up and you'll absorb a lot of knowledge.
Read the sticky threads at the top of the technical sub-forums.
Read and understand them and you will have a wider base of knowledge than 90% of the members on this board.
The orange search button on the top righthand corner of the screen is a very valuable tool.
Use it often.
Castle nut now staked on the HBar, need to either remove the castle nut on the Varminator and cut a notch in it, or just break down and get a proper castle nut for that one. On the list to do this week. :)
SeriousStudent
06-23-13, 22:39
This is a place of learning, but it is also pretty intolerant of BS.
You have a great attitude, keep it up and you'll absorb a lot of knowledge.
Read the sticky threads at the top of the technical sub-forums.
Read and understand them and you will have a wider base of knowledge than 90% of the members on this board.
The orange search button on the top righthand corner of the screen is a very valuable tool.
Use it often.
Sticky, this man gives you very good advice.
When you have an opportunity, peruse the training forums. You will find some links there to some very sharp trainers. You'll learn a lot more from a good weekend training class with your carbine, than you could reading for weeks. But I'm not telling you to ignore research.
And welcome, it's a lot of fun if you do it right. ;)
Welcome to the forums. Wow, you cut your own lowers from scratch? Impressive! I also like the engraving. My father was a jarhead.
One thing I'd like to pass along-
Case hardening on AR triggers can be very thin. As such, it's generally a bad idea to polish the sear surfaces. Sometimes, the case hardening is thick enough to take it, sometimes it's not. It's very possible your triggers will quickly wear to the point they'll start doubling. You might want to start looking for a replacement before that happens. A real good economical trigger is the ALG. Not as crisp as it's more expensive Geisselle brothers but it's worth the $45 or they cost. Install it with a generous coating of grease on the sears and the bottom curve of the hammer and I'm sure it will surprise you
Thanks for the advice on both counts! I know about the case hardening on the trigger group and all I do is to polish them lightly to smooth them out a little. I don't take a stone or anything too harsh to em. I know I should just bite the bullet and save for a Geisselle.. lol
I will also look into the training forums and what may be available near enough to me. I do have local gunsmith and very proficient with the AR platform that is going to offer up some classes soon and I will surely partake in them as well.
Got a few upgrades to play with this week, BCM sent me some heavier buffers, an H for my HBar build and an H2 for my pistol build and also some extractor spring upgrade kits for all 3 builds... :)
themissinglink
06-26-13, 21:32
Welcome, I too am new here.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00575800x495_zps24f63074.jpg Is that a relief groove for tapping the hole for bolt release?
^looks to be for the roll pin.
^looks to be for the roll pin.I have heard that some people elect to tap that hole vs drill/ream there on home builds. Was wondering on his take and techniques for tooln that cut. If you notice the side of his lower looks a little differ than most, and that pocket just looks like it was put there on purpose. Who knows he might like putting in extra features to spice it up a little ya kno. But ya your right A pin is going there. Just what type, using what tool is my question.
Is that a relief groove for tapping the hole for bolt release?
No, it's actually a relief to allow you to remove the roll pin backwards without damaging the lower. You need to shave a punch off to do it the normal way, this eliminates that.. ;)
About to run some 308 lowers and they will have tapped bolt catch pin holes instead of a roll pin.
No, it's actually a relief to allow you to remove the roll pin backwards without damaging the lower. You need to shave a punch off to do it the normal way, this eliminates that.. ;)
About to run some 308 lowers and they will have tapped bolt catch pin holes instead of a roll pin.Ahhh, way to think ahead, Thanks! What CAD/CAM are u runnin for lowers?
Ahhh, way to think ahead, Thanks! What CAD/CAM are u runnin for lowers?
We run Mastercam for everything... works well!
I have heard that some people elect to tap that hole vs drill/ream there on home builds. Was wondering on his take and techniques for tooln that cut. If you notice the side of his lower looks a little differ than most, and that pocket just looks like it was put there on purpose. Who knows he might like putting in extra features to spice it up a little ya kno. But ya your right A pin is going there. Just what type, using what tool is my question.
I have done a bunch of lowers using the standard roll pin and with a couple of critical tools, it is a snap. To remove that pin however, is a bit of a challenge, as you have to drive it out opposite of how it went in and on most lowers that pin hole is virtually flush with the side of the lower receiver, requiring a special punch. If you try to drive it out from the rear, you will drive it against the lower on most forged lowers before it comes out, so... instead of making a special threaded pin and tapping that hole, on the AR-15 lowers we just relieve that area behind the pin to allow you to drive it out from the rear and not damage the lower or nick/scratch up the coating....
On the AR-10 lowers that we are going to do we will tap the lug of that pin receiver and use a specially made pin to make it easy to remove and install it, but it adds cost.... it's all in the math... lol
Cool thanks for info. Stuck with featurecam and Gibbscam, their not too bad, but some work-piece features need more attention than others. Today as matter of fact featurecam tried to sneek an extra tool change in on me. For same tool..
LMAO I hate when the do that!!
Honestly, I am learning more old school, Bridgeport, Hardinge Chucker, Romanian Lathe. My buddy is the CNC master and I have learned a lot from him, but I am a novice when it comes to CNC. Still have a long way to go there, but I am also an engineer, so it's really cool to be able to take an idea, concept, turn it into a working model in CAD, then transfer it to CNC and create the GCode, let my buddy do his tweaks and run the part (or, if it's a one or three of, do em old school by hand in my shop). From concept to reality in a few easy steps.. :dance3:
Welcome to the forums. Wow, you cut your own lowers from scratch? Impressive! I also like the engraving. My father was a jarhead.
One thing I'd like to pass along-
Case hardening on AR triggers can be very thin. As such, it's generally a bad idea to polish the sear surfaces. Sometimes, the case hardening is thick enough to take it, sometimes it's not. It's very possible your triggers will quickly wear to the point they'll start doubling. You might want to start looking for a replacement before that happens. A real good economical trigger is the ALG. Not as crisp as it's more expensive Geisselle brothers but it's worth the $45 or they cost. Install it with a generous coating of grease on the sears and the bottom curve of the hammer and I'm sure it will surprise you
Well, took the advice and put an ALG ACT trigger group on order... we'll see how it compares to my mod'd mil-spec trigger, which is still working well.. :smile:
LMAO I hate when the do that!!
Honestly, I am learning more old school, Bridgeport, Hardinge Chucker, Romanian Lathe. My buddy is the CNC master and I have learned a lot from him, but I am a novice when it comes to CNC. Still have a long way to go there, but I am also an engineer, so it's really cool to be able to take an idea, concept, turn it into a working model in CAD, then transfer it to CNC and create the GCode, let my buddy do his tweaks and run the part (or, if it's a one or three of, do em old school by hand in my shop). From concept to reality in a few easy steps.. :dance3:I'm in the same boat, I can rock and roll with the best of them on manual. CNC not so much, I'm back in school learning now, but nothing kicks ass like ol school style. I just wish I had the time to do manual, CNC'in will spoil you with time.
I'm in the same boat, I can rock and roll with the best of them on manual. CNC not so much, I'm back in school learning now, but nothing kicks ass like ol school style. I just wish I had the time to do manual, CNC'in will spoil you with time.
Agreed, though I am still learning the programming side, so I can probably crank out a part or 6 by hand faster than CNC, due to the length of time it takes me to write/tweak the code.. lol
I need to get schooled on CNC programming, but I have too little time now. It'll be like I learned CAD.. on my own with a little coaching at times..
CNC has many advantages over manual and it can sure turn out some nice lookin parts, but in a pinch, or for one-ofs, I resort to the old hand made way most of the time. Just got another request for some parts, gonna spend some time on the Chucker this afternoon honing my threading and turning skills a bit more.. ;)
Agreed, though I am still learning the programming side, so I can probably crank out a part or 6 by hand faster than CNC, due to the length of time it takes me to write/tweak the code.. lol
I need to get schooled on CNC programming, but I have too little time now. It'll be like I learned CAD.. on my own with a little coaching at times..
CNC has many advantages over manual and it can sure turn out some nice lookin parts, but in a pinch, or for one-ofs, I resort to the old hand made way most of the time. Just got another request for some parts, gonna spend some time on the Chucker this afternoon honing my threading and turning skills a bit more.. ;)If your looking for a projects to hone on :smile: http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCTurnersCube.html<you can do this by hand http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/orion-puzzle-plan.html
http://homews.co.uk/page463.html
free CAD/CAM and simulators software http://www.freebyte.com/cad/cadcam.htm
Cool, thanks! I'll check out the links for sure!
Well, took the advice and put an ALG ACT trigger group on order... we'll see how it compares to my mod'd mil-spec trigger, which is still working well.. :smile:
Okay, I am impressed with the ACT trigger.. very smooth and with a couple tweaks, it's darned near as good as the trigger on my Varminator. Installed it tonight on my HBar and have only dry tested it, but I look forward to spending some range time with it here in a week or so. :dance3:
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.