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RNGRPOPO
04-11-08, 07:59
I have purchased a new press and want to start reloading .223 for my AR. Any suggestions on powder/ primer combinations. Any info will be well appreciated.

tjcoker
04-11-08, 09:49
Win 748, WLP, Processed Brass from Scharch, and the Hornady 55gr FMJ bullets work great for me. I have yet to have one not function properly. Been loading on a 550B for the past year. I use a Lee FCD since I load these for my AR.

Kurt Reifert
04-11-08, 12:55
Already a few threads on this, but Ramshot TAC is a very popular choice for .223.
It's less expensive than most of the other good choices and it's claen and produces very accurate loads.

I use 24.5 grains with a 55 grain fmj bullet and Rem 7 1/2 primers for general purpose and bump it up to 25 grains with a 52 grain Sierra Match KIng.

Other popular powders are the previously mentioned Win 748, Reloader 15, Accurate 2460 and Hornady BLC2, 335, Varget, IMR 4895 ans Vhita Vuori N133.

I've tried many of the powders listed above and TAC gets my vote so far.

davechng
04-11-08, 14:54
I've use IMR4895 on 5.56 Lake city brass and found that it filled way up and getting almost a compress load! USe the Winchester W748 ball powder and it loads and measure much better.

USe that on both 55 grain FMJ and 62 grain M855 bullets!

Using CCI Military small rifle primers or WInchester Small rifle primers! both works great .


I reload using a Lee turret press with the RCBS electronic powder dropper. the loading and all that is fast! it is the hassle of trimming the brass , cleaning it and somtimes priming can get into some issues becasue a lot of the military brass do have a primer crimp on it! so !have to clean up the burrs in the primer pocket.
'

DaveC

Kurt Reifert
04-11-08, 16:00
TAC is about $3-4 per pound cheaper than W748 and you'll use less of it.
It's a ball powder so it meters perfectly and it's cleaner.
Reloading is about saving money and making more accurate rounds than you can buy.
TAC gives you both.

davechng
04-11-08, 16:30
Kool! I will give RAmshot TAC a try!

DaveC

WRMorrison
04-11-08, 17:09
I'll throw my two cents in...

Brass: your preference. I prefer lake city brass for my match rifle, and everything else for my SHTF rifle
Powder: TAC is an excellent choice, I use 23.0gr. I use Varget for my match loads. TAC meters extremely well, and is cheaper.
Primers: your preference. I like to use Federal Gold Medal Match 205M for my match loads and anything else (whatever is cheapest) for SHTF loads. I've heard of people getting good results with Wolf Russian primers, so I may try those eventually.
Projos: your preference. If you're just plinking, I've had good results with these 55gr FMJ-BT's(and the prices include shipping): https://secure3.mooseweb.com/montanagoldbullet.com/pricelist.tpl

As far as presses go, you'll get a million different answers. I'll never be without my trusty Dillon 550. For dies, I use RCBS extensively with the exception of a Redding competition seater die for my match loads. Make sure and pick up a small base full-length sizer for at least the first sizing of brass to make sure you have no problems with extraction in a semi-auto.

-WRM

Blitzking
04-12-08, 19:38
Lake city brass,CCI BR primer,24 grains of AA 2230, 62 grain SS109, eats a 2inch hole @200 yards.
This with a cheapo Model one sales 1 in 8 Bull barrel

Redhat
04-12-08, 21:59
Dont' for get H335

I am also interested in TAC...where do you get load data for it?

PALADIN-hgwt
04-12-08, 23:23
xxxxx

Redhat
04-13-08, 08:34
thanks!

markm
04-14-08, 08:36
I use 24.5 grains with a 55 grain fmj bullet and Rem 7 1/2 primers for general purpose


I ran this load in a class this weekend with my 11.5 inch upper. I was the only SBR in the class, and out shot everyone with this load on both days. :cool:

Bullets were Hornady bulk 55 grainers.

I won a couple of boxes of Federal bonded ammo for my effort. :D

Kurt Reifert
04-15-08, 06:59
I use Hornady 55 gr myself. They group better than any other 55 gr FMJ I've tried.

RNGRPOPO
04-30-08, 20:39
Thanks everyone for the load info. I am waiting for my dies to come in so I have been busy preparing brass to get started. I have been having a little trouble finding TAC powder. Any Suggestions???

Ridgerunner665
04-30-08, 21:05
My loads are hunting loads (deer...and yes its legal here).

I have found Reloder 15 to be the best (most accurate, consistent, clean) for my uses.

26 grains pf Reloder 15
Winchester brass
Fed. 205M primers
Barnes 62 grain TSX bullet
OAL 2.26 (or mag length...each rifle has a sweet spot here)
10 shot, 100 yard group measured 1.25 inches.

2,900 fps

That same load at an OAL of 2.27 will do 1 inch at 100 yards 2990 fps...but thats pushing the limits of reliability...almost too long for the mags.

Compressed maximum charge...start at 24 grains and work up

markm
05-01-08, 08:16
I have been having a little trouble finding TAC powder. Any Suggestions???

Did you try Powder Valley?

toddackerman
05-04-08, 08:20
Already a few threads on this, but Ramshot TAC is a very popular choice for .223.
It's less expensive than most of the other good choices and it's claen and produces very accurate loads.

I use 24.5 grains with a 55 grain fmj bullet and Rem 7 1/2 primers for general purpose and bump it up to 25 grains with a 52 grain Sierra Match KIng.

Other popular powders are the previously mentioned Win 748, Reloader 15, Accurate 2460 and Hornady BLC2, 335, Varget, IMR 4895 ans Vhita Vuori N133.

I've tried many of the powders listed above and TAC gets my vote so far.

I agree about using Ram Shot TAC powder. Much cleaner than WW748, and about 10% less expensive because you use less per round, and it's cheaper per grain. I also load 24.5 gns. with a WW Small Rifle Primer (SRP) and 55 Gn. Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail with Cannelure (FMJBTw/C) bullet. For plinking, and CQB training find the cheapest bullet out there. It won't matter a bit.

I also am a big fan of Scharch 1 shot Military processed 5.56mm brass. It comes to you sized, decapped, trimmed, deburred and tumbled clean for about $77 per 1,000. You can also get your bullets there as well. I think they offer free shipping on orders over $70.00, but you need to go to their site and check. www.scharch.com

the_accuser
05-05-08, 20:08
Brass: Lake City, Winchester, Remington, WCC
Bullet: Hornady 55gr FMJBT
Primer: Winchester small rifle
Powder: 25.0gr H335

Stan Chen
05-09-08, 09:53
Good info above!

Here's my general purpose ball load:

LC brass
25.2 gr. AA2230
Hornady 55 FMJ BT w/c
Remington 7 1/2

In my barrels it clocks about 100 fps less than Nato spec loads, which to me is about perfect, good safety margin and less wear on everything in general. Runs great in my shorties.

Match/serious loads I use AA2520 and Hornady 75's (not AMAX).

markm
05-09-08, 10:10
In my barrels it clocks about 100 fps less than Nato spec loads, which to me is about perfect, good safety margin and less wear on everything in general. Runs great in my shorties.

That's my approach too. I dialed in my old WW748 loads at exactly that.... 100 fps slower than NATO.

Linea_de_Fuego
06-07-08, 23:39
The following load data was what I chrono'ed. I have since changed to 26.2 gr.

Cartridge: 223 Rem

Powder: Hodgdon H335
Primer: Federal #205 small rifle
Case: Lake City 89
: Federal FC
Case Length: 1.75

Bullet: 55gr Hornady FMJBT - w/canalure
OAL: 2.20 (case mouth roughly center of canalure)
Crimp: Very Light using Dillon Factory Crimp Die

Firearm: AR-15 with CMT upper and Noveski barrel
Barrel Length: 16"
Barrel Details: Stainless Steel, 1 in 7 twist
Comp: DNTC

Chrono Dist: 10 ft

Date: 11/24/2007
Time: 2:00 PM
Temp: 61
Bar Pres: 29.91
Rel Hum: 32%

Elevation: 397 ft

Case: LC Pdr Wt: 26.0 - 3049 fps - 5 shot average
Case: FC Pdr Wt: 26.0 - 3059 fps - 5 shot average

nksmfamjp
06-23-08, 19:48
Brass: I use mixed head stamps. Sized fired - .003" Careful with the lube. It has to enter the die with the same force each time for the same headspace dimension. I use lots of Hornady One Shot.

Primer: I use the old silver hard cup Win primers. Probably switch to CCI when I run out.

Powder: Benchmark. Shoots good groups. Meters awsome. Not compressed.

Bullet: Hornady 55 gr FMJBT Just because they are cheapest. I hope I can get these to group under 2 in @ 100. 10 shots That is about where I'm at now. Seated lands - 0.020".

markm
06-24-08, 08:12
I use lots of Hornady One Shot.

That's because it's a terrible case lube. Dillon case lube is infinitely better.

I've used both extensively. And I can, without batting an eye, say that one shot is the worst reloading product I've ever suffered through.

nksmfamjp
06-25-08, 05:59
That's because it's a terrible case lube. Dillon case lube is infinitely better.

I've used both extensively. And I can, without batting an eye, say that one shot is the worst reloading product I've ever suffered through.

Can you please explain? The Hornady dries enough that it doesn't affect my after setup powder checks. i.e. powder doesn't stick in the case. With the Dillon lube, I always have this problem. With One Shot, I just give finished loads a quick wipe on a paper towel. With the Dillon, because it is much wetter, I fear it is damaging the powder and is harder to wipe off. YMMV

markm
06-25-08, 08:19
I see what you're saying. If I get too much Dillon in the resizing die, this can happen, but it's rare.

(keep in mind that the context of my opinions is in the bulk practice ammo realm... i.e. running hundreds of cases at a time)

I don't lube the inside of my case necks. I just mist them in a small container, and am done with it. I don't have a problem with NOT lubing the case necks, but that may be unique to my gear. :confused:

The other thing is... After I resize and decap and all that, I tumble the lube off. I don't go straight into powder and bullets. With one shot, you have to wipe it off. The tumbler won't get that crap off of the cases. 30 minutes in the tumbler gets about all of the Dillon off of the brass.

One shot was very inconsistant too. Some cases would go thru resizing smooth, while others would feel like they were sticking. They'd all size fine, but it was annoying as hell. The two characteristics that kill me with one shot are it's poor lubricating characteristics, and how hard it is to get off of my brass. I might be able to live with one or the other, but NOT BOTH.

nksmfamjp
06-25-08, 20:44
I see what you're saying. If I get too much Dillon in the resizing die, this can happen, but it's rare.

(keep in mind that the context of my opinions is in the bulk practice ammo realm... i.e. running hundreds of cases at a time)

I don't lube the inside of my case necks. I just mist them in a small container, and am done with it. I don't have a problem with NOT lubing the case necks, but that may be unique to my gear. :confused:

The other thing is... After I resize and decap and all that, I tumble the lube off. I don't go straight into powder and bullets. With one shot, you have to wipe it off. The tumbler won't get that crap off of the cases. 30 minutes in the tumbler gets about all of the Dillon off of the brass.

One shot was very inconsistant too. Some cases would go thru resizing smooth, while others would feel like they were sticking. They'd all size fine, but it was annoying as hell. The two characteristics that kill me with one shot are it's poor lubricating characteristics, and how hard it is to get off of my brass. I might be able to live with one or the other, but NOT BOTH.

Well, I think this is why the phrase YMMV was created. For me:

I do like to get some in the neck. I do that for consistent sizing force. I find the headspace dimension can vary up to .010" between easy and hard to size. I throw lots of lube on the cases in a cardboard box and bounce them around.

I load progressive and won't tumble loaded ammo, so I just wipe lube off with a paper towel.

FWIW I'm usually loading about 300 at a time. I would like to get to 500 at a sitting.

Kurt Reifert
06-26-08, 07:25
I use Dillon and One Shot. Depends on which container is closest to my hand.
I place the cases in a zip lock bag, spray liberally, seal the bag and massage the bag.
Works great with no oversray.
I don't bother removing the lube. Waste of energy.

markm
06-26-08, 08:33
I don't bother removing the lube. Waste of energy.

I used to do that too. But for 30 minutes in the tumbler, I have ammo that's not all tacky and nasty, and won't have dusty and fibers sticking to it.

There was a veteran reloader over on TOS who made a case for why you don't want to fire lubed cases in your chamber. It wasn't a safety or build up issue, but rather an issue of how the brass grips the inside of the chamber or something.

I'm not sure if the point was valid, but it sounded reasonable. I just tumble anyway to get rid of the goo! Plus if someone else shoots my ammo, they don't get the impression that reloaded ammo is nasty and somehow substandard to factory.

markm
06-26-08, 08:41
I load progressive and won't tumble loaded ammo, so I just wipe lube off with a paper towel.


I generally don't have a need to tumble live ammo, but it won't hurt a thing.

My system is this: (most people don't do it this way, but it works for me)

I process all my brass to the point that it's resized, cleaned, and primed. Then I store it in freezer bags with a little desicant as extra protection against moisture.

Then I just powder charge it, put a bullet in it, and crimp whenever I need ammo. Working with fully prepped and primed brass allows me to focus on the powder charge in my progressive, and keeps my loading rate up. I don't have to mess with the primers jamming and reloading the primer tube and all those distractions. This system allows me to load at a decent speed while still visually checking every single powder charge.

Redhat
06-29-08, 09:04
All the manuals I have say NOT to tumble reloaded rounds. It can mess up the burn rate of the powder as it may remove some of the retardent coating and create a saftey issue with pressure.

markm
06-30-08, 08:25
All the manuals I have say NOT to tumble reloaded rounds. It can mess up the burn rate of the powder as it may remove some of the retardent coating and create a saftey issue with pressure.

Complete Bullshit. I can't believe that this myth is still purveyed.

Years back this myth was put to death by several members of TOS. They contacted numerous ammo manufacturors. Those that responded to the question stated that it was silly because the powders are blended extensively in the manufacturing process.

A little tumbling at the house will do nothing to the powder charge.

Redhat
06-30-08, 17:53
Really?

So I guess they folks that wrote the Sierra manual don't know what they're talking about? No manual I have lists tumbling fully loaded rounds as a step in the process.

I'm no expert but that's good enough for me, besides, you can always tumble again after sizing before you charge with powder.

markm
07-01-08, 08:10
I'm no expert but that's good enough for me, besides, you can always tumble again after sizing before you charge with powder.

That's what I do anyway 99% of the time... just tumble prior to powder and bullet. My guess is that they're just erroring on the side of caution for liability reasons? Or maybe older extruded powders could actually break down? I don't know why they still say this.

I think it's black hills who tumbles their live ammo. You'll find media stuck in the open tip of the bullet sometimes.

skyugo
07-01-08, 09:14
my standard load up is 26.0 grains of tac with 55 grain hornady bullets. CCI small rifle primers.

right around 2950 FPS out of my 16" 1in7 middy.

i've toyed with the 75 grain hornady hollowpoints a little. they seem to be quite accurate... but they're a little too pricey for my everday use.

Wes1977
07-23-08, 07:38
Am I doing this math right for price of gun powder?

If you bought a 1lbs of powder.
there is 453.59237 grams in 1lbs and if you load 25 grams
That means you can only load 18.1436948 bullets per pound of powder.


If you bought a 8lbs of powder multiply 18.1436948 bullets by 8 equals 145.1495584 bullets.

The Ramshot Tac is $122.99 for 8lbs at Midwayusa not including shipping.

Someone please tell me i'm wrong.

markm
07-23-08, 08:03
Someone please tell me i'm wrong.

You are very wrong. If you can squeeze 1 pound of powder into 18 rounds, you might be compressing your load a little.

Reloaders measure powder in "grains" not grams by the way. :eek:

(and there's 7000 grains in a pound of powder)... Sharpen your crayon and redo the math! :p

Wes1977
07-23-08, 08:07
You are very wrong. If you can squeeze 1 pound of powder into 18 rounds, you might be compressing your load a little.

Reloaders measure powder in "grains" not grams by the way. :eek:

(and there's 7000 grains in a pound of powder)... Sharpen your crayon and redo the math! :p


Yeah I knew something couldn't be right.

Wes1977
07-23-08, 09:50
Ok i've done a bunch of calculations knowing the right unit of measurment now.

If I bought the Dillon XL 650 w/ extras I would be able to pay for it @ aprox 3,000 rounds over factory ammo.

markm
07-23-08, 10:18
Hvae you seen this calculator? It's kinda handy!

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

I think I did the math once, and figure I paid for my 550 after 4000 or so rounds of .45 ACP. I was pretty suprised at the savings. I bet I've paid for my entire reloading set up at least 8 to 10 times over in the years that I've been loading.

Gutshot John
07-23-08, 10:56
Hvae you seen this calculator? It's kinda handy!

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

I think I did the math once, and figure I paid for my 550 after 4000 or so rounds of .45 ACP. I was pretty suprised at the savings. I bet I've paid for my entire reloading set up at least 8 to 10 times over in the years that I've been loading.

Damn that adds up quick.

Wes1977
07-23-08, 11:33
Damn that adds up quick.

Yeah, i'm figuring the going rate for factory ammo is $0.45 a bullet and I calculated reloading at $0.15 a bullet with out buying brass. If I can reload for 15-20 cents a bullet i'll be happy.

markm
07-23-08, 11:46
Yeah, i'm figuring the going rate for factory ammo is $0.45 a bullet and I calculated reloading at $0.15 a bullet with out buying brass. If I can reload for 15-20 cents a bullet i'll be happy.

New ammo can be found for closer to $.35 per round if you look hard.

But even if you factor in $0.10 per round for your own labor (gathering, prepping, and loading the free brass) and other misc. costs, you're still in good shape over the long haul.

And you can always deduct the $0.10 per piece of brass you get when calculating the price to buy a few hundred New rounds of Priv or something. In other words, by reloading, you are effectively reducing the cost of new ammo you buy do to the value of the brass you keep from new ammo.

It's just that lovely.

rockm4
08-02-08, 17:20
I used to do that too. But for 30 minutes in the tumbler, I have ammo that's not all tacky and nasty, and won't have dusty and fibers sticking to it.

There was a veteran reloader over on TOS who made a case for why you don't want to fire lubed cases in your chamber. It wasn't a safety or build up issue, but rather an issue of how the brass grips the inside of the chamber or something.

I'm not sure if the point was valid, but it sounded reasonable. I just tumble anyway to get rid of the goo! Plus if someone else shoots my ammo, they don't get the impression that reloaded ammo is nasty and somehow substandard to factory.

Hello all, the Gentleman was right by not removing the case lube the cases when fired will scorch the chamber. You cant see it with a few hundred rounds fired. But if you were to magnifi the chamber at 10x you would see where it starts to erode the chamber diameter and changing the head spacing. Also many tight chambers will experience extraction problems, etc...

rockm4
08-02-08, 18:10
Am I doing this math right for price of gun powder?

If you bought a 1lbs of powder.
there is 453.59237 grams in 1lbs and if you load 25 grams
That means you can only load 18.1436948 bullets per pound of powder.


If you bought a 8lbs of powder multiply 18.1436948 bullets by 8 equals 145.1495584 bullets.

The Ramshot Tac is $122.99 for 8lbs at Midwayusa not including shipping.

Someone please tell me i'm wrong.

What book have you been reading?!!! I have the Lyman 11th edition circa1972. along with about ten other reloading books and on page 7 it tells about powers and property's. 1 lb. of modern ballistic power not black power has 7000 gr.s per pound. That being ball, flake or extruded. Also I hope that you are loading in grains not grams.Please don't take this as a smartass answer.So by my math figures you should get about 280 rounds per. pound. Thats at 25 gr.s a round.

Wes1977
08-02-08, 19:04
What book have you been reading?!!! I have the Lyman 11th edition circa1972. along with about ten other reloading books and on page 7 it tells about powers and property's. 1 lb. of modern ballistic power not black power has 7000 gr.s per pound. That being ball, flake or extruded. Also I hope that you are loading in grains not grams.Please don't take this as a smartass answer.So by my math figures you should get about 280 rounds per. pound. Thats at 25 gr.s a round.

I do not have a loader yet and was just doing some research. The problem was i didn't know exactly what the acronym gr really was. I was thinking it was grams. So I started doing some calculations and trying to make sure I really want to reload. A week prior I didn't hardly know anything about reloading and wouldn't care because .40 s&w and 9mm are pretty cheap. But now with the .233 rem prices, It makes it more attractive.

rockm4
08-02-08, 21:37
I do not have a loader yet and was just doing some research. The problem was i didn't know exactly what the acronym gr really was. I was thinking it was grams. So I started doing some calculations and trying to make sure I really want to reload. A week prior I didn't hardly know anything about reloading and wouldn't care because .40 s&w and 9mm are pretty cheap. But now with the .233 rem prices, It makes it more attractive.

Wes,I have reloaded my own bullets for all that i shoot for over 35 years now.I have a lot of tips and reloading experience on proven loads with many powders that nobody uses anymore. like getting 500 rds. from a single pound of powder for 5.56mm. leave me your e mail address and I will be glad to pass along the info and what it takes to build a better bullet than you can buy at half the cost. patriot.

markm
08-04-08, 08:25
That's 14 grains per round. Forgive me if I'm a little skeptical. ;)

I know some people load for subsonic silencer fire, but I've never warmed up to low volume rifle loads due to the warnings posted on silencertalk.

rockm4
08-06-08, 22:49
That's 14 grains per round. Forgive me if I'm a little skeptical. ;)

I know some people load for subsonic silencer fire, but I've never warmed up to low volume rifle loads due to the warnings posted on silencertalk.

Yes, I thought the same thing too. An old wildcatter told me about this years ago, although this load was for a bolt gun. I experimented w/ it in my old XM177E2 its worn out, so I wouldn't try this in a new gun mainly because of the tightness. In other words needs to be loose it to cycle. Here we go,as I said I played with it until I got it to cycle by starting out cutting the buffer spring down 13 coils.( removed that is ) Seven to start with then one at a time, test firing it each coil removed until the rifle cycled with no problems. This rifle has seen about 5,000 rounds of this load and no malfunction, this is a auto carrier with a std. buffer and std. spring although now this is the third spring due to ware and compression. I know what your thinking B/S right, the recoil is about 1/3 of factory ammo.NOW the moment you've all been waiting for. HERCULES /ALLI ANT, 2400..... 13.4 gr. starting and 14.0 gr.max.. using small rifle primers and 55 gr. bullets W/ Can.or non cannalure. From a16 in. bbl. I get about 2600 fps. . Good enough for 1.5 in. groups of three at 100 yds. with irons. patriot :cool:;) O yea, if you try this be sure you put the std. buffer spring back in to shoot factory loads. :eek:

markm
08-07-08, 08:41
Interesting. You sure save a lot of powder.

But I kinda have a thing about my loads being at least standard .223 velocity. Not that anyone else has to do things my way. But I like to have my ammo worthy of use for defensive purposes in a pinch. Not that I don't have separate defensive ammo, but if for some wild reason I had to use my practice ammo... I could.

rockm4
08-07-08, 23:07
Interesting. You sure save a lot of powder.

But I kinda have a thing about my loads being at least standard .223 velocity. Not that anyone else has to do things my way. But I like to have my ammo worthy of use for defensive purposes in a pinch. Not that I don't have separate defensive ammo, but if for some wild reason I had to use my practice ammo... I could.

The small group of Sunday shooters I run with use to pick a couple of us to drive up to Tennessee a couple of times a year, well before the cost of reloading components jumped 48% in price, anyway we would buy 4 /8 lb. kegs ea. of mixed powers, at a real good price. Because of the volume that we bought. Once we bought 30 /8 lb. kegs. Which filled the back of a full size ford van. Boy the ICC and the BAFT would have had a field day :D The down loaded ammo is strictly for p liking. I have give or take a few hundred about 10,000 mixed M193, M855, some SS-109 for "Home Defense". So what I reload is just for fun. By the way what else has an old retired Lifer got to do with his time. Shoot, fish and fly.:) Hey thanks, for the interest in what CRAP an old man has piled up in his head that might be of some use to you young people. Patriot.

markm
08-08-08, 08:52
I bet the brass lasts a lot longer too.

I'd love to see that pickup full of powder. I could use it to show my wife how much restraint I have by buying only 2 8-lbs powder kegs.

Gutshot John
08-08-08, 09:03
I've never warmed up to low volume rifle loads due to the warnings posted on silencertalk.

Can you elaborate a bit about these warnings? I don't know anything about it other than subsonic rounds are quieter without the crack.

markm
08-08-08, 09:36
Can you elaborate a bit about these warnings? I don't know anything about it other than subsonic rounds are quieter without the crack.

Low volume ratio loads can detonate.... kaboom.

I can't say I fully understand why.... I think it has to do with the primer not immediatly igniting the powder charge. There's a slight delay in ignition and then a pipe b0mb effect.

At the top of the hand loading forum on silencertalk they warn about it specifically, and advise to load at your own risk.

Gutshot John
08-08-08, 09:38
Low volume ratio loads can detonate.... kaboom.

I can't say I fully understand why.... I think it has to do with the primer not immediatly igniting the powder charge. There's a slight delay in ignition and then a pipe b0mb effect.

At the top of the hand loading forum on silencertalk they warn about it specifically, and advise to load at your own risk.

So kind of like a full liquid fuel tank won't explode, but a nearly empty one will?

markm
08-08-08, 10:35
So kind of like a full liquid fuel tank won't explode, but a nearly empty one will?

Not really. Gas fumes can ignite in that scenario. I think it screws up the pressure curve or something. I'm just guessing at this point. :confused:

Gutshot John
08-08-08, 11:53
Not really. Gas fumes can ignite in that scenario. I think it screws up the pressure curve or something. I'm just guessing at this point. :confused:

NP I was just trying to visualize.

rockm4
08-08-08, 15:28
I bet the brass lasts a lot longer too.

I'd love to see that pickup full of powder. I could use it to show my wife how much restraint I have by buying only 2 8-lbs powder kegs.

That particular time I think we were buying for 10 people, I ah told my buddy to make sure he didn't forget and fire up one of those nasty cigarettes.:eek: And it was an FORD ECONELINE F-350 van. I checked my records and found the receipt for that load ( it's a bad habit of mine ) I don't through any receipts away. And we paid $46.71 per keg. But now that was march 23, 1981. I was stationed at FT. BRAGG, NC. The Provost Marchall was a good friend of mine and he said ( I DID NOT SEE A THING! ). When we told him where we were going and what for, base housing you know . They made us lock up our personal weapons at the armory.:( but we could have and load ammo on post.:confused: NO, I didn't ask why,ether.

rockm4
08-08-08, 15:45
Low volume ratio loads can detonate.... kaboom.

I can't say I fully understand why.... I think it has to do with the primer not immediatly igniting the powder charge. There's a slight delay in ignition and then a pipe b0mb effect.

At the top of the hand loading forum on silencertalk they warn about it specifically, and advise to load at your own risk.

At 14gr. in a5.56 mm case its about 60% full. Hercules 2400 is a shot shell and pistol powder. And it has a fair amount of volume, if I'm wording it right.:o

markm
08-08-08, 16:03
At 14gr. in a5.56 mm case its about 60% full. Hercules 2400 is a shot shell and pistol powder. And it has a fair amount of volume, if I'm wording it right.:o

Another good point. Powder volumes are unique to powders.

When I switch from one powder to another on my 550, the same volume is a different weight.

jmart
08-08-08, 18:31
Secondary Explosion Effect, or SEE.

Powder doesn't ignite fully at primer detonation time. Bullet releases but pressure curve doesn't build correctly, and bullet actually slows down when it hits the leade. At this same time the fire fully lights and pressure builds rapidly.

In a normal load the pressure builds evenly and the bullet accelerates as it goes down the bore. With SEE you have the bullet slowing while the fire re-ignites and the burn outpaces the bullet's movement. Bad juju.