View Full Version : AAC flash hider w/o torque wrench?
I'm putting on an AAC blackout FH and can't find their "tool" anywhere for sale. Does anyone know the degrees of rotation that will be equivalent to the proper ft/lb specifications (45-55 I believe) if I were using an open end wrench?
Further, do any of you armorers out there know how accurate that would be? Will "X"-degrees of rotation always equal a certain ft/lb of torque? Would it vary by rifle?
Put a wrench on it and tighten it down till it stops. Then give it another 1/4 turn. Should be good to go give or take. Just be sure to use rocksett.
deadly0311
06-27-13, 19:43
Come see me tomorrow at Hoover Tactical. We have the tool to do it as well as for sale. Either or.
Suwannee Tim
06-27-13, 20:01
I didn't even know they made such a thing. I'm going to order one but I have been just screwing them on with a Crescent wrench. I'm sure the special tool works better but a Crescent wrench works.
Come see me tomorrow at Hoover Tactical. We have the tool to do it as well as for sale. Either or.
Awesome - who do I ask for?
deadly0311
06-27-13, 20:41
Just ask for me (Austin)
davidjinks
06-28-13, 06:48
There's seriously a special tool for their FHs? What does it do special that a wrench can't?
I didn't even know they made such a thing. I'm going to order one but I have been just screwing them on with a Crescent wrench. I'm sure the special tool works better but a Crescent wrench works.
Robb Jensen
06-28-13, 06:55
There's seriously a special tool for their FHs? What does it do special that a wrench can't?
AAC makes a tool for the Blackout and Brakeout which grabs them by the tines. Or you can use a 22mm wrench.
Robb Jensen
06-28-13, 07:33
45-55# ?!?!
Torque spec? AAC says 20-30ft lbs.
Since when is installing a mount equal in complexity to splitting an atom? :shout:
Torque spec? AAC says 20-30ft lbs.
So does Surefire. OP posted 45-55#.
Since when is installing a mount equal in complexity to splitting an atom? :shout:
I don't know that my question would put me on par with figuring out how to split an atom, but whatever. Since I am going to mount a suppressor on this FH, I don't want it coming loose while I'm shooting and jack up my suppressor.
AAC is very specific about the required torque for each of their mounts (ranging from 20# to 100# for the 3/4x24). I have no idea why it would be that specific, but I would imagine they have good reason.
Torque spec? AAC says 20-30ft lbs.
The instruction card that came with it states 45-55# for the 5/8x24.
davidjinks
06-28-13, 08:46
Okay, cool. I did not know that. In your opinion, is it better to use that specific tool or just a regular 22mm wrench?
AAC makes a tool for the Blackout and Brakeout which grabs them by the tines. Or you can use a 22mm wrench.
deadly0311
06-28-13, 09:01
The blackouts that I have seen done by customers of ours with a crescent wrench have had the flats rounded off. When that happens all beta are off and the tool comes in handy.
I don't know that my question would put me on par with figuring out how to split an atom, but whatever. Since I am going to mount a suppressor on this FH, I don't want it coming loose while I'm shooting and jack up my suppressor.
AAC is very specific about the required torque for each of their mounts (ranging from 20# to 100# for the 3/4x24). I have no idea why it would be that specific, but I would imagine they have good reason.
Shit... I've installed a ton of those mounts. Get the shim that leaves you 1/8 turn from TDC when hand tightened as tight as you can get it..... back it off... 2 drops of rockset, put it on, and tighten it.
Common sense tight and two drops of rockset, and it'll never come loose. ;)
Every so often you get in that NO SHIM COMBO WORKS mode. :p
It seems like either you nail it in your first couple of tries, or you're there for a week trying to get that sucker right. :p
This right here.
Back in college, 50% of the time I was driving, I was drunk. Not proud of it, but it is what it is. Did I get from point A to point B? Yep. Was it the smartest way to get to where I was going? No way.
I have no doubt that the method described has worked flawlessly for you and others, and I've got no issue with your approach. I would just prefer to torque it appropriately since it isn't that much more difficult.
If we can get a degree measurement of rotation today when we tighten it to spec, I will share it in case anyone is curious.
Maybe this thread belongs in the technical section.
If we can get a degree measurement of rotation today when we tighten it to spec, I will share it in case anyone is curious.
That's going to be unique to each barrel/mount combo. It should be interesting anyway... but my point is that it won't necessarily translate to all mount installs.
That's going to be unique to each barrel/mount combo. It should be interesting anyway... but my point is that it won't necessarily translate to all mount installs.
I was thinking the same thing...
davidjinks
06-28-13, 10:52
Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the blackout FH don't require any timing...
Shit... I've installed a ton of those mounts. Get the shim that leaves you 1/8 turn from TDC when hand tightened as tight as you can get it..... back it off... 2 drops of rockset, put it on, and tighten it.
Common sense tight and two drops of rockset, and it'll never come loose. ;)
Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the blackout FH don't require any timing...
They don't, but some people like one of the prongs to be centered at the twelve o'clock position.
Robb Jensen
06-28-13, 13:45
Okay, cool. I did not know that. In your opinion, is it better to use that specific tool or just a regular 22mm wrench?
Using the AAC Blackout wrench won't bend the newer thin walled Blackouts at the wrench flats like a 22mm wrench will.
From hand tight to 50# was roughly 45 degrees - maybe a little less. No shims. It would have been tough to hit 1/4 turn without something breaking.
Big thanks to Austin at Hoover Tactical for the help.
From hand tight to 50# was roughly 45 degrees - maybe a little less. No shims. It would have been tough to hit 1/4 turn without something breaking.
Big thanks to Austin at Hoover Tactical for the help.
45# is way too tight and it is very possible that accuracy will be poor due to muzzle constriction. 30# should be the absolute max, with 20-25# being the sweet spot.
How are you coming up with your numbers?
the_1iviper
06-28-13, 19:02
45# is way too tight and it is very possible that accuracy will be poor due to muzzle constriction. 30# should be the absolute max, with 20-25# being the sweet spot.
/\ this is some good info. i try to stay as close to 20lbs myself but always seem to give it that 1 extra umph to make sure :smile:
How are you coming up with your numbers?
Sorry, you said 50#.
Both surefire and aac say 20-30#, and Wes at MSTN recommends 20-25 at the most, stating that muzzle constriction can begin at past 25#
Well someone needs to call AAC and tell them their packaging is incorrect. Instructions on the package had my FH being torqued to 45-55#. One of them went up to 100#.
Well someone needs to call AAC and tell them their packaging is incorrect. Instructions on the package had my FH being torqued to 45-55#. One of them went up to 100#.
Maybe this is why Wes kept getting poor accuracy from them compared to others. That kind of torque on a muzzle device is not warranted, or a good thing.
I would love to know how they come up with their torque specs. They really are all over the place for each different kind of Blackout mount.
lifebreath
06-28-13, 22:01
Anything over 30# risks deforming the muzzle enough to adversely effect accuracy. 20-30# is right. If you intend to mount a suppresser add some rockset. 50# or more will likely deform the muzzle by at least a half 1000th or more. It stretches the steel lengthwise. Watch the surefire video http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=dWzs9JA4U4w&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DdWzs9JA4U4w
AAC makes a tool for the Blackout and Brakeout which grabs them by the tines. Or you can use a 22mm wrench.
I would imagine a wrench being a lot cheaper and easier to manufacture. Only time I can see using something like that is for SBRs where you don't have the room between the wrench flats and the handguard.
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