Can a safe be too airtight?

[uffdaphil]

My Liberty safe door rattled so I put 1/4" rubber weatherstripping all around to seal it up. Now I have to lightly press to close the bolts.

In my archive searches one member said there has to be air flow to allow humidity to escape. This seems counter-intuitive to me. My electric heat rod keeps the humidity level at about 45%. Would not a leaky door seal let humidity IN?


Also would be interested in how others maximize space. Rated 23 gun, but only 8-9 AR's with optics fit upright. So I store uppers and pistols on shelves in gunsocks. Is that a good idea or do they need air to circulate directly to avoid rust?

[RCI1911]

The rubber seal you installed my not allow your expanding fire seal to work properly in the event of a fire. Most safes aren't frogs butt tight but if yours rattles that seems a bit loose. If you have a dehumidifier you will be fine in any case.

Most safes don't hold anywhere close to what they say, especially with optics. They make round, rotary turn style gun racks that will fit inside your safe that allow for more guns to fit in most circumstances.

[Kokopelli]

I would want a little air flow, but not much. I also use one of the rechargeable desiccant that everyone sell ($20). I would also use a fire rods and keep the safe in the living area of the home. The desiccant will absorb moisture lowering the humidity. The heaters don't actually lower humidity. They maintain a higher temperature inside the safe that prevents condensation on the guns. Condensation occurs when moist air contacts an object that is at a lower temperature.

The space sounds about normal. It's typically about half the advertised amount for scoped AR's. Ya gotta kinda pack them in there.. Ron

[Ryno12]

You don't want a leaking door seal since you are trying to control the air quality within your safe. The heat rod you have in your safe also creates air flow within your safe by means of convection. Desiccant packs are also a good way to control humidity as they absorb moisture, however, there is no air movement that is created as in case with the rods. Either way, both work best with a sealed safe.

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[uffdaphil]

Thanks all. I will toss in and monitor desiccant. It is on the main floor and with my allergies the A/C is always running when sultry.

[steyrman13]

If its a liberty safe, IME, they have one long or two small plates that are adjustable on the non-hinge side for the bolts to lock up against to stop the rattle.
As mention with that seal you added, the fire seal is now not going to work properly

[uffdaphil]

I see how the plates snug down the bolts. According to the attached Liberty site photo it appears the previous owner removed the fire seal altogether. So if I replace my rubber with this I should be good to go.
http://www.lorientna.com/products/gaskets-for-safes/

[steyrman13]

I see how the plates snug down the bolts. According to the attached Liberty site photo it appears the previous owner removed the fire seal altogether. So if I replace my rubber with this I should be good to go.
http://www.lorientna.com/products/gaskets-for-safes/

Yep that should fix it. I didn't realize your old fire seal was missing. It would be hard to stop all rattles even with the adjustment plates.

[Kokopelli]

Unless you live in the city or utility supplied suburbs, fire-proofing ain't worth the paper it's printed on; best to have proper firearm insurance (collector's type).. JMO.. Ron