View Full Version : Fireclean with AR15
jaybirdritenour2
07-03-13, 23:08
Does anyone use Fireclean on their AR's? Does it work well? Does it really clean the carbon off or is there still need for a solvent? From what is said it is supposed to be good on a suppressed weapon. Just looking for some real world use.
When the weapon gets really hot does it stay on or burn off like some lubes?
Failure2Stop
07-03-13, 23:36
I have been very happy with it.
Does not replace cleaning, but does an excellent job of sticking around and preventing carbon accumulation.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
Heavy Metal
07-04-13, 00:42
Seldom does a product exceed its hype but Fireclean has to be used to be believed. It is amazing stuff.
I have a bottle but I haven't used it yet. I've heard it does amazing things and has converted many froglube users.
I used it to free up my switchblock once.
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 06:16
I have been very happy with it.
Does not replace cleaning, but does an excellent job of sticking around and preventing carbon accumulation.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
what do you use to clean? It works good with the fireclean?
Robb Jensen
07-04-13, 07:52
It works very well. It makes "cleaning" an AR very simple. I just wipe out the upper and lower receiver with a paper towel and use q-tips in the tighter areas. I generally use a boresnake though the barrel. But twice a year or so I do use Wipe-Out Patch-Out and their Accelerator to remove copper in the bore. Fireclean works amazing well on suppressed guns and is the slowest to burn off of any oil I've ever used. It also will make an AR charging handle and BCG move much more smoothly it will feel and sound smoother simply working the action. It also makes cleaning my FN SLP shotgun super easy. Normally with other gun lubes on the pistons of the SLP carbon builds up on the inside and outside of the piston which is almost impossible to remove. After using Fireclean for the last 1K rounds that carbon wiped off with a paper towel.
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 08:41
Great. I ordered some to try. Thanks everyone.
I love the stuff. I use it on all of my firearms. Cleaning is a breeze and it has great lubrication qualities.
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 09:40
But twice a year or so I do use Wipe-Out Patch-Out and their Accelerator to remove copper in the bore.
Where do you get their Accelerator??
jerrysimons
07-04-13, 10:08
So Fireclean is used in place of your previous lube, say Slip2000 Ewl, and that is it? Wipe down and reapply? Almost sounds too good to be true.
Razorhunter
07-04-13, 13:47
I'm interested in hearing what you guys use to clean your bcg's with? I'm talking about solvents, when you are really scrubbing and cleaning the hell out of the bcg. Are most of you just bypassing the solvent, and using FireClean (or whatever lube you use), or are you using some type of solvent on the bcg???
I've always wondered what cleaning agent/solvent dissolves heavy caked on carbon from the bcg the best??? Anyone found something that actually works well?
I have been a believer of product for the past year. this stuff is literally black magic. the advantage over the green colored lube is tremendous. It creates little to no gunk up after prolong shooting. Properly coated, the gun is also much easier to clean after.
I recently completed a 1911 Operator class by Larry Vickers, affectionately call the Glock Appreciation class. While I am mostly a S&W M&P9 fan, I pull out my good ole Springfield TRP(no rail) and started practicing. I lubed this old beast prior and it lasted all the way until the end of the class. while at the second day we took apart the gun and all the gunk and carbon were easily removed. The build up included one 300 rounds range session, two IDPA matches(8 stages each) at about 250 rounds and about 600 rounds during the 1911 class. so you are looking at a 1911 that shot approximately 1100 rounds before it was thoroughly cleaned. during the take down process, the frame and slide although dirty and full of gunk, it still maintained some viscosity. The important thing was I did NOT have one single failure the entire time.
I can continue about my story on my 5000 rounds experience with my Centurion Arms M4, but you get the idea......
Seems like I heard all the same positive comments, in the past, about Froglube. Is there much difference?
I've always wondered what cleaning agent/solvent dissolves heavy caked on carbon from the bcg the best??? Anyone found something that actually works well?
While I have not tried FireClean, I have not personally used or heard of something that chemically removes the carbon from the bolt tail (the most challenging spot). Good old fashioned elbow grease is ultimately what will be necessary to one degree or another. Some solvents may make it easier but it'll still require some form of mechanical scrubbing/scraping to get perfectly clean. Hell, even my ultrasonic won't get it all off but does make it easier to remove once out of it.
There are many here that will tell you that it is not necessary to clean the bolt tail......to each his own. That is why I refuse to buy a used AR from anyone, as that bolt tail blow-off is usually reflective of the overall maintenance of their weapon. "Hey, my XXX ran 100K rounds without cleaning, just squirting in some oil". Whatever. You can run a car 30,000 miles without changing oil, but why would you? Your $$$, your investment. I like mine spotless between outings.
As always, YMMV.
BTW, let me know when there is a chemical that "dissolves" that baked-on bolt tail carbon!
been using fireclean about 3-4 mo ago, as i just did not feel frog lube to be slick enough, and got tired of having to heat parts for treatment w fg. i find it convenient that fireclean can be used as a cleaner first then a lube. so far so good, but will not say its magic, as i got cought up in the fg craze :lol:
yes it takes some effort and a brass brush to clean the bolt tail, but its no big deal.
Heavy Metal
07-04-13, 16:16
I'm interested in hearing what you guys use to clean your bcg's with? I'm talking about solvents, when you are really scrubbing and cleaning the hell out of the bcg. Are most of you just bypassing the solvent, and using FireClean (or whatever lube you use), or are you using some type of solvent on the bcg???
I've always wondered what cleaning agent/solvent dissolves heavy caked on carbon from the bcg the best??? Anyone found something that actually works well?
You don't need a solvent, you don't need a brush. "Wax off, wax on."
I've been using it for about two years now and can say it makes clean up a lot easier and is a great lubricant as well.
Heavy Metal
07-04-13, 16:19
While I have not tried FireClean, I have not personally used or heard of something that chemically removes the carbon from the bolt tail (the most challenging spot).
I am telling you, you have heard of it now.
Good old fashioned elbow grease is ultimately what will be necessary to one degree or another. Some solvents may make it easier but it'll still require some form of mechanical scrubbing/scraping to get perfectly clean. Hell, even my ultrasonic won't get it all off but does make it easier to remove once out of it.
Elbow grease and scrubbing are now officially obselete. Trying is believing. The bolt tail WIPES clean with a dry rag.
I wiped a BCG clean to the bare metal in about 5 minutes while talking to a buddy showing him how easy this shit was to use.
Robb Jensen
07-04-13, 16:41
Where do you get their Accelerator??
Brownells
Heavy Metal
07-04-13, 17:12
I have been a believer of product for the past year. this stuff is literally black magic. the advantage over the green colored lube is tremendous. It creates little to no gunk up after prolong shooting. Properly coated, the gun is also much easier to clean after.
I recently completed a 1911 Operator class by Larry Vickers, affectionately call the Glock Appreciation class. While I am mostly a S&W M&P9 fan, I pull out my good ole Springfield TRP(no rail) and started practicing. I lubed this old beast prior and it lasted all the way until the end of the class. while at the second day we took apart the gun and all the gunk and carbon were easily removed. The build up included one 300 rounds range session, two IDPA matches(8 stages each) at about 250 rounds and about 600 rounds during the 1911 class. so you are looking at a 1911 that shot approximately 1100 rounds before it was thoroughly cleaned. during the take down process, the frame and slide although dirty and full of gunk, it still maintained some viscosity. The important thing was I did NOT have one single failure the entire time.
I can continue about my story on my 5000 rounds experience with my Centurion Arms M4, but you get the idea......
If you really want the acid test SGM Lee, try it on a .22 and see how long you can get it to run! This stuff is pure win in a bottle for Rimfires too!
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 17:23
Where do you get their Accelerator??
Can you link me??
Robb Jensen
07-04-13, 18:37
Can you link me??
http://mobile.brownells.com/mobile/aspx/search/product.aspx?pid=24848
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 18:43
http://mobile.brownells.com/mobile/aspx/search/product.aspx?pid=24848
Oh, ok I thought you meant it was a FireClean product. Thanks.
GreenGoose
07-04-13, 18:48
Oh, ok I thought you meant it was a FireClean product. Thanks.
FireClean:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/FRCFC-2.aspx
jaybirdritenour2
07-04-13, 18:54
FireClean:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/FRCFC-2.aspx
I already ordered FireClean. I thought he meant there was a FireClean Accelerator. Just a misunderstanding. Thanks though.
I am telling you, you have heard of it now.
Elbow grease and scrubbing are now officially obselete. Trying is believing. The bolt tail WIPES clean with a dry rag.
I wiped a BCG clean to the bare metal in about 5 minutes while talking to a buddy showing him how easy this shit was to use.
You've got me curious. May have to give some FireClean a whirl.
sinlessorrow
07-05-13, 01:07
So for those that have used it, can it be applied after a lubrication like Slip2000 has been used? Or will I have to fully degrease everything first?
Robb Jensen
07-05-13, 06:25
So for those that have used it, can it be applied after a lubrication like Slip2000 has been used? Or will I have to fully degrease everything first?
Before using Fireclean all parts of the gun should be degreased of all other brand gun oils & cleaners. Use Fireclean full strength.
As I look at my shelf with all the magic cleaners and lubes, I see......Break free, Tetra, Militec, all the various Hoppes products, Frog lube, and SLIP 2000. All claim to be the best. And now Fireclean. Good grief, what will be next. :confused:
No thoughts on it's performance compared with Froglube? Anyone?
No thoughts on it's performance compared with Froglube? Anyone?
I have been a believer of product for the past year. this stuff is literally black magic. the advantage over the green colored lube is tremendous. It creates little to no gunk up after prolong shooting. Properly coated, the gun is also much easier to clean after.
I would assume the "green colored lube" is in reference to Froglube.
Many in my area have switched from Froglube to Fireclean. I applied it to my SR15 and Colt 6920, hopefully if the temp doesn't break 110 degrees tomorrow i'll get a chance to run it and see how it works..
sinlessorrow
07-05-13, 11:06
Before using Fireclean all parts of the gun should be degreased of all other brand gun oils & cleaners. Use Fireclean full strength.
Thanks Robb, I guess I'll just hose the rifle down with some brake cleaner. Got the 2 pack of fireclean on the way so well see how it performs.
Never used brake cleaner on my rifle before, is the non chlorinated safe if it comes into contact with my rail panels/grips/light switches?
I would assume the "green colored lube" is in reference to Froglube.
Many in my area have switched from Froglube to Fireclean. I applied it to my SR15 and Colt 6920, hopefully if the temp doesn't break 110 degrees tomorrow i'll get a chance to run it and see how it works..
this is a little test we did awhile back for shiz and giggles....
So this is a NON-scientific test, so please do NOT burn me on the technicalities....LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScdsWvFzsGc
this is a little test we did awhile back for shiz and giggles....
So this is a NON-scientific test, so please do NOT burn me on the technicalities....LOL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScdsWvFzsGc
Great test and thanks for doing this. Did you switch around the lube positions on the Can yet?
I have Frog Lube but it is a pain to use with having to heat the metal so I have gone back to using Hoppes to clean and Mobil 1 to oil and some TW25b on the rials/sliding parts.
thoughts????
Great test and thanks for doing this. Did you switch around the lube positions on the Can yet?
I have Frog Lube but it is a pain to use with having to heat the metal so I have gone back to using Hoppes to clean and Mobil 1 to oil and some TW25b on the rials/sliding parts.
thoughts????
Haven't had the chance to go back on the range to do an updated test, but it is scheduled and will be updated soon.
As far as the fireclean, it doesn't require heating up, you just simply apply and go. I loved mobile one, but motor oil's one Achilles heel is that the design of the oil is for an enclosed environment so the motor oil has a tendency to run and does not stay on the places where the lube is required. where as the Fireclean, you can apply the lube and it will stay where it is need it. I have coated a bolt carrier group and stand it on its end on a piece paper to see how much of that fireclean ran off the surface and on to the paper....to my surprise, almost none of the fireclean was visible on the paper after a over night test.
I've been using mobile 1, didn't jump on the band wagon for frog lube. I have a two pack of fireclean on the way. Mr. Lee's burn off test influenced the decision.
Heavy Metal
07-05-13, 12:29
Something else, I only put it on the inside of my BCG. I still run Weapons Shield on the outside and the lower temp areas.
It still works fine even though that is not the recommended procedure.
Great test and thanks for doing this. Did you switch around the lube positions on the Can yet?
I have Frog Lube but it is a pain to use with having to heat the metal so I have gone back to using Hoppes to clean and Mobil 1 to oil and some TW25b on the rials/sliding parts.
thoughts????
I also have similar concerns regarding Frog Lube. Honestly I love the stuff compared to synthetic motor oil mainly due to its dual nature of cleaner/lube. It does funtion very well in that role. I agree that application can be laborious as well.
My biggest gripe with Frog Lube and a product like Fireclean is the requirement for exclusive application. As much as I like Frog Lube, is it worth losing ability to use another shooter's tube of Mobil 1 if I was to run out or lose my supply? I doubt the world would end at that particular moment but you know what I mean...
Heavy Metal
07-05-13, 13:51
Read my post above yours.
I also have similar concerns regarding Frog Lube. Honestly I love the stuff compared to synthetic motor oil mainly due to its dual nature of cleaner/lube. It does funtion very well in that role. I agree that application can be laborious as well.
My biggest gripe with Frog Lube and a product like Fireclean is the requirement for exclusive application. As much as I like Frog Lube, is it worth losing ability to use another shooter's tube of Mobil 1 if I was to run out or lose my supply? I doubt the world would end at that particular moment but you know what I mean...
This was also my main concern with alternate lubrication products such as Frog Lube and Fire Clean. They must be used at the exclusion of most every other mainstream lubrication product. On the other hand, rhetorically speaking, in all practicality, how detrimental is that to most of us?
Read my post above yours.
I'm not familiar enough with Fireclean to form an opinion, but if it is anything like Frog Lube straying from application procedure could risk causing problems.
"FrogLube™ will penetrate and eventually dissolve corrosive petrochemical present on the weapon...it works as both a cleaner and degreaser that does not leave a residue.
NOTE: You should eliminate the use of petrochemical‐based cleaners and lubricants of opposing chemistry since they offset the benefits of a FrogLube™-treated weapon."
You can just toss FIREClean on -- it will break up carbon and lube the weapon.
However carbon adheres to carbon, so totally cleaning the gun first and applying it on a clean prep surface will work best.
I'm a TOTAL convert to FIREClean.
PERIOD
For suppressed guns, it is the BEST lube I have seen, heck from .22LR pistol to .50BMG M-2HB's it kills the competition. My first hint this was a breakthru was a 950rd 1 hour session with a LE entity using a 11.5" SR-16, and the Flash Hider was still moist with the FIREClean after the range session.
Also on a precision gun standpoint it seems to reduce bore fouling and copper build up to next to nil.
I'm a pretty lazy guy, and this reduces both the cleanings I give and the cleaning time needed.
I don't usually go head of heels for products - but I am here.
You can just toss FIREClean on -- it will break up carbon and lube the weapon.
However carbon adheres to carbon, so totally cleaning the gun first and applying it on a clean prep surface will work best.
I'm a TOTAL convert to FIREClean.
PERIOD
For suppressed guns, it is the BEST lube I have seen, heck from .22LR pistol to .50BMG M-2HB's it kills the competition. My first hint this was a breakthru was a 950rd 1 hour session with a LE entity using a 11.5" SR-16, and the Flash Hider was still moist with the FIREClean after the range session.
Also on a precision gun standpoint it seems to reduce bore fouling and copper build up to next to nil.
I'm a pretty lazy guy, and this reduces both the cleanings I give and the cleaning time needed.
I don't usually go head of heels for products - but I am here.
Wow...thanks! This is a pretty heavy endorsement of Fire Clean.
I went from Froglube to Fireclean to Rand CLP. Kyle Lamb is who turned me on to Rand, after he tested Froglube, Fireclean, SLIP, and a host of others both in the field, and viewed lab test results as well. I have been very pleased with it. I was who sold Robb his Rubber City Armory BCG, and I included some Rand CLP with it. I am anxious to see his impressions of the product, as I know he has also gone from Froglube to Fireclean, IIRC.
I did run FireClean for 1 day at a carbine course. It did okay. Nothing to complain about, nothing to really get excited about. Clean Up was the same as any other quality lube of the new variety (Rand, Froglube, SEAL 1, etc. Basically anything with a super high flash or vapor point is going to leave minimal carbon and prevent its adherence, I have found). However, I have found that FireClean does VERY well when used to break the carbon off of things, like a Noveske Switchblock, and keep a bottle for such occasions.
WS6 thanks for the info. Looking for real world quantifiable info. before I decide to change what I'm using.
Anyone tested Mobil 1 against Rand, Frog, Fire Clean?
jaybirdritenour2
07-05-13, 22:52
You can just toss FIREClean on -- it will break up carbon and lube the weapon.
However carbon adheres to carbon, so totally cleaning the gun first and applying it on a clean prep surface will work best.
I'm a TOTAL convert to FIREClean.
PERIOD
For suppressed guns, it is the BEST lube I have seen, heck from .22LR pistol to .50BMG M-2HB's it kills the competition. My first hint this was a breakthru was a 950rd 1 hour session with a LE entity using a 11.5" SR-16, and the Flash Hider was still moist with the FIREClean after the range session.
Also on a precision gun standpoint it seems to reduce bore fouling and copper build up to next to nil.
I'm a pretty lazy guy, and this reduces both the cleanings I give and the cleaning time needed.
I don't usually go head of heels for products - but I am here.
Wow, I'm glad I asked about FireClean. And its even going on an 11.5 SR-15.:D
You can just toss FIREClean on -- it will break up carbon and lube the weapon.
However carbon adheres to carbon, so totally cleaning the gun first and applying it on a clean prep surface will work best.
I'm a TOTAL convert to FIREClean.
PERIOD
For suppressed guns, it is the BEST lube I have seen, heck from .22LR pistol to .50BMG M-2HB's it kills the competition. My first hint this was a breakthru was a 950rd 1 hour session with a LE entity using a 11.5" SR-16, and the Flash Hider was still moist with the FIREClean after the range session.
Also on a precision gun standpoint it seems to reduce bore fouling and copper build up to next to nil.
I'm a pretty lazy guy, and this reduces both the cleanings I give and the cleaning time needed.
I don't usually go head of heels for products - but I am here.
I've got a 2-pack on the way. I keep reading reviews like this so I guess we'll see!
Got an idea: the little bottles are 2oz each, right? That's about enough to fill a tall-ish shot glass (perfect size for an AR bolt). Since I have a 2-pack coming I figure I can fill 2 shot glasses----one for dropping in a dirty bolt and letting the FireClean eat at the carbon and then another to submerge the now clean bolt in to soak up the FireClean into the metal. Considering with displacement it wouldn't even require the whole 2oz to cover a bolt once in the glass I can perhaps get away with using one bottle at a time for both purposes.
Always use the "dirty" one for dirty bolts and eventually rotate the "clean" one into the dirty role and fill up a fresh "clean" glass.
Yeah, I know it's a rather expensive product per ounce but what the hell, it's just money right? :rolleyes:
I just shot a bunch of rounds thru my OBR, and it just wipes clean. Its great shit. I am just a gun bum, but plenty of pros like Frank Proctor, Mike Pannone, Jason Falla, Paul Howe, and Pat McNamara use Fireclean.
Its worth a shot.
I think I'll give this a try. Been a FL paste user for over a year now i think. I like it for the most part but hate the application. Takes too long with a hair dryer so i stick the bcg in the toaster for a minute or two. I've got a buddy who forgot his bcg in the oven at just shy of 500 degrees for 10 minutes... :rolleyes: I'm sure he'd appreciate the ease of application as well.
Very looking forward to trying this product, especially with the quality of people endorsing it here.
Failure2Stop
07-07-13, 19:43
Got an idea: the little bottles are 2oz each, right? That's about enough to fill a tall-ish shot glass (perfect size for an AR bolt). Since I have a 2-pack coming I figure I can fill 2 shot glasses----one for dropping in a dirty bolt and letting the FireClean eat at the carbon and then another to submerge the now clean bolt in to soak up the FireClean into the metal. Considering with displacement it wouldn't even require the whole 2oz to cover a bolt once in the glass I can perhaps get away with using one bottle at a time for both purposes.
Always use the "dirty" one for dirty bolts and eventually rotate the "clean" one into the dirty role and fill up a fresh "clean" glass.
Yeah, I know it's a rather expensive product per ounce but what the hell, it's just money right? :rolleyes:
Not really necessary.
Simple generous application is sufficient.
I still use KG1 for heavy cleaning and save the FC for lube.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
jaybirdritenour2
07-13-13, 12:35
Wow. Cleaned my gun and put this lube on and the difference is great. I have not shot or cleaned with this yet but the action is way smoother than anything I have tried before. Makes it rack like it is on rollers. And I didnt even use that much of it. I am impressed so far.
Voodoo_Man
07-13-13, 12:38
I was given some to try and I will, everything is snake oil until i see it work.
I was given some to try and I will, everything is snake oil until i see it work.
Understood - that was me 6 months ago...
sinlessorrow
07-15-13, 09:20
Have not had a chance to go to the range due to work, but I did get it on my weapons and I am impressed with how well it stays put.
Unlike most liquid lubes this one stays where you put it far better. My BCG after a week still has lots of lube on the rails and gas rings, even with Slip2000 at that point it starts thinning out.
I'll update after next saturday when I finally get a chance to shoot.
flanntastic
07-15-13, 20:47
I ran Fireclean over a 3 day class this weekend, with a Knights E3. I am now a big fan, I prefer it over froglube. I ran the gun wet and it didn't seem to run out the lower when hot as much as most lubes. I wish the bottles were bigger though for the $.
I ran Fireclean over a 3 day class this weekend, with a Knights E3. I am now a big fan, I prefer it over froglube. I ran the gun wet and it didn't seem to run out the lower when hot as much as most lubes. I wish the bottles were bigger though for the $.
Prefer it over Froglube why? Flanntastic, that is not sarcaem. As a FL user myself I want to know why you do.
Sinless, from our past PM's I realize you don't favor Froglube either. ;)
Looking forward to your results with Fireclean bud.
-Jax
sinlessorrow
07-15-13, 22:10
Prefer it over Froglube why? Flanntastic, that is not sarcaem. As a FL user myself I want to know why you do.
Sinless, from our past PM's I realize you don't favor Froglube either. ;)
Looking forward to your results with Fireclean bud.
-Jax
Yeah I had bad rust problems with Froglube, So far Fireclean has kept my weapon rust free.
I am excited to test this stuff out and see how well it does.
I was considering trying out some of the others mentioned here but since I'm not one to waste I was waiting until my breakfree was gone. Think this will be the one I try first.
Yeah I had bad rust problems with Froglube, So far Fireclean has kept my weapon rust free.
I am excited to test this stuff out and see how well it does.
This is very interesting to me as in all of my observation, Fireclean does far less to prevent it.
However, I used Froglube on my rifle and did get rust. When I use FireClean, it did not rust. I don't know if something in the powder/primer residue does not get along with FL, or what.
flanntastic
07-16-13, 18:08
Prefer it over Froglube why? Flanntastic, that is not sarcaem. As a FL user myself I want to know why you do.
Sinless, from our past PM's I realize you don't favor Froglube either. ;)
Looking forward to your results with Fireclean bud.
-Jax
Frog luge seemed to come streaming out of the upper/lower seem once the gun got really hot. The fireclean seemed to stay on the bolt and upper better.
However....I was in a hotel for cleaning and did not heat up parts the way some do with froglube.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Frog luge seemed to come streaming out of the upper/lower seem once the gun got really hot. The fireclean seemed to stay on the bolt and upper better.
However....I was in a hotel for cleaning and did not heat up parts the way some do with froglube.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Copy that and thanks for the input. Have to place an order from DSG soon. May put some FC on the order to try out. Once I get some bulk .22 I am thinking about doing a test with Fire Clean and Froglube in my M&P 22 with a can and see what chokes first. Hopefully I can do this in the near future.
-Jax
I'm curious to know how many coats you guys are using on a completely cleaned/degreased gun to get the silky smooth action. I put one coat on a couple days ago and let it soak in, then another one today and my LE6940 still seems a little gritty when cycling the bolt. Maybe it's because the gun is still fairly new?
Heavy Metal
07-20-13, 18:29
I'm curious to know how many coats you guys are using on a completely cleaned/degreased gun to get the silky smooth action. I put one coat on a couple days ago and let it soak in, then another one today and my LE6940 still seems a little gritty when cycling the bolt. Maybe it's because the gun is still fairly new?
That grit is mainly from the spring, buffer and buffer tube, it will wear smooth soon with a bit of shooting.
sinlessorrow
07-20-13, 19:11
That grit is mainly from the spring, buffer and buffer tube, it will wear smooth soon with a bit of shooting.
Charging handle plays a big part in the grit as well.
Failure2Stop
07-20-13, 20:04
I'm curious to know how many coats you guys are using on a completely cleaned/degreased gun to get the silky smooth action. I put one coat on a couple days ago and let it soak in, then another one today and my LE6940 still seems a little gritty when cycling the bolt. Maybe it's because the gun is still fairly new?
It might take a grand or two to get the gun worn in.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
That grit is mainly from the spring, buffer and buffer tube, it will wear smooth soon with a bit of shooting.
Charging handle plays a big part in the grit as well.
It might take a grand or two to get the gun worn in.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
Thanks for the input gents, I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't applying it incorrectly...it was nowhere near as quiet as the video demonstration they have. I guess I'll have to shoot it a bunch and report back.
sinlessorrow
07-20-13, 20:53
This is very interesting to me as in all of my observation, Fireclean does far less to prevent it.
However, I used Froglube on my rifle and did get rust. When I use FireClean, it did not rust. I don't know if something in the powder/primer residue does not get along with FL, or what.
I think the main difference may be since FL is a paste it resists salt water soaked paper towels better since it is actually a thick pasty barrier.
When it comes to what is best for a salt water mist or humidity fireclean works better because if you happen to miss any of the parts it will spread to those parts, unlike FL that just never moves unless you want to oven bake your rifle.
Thats my experiences living in a high humidity, high salt water area. What is most interesting to me, is that unlike other liquid lubricants fireclean stays put in areas where things contact each other, so even after a week of sitting my rifle and handguns are still suffeciently wet on places like the carrier rails, cam pin, and gas rings. On my beretta the rails and locking block are still wet as well.
Other liquid lubes would have moved out of the rifle fully by now, including slip2000 EWL.
jaybirdritenour2
07-21-13, 20:09
Thanks for the input gents, I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't applying it incorrectly...it was nowhere near as quiet as the video demonstration they have. I guess I'll have to shoot it a bunch and report back.
Knights rifles sound way smoother with the fireclean. My Colt is smoother with the fireclean but still makes way more noise and drags more than my Knights with it.
It might take a grand or two to get the gun worn in.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
Agreed. I've used all the wonderlubes and none made much difference over the other. My 4000 round noveske felt the same with fireclean as clp. Now, what does seem to matter is round count, and quality. My Daniel Defense after just 500 rounds is almost as smooth as that noveske, and some guys at a course I took who had 15-20k on their guns, those felt like glass. The only new rifle that just blew me away was a JP .308 a state trooper was using as their DMR. That thing was SLICK!
I think the main difference may be since FL is a paste it resists salt water soaked paper towels better since it is actually a thick pasty barrier.
When it comes to what is best for a salt water mist or humidity fireclean works better because if you happen to miss any of the parts it will spread to those parts, unlike FL that just never moves unless you want to oven bake your rifle.
Thats my experiences living in a high humidity, high salt water area. What is most interesting to me, is that unlike other liquid lubricants fireclean stays put in areas where things contact each other, so even after a week of sitting my rifle and handguns are still suffeciently wet on places like the carrier rails, cam pin, and gas rings. On my beretta the rails and locking block are still wet as well.
Other liquid lubes would have moved out of the rifle fully by now, including slip2000 EWL.
I got better protection with every other lube than fireclean. A heavy layer of fireclean with tap water soaked paper vs. Breakfree clp wiped off to a discolored smudge and salt water soaked, the bf. Resisted rust many times longer.
That said, I used fireclean in some humid weather and it did fine. Froglube did not. I'm still undecided on the stuff. Id like a few performance matrix changes, and for now, am using Rand CLP as its done great for me in every aspect, and Kyle Lamb recommended it to me long before he actually partnered with Rand.
jonconsiglio
07-23-13, 11:15
You guys are all insane! Don't get me wrong, I'm glad to hear of the testing and personal experiences. Still, I think a few of y'all are obsessive and crazy... ;)
I live in South Texas. Every day is in the high 90's to low 100's with high humidity. I live literally one block from the ocean and the majority of my shooting is outdoors, plus I often have a rifle in the car.
I do a lot of shooting and hunting at a dusty, windy ranch with ponds and muddy areas. My guns get covered in all kinds of crap. They'll be outdoors for 16 hours a day. They'll go in and out of an air conditioned house on the ranch, which forms condensation.
I occasionally take a rifle out on the boat. No matter what, I always have a handgun on me, typically a Glock 17.
I've used Slip EWL for a while now and my local shop gave me a bottle of Frog Lube liquid and about a 1/4 tub of the paste. I'm very interested in trying Fireclean as well.
But, my guns barely show any rust. What rust is there, is surface rust that cleans up easily. When I'm at a class or at the ranch and my guns get filthy or covered in mud, I might hose them down with fresh water, dry them off with a towel then they sit in the sun for a bit. I then squirt some Slip or now Frog Lube on the bolt, carrier, fire control group and the pins.
I've never had issues with rust other than a brushed stainless Ed Brown I carried for a few months. As a lubricant, Slip and Frog Lube have both worked very well for my needs. If I think it needs more, I add more.
As for application, I applied Frog Lube just as I do Slip.... I cleaned the guns before the first application, then just squirted it on, worked the action a few times and called it good.
Of the Slip and Frog Lube, I'm content using whichever I have on hand at the time. I am interested in the Fireclean though as I've heard a lot of good things about it.
I'd generally have a hard time believing it works any better than Slip and would eventually test it myself just to see if there was any benefit or not. But, I've seen enough members here that I either know or know of enough to trust their experiences. So, I'll definitely give it a try at some point.
I'm not worried about it being a rust preventative. My guns never sit for more than a day without sry or live firing, so I'm pretty quick to see any surface rust forming.
sinlessorrow
07-23-13, 11:32
You guys are all insane! Don't get me wrong, I'm glad to hear of the testing and personal experiences. Still, I think a few of y'all are obsessive and crazy... ;)
I live in South Texas. Every day is in the high 90's to low 100's with high humidity. I live literally one block from the ocean and the majority of my shooting is outdoors, plus I often have a rifle in the car.
I do a lot of shooting and hunting at a dusty, windy ranch with ponds and muddy areas. My guns get covered in all kinds of crap. They'll be outdoors for 16 hours a day. They'll go in and out of an air conditioned house on the ranch, which forms condensation.
I occasionally take a rifle out on the boat. No matter what, I always have a handgun on me, typically a Glock 17.
I've used Slip EWL for a while now and my local shop gave me a bottle of Frog Lube liquid and about a 1/4 tub of the paste. I'm very interested in trying Fireclean as well.
But, my guns barely show any rust. What rust is there, is surface rust that cleans up easily. When I'm at a class or at the ranch and my guns get filthy or covered in mud, I might hose them down with fresh water, dry them off with a towel then they sit in the sun for a bit. I then squirt some Slip or now Frog Lube on the bolt, carrier, fire control group and the pins.
I've never had issues with rust other than a brushed stainless Ed Brown I carried for a few months. As a lubricant, Slip and Frog Lube have both worked very well for my needs. If I think it needs more, I add more.
As for application, I applied Frog Lube just as I do Slip.... I cleaned the guns before the first application, then just squirted it on, worked the action a few times and called it good.
Of the Slip and Frog Lube, I'm content using whichever I have on hand at the time. I am interested in the Fireclean though as I've heard a lot of good things about it.
I'd generally have a hard time believing it works any better than Slip and would eventually test it myself just to see if there was any benefit or not. But, I've seen enough members here that I either know or know of enough to trust their experiences. So, I'll definitely give it a try at some point.
I'm not worried about it being a rust preventative. My guns never sit for more than a day without sry or live firing, so I'm pretty quick to see any surface rust forming.
Oddly enough your notthat far from me.
Lawnchair 04
07-23-13, 11:44
before i left on my deployment i lubed all my ar's with froglube hopefully they held up well. i guess ill find out when i get back in a couple months. if not i guess i look into some fireclean
before i left on my deployment i lubed all my ar's with froglube hopefully they held up well. i guess ill find out when i get back in a couple months. if not i guess i look into some fireclean
I am located in Dallas, and I have had used exclusively FL for past couple years, total of about 10k rounds split 50/50 between AR-15 and my Glock. I have observed 0 rust issues, my guns are with me daily thru sweat, dirt, rain, cold, heat, and shot roughly every other day. Not saying it doesn't happen, just I have not observed any rust in my climate and application. Also if it matters I do not clean my weapons beyond a quick external wipe down.
P.S. I bought some Fireclean to try based on other FL users. :p
jonconsiglio
07-23-13, 12:39
Oddly enough your notthat far from me.
I know you told me before, but I'm drawing a blank, where are you? A couple hours north of me, right?
The best protectant I have found is Eezox. It is also a much better lube than it is given credit for. If properly applied it dries to a film that stays put and only goes away if removed with a solvent. I've been using it since 1994. I keep trying the "latest and greatest" but I haven't found anything that works better.
Some people object to the triclor it uses as a thinner/solvent but unless you are constantly exposed to it it is a non issue for me.
sinlessorrow
07-23-13, 16:59
I know you told me before, but I'm drawing a blank, where are you? A couple hours north of me, right?
Up near Beaumont, more like NE from you. Its about a 4hr drive.
Im actually in a town called Port Neches which is like 7 min closer than beaumont, but no one has ever heard of this place because the only thing out here are the refineries, major sea port, and the jails/prisons lol.
The best protectant I have found is Eezox. It is also a much better lube than it is given credit for. If properly applied it dries to a film that stays put and only goes away if removed with a solvent. I've been using it since 1994. I keep trying the "latest and greatest" but I haven't found anything that works better.
Some people object to the triclor it uses as a thinner/solvent but unless you are constantly exposed to it it is a non issue for me.
M4 type weapons need a fluid lube for best performance.
I disagree re wet lube requirements for ARs. There are "dry films" which I do agree are not the best choice for an AR (except for special conditions). There are other lubes that are not "wet" like TW25 grease or Tetra Grease that are reported to work very well.
The film Eezox leaves is more like a wax and it can also be applied so a "wet" film remains. IME the wet film persists for months and remains after several hundred rounds are fired. Unlike Frog Lube, Seal One and their like, Eezox has excellent extreme pressure lube properties and it continues to provide excellent corrosion protection even if it is "wiped dry".
Try it and tell me what you think.
I disagree re wet lube requirements for ARs. There are "dry films" which I do agree are not the best choice for an AR (except for special conditions). There are other lubes that are not "wet" like TW25 grease or Tetra Grease that are reported to work very well.
The film Eezox leaves is more like a wax and it can also be applied so a "wet" film remains. IME the wet film persists for months and remains after several hundred rounds are fired. Unlike Frog Lube, Seal One and their like, Eezox has excellent extreme pressure lube properties and it continues to provide excellent corrosion protection even if it is "wiped dry".
Try it and tell me what you think.
I've wanted to try it, but have not seen it for sale. I guess I could google and get it, but have also read that it is very* toxic. My hands have issues with plain CLP from BreakFree. Part of the reason I went to Rand CLP (and why others have gone with Froglube/FireClean) is because of the lack of harsh odor and carcinogens and other nasties. When I shoot suppressed, I get crap blown back in my face. None of that makes me happy, but I would rather it be FireClean/Froglube/Rand than Eezox, because I could care less about wear and tear on my rifle if it's going to end up increasing---even the slightest bit---my risk of lung cancer or something over using a different product that may allow a micron more wear or something.
I understand your health concerns. If you do need to use it in a way that involves hand exposure I use nitrile gloves, but then I use gloves when I am going to be in contact with most gun solvents. Once the solvent flashes off there is nothing to "blow back etc". It is probably more stable than most other gun lubes because it has a specific gravity of more than 1.3. It is heavy and stays on the surface.
Go here and read about it: http://eezox.com/gun-care.html
Back in the mid 1990s I spoke with the inventor of Eezox. He was a retired engineer who IIRC had worked for Texaco developing additives for high endurance turbine oils. He was an avid salt water fisherman and wanted a lube/protectant that would work on his expensive fishing reels,
I understand your health concerns. If you do need to use it in a way that involves hand exposure I use nitrile gloves, but then I use gloves when I am going to be in contact with most gun solvents. Once the solvent flashes off there is nothing to "blow back etc". It is probably more stable than most other gun lubes because it has a specific gravity of more than 1.3. It is heavy and stays on the surface.
Go here and read about it: http://eezox.com/gun-care.html
Back in the mid 1990s I spoke with the inventor of Eezox. He was a retired engineer who IIRC had worked for Texaco developing additives for high endurance turbine oils. He was an avid salt water fisherman and wanted a lube/protectant that would work on his expensive fishing reels,
When hot gasses get on the BCG from backwash down a bore of a suppressed weapon + gas cycling the action, it's going to produce vapor. That vapor from Eezox is toxic. I would just rather not, considering that it's not necessary.
http://www.eezox.info/msds.html
You do understand that the only potentially toxic ingredient according to the MSDS is the triclor - right. It is gone shortly after the Eezox is applied - it is very volatile. The remaining ester compounds are similar to what is used in Fire Clean, Rand CLP and many other modern gun lubes.
You do understand that the only potentially toxic ingredient according to the MSDS is the triclor - right. It is gone shortly after the Eezox is applied - it is very volatile. The remaining ester compounds are similar to what is used in Fire Clean, Rand CLP and many other modern gun lubes.
Interesting. I still do not feel that a dry lube can be nearly as effective as a fluid lubricant. What carries the carbon gunk out of the mechanism?
A couple of points: The way I use Eezox on my ARs is to apply it with a small brush and leave a wet layer on the parts. When the solvent flashes off what is left behind has the consistency of honey and while it will migrate some it leaves a very persistent film that looks wet. Once the parts have been "seasoned" with Eezox cleanup is just a wipe down. The carbon doesn't adhere to the metal anymore.
Eezox is stable to at least 450*F so it is unlikely it will vaporize anywhere in the receiver of an AR. Because of its consistency it doesn't blow off surfaces either.
sinlessorrow
07-24-13, 15:09
A couple of points: The way I use Eezox on my ARs is to apply it with a small brush and leave a wet layer on the parts. When the solvent flashes off what is left behind has the consistency of honey and while it will migrate some it leaves a very persistent film that looks wet. Once the parts have been "seasoned" with Eezox cleanup is just a wipe down. The carbon doesn't adhere to the metal anymore.
Eezox is stable to at least 450*F so it is unlikely it will vaporize anywhere in the receiver of an AR. Because of its consistency it doesn't blow off surfaces either.
That sounds horrible. Ill stick to lubricants that leave a wet slick feeling.
There's another thread where Magpul and KAC speak highly of Fire Clean. And then there's this test.
http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
"Cleaning and Lubrication
A cleaning and lubrication schedule was followed – at 2,500 and 7,500 rounds, the bolt carrier group was wiped down with a paper towel, and at 5,000 rounds, a detailed cleaning was undertaken. A single drop of FireClean lubricant was applied to the cam pin hole of the bolt carrier group every 1,000 rounds, and six drops were used after each of the aforementioned cleaning intervals. Certain small parts were replaced as needed, and they will be discussed later in the article. After all initial tests were complete, the bulk of the shooting commenced."
Perhaps the "honey" analogy was a bad one. Eezox has a very low coefficient of friction and the film is very slippery. I was only referring to its viscosity.
I just started using this based on reading the recommendations in this thread and so far I am very impressed. Admittedly I am a bit of a lube connoisseur - or should I say always trying the latest and greatest - but I really like the various lubricants that seem to "stay" where you put them. Last week it was a balmy 108 here in Las Vegas and at my local range where there was no shade and my rifle was hot enough it was hard to handle without gloves, the Fireclean seemed to really stay put and keep from any form of "cook-off." The particular rifle I was shooting was already quite smooth as it has around 4K rounds through it, but the Fireclean does seem to slick up the action a bit. I am going to go at least 1K through the rifles I have applied it to and evaluate it more then.
Perhaps the "honey" analogy was a bad one. Eezox has a very low coefficient of friction and the film is very slippery. I was only referring to its viscosity.
And why that is great for a strictly Maritime environment - sand and dusty areas kill those types of lubes.
zeusturtle
07-27-13, 15:43
There's another thread where Magpul and KAC speak highly of Fire Clean. And then there's this test.
http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
"Cleaning and Lubrication
A cleaning and lubrication schedule was followed – at 2,500 and 7,500 rounds, the bolt carrier group was wiped down with a paper towel, and at 5,000 rounds, a detailed cleaning was undertaken. A single drop of FireClean lubricant was applied to the cam pin hole of the bolt carrier group every 1,000 rounds, and six drops were used after each of the aforementioned cleaning intervals. Certain small parts were replaced as needed, and they will be discussed later in the article. After all initial tests were complete, the bulk of the shooting commenced."
Hands down, one of the best reads I've seen. If I wasn't so new to this (or any) forums, I would +1 you (if it existed, but this isn't google chrome).
Read over this thread and watched a video from fireclean's site and then read the part of their application that said, " FIREClean removes carbon and lead fouling but does not remove copper fouling".
But I never came across anyone actually applying it down the barrel with a patch or whatever as a bore cleaner. I am assuming that it's okay, but do you leave it or run dry patches through after?
elephantrider
07-28-13, 02:03
Read over this thread and watched a video from fireclean's site and then read the part of their application that said, " FIREClean removes carbon and lead fouling but does not remove copper fouling".
But I never came across anyone actually applying it down the barrel with a patch or whatever as a bore cleaner. I am assuming that it's okay, but do you leave it or run dry patches through after?
Read the last couple paragraphs from Jason Falla's post in his 'Ask the SME' section. He is using it that way. Clean the fouling out of the bore with FireClean, leave it wet, wipe it dry before firing again.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=108328
jerparker1
07-28-13, 03:02
Perhaps the "honey" analogy was a bad one. Eezox has a very low coefficient of friction and the film is very slippery. I was only referring to its viscosity.
Ok, we get it. You love Eezox!
Failure2Stop
09-18-13, 16:40
Not really necessary.
Simple generous application is sufficient.
I still use KG1 for heavy cleaning and save the FC for lube.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
I have recently discovered that this is not the best way to approach cleaning.
As stated before, stripping the gun of all oils/lubricants/cleaners is needed to get the initial treatment of the metal with FC. If during application you see the FC beading up, there is residual oil that is preventing contact that needs to be removed. FC will still work as a lube and limit carbon adherence, but it won't be as effective as it could be.
Mixing petroleum based products with non-petroleum products robs each of their utility. Better than nothing, but not optimal. Also, FC seems to shed carbon better the longer it is used, if it is used alone.
Basically, by cleaning with KG1 I was apparently removing the treatment and starting at zero with every cleaning. This was most notable on the bolt tail and suppressor mounting device.
I am going to start using it for bore maintenance after some reports of limiting the carbon/copper layers in precision rifles and putting them under a bore-scope to see how effective it is over time.
If I missed it I apologize, has anyone used FC in colder temps? Any issues?
F-Trooper05
09-18-13, 21:20
If I missed it I apologize, has anyone used FC in colder temps? Any issues?
What part of AK are you in? I'm in Fairbanks and have an SR15 that has been lubed with Fireclean since day one out of the box, and nothing else. I plan on leaving my gun outside overnight the first time it hits -40 this winter and doing on write-up on the results.
If I missed it I apologize, has anyone used FC in colder temps? Any issues?
I have tested it in my freezer and initially determined that it performs very well down to -10*F, thickening like a syrup, but still being quite liquid. One thing I did notice with it, however, is that it seemed to combine with condensation, and then it would indeed freeze solid. I discovered this by leaving it in the freezer for 24 hours or so (a few de-frost cycles) and noting that even around 0*F, it had frozen pretty firm, and was white instead of clear. My only thought is that it combined with the water/condensation to do so. I casually tried mixing it with water, and it wouldn't, very well, so this may indeed not be it, but it's all I can think of.
I have recently discovered that this is not the best way to approach cleaning.
As stated before, stripping the gun of all oils/lubricants/cleaners is needed to get the initial treatment of the metal with FC. If during application you see the FC beading up, there is residual oil that is preventing contact that needs to be removed. FC will still work as a lube and limit carbon adherence, but it won't be as effective as it could be.
Mixing petroleum based products with non-petroleum products robs each of their utility. Better than nothing, but not optimal. Also, FC seems to shed carbon better the longer it is used, if it is used alone.
Basically, by cleaning with KG1 I was apparently removing the treatment and starting at zero with every cleaning. This was most notable on the bolt tail and suppressor mounting device.
I am going to start using it for bore maintenance after some reports of limiting the carbon/copper layers in precision rifles and putting them under a bore-scope to see how effective it is over time.
I drop the bolt and carrier in my ultrasonic, so that is pretty good for "stripping" oils and solvents. When I drop the clean bolt into the FireClean (which is in an old pill bottle just tall enough to submerge it) it comes out glistening----but not beading up. I suspend it over the bottle to let the excess run off and then wipe the carrier down with it and put 'er back together.
Anybody find a lowest price with shipping on the web? Maybe a group buy? I'd like to try it for the lowest price possible.
Failure2Stop
09-19-13, 00:33
Anybody find a lowest price with shipping on the web? Maybe a group buy? I'd like to try it for the lowest price possible.
This is an interesting proposition.
I'll see if I can contact them about the idea.
No idea at all if this is possible.
Will update.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
Well, i repeated my experiment. Maybe I just did not wait long enough. The FireClean after several hours at -10-0*F is frozen like old ice-cream and is white and opaque. It melts at touch.
jaybirdritenour2
09-19-13, 06:57
It seems to dry up or soak in very fast . I keep applying it but its gone in a few days. How long should it stay wet if I put a good amount on?
It seems to dry up or soak in very fast . I keep applying it but its gone in a few days. How long should it stay wet if I put a good amount on?
According to Fireclean, it is absorbing into the pores of the finish on the metal.
As a reference point, I am performing an on-going corrosion test with FireClean on a bare nail. It is still apparently coating the surface of said nail after almost a month, albeit thinly, but thus-far effectively.
Failure2Stop
09-19-13, 08:11
It seems to dry up or soak in very fast . I keep applying it but its gone in a few days. How long should it stay wet if I put a good amount on?
I find that odd.
One of the reasons I like FC is that it stays around.
Don't know if you might need to do a more thorough degrease.
Then again, it might be a difference in our application volume.
4DAIVI PAI2K5
09-19-13, 08:52
Just ordered some. :ph34r:
What part of AK are you in? I'm in Fairbanks and have an SR15 that has been lubed with Fireclean since day one out of the box, and nothing else. I plan on leaving my gun outside overnight the first time it hits -40 this winter and doing on write-up on the results.
We moved from Fairbanks to Valdez... A lot warmer here, but I still predator hunt in the interior, so I'm definitely curious to see how FC will react to real cold... Heard you guys got snow the other day, and so it begins...
jaybirdritenour2
09-19-13, 09:22
I find that odd.
One of the reasons I like FC is that it stays around.
Don't know if you might need to do a more thorough degrease.
Then again, it might be a difference in our application volume.
I put quite a bit on. Just the way I lube my guns. Now in a few days enough is gone where I feel the friction again. When I look at it so much is gone it looks like it is just a thin coat soaking in the metal. I like the slickness it has when first applied but not liking it after a few days so far. Maybe I will try to degrease better. I used the Frog lube spray cleaner which seemed to get the metal very dry but maybe not enough or something.
I've been using FrogLube for a year or so now and have been pleased with it. I used to heat up the parts with a hair dryer when applying the lube. Now I've gotten to where I do the same thing jonconsiglio mentioned a couple of pages back. Wipe everything down, put on FL, reassemble and cycle the action a couple of times. I might give Fireclean a try though just to see what all the fuss is about.
Failure2Stop
09-19-13, 15:53
I put quite a bit on. Just the way I lube my guns. Now in a few days enough is gone where I feel the friction again. When I look at it so much is gone it looks like it is just a thin coat soaking in the metal.
Gotcha.
For storage I maintain a light coat and prior to use I add a few drops to friction points.
I'm not sure that it is the "slipperiest" of lubricants, though that isn't the main desirability point for my use. My preference for it comes through it's ability to reduce carbon accumulation, easier carbon removal, and continued presence during suppressed firing, while being non-toxic.
jaybirdritenour2
09-19-13, 16:03
Gotcha.
For storage I maintain a light coat and prior to use I add a few drops to friction points.
I'm not sure that it is the "slipperiest" of lubricants, though that isn't the main desirability point for my use. My preference for it comes through it's ability to reduce carbon accumulation, easier carbon removal, and continued presence during suppressed firing, while being non-toxic.
That is my concern. If it goes away that much in a few days then how long will it last where I can just pick up my rifle and use it without having to oil again. Or do you oil every time you use it?I would hate to need it for a self defense reason a couple months down the road and get malfunctions because it is completely dry. I am looking for all the same stuff as you and especially the suppressed fire and being non toxic.
I tend to put 2-3 drops in the BCG holes, cycle it a few times, shoot a couple hundred rounds suppressed, wipe the bcg with those blue shop towels, then store mostly dry as-is (with fireclean still in the pores of the metal since I didn't degrease)... repeat. The act of cycling it tends to get fireclean EVERYWHERE.
jaybirdritenour2
09-19-13, 18:10
It does seem to stay on my Knights bolt group way better than my Colt. The Colt one just soaks it up quickly no matter how many coats?? But there is enough left on my receiver walls to have a little less friction than being dry.
What part of AK are you in? I'm in Fairbanks and have an SR15 that has been lubed with Fireclean since day one out of the box, and nothing else. I plan on leaving my gun outside overnight the first time it hits -40 this winter and doing on write-up on the results.
When did you pick up the SR15?!
My thoughts on using FIREClean for over 2 years now up here in Alaska.
http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/
I think -26F was as low as I went. Frankly, even though I love hunting and training, I doubt I will use it much colder than that.
It does seem to stay on my Knights bolt group way better than my Colt. The Colt one just soaks it up quickly no matter how many coats?? But there is enough left on my receiver walls to have a little less friction than being dry.
I thought Fireclean mentioned something about this on one of their videos, about how certain metals will "absorb" more of the lube than others, but eventually when the metal becomes saturated you will have a nice film left on the surface. I could me making that up, though...
Failure2Stop
09-20-13, 11:24
It does seem to stay on my Knights bolt group way better than my Colt. The Colt one just soaks it up quickly no matter how many coats?? But there is enough left on my receiver walls to have a little less friction than being dry.
Parkerizing soaks up liquid really well, and new bolt carriers will generally have a pretty aggressive parkerizing that will wear down with use.
FC seems to do a very good job even with a thin coat.
Please remember that when I say that I re-lube prior to shooting, I am talking about a drop or two on the bolt, and one on each "rail" of the BCG, and that the guns are being prepped to fire several hundreds of rounds while suppressed from 7.62 and 5.56 and I will not have the opportunity to check on them for hours at a time.
As far as not functioning if in immediate need: ARs can generally make it to 300+ with no lubricant at all. This is not due to friction or heat, but from fouling accumulation in conjunction with the above.
It does, however, raise an interesting question, so the next time I am at the range and have a few hundred rounds to waste (which is becoming less and less frequent), I'll wipe the operating parts "dry" (not degrease, just leave the film of FC on the parts) and see how long I can go before I get a fouling related stoppage.
Marler5811
09-20-13, 11:29
I've been using FireCLEAN for about a year now. Personal Guns. Company Guns. Full Auto. Suppressed. I've used it a lot. I've been nothing short of impressed. Great lubrication properties and makes cleaning painless.
jaybirdritenour2
09-20-13, 16:07
I hope that is the case. But it just keeps soaking it up. Put a ton on the Colt 3 times and its almost dry still. Wonder if it will seep out of the pores once I get it hot from shooting. I have yet to shoot the Colt with the Fireclean.
jaybirdritenour2
09-20-13, 16:10
It does, however, raise an interesting question, so the next time I am at the range and have a few hundred rounds to waste (which is becoming less and less frequent), I'll wipe the operating parts "dry" (not degrease, just leave the film of FC on the parts) and see how long I can go before I get a fouling related stoppage.
That would be a good test. And yes my Colt has a very thick Park job so you are probably right.
Since having switched to FireClean I am very impressed as well; and while I thought that the lubricant had migrated from being stored upright in my safe, a few rounds into the first magazine and my carrier was nice and wet. I am not sure if there is a similar phenomenon as Frog Lube, but it seemed whatever lube had "dried out" came back in a hurry.
I hope that is the case. But it just keeps soaking it up. Put a ton on the Colt 3 times and its almost dry still. Wonder if it will seep out of the pores once I get it hot from shooting. I have yet to shoot the Colt with the Fireclean.
Have you fully degreased it as was talked about a page or two ago?
jaybirdritenour2
09-20-13, 16:48
Not yet. I will next time I shoot with it. Haven't shot for a few weeks. But I did use the frog lube spray cleaner last time and it really seemed to dry out the metal. It almost acted like it had rubbing alcohol it. Unless there was some hiding in the pores, because it was bone dry to the touch.
Is hard chrome a surface that can absorb FireClean? i.e. a hard chromed bolt.
Absolutely, somewhat, or not at all?
Failure2Stop
09-21-13, 09:00
Is hard chrome a surface that can absorb FireClean? i.e. a hard chromed bolt.
Absolutely, somewhat, or not at all?
I think that the perception of metal absorbing a liquid is a bit off.
Under magnification, machined metal will show imperfections at the surface. FC gets into these little imperfections when it is coating the rest of the part, and wherever is covered will resist carbon adherence and growth. I haven't seen any proof that any fluid can penetrate into metal beyond a surface coating.
After continued use, it seems to me that the residual FC is coating the part, including nickel boron and hard chrome, as long as they are thoroughly degreased.
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No metal "absorbs" lube. The lube fills and occupies the pores on the surface of the metal. The more porous it is, the more lube that will be retained on the surface. (parkerization = more pores; chrome = less pores). If you cleaned it "dry" then there will be more empty pores to occupy, requiring more lube. It also doesn't dry, then re-hydrate upon shooting. It may be in the pores and gone viscous, then become liquid with the heat, thereby weeping from the pores and appearing as if from nowhere, but that isn't magic.
In my long association with weapons, I have stuck with Breakfree CLP since it was introduced to the Marine Corps sometime in the early 80's. I found it effective as a cleaner/lubricant/preservative (CLP) and have not, until now, found anything that would shake me from its use.
Enter FireClean. This stuff is amazing as a cleaner/lubricant (CL) and for frequently used firearms, shot often, then cleaned after each use. It is the best stuff I have found and I have given most of the other stuff a try. I use it on my sidearms that I shoot almost daily and the wipe clean and lube makes it ideal. For my long guns, (not suppressed) cleanup in the field is equally as easy.
Hunt AK 's review matches my experience and is an excellent write up.
http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/
I still use BreakFree CLP for external wipe-down and areas of non-moving parts for the preservative function. Just call me a dinosaur.
When did you pick up the SR15?!
My thoughts on using FIREClean for over 2 years now up here in Alaska.
http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/
Thanks for doing the write-up. I'm definitely going to try it out.
Hunt AK 's review matches my experience and is an excellent write up.
http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/
Thanks for the props...
Thanks for doing the write-up. I'm definitely going to try it out.
You won't be sorry! :)
Concerning use in the bore: use while cleaning AND then run a damp one through before storage? Anyone played with FC in the bore?
Concerning use in the bore: use while cleaning AND then run a damp one through before storage? Anyone played with FC in the bore?
Yes, run a soaked patch through the bore at the beginning of the basic cleanup session for all my guns (Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun). Run a 1-3 dry through a the end until they come out pretty clean. Don't think FC dissolves everything (Copper?, Shotgun hull debris?), but never had an issue with shooting a clean gun and following up with a basic cleaning this way.
For a major detail strip and scrubbing (2-3 times a year for me) you'll probably want to use a copper solvent as well. Obviously after major round counts (Class, Competition, Military action, etc.) basic cleaning may not suffice. YMMV.
Noah
In the recent American Rifleman issue an ad for Fireclean said that it has a shelf life of 1 year. Is that accurate?
I saw that as well. Interesting...
Anyone have an idea what is in it that would degrade/evaporate/spoil (?) after the year?
In the recent American Rifleman issue an ad for Fireclean said that it has a shelf life of 1 year. Is that accurate?
walker2713
09-22-13, 14:13
Great thread....thanks for posting......I'm going to check FC out....
George
Failure2Stop
09-22-13, 15:59
In the recent American Rifleman issue an ad for Fireclean said that it has a shelf life of 1 year. Is that accurate?
I actually asked the owners about that.
They told me that it was a worst case estimate before it had been time validated. The expiration has since been removed from the label.
Remember though; everything has a shelf life, from gasoline to ammunition. Over time, chemicals lose effectiveness.
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I actually asked the owners about that.
They told me that it was a worst case estimate before it had been time validated. The expiration has since been removed from the label.
Remember though; everything has a shelf life, from gasoline to ammunition. Over time, chemicals lose effectiveness.
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Thanks Jack, I know I wouldn't go through 2 bottles in 1 year..
I actually asked the owners about that.
They told me that it was a worst case estimate before it had been time validated. The expiration has since been removed from the label.
Remember though; everything has a shelf life, from gasoline to ammunition. Over time, chemicals lose effectiveness.
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If it only dried up and disappeared after a year, I'd be cool with that. As long as it doesn't turn into the freakin' molasses that Froglube did in my rifles. I'll never use that stuff again.
If it only dried up and disappeared after a year, I'd be cool with that. As long as it doesn't turn into the freakin' molasses that Froglube did in my rifles. I'll never use that stuff again.
I took it to mean the stuff still in the bottle wouldn't work after a year.
I took it to mean the stuff still in the bottle wouldn't work after a year.
Ah, sorry. Tracking now. That would be kinda lame, if it turns into weaksauce after a year. But as F2S stated, maybe it's a more delicate chemical composition than some of the more toxic alternatives out there. Right now I'm back with Slip EWL, and at this point it ain't broke, and I'm not sure if I need to fix it. :)
Failure2Stop
09-22-13, 17:27
I took it to mean the stuff still in the bottle wouldn't work after a year.
I don't think that the fear was that it wouldn't work, but that it wouldn't work as well as would be expected of it.
Regardless, they have since revised the "sell by" to be unnecessary.
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I don't think that the fear was that it wouldn't work, but that it wouldn't work as well as would be expected of it.
Regardless, they have since revised the "sell by" to be unnecessary.
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Good point. Wasn't hunt_ak saying that he used the same bottle over a period of 2 years with great results? I'm sure it isn't any cause for concern.
Good point. Wasn't hunt_ak saying that he used the same bottle over a period of 2 years with great results? I'm sure it isn't any cause for concern.
Yes. That tester bottle (that I'm still eating off of) is almost 3 years old now and I haven't seen/noted any differences in the performance/properties of it (smell/feel/etc.) during that time period. I'd say its G2G for at least 3 years!
:D
When did you pick up the SR15?!
My thoughts on using FIREClean for over 2 years now up here in Alaska.
http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/
Nice write up!!
Do you use fireclean in place of both grease and oil on the ar bolt?
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=35490
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/RB1%20Advanced%20Hostage%20Rescue/RB1AHR038_zpsa19a3b14.jpg
About 1.1k on it mostly suppressed - this time after cleaning it at the 5k mark I just cleaned with FIREClean but did not apply a major lube coating.
Also http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/RB1%20Advanced%20Hostage%20Rescue/RB1AHR033_zpse87ee5c0.jpg
Now over 2800 rds with the M&P and have not cleaned it since I got it -- I 100% degreased it and lubed with FIREClean when I got it.
Dave and Ed need to sell shares...
How does wear look on the cam-pin and other stress areas compared to other lubes? Half dozen one or the other, or have you noticed considerably more, or less wear, with the Fireclean?
Looking at the M&P clearly less wear.
Looking at the SR-16's and SR-25's I would say less wear - but one of the SR-16 cam pins is wearing -- due to tolerance stack, I generally don't use cam pins as good wear gauges.
Bolt lugs appear to show significantly less wear on them. My intent is to shoot 30k through the 11.5" suppressed and check it compared to other guns that did not have FIREClean.
Sir, if you need any help with that, I'm just sayin'..I'd be free to help you with that test :)
Looking at the M&P clearly less wear.
Looking at the SR-16's and SR-25's I would say less wear - but one of the SR-16 cam pins is wearing -- due to tolerance stack, I generally don't use cam pins as good wear gauges.
Bolt lugs appear to show significantly less wear on them. My intent is to shoot 30k through the 11.5" suppressed and check it compared to other guns that did not have FIREClean.
What are you comparing it to?
Other guns of the same model not using FC...
A buddy of mine had Rand send me some Rand CLP, as well I have SLIP2000 EWL, Larue MG Lube, FrogLube, and TW-25B on some guns.
I've come to the conclusion that at this time FIREClean is the best Lube/Cleaner for my requirements.
I'd love to be able to fund a test that involved over 50 guns shooting 50k round each, and lube with 5 different lubes to get at least 10 similar weapons with each lube - but until I win the Powerball that is not happening...
Getting towards the end of my deployment, closing the base down, so we have started expending all our excess ammo, earlier tonight myself and three others started an experiment (can't claim credit to it) one M4 lubed with CLP, one with Froglube, mine with EWL, and another with FireClean. We started doing mag dumps, taking breaks when the guns got too hot to handle. Our range time ended before we did a lot, but the CLP gun died at 10 or 11 mags, and the other three are still running fine, with 23, 18 and 24 mags thru them, with the only issues on my gun was due to bad feed lips on mag 11.
Up early in the morning to continue the test.
Ammo is a mixture of M855, M855A1 and about half a mag of the OTM rounds.
Getting towards the end of my deployment, closing the base down, so we have started expending all our excess ammo, earlier tonight myself and three others started an experiment (can't claim credit to it) one M4 lubed with CLP, one with Froglube, mine with EWL, and another with FireClean. We started doing mag dumps, taking breaks when the guns got too hot to handle. Our range time ended before we did a lot, but the CLP gun died at 10 or 11 mags, and the other three are still running fine, with 23, 18 and 24 mags thru them, with the only issues on my gun was due to bad feed lips on mag 11.
Up early in the morning to continue the test.
Ammo is a mixture of M855, M855A1 and about half a mag of the OTM rounds.
Doesn't get much better than this. In for results!
Assuming they all looked similar in the beginning, I'm curious if there is any wear difference (glaring) afterward between the rifles.
Failure2Stop
10-16-13, 14:10
Getting towards the end of my deployment, closing the base down, so we have started expending all our excess ammo, earlier tonight myself and three others started an experiment (can't claim credit to it) one M4 lubed with CLP, one with Froglube, mine with EWL, and another with FireClean. We started doing mag dumps, taking breaks when the guns got too hot to handle. Our range time ended before we did a lot, but the CLP gun died at 10 or 11 mags, and the other three are still running fine, with 23, 18 and 24 mags thru them, with the only issues on my gun was due to bad feed lips on mag 11.
Up early in the morning to continue the test.
Ammo is a mixture of M855, M855A1 and about half a mag of the OTM rounds.
For this to be an accurate comparison each gun needs have previous lubricants thoroughly cleaned off prior to application. Optimally, before and after pics of each gun used, with a few different guns used with each separate product.
It sounds like "Fireclean" is the winner....me, I don't care to heat up anything in order to lube it...
Is slip 2000/ 725 degreaser the thing to use first to get off all of the old lubricants?
Failure2Stop
10-16-13, 22:22
Is slip 2000/ 725 degreaser the thing to use first to get off all of the old lubricants?
I use carbon blast or non-chlorinated brake cleaner after a scrub with something like KG1.
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Getting towards the end of my deployment, closing the base down, so we have started expending all our excess ammo, earlier tonight myself and three others started an experiment (can't claim credit to it) one M4 lubed with CLP, one with Froglube, mine with EWL, and another with FireClean. We started doing mag dumps, taking breaks when the guns got too hot to handle. Our range time ended before we did a lot, but the CLP gun died at 10 or 11 mags, and the other three are still running fine, with 23, 18 and 24 mags thru them, with the only issues on my gun was due to bad feed lips on mag 11.
Up early in the morning to continue the test.
Ammo is a mixture of M855, M855A1 and about half a mag of the OTM rounds.
So jealous! Any more results?
We basically just used each gun that had been using those particular lubes the whole deployment, so as far as I know there was no cross contamination among the lubes.
The Froglube gun wasn't able to come back out to the second day of shooting, shooter had other tasks at hand. I believe the FireClean and EWL guns both ended with around 34 mags a piece, I don't know what sort, if any stoppages occured with the FireClean gun but mine with the EWL was starting to get sluggish around mag 32 and suffered one stuck casing with a blown primer, MK262, at mag 31. Simply ran out of time before getting it to completely choke. Also had one round that jammed the gun up, M855, failed to fire, Mag 33, and once I got it free I saw that the case had some pretty good dents just after the shoulder, I didn't load the magazine so I don't know if the round was like that to begin with.
Once I get some info from the FireClean shooter I'll further update this. We did take some before pictures, and will take some after pictures to compare.
I also learned that its important to put loctite on my thorntail flashlight mount, twice over the course of fire it worked itself loose so that the flashlight was sliding around in the ring.
BuzzinSATX
10-17-13, 07:29
Rero, just so I'm clear....you guys lubed the guns at the beginning of your test but didn't reapply any additional lube once you began shooting?
Also, thanks much for your service! Stay safe out there.
Buzz
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...earlier tonight myself and three others started an experiment (can't claim credit to it) one M4 lubed with CLP, one with Froglube, mine with EWL, and another with FireClean.....the CLP gun died at 10 or 11 mags....
So this is Rand CLP, correct? I've been considering ordering some, but this might change my mind.
That is correct, one individual lubed each gun as close to the same amount as possible and no more lube was added once the shooting started.
Unknown in regards to the CLP, just whatever the Army issued stuff.
So this is Rand CLP, correct? I've been considering ordering some, but this might change my mind.
That is correct, one individual lubed each gun as close to the same amount as possible and no more lube was added once the shooting started.
Unknown in regards to the CLP, just whatever the Army issued stuff.
No, Rand CLP is a pretty new product and definitely now what that Army uses. He's talking about just regular CLP. Honestly I have no idea what the commercial variant would be but it's as basic as it gets.
No, Rand CLP is a pretty new product and definitely now what that Army uses. He's talking about just regular CLP. Honestly I have no idea what the commercial variant would be but it's as basic as it gets.
Royco, I believe. Not sure if they sell to civilian, it used to be Break Free, then Safariland or something.
No, Rand CLP is a pretty new product and definitely now what that Army uses. He's talking about just regular CLP. Honestly I have no idea what the commercial variant would be but it's as basic as it gets.
Good to know-thanks. I didn't want to jump to any conclusions without being sure. It seems good torture test and reviews of Rand CLP are pretty hard to find.
Good to know-thanks. I didn't want to jump to any conclusions without being sure. It seems good torture test and reviews of Rand CLP are pretty hard to find.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWG8ZFR7CAc
Looks like they are using the older formula of Rand, regardless, this looks rather impartial to me.
Well, I treated 1 M4. It felt pretty crappy compared to Froglube that was on the gun before I removed it with Froglube cleaner**** and acetone before applying the Fireclean, VERY gritty. Meh. Anyway, I just took that same M4 out and cycled it a few times (half a day later). Very very different feel to it, different sound to it, everything. It feels a LOT! slicker, and there is no grater/gritty sound from the buffer spring/tube. All it did was sit in the closet, and I coated the hell out of it initially. It's not like anything migrated to a dry area. Was soaked to begin with. I'm not sure what occurred, but time seems like a legitimate factor in how well the weapon felt. I have not shot it yet, just hand-cycled before putting it away, and hand-cycled again just now. I just went and cycled it again. I remember thinking "Wow, this feels like crap compared to my other rifle with less rounds through it using *Brand X* lubricant". Now, I felt them side by side cycling (all they did was sit in the closet, nothing fouled anything), and I cannot tell a difference between the two. I don't understand it, but it is what it is. After sitting for 12 hours, FireClean feels radically different on the gun. Weird. I want to call bullshit on "conditioning", but it's really hard to after feeling the difference 12 hours can make. I still don't understand it, but I'm holding it, so it is what it is.
**** (horrible stuff, DO NOT BUY THIS. When I got it, I sprayed some and it was nice. In 2 months, it has gone rancid and smells like shit. I mean, it's bad. Think laundry that you forgot in the washer for a week. Fetid musty odor. I felt guilty spraying it in the side even though I live alone. Foul. Sorry, but that's just rancid)
*I am re-evaluating FireClean. Initially, I shied away from it due to poor performance compared to other lubricants when any salt was present, or the metal part was in contact with a wet object. However, in the 100% humidity test I performed, it did very well, and I have not seen people shooting corrosive ammo having any more issues with with than any other product, and it does seem to offer some benefits regarding fouling, and burn-off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWG8ZFR7CAc
Looks like they are using the older formula of Rand, regardless, this looks rather impartial to me.
I completely forgot that I watched that a few weeks ago. I would agree with this being a pretty impartial comparison. Seems like they really concentrate on the ease of cleaning the bolt tail which is certainly beneficial, but I'm really looking to see a Rand CLP treated weapon with some serious rounds cranked through it. They just do two mags each which isn't all that many rounds.
The idea of a CLP like Rand that does not recommend against tossing a regular petrol based lube in the mix if necessary is very appealing. I guess I'll just have to try some and see for myself.
Sounds like you may have compared the two(Rand CLP/Fireclean). What did you think?
I completely forgot that I watched that a few weeks ago. I would agree with this being a pretty impartial comparison. Seems like they really concentrate on the ease of cleaning the bolt tail which is certainly beneficial, but I'm really looking to see a Rand CLP treated weapon with some serious rounds cranked through it. They just do two mags each which isn't all that many rounds.
The idea of a CLP like Rand that does not recommend against tossing a regular petrol based lube in the mix if necessary is very appealing. I guess I'll just have to try some and see for myself.
Sounds like you may have compared the two(Rand CLP/Fireclean). What did you think?
I have not shot them enough to form an honest opinion, although the Rand is better at low temperatures and corrosion prevention in my "kitchen testing", I have yet to hear of corrosion or frozen weapons from either of them in actual use.
I did just buy an M&P22 pistol and SWR Spectre II suppressor. It's a filthy creature. I have cleaned it and lubed it with FireClean. I want to shoot it until it jams. With Rand CLP, it didn't have any issues in the short amount of time I shot it, but it was getting a bit gritty feeling after only 100 rounds. With the price and filth of .22 ammunition, I think this test might actually work out where I can test a platform to failure.
I think Fire Clean might need a cleaner surface to really get in there than what I originally thought.
My first uses on rifles that had other lubes went basically like stripping it down, scrubbed and wiped down twice with Mpro7 cleaner, hose down with brake cleaner, put on 2 coats of Fire Clean over 2 days. It stayed shiny, so I thought I was fine.
Later on a extremely dirty suppressed gun, I went OCD, parts washer, ultrasonic cleaner, 99,9% IPA bath, multiple times over 3 days. It took 4 coats over 4 days to maintain the shine.
After seeing this, I took one of my original Fire Clean coated BCGs and tried the OCD cleaning. It took 4 coats as well, unlike the original 2 coats.
The only thing I could figure was that my original cleaning probably wasn't thorough enough. Like the pores of the metal really weren't clean.
I didn't have any problems at that time or since with it. But it's an interesting thing to find.
I think Fire Clean might need a cleaner surface to really get in there than what I originally thought.
My first uses on rifles that had other lubes went basically like stripping it down, scrubbed and wiped down twice with Mpro7 cleaner, hose down with brake cleaner, put on 2 coats of Fire Clean over 2 days. It stayed shiny, so I thought I was fine.
Later on a extremely dirty suppressed gun, I went OCD, parts washer, ultrasonic cleaner, 99,9% IPA bath, multiple times over 3 days. It took 4 coats over 4 days to maintain the shine.
After seeing this, I took one of my original Fire Clean coated BCGs and tried the OCD cleaning. It took 4 coats as well, unlike the original 2 coats.
The only thing I could figure was that my original cleaning probably wasn't thorough enough. Like the pores of the metal really weren't clean.
I didn't have any problems at that time or since with it. But it's an interesting thing to find.
Like I said, I thought "conditioning" was total bullshit, but when my rifle felt completely different, sounded completely different, and didn't smell nearly as much of burn't anodizing when rapidly hand-cycled after just sitting for 12 hours...I'm not so sure. There may be something to it. I cannot argue with tangible results.
I don't know if conditioning is BS or not. I'm really just guessing on the reason for the results I had. OCD cleaning did take more coats for sure. I had no issues with applying it the way I did originally, so it maybe overkill? I dunno?
Failure2Stop
10-17-13, 14:02
I don't know if conditioning is BS or not. I'm really just guessing on the reason for the results I had. OCD cleaning did take more coats for sure. I had no issues with applying it the way I did originally, so it maybe overkill? I dunno?
There are some interesting theories on why this is so, but I'm a knuckle-dragger at heart, not a chemist, so I pretty much only trust what I see unless someone educates me that what I thought was right is not.
Do you coat the chamber & bore with fireclean? If so, what do you use after the coating to get copper fouling out of the bore?
I've tried using it in the chamber and bore without ill effects like some oils do. I'm not convinced yet that it's ok for precision barrels, but that could change, I dunno yet?
Some combo's get a carbon ring that you'll have to get out for precision, some don't.
I don't get rid of the copper fouling until groups open up. Some barrels don't tolerate copper fouling switching between different bullets, like SMKs and TSXs, others do.
That's something most will need to try for themselves.
If I've got a cleaned, oiled up gun and want to switch to fireclean, but don't have an ultrasonic cleaner or degreaser, would it be better to wipe it down and try to work fireclean in as soon as possible or fire a few hundred rounds and then clean and lube with fireclean?
Related, my understanding is that fireclean will eventually rid the gun of existing lubricant, so completely drying it out isn't necessary (although most effective). Is that accurate, or do I really need to get a degreaser and completely clean it of existing chemicals?
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I dunno how it will react with existing lubes. At minimum, I'd hose everything off with brake cleaner first.
The OCD cleaning I tried may not be beneficial? I really don't know? All I can say is after extensive cleaning, it took more coats to maintain the sheen after a day sitting there.
Do you use a light coat all over as a preservative, too, or still rub down the outside with a normal oily rag?
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Well, here's an environmental test. Rand CLP and Fireclean and an unprotected nail sit yonder...
http://i43.tinypic.com/2hcj01u.jpg
I used it on the bolt tail to see how it would remove the carbon. I was not impressed. I was using a paper towel and working the towel and Fireclean around the tail. Very little carbon came off on the towel. I then tried some Breakfree CLP and it was much more effective. Granted, I did not initially coat the bolt or other parts of the gun before using the Fireclean and maybe if coated first it would prevent carbon buildup. But as far as a cleaner/solvent is concerned, Breakfree CLP gave me much better results.
I used it on the bolt tail to see how it would remove the carbon. I was not impressed. I was using a paper towel and working the towel and Fireclean around the tail. Very little carbon came off on the towel. I then tried some Breakfree CLP and it was much more effective. Granted, I did not initially coat the bolt or other parts of the gun before using the Fireclean and maybe if coated first it would prevent carbon buildup. But as far as a cleaner/solvent is concerned, Breakfree CLP gave me much better results.
I've mainly found that it does great on soft carbon. Like that on and in the rest of the bcg, or my suppressed .22 pistol. It keeps that pistol from getting gritty feeling when cycled. I was not impressed with how it did on supressor baffles in the .22 can, or bolt tails, but it truly is superior to anything I've tried on keeping the action slick.
Failure2Stop
11-02-13, 20:32
I used it on the bolt tail to see how it would remove the carbon. I was not impressed. I was using a paper towel and working the towel and Fireclean around the tail. Very little carbon came off on the towel. I then tried some Breakfree CLP and it was much more effective. Granted, I did not initially coat the bolt or other parts of the gun before using the Fireclean and maybe if coated first it would prevent carbon buildup. But as far as a cleaner/solvent is concerned, Breakfree CLP gave me much better results.
That's like complaining that your anti lock breaks didn't help when you stomped on them after hitting the tree.
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I don't think it's meant to dissolve existing carbon, it might, but I really don't know. I think the base layer helps keep carbon from initially bonding to surfaces as bad to untreated surfaces. The carbon soot wipes off pretty good on treated surfaces with a rag oiled with it pretty well. The carbon on the tail of the bolt and inside the carrier is self limiting anyway. If you have a corrosion concern under the carbon in those areas, OCD cleaning in a bath of MPro-7 in a ultrasonic cleaner followed by a 99%IPA solution for a while, with a protective film of oil that follows.
That's like complaining that your anti lock breaks didn't help when you stomped on them after hitting the tree.
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Not according to their claims of intensive carbon removal.
The bottle does say it works as an all-in-one cleaner, lube, etc. My 2 were already clean, however. Had one area on one of them that I missed pretty badly, though, and the Fireclean seemed to do at least a decent job (didn't try any other cleaners for comparison, though). Both cycle the smoothest they ever have.
While I didn't do more than thoroughly wipe each rifle down before application, we'll see how they do next time I get to the range. One's a .22 and gets particularly dirty--I'm really hoping it lives up to even half the hype in this thread.
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elephantrider
11-03-13, 01:50
I used it on the bolt tail to see how it would remove the carbon. I was not impressed. I was using a paper towel and working the towel and Fireclean around the tail. Very little carbon came off on the towel. I then tried some Breakfree CLP and it was much more effective. Granted, I did not initially coat the bolt or other parts of the gun before using the Fireclean and maybe if coated first it would prevent carbon buildup. But as far as a cleaner/solvent is concerned, Breakfree CLP gave me much better results.
You need to give the Fireclean time to work in a case like that. Saturate the carbon build-up area and let it sit for a while. Eventually the Fireclean will break the caked on carbon up. Even when I clean my BCG really well before an initial application of Fireclean, there will be residual carbon that comes loose a few days to a week later. That is the Fireclean working its' way into the metal and loosening the residual carbon at the same time. I believe they even say to expect this in the instructions.
You need to give the Fireclean time to work in a case like that. Saturate the carbon build-up area and let it sit for a while. Eventually the Fireclean will break the caked on carbon up. Even when I clean my BCG really well before an initial application of Fireclean, there will be residual carbon that comes loose a few days to a week later. That is the Fireclean working its' way into the metal and loosening the residual carbon at the same time. I believe they even say to expect this in the instructions.
THIS...
If anyone think CLP works better are carbon disolving then they are either smoking something restricted - or having some seriously off results (or both).
Like I posted earlier in this thread, I put a 2oz bottle of Fireclean in a pill bottle....just enough to submerge an entire AR bolt in. You can let it sit overnight if you don't feel like using a little elbow grease, but I haven't done this yet. May have to try next time out shooting.
BoringGuy45
11-05-13, 20:57
I decided to switch from Froglube to Fireclean on my M&P45. I put the gun in my ultrasonic cleaner before putting on the FC. Does anyone know if that's enough, or do I need to use a degreaser first and re-lube it for it to protect and lube properly?
Well, here's an environmental test. Rand CLP and Fireclean and an unprotected nail sit yonder...
http://i43.tinypic.com/2hcj01u.jpg
It rained on and off until this photo was taken, sometimes sprinkles, sometimes monsoon deluges.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2rd9gs5.jpg
The "clean" nails on top are replications of said test for long-term, and are still there. Only the control shows rust on them, we have not had another downpour. FWIW, both seem to be equally covered in dust and grit.
Larry Vickers
11-06-13, 02:37
The number one problem all of us have ( WASP males are the world's worst - myself included ) is to follow instructions - the first time I used Fireclean I was underwhelmed with the results because I didn't follow the instructions
You have to get the metal clean then apply - once you do that it works great. Allow Fireclean to treat the surface of the metal without a bunch of crap on top
It's the same idea as stripping wallpaper off a wall and clean and prep the surface before you paint - the results are night and day
The number one problem all of us have ( WASP males are the world's worst - myself included ) is to follow instructions - the first time I used Fireclean I was underwhelmed with the results because I didn't follow the instructions
You have to get the metal clean then apply - once you do that it works great. Allow Fireclean to treat the surface of the metal without a bunch of crap on top
It's the same idea as stripping wallpaper off a wall and clean and prep the surface before you paint - the results are night and day
Not that other people and FIREClean themselves aren't to be trusted, but it's still nice to hear it from someone like yourself, that this really matters and makes a difference.
My first experience was so-so with it, but I also ONLY cleaned with gun-scrubber, and as we know, that can certainly leave a lot of carbon on the parts, just washing away the "easy" stuff.
Anyway, thanks for affirming that this actually matters. What is your method for getting it 100% clean?
Larry Vickers
11-06-13, 07:12
Well first off as everybody is correct over time the Fireclean dissolves away the carbon
For your initial Fireclean prep 'cleaning' try MPro7 cleaner and then begin your Fireclean application
in a pill bottle....just enough to submerge an entire AR bolt in.
Hell, now I feel dumber than usual...I've got at least 4 empties in the kitchen junk drawer. NEVER occurred to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFAZlc0qdGc
I'm pretty sure I'm getting better results with my OCD cleaning, then many coats over some days to get it really soaked in. I've also stuck a bolt in the corner of a heavy freezer bag and left it soaking for a week. The stuff works pretty good, but it seems you got to get it really clean and really soaked in to get the best results.
If Fireclean is a cleaner why would there be a need to pre-clean with a degreaser before applying it.?
Why can't you simply clean off whatever you've been using with Fireclean and lube with it too?
Or, am I overlooking something?
Thanks!
For best results, you have to clean off any oil/grease before applying FireClean. That oil is bonding to the metal substrate and prevents FireClean from bonding to it. FireClean is not a degreaser, so it won't displace whatever is on the surface. FireClean works best when applied on a clean, degreased surface. That doesn't mean it won't work otherwise; it simply does better without anything else interfering with it bonding to the metal.
elephantrider
11-08-13, 16:39
If Fireclean is a cleaner why would there be a need to pre-clean with a degreaser before applying it.?
Why can't you simply clean off whatever you've been using with Fireclean and lube with it too?
Or, am I overlooking something?
Thanks!
According to the folks at Fireclean it is "incompatible," with other lubricants. I would take this to mean that when mixed some other lubricants or oils it looses or lessens it's ability to lubricate and penetrate down to the metal surface. Let's keep in mind that there is a myriad of other oils and lubricants on the market so who knows one product is going to interact with every other product on the market. Fireclean is also not a degreaser, and I don't know of any lubricant that is, so it will not remove existing lube/oils.
As long as your BCG was relatively free of other oils or lubes, then you could probably just apply it and go. The thing to remember is that the key to Fireclean working well is for it to get down to the metal surface. Cleaning the BCG fairly well (rubbing alcohol at a minimum) will get you to that point fairly quickly. Applying FC to a carbon covered BCG will take longer as it takes time for the FC to get through the carbon and down to the metal surfaces. It will eventually get there, but might take some soaking, or multiple applications.
I really don't know why?
Just adding it to a fouled rifle that was lubed initially with something different did nothing special at all.
Half ass wipe down cleaning, then applying it wasn't so great either.
Pretty clean, then apply it a couple times over a couple days until it kept a sheen worked pretty well.
When I went overboard OCD on the cleaning. Parts washer, hand clean, brake clean, all multiple times. Then ultrasonic clean it in Mpro7 for longer than needed, quick ultra sonic rinse in deionized water (you can tell there's a film of something coming off in the water). Shake off excess water and drop parts directly in 99.9% IPA, let it soak for a while. Dry everything out really good. Then apply coats until the shine stays, or soak them to get it on there. I'm pretty sure that gives the best results initially.
What would interest me the most is just doing the pretty clean, not OCD method. Keep using the oil as CLP, and see if the results improve over time. That OCD cleaning is nuts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFAZlc0qdGc
What is the bolt material and finish coating?
Failure2Stop
11-08-13, 18:54
I'm pretty sure I'm getting better results with my OCD cleaning, then many coats over some days to get it really soaked in. I've also stuck a bolt in the corner of a heavy freezer bag and left it soaking for a week. The stuff works pretty good, but it seems you got to get it really clean and really soaked in to get the best results.
The longer I use it, the better it works. I could make some assumptions, which I am very hesitant to do without hard data, but it seems that the heating and cooling cycles bolstered by reapplication during cleaning and lubricating is where the stuff is giving the performance that I am seeing. During my initial use (put on a wiped off bolt) I was happy, but not overwhelmed. Once I was using it on a thoroughly degreased gun exclusively, the carbon that was present was easier to remove and less was needed to maintain sufficient lubrication during extended suppressed firing sessions.
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
I've never seen so much hype over a lube in all my internet life.
I bought a bottle... treated a brand new unfired build. I'd already lubed everything up with my normal oil... but that might very well have helped when I sprayed eveything down with brake cleaner- probably diluted what gummy steel preservative was left in the parkerize, allowing it to strip cleaner when I hosed it off.
Will hopefully get to the range in the next few days and see what happens. If I'm impressed at all, I'll be pretty impressed... but if the hype is only half true, perhaps I will have to concede that a proprietary mix can be worth $8 an ounce.
Not holding my breath!
^you should follow proper application instructions... If you go through the entire thread, most folks converted to it followed instructions and those that didnt, got marginal results. I have yet to try it but if youre giving it a go, you ought to atleast give it a real chance to work.
^you should follow proper application instructions... If you go through the entire thread, most folks converted to it followed instructions and those that didnt, got marginal results. I have yet to try it but if youre giving it a go, you ought to atleast give it a real chance to work.
I followed the directions.
Is Fireclean supposed to be used in the barrel?
Is Fireclean supposed to be used in the barrel?
There is no prohibition indicated in the directions.
Given that they indicate other products should not be used with Fireclean, I would surmise they would suggest you use it in the bore also.
Also, I think it was developed to keep suppressors clean (think I remember hearing that). Could be wrong, but that would indicate it's supposed to go inside the suppressor (and by extension, the barrel).
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
I've tried it on a TiRant .45. It smoked pretty good through the first magazine. Besides the smoke, I'd say it worked pretty good. I probably had it wetter than it needed to be. Cleaned up pretty good afterwards.
plouffedaddy
11-11-13, 07:54
I can't take it anymore……. :stop:
I've got a bottle on the way :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5088_zpsda06b4a7.jpg
3000rds suppressed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5078_zps1a635cee.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5077_zps721ac883.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5064_zps43291e95.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5063_zps588378c7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5062_zps443f8865.jpg
Carbon still moist and simply wipes off...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5061_zpsab862c9e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5060_zps8a2bda79.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5050_zps5da11814.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v193/EvilKev/IMG_5054_zpsab159eae.jpg
What material or coating is the bolt?
Looks like a hard chrome sand cut carrier.
I've made a few of those from Colt carriers, bitch to make, but rocks with high round count suppressed.
With Kevin's pics, I'm more interested in that 5.56 QDC/CQB can. The form 3 is going on my 762 QDC/CQB (it's #3 on the first run), don't know the status of the forms on the 762 QDC, 556 QDC, or the 556 QDC/CQB. I'm not a fan of current NFA waiting times.
I bought a bottle of fireclean after using slip 2k ewl for a couple years. I wanted to see what the hype was about. I now have 3 bottles of fireclean and I'm finding people to give my EWL to. Clean up post-suppressed sbr shooting is a paper towel followed by reapplication of fireclean.
I was given a sample bottle of FC a few months ago. i've used it on a school M4 that has about 6000 rds thru it. i could not get over how easy the weapon cleaned up after the test. i've also run it on a few mp5's and pistols to the tune of a few thousand rounds on each and again clean up was minimal. Just to give you an idea how much i like the product i just purchased 12 bottles of it for my team.
I just got a bottle and it seems to be pretty runny, at least compared to the synthetic 10W30 I was using which stayed in place, this is already dripping out from everywhere. We'll see.
Fireclean is a bit runny but it impregnates the metal to treat it. I've been running it since shortly after they came out and love it.
Thoroughly wipe everything down with a dry cloth to get all old lube off. Then saturate the parts by either a patch or just put it on the part strait and use your finger to spread it all over.
If you have time, let it set overnight or 24 hours I think is recommended. Wipe off excess and reassemble. You will see a layer of film on the metal. If you put your finger on it, it will show your print and it will have a wet sheen. When you cycle the action it will be as smooth as glass.
The more you shoot, clean, reapply the better it will treat and the easier to clean.
PS: I am in NO way affiliated with Fireclean. I was just skeptical, started running it, and swear by it now!!!
Would using something like SLiP 725 cleaner/degreaser or there Carbon cleaner first and then apply Fire Clean? be G2G?
Would using something like SLiP 725 cleaner/degreaser or there Carbon cleaner first and then apply Fire Clean? be G2G?
http://www.cleanergun.com/directions.html
Ideally you want to degrease the gun/parts first.
I am going through & treating all of may guns with fire clean as they need cleaning. I start with my old method of cleaning with hoppes in the barrel, then slip 2000. Then after drying off everything I spray with non chlorinated break cleaner making sure everything is degreased. Then fire clean is applied & allowed to soak for several days. I've shot my sig 226 twice now & cleaned it twice with about 200 rounds shot in each session. Everything is very slick, but I'm still a little paranoid about galling the slide after using grease for years per this thread:
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
Does anyone apply grease over the fire clean on their pistol slides or on their ar bcgs? Are you cleaning the barrel with just fire clean?
I was worried too at first and took baby steps in pushing it farther.
But to answer your question, no. I only use fireclean.
I know its not that much of a test, but I have run it for 2-3 months and 3-4 thousand round estimate with 0 problems.
Edit: my main usage as described above is in a sig 229, colt 14.5" carbine, sig blaser, and glock 32.
And when I get switched to the sig 516 10.5", ill be treating it too.
I did the OCD cleaning and multiple applications of FC until there was no doubt the FC was in there good on a 100% suppressed Colt SMG and a dozen Metalform mags. Everyone knows how dirty these can be. Ran 1000 rounds, at the end, I was surprised that it wasn't really gritty pulling the charging handle. Opening up the gun, it looked filthy as expected. Most things wiped out pretty easy, the few tougher places I added extra FC, let it soak shortly and wiped it out. I have never cleaned this out this fast ever, it's a dirty gun by nature.
Edit. Forgot to add that the FC treated 3 lug parts cleaned up very well. Worked much better than grease.
tom12.7, Did you clean the barrel & chamber with just fireclean?
On this gun, yes. I'm still not convinced on precision barrels yet, but I dunno? I don't clean copper till precision goes away, or swapping between conventional and TSX bullets on some guns.
Slightly off topic, but since there were so many fireclean experiences shared here someone is bound to know. Is FC ideal for use on the Benelli m4 operating system? I'm about to get one and would like to use FC from the gate if it's the best lube for this particular weapon and it's internals.
Failure2Stop
11-26-13, 16:49
Slightly off topic, but since there were so many fireclean experiences shared here someone is bound to know. Is FC ideal for use on the Benelli m4 operating system? I'm about to get one and would like to use FC from the gate if it's the best lube for this particular weapon and it's internals.
Considering that we would just use CLP and they ran decently, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.
jaybirdritenour2
11-26-13, 17:18
Slightly off topic, but since there were so many fireclean experiences shared here someone is bound to know. Is FC ideal for use on the Benelli m4 operating system? I'm about to get one and would like to use FC from the gate if it's the best lube for this particular weapon and it's internals.
I watched a video on youtube from a competition Benelli team member I believe that said there was certain shells that gave problems loading in his Benelli but with Fireclean they ran perfect. I will see if I can find the video.
Found video but it isnt a benelli team member and also posted by Fireclean but here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptTONkq6fFM
I watched a video on youtube from a competition Benelli team member I believe that said there was certain shells that gave problems loading in his Benelli but with Fireclean they ran perfect. I will see if I can find the video.
Thank you, Sir! I'd really be curious to see the vid.
This is pretty interesting. I'm also just as concerned about my health. I can't sem to find a MSDS of this FC product on their web site. Says it is non-toxic, ummm, prove it. I currently use M-Pro7 cleaner (non-toxic), and Ballistol (non-toxic + biodegradable) coat the BCG, then grease the BCG rails with a bit of Libriplate SFL-0 (non-toxic + food grade rated).
I stopped reading/caring about Eezox as soon as got to the Trichloroethylene main ingredient in their MSDS, no thanks, toxic as hell. Don't get me started, I worked in a ski manufacturing plant as a teenager, and I swam in it for a summer.
So, priority one for me is my health as seen in my current panel of products I use. Someone please link me to a MSDS. I'm interested if it is safe.
" I stopped reading/caring about Eezox as soon as got to the Trichloroethylene"
Is that why it stinks?
jaybirdritenour2
11-27-13, 17:42
Thank you, Sir! I'd really be curious to see the vid.
I linked it in the post but he isn't a benelli member and the video was posted by Fireclean.
I linked it in the post but he isn't a benelli member and the video was posted by Fireclean.
Yes, and thank you for posting it. Much appreciated. I'm no expert, but that guy in the vid seemed pretty credible to me. I'm going to give it a try when I get my Benelli next week. FC might be an ideal choice for that platform.
This is pretty interesting. I'm also just as concerned about my health. I can't sem to find a MSDS of this FC product on their web site. Says it is non-toxic, ummm, prove it. Seriously...how? I mean, the FDA is yanking "proven" drugs every day for causing all sorts of life-ending problems, and you want someone to "prove" that a firearm CLP really, truly, 100% is non-toxic? Will you just settle for "less toxic than the firing residue suspended in it"? Sounds reasonable... I currently use M-Pro7 cleaner (non-toxic), and Ballistol (non-toxic + biodegradable) coat the BCG, then grease the BCG rails with a bit of Libriplate SFL-0 (non-toxic + food grade rated).
I stopped reading/caring about Eezox as soon as got to the Trichloroethylene main ingredient in their MSDS, no thanks, toxic as hell. Don't get me started, I worked in a ski manufacturing plant as a teenager, and I swam in it for a summer. What did it do to you?
So, priority one for me is my health as seen in my current panel of products I use. Someone please link me to a MSDS. I looked and could not find an MSDS, but I know that people out there know what's in it who are friends with those who invented it. If it were harmful, I bet we would either know about it, or it wouldn't be knowable for years to come, much like those FDA yanked drugs I mentioned earlier. I'm interested if it is safe.
I feel that it must be safer than the junk suspended in it (firing residue), which contains glass, mercury, lead, and carcinogens, as I understand it.
Does FC also work as a protectant against rust? Also, are people getting good results in the bore of the barrels themselves?
Well, if it's non-hazardous as determined by the manufacturer under OSHA Regulations, an MSDS is NOT required....period....
P.S. MDSD is changing to SDS with the oncoming GHS implementation....
Again any one using FC in the bore itself with any significant advantage? Any rust protecting qualities?
I have been treating the bore with it, then running a dry patch thru the bore. I treated a sig 226 with fire cleane. After shooting 200 rounds, I cleaned the barrel with just fire clean, and it seemed to not come clean as easily as the old method with hoppes.
I'm still using Eezox on exterior steel parts that might rust.
http://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-Premium-Gun-Care/dp/B002XW24MK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386630230&sr=8-1&keywords=eezox
I haven't cleaned with it yet, but it strikes me that this stuff is WAY more of a treatment/lubricant than a cleaner. It also does not strike me as much of a rust-inhibitor, beyond what just about any light oil will achieve, except that this stuff seems to stay in the metal and not vaporize off as quickly as some. I wish I had an old parkerized barrel I could treat with a few different products in different spots and leave the thing lying out in my Pacific Northwest lawn.
As to the bore question - what is your concern? Do you have a non-lined chromoly barrel? Are you wondering about pre-treating for ease of cleaning, or using it as a rust inhibitor for storage, etc? I can't answer the pre-treat question, but I think for storage, there are better options.
Wondering if cleaning the bore becomes easier too?
Wondering if cleaning the bore becomes easier too?
Yes indeed. I even use it on my cowboy guns shooting super soft lead bullets. Haven't had any leading, even in the forcing cones, since I started using fire clean. Bores wipe out with a swipe or two.
I've got a brand spanking new build, never fired. Gonna clean it off with Brake cleaner and start FC from scratch...
I've got a brand spanking new build, never fired. Gonna clean it off with Brake cleaner and start FC from scratch...
I just helped a friend do this with his new 6920.
I haven't cleaned with it yet, but it strikes me that this stuff is WAY more of a treatment/lubricant than a cleaner. It also does not strike me as much of a rust-inhibitor, beyond what just about any light oil will achieve, except that this stuff seems to stay in the metal and not vaporize off as quickly as some. I wish I had an old parkerized barrel I could treat with a few different products in different spots and leave the thing lying out in my Pacific Northwest lawn.
As to the bore question - what is your concern? Do you have a non-lined chromoly barrel? Are you wondering about pre-treating for ease of cleaning, or using it as a rust inhibitor for storage, etc? I can't answer the pre-treat question, but I think for storage, there are better options.
I tested FIREClean out in the elements, and found that it did quite well preventing rust:
http://youtu.be/otlLkMUyQag
This is a little off topic, since the test does not include fire clean, but can be compared to what WS6 just posted.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/corrosion-protection-products/
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