View Full Version : Getting into precision bolt guns; looking for a starter.
Mauser KAR98K
06-26-13, 21:44
Hopefully I can get some good feedback here. Looking to venture into bolt guns this go around, and I am wanting a .300 Win Mag that I can have the barrel threaded, or is threaded. My goal for this rifle is to hunt targets out to 1K yards or more, able to upgrade as I go up to and including a barrel. I have some .308, 30.06 and .223 rifles that I can use for hunting at the 300 yard mark or further, so this is just something new and different for me.
Would like to spend no more than $700
I have been eying on the Remington SPS, but I have not found one that I could thread later down the road (barrel change if possible, but that would be about a year or more after getting the rifle.
Last, any key differences between the .308 and the .300 Win Mag besides size and power factor. Am I gaining anything by going big, or should I stick to a .308 as it is something I know, or try something new and gain more in knowledge via experience.
Please do not recommend me anything over my base line budget. I have to take into account of a new scope and scope base and a $1,000+ rifle will crush me from here until late winter. It also takes the fun out of working my way up.
That Remmy is your gun. Then upgrade the stock and trigger when you can. That barrel can be threaded by a gunsmith.
Gotta have 300WM for hunting to 1K. 308 gets there but not a hunting round at that range. 300 WM is a huge upgrade.
You could take a look at Howa, they have been known to be good shooters and if I remember correctly its a cheap upgrade to get a detachable magazine on it.
I recently got more into long distance shooting. One of the things no one mentions is that a nice gun and scope is just the beginning of your spending. If you really want to go to 1K, a good rangefinder and spotting scope are going to be really important. Some sort of ballistic calculator, wind/temp/humidity/altitude gauge, bags, bipod, mat, etc. are all going to be very nice to have if you want to be successful.
Reloading equipment will come into play at some point too.
Just something to consider as you start this journey.
There are guys throwing 208g AMAX down range from longer barreled 308's that, in theory(the ballistics numbers), should still have enough energy to take down a deer at 1000 yards. I think the guys were talking still having 1000 ft. lbs. at 1000 yards which TO ME is about bare minimum, if not a little under, for a clean kill on a deer.
If I am stepping to a magnum cartridge AND if I was a reloader AND I wanted a SOLID 1000 yard capability for kill shots I would be looking hard at 338 Lapua.
You want to be able to HUNT 1k an beyond on a budget? OK!
Even if you get an SPS for $600, get a stock for $350, skim bed for $65 +/-, and thread the barrel for $65... you're sitting at $1080 right there.. :confused:
Mauser KAR98K
06-27-13, 11:58
This is going to be a slow steady work up for me. My skills are nowhere near the mark I need to be to start ringing out steel at a 1K. It would be like me taking an Formula 1 car out on the track for the first time after racing a Mini for a few months.
This is just the start.
I have thought of .338 Lapua, but I also know how much the ammo costs at my local LGS. Plus, during the panic, and the Great Ammo Drought, .300WSM was still on the shelves.
I already have a good reloading setup. :smile:
For right now, I am just looking for a rifle, shoot it at a 100-400 yards or more and work my skills up, and get used to the recoil.
An AI chassis will be in the future.
For 100-400 a .223 is more than adequate. .308 will get you hits fairly easily out to 1000 when you get your experience doing so.
.300 WM is a more forgiving 1000 yard gun. Get a brake on it.
The thing about going with an SPS is that you'll end up spending as much as buying a 5R when you go get a decent stock and the other stuff I mentioned.
The only upside is you can break up the purchases over several weeks/months.
did you mean to put 300 win mag and not 300 win short mag? Different rounds.
So are you looking to hit steel at 1000 or are you looking to make kill shots on game at 1000 yards? Your first post indicated hunting at 1000, your last post indicated "ringing steel" at 1000 yards. TWO very different games.
If target shooting is the game at 1000 there are tons of calibers that get you there including 308, 6mm, 6.5mm and plenty of others. I dont know anything about hunting at distance with 6mm or 6.5mm, but there are a TON of guys poking holes in paper and dinging steel at 1000+ yards with those rounds.
If you havent shot a 300 win mag I would suggest you do. Its not fun IMO. Think of a 308 with double the recoil since 300 win mag uses almost double the powder of 308 with the same bullet.
If you havent shot a 300 win mag I would suggest you do. Its not fun IMO. Think of a 308 with double the recoil since 300 win mag uses almost double the powder of 308 with the same bullet.
What the heck? :confused:
We shoot 300 WM every weekend. I suppose a sporter barreled rifle with not brake would suck to shoot. But a simple AAC brake makes the rifle very shootable.
What the heck? :confused:
We shoot 300 WM every weekend. I suppose a sporter barreled rifle with not brake would suck to shoot. But a simple AAC brake makes the rifle very shootable.
I dont think they are bad, not saying they are terrible, but compared to a 308 its got a good bit more recoil. Compared to .223 its got a TON more recoil.
I dont think they are bad, not saying they are terrible, but compared to a 308 its got a good bit more recoil. Compared to .223 its got a TON more recoil.
With a brake it's go less recoil than a .308 that's got no brake.
If I am stepping to a magnum cartridge AND if I was a reloader AND I wanted a SOLID 1000 yard capability for kill shots I would be looking hard at 338 Lapua.
Bang.
You wont be satisfied with the .300WM for long once you get down behind a .338 Lapua. 1K yards becomes 1.2K which becomes 1.4K
If you are strictly punching paper to 1K look into a .260/6.5 caliber.
Bang.
You wont be satisfied with the .300WM for long once you get down behind a .338 Lapua. 1K yards becomes 1.2K which becomes 1.4K
If you are strictly punching paper to 1K look into a .260/6.5 caliber.
I agree with the 6.5mm bullet options being extremely enticing for reloaders (making .260 Rem really attractive), but the biggest appeal of that is if most of the hunting is up at closer range, but paper and steel out to longer range, then it does both of those really well for a lot less cash. While the 6.5CM/.260Rem are great 300WM ballistic analogs at range, with a decent hunting load they're still really solid out to half a click.
As for the .338LM argument, I can't help but think of the demotivational poster where it basically says 'I thought my rifle was chambered in 338 Lapua Magnum, turns out it runs on $5 bills'. If I stay in NM, and finish my doctorate, I'll buy one. Until then, it's a bit like owning a top fuel funny car, and only driving it on the street when I see folks around here taking it to a 300yd range, and shooting the better part of a box before their shoulders start aching.
For the OP, if you've already got a reasonably accurate rifle in .308, and you're looking at a budget down the road for a can, stamp, and reloading setup, then .300WM sounds like the real winner there if you plan on taking game at 800m or so. As far as bang for the buck, WM stands right at that precipice where the bigger rounds have truly awesome capability, but which comes at increasingly silly prices.
My goal for this rifle is to hunt targets out to 1K yards or more
As for the .338LM argument, I can't help but think of the demotivational poster where it basically says 'I thought my rifle was chambered in 338 Lapua Magnum, turns out it runs on $5 bills'. If I stay in NM, and finish my doctorate, I'll buy one. Until then, it's a bit like owning a top fuel funny car, and only driving it on the street when I see folks around here taking it to a 300yd range, and shooting the better part of a box before their shoulders start aching.
Come on? Anyone taking a .338LM to the 300 yard line to shoot the better part of a box isnt a serious shooter or made a poor choice in caliber selection. You have a great point, the price of factory rounds is insane. My suggestion to the OP was based on the fact that he already has a 30-06 and a more importantly a budget, I wouldnt waste it on the same bullet weight only to get 200-300 more FPS.
just starting out, I would go with a 308 or 30-06, yes a 30-06. for a 308, I would look into the Remington 700 AAC-SD or a Savage 10FCP in whatever flavor you want. I currently have a savage 10fcp-sr.
the extra recoil will cause a flinch unless you are legitimately use to the recoil. it also has a much shorter barrel life, like 2-3K rounds for most precision shooters. 308, or 30-06 will not burn the barrel as fast and will last 3-4x as long.
now as far as the 30-06, it was described to me as doing 90% of what the 300WM will do without the extra blast, recoil and short barrel life associated with the magnum. I know a few guys can hit past 1200 yards with a 308 and have heard of a few mile shots with the old '06. that will take some skill and custom handloads as well as some luck but it can be done.
my next build will be a custom built Remington 700 with a heavy barrel and nice stock. throw in a 6-24x viper pst scope and just shoot.
another plus for the savage: you can swap barrels and do a lot of work yourself to the rifle saving some cash. for your 700 budget, I would look for a long action savage 110 or a stevens - like the maverick of the Mossberg line. buy a barrel online with a headspace guage and barrel nut wrench. might have enough left for a better stock.
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