View Full Version : I joined the reloading club! Check out my set up.
I finally got serious about reloading. Thanks to BrianEnos.com it was super easy and I got pretty much everything I need to get started. I know I still need bullets, primers, tumbler media, and powder but I'm getting closer to loading my first round. I went with the 9mm kit to start but will be getting conversion kits for 40S&W and 5.56.
Here's some pics of my set up. I put it all together today.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5509.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5509.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5501.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5501.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5502.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5502.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5503.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5503.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5504.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5504.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5505.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5505.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon55010.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon55010.jpg.html)
I set my resizing/depriming die and my powder/flaring die today. I'll set the seating die and crimping die when I get some bullets. How does my bell flare look? Too much or just right. It looks good to me based on what I've read and seen, but I'm still learning.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5506.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5506.jpg.html)
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5507.jpg (http://s115.photobucket.com/user/SWThomas/media/Dillon5507.jpg.html)
I'm planning to buy a case trimmer soon since I'll need it for reloading rifle cases. How important is it to trim pistol cases? All the videos I've seen show folks just cleaning and loading. The only brass I've seen people trim is rifle brass.
Is there anything else you guys think I should invest in before I get started?
RearwardAssist
07-21-13, 18:32
May have a slightly large bell on those cases.
eta: I never trim my pistol cases.
Go slow in the beginning. A double charge or unrecognized squib will ruin your experience. If you haven't read The ABCs of Reloading, I highly recommend it. I see a load data manual on the bench but one or two more won't hurt in order to have multiple sources for load data. Be careful reading a internet forum with Uncle Bubba's secret recipe for the most awesomeness load ever!!! Until you are much more experienced I would stick to what's in your published manuals. Buy or borrow a chrono to check velocities out of YOUR firearms.
That 550B will produce 500 rounds/hour of 9mm when you are ready.
As for things to buy, you have a great set up. I would highly recommend some sort of flex neck flashlight to stick down the center hole in the toolhead. That will allow you good light to visually inspect every case for a powder charge. I got a small one at Walmart for about $6.
As for tumbling media, I used to use the purpose sold tumbling media but started using lizard bedding from PetSmart. It's crushed walnut and about $15 for a 10 quart bag. http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752164&locale=en_US&green=DBC70801-1565-5DFD-BDF2-B905A917D71A works great and is very fine.
Go slow.
I agree the bell doesn't need to be quite that big. I have never trimmed my 9mm brass. All my brass is range pick ups. If you use range pickups, WCC headstamped brass has a crimped primer pocket. Using my 550B and CCI SPP I can not get a primer in the pocket without swaging the primer pocket. I go through my brass and just toss all WCC (or other crimped primers) into a bucket to give to a friend with a 1050 that has a swagging station. If one gets by you the primer can get jammed in the pocket and lock up your machine. I have had to unscrew the shellplate in order to get the partially primed brass out. That REALLY slows you down. That's why, although very high quality brass, I just toss them aside.
Best,
Harold
p.s. in case I didn't say it, Go Slow. ;)
edited for some stuff I forgot...
The only time I trim my pistol cases is when I'm looking for an excuse to hide from the wife.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Go slow in the beginning. A double charge or unrecognized squib will ruin your experience. If you haven't read The ABCs of Reloading, I highly recommend it. I see a load data manual on the bench but one or two more won't hurt in order to have multiple sources for load data. Be careful reading a internet forum with Uncle Bubba's secret recipe for the most awesomeness load ever!!! Until you are much more experienced I would stick to what's in your published manuals. Buy or borrow a chrono to check velocities out of YOUR firearms.
That 550B will produce 500 rounds/hour of 9mm when you are ready.
As for things to buy, you have a great set up. I would highly recommend some sort of flex neck flashlight to stick down the center hole in the toolhead. That will allow you good light to visually inspect every case for a powder charge. I got a small one at Walmart for about $6.
As for tumbling media, I used to use the purpose sold tumbling media but started using lizard bedding from PetSmart. It's crushed walnut and about $15 for a 10 quart bag. http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752164&locale=en_US&green=DBC70801-1565-5DFD-BDF2-B905A917D71A works great and is very fine.
Go slow.
I agree the bell doesn't need to be quite that big. I have never trimmed my 9mm brass. All my brass is range pick ups. If you use range pickups, WCC headstamped brass has a crimped primer pocket. Using my 550B and CCI SPP I can not get a primer in the pocket without swaging the primer pocket. I go through my brass and just toss all WCC (or other crimped primers) into a bucket to give to a friend with a 1050 that has a swagging station. If one gets by you the primer can get jammed in the pocket and lock up your machine. I have had to unscrew the shellplate in order to get the partially primed brass out. That REALLY slows you down. That's why, although very high quality brass, I just toss them aside.
Best,
Harold
p.s. in case I didn't say it, Go Slow. ;)
edited for some stuff I forgot...
Thanks a bunch! That's some great info! I'll double check but all the casings I currently have are WWB fired by me. But some other stuff might have gotten mixed in somehow. I'll definitely heed your advice on the manuals, light, and media. Again, thanks!
May have a slightly large bell on those cases.
eta: I never trim my pistol cases.
I'm getting that from some other forums too. I'll dial back that die a hair. Thanks!
WCC headstamps can be on many different brands of ammo. Your WWB may very well have some WCC headstamps.
A friends box of Federal range ammo had several different headstamps and both brass colored and nickel colored primers in the same box.
Check them all.
I don't know if you shoot at an indoor range, outdoor range or private facility/land but if outdoor and allowable, set a bed sheet next to you and reclaim your own brass. That way once you have loaded it once you know it is GTG. 10-15 loadings with low to moderate loads is not unreasonable for 9mm brass in my experience.
Best,
Harold
Thanks a bunch! That's some great info! I'll double check but all the casings I currently have are WWB fired by me. But some other stuff might have gotten mixed in somehow. I'll definitely heed your advice on the manuals, light, and media. Again, thanks!
The 550b is as solid a setup as you can get. I love mine, but no way will I ever approach 500 rounds an hour. I am just too damn careful. I got real lucky with a squib 1st rounds loaded ever and have been practically paranoid since. I have had a lot of enjoyment with my 550, I find it relaxing to a point. I am pretty much done after about 250-300 rounds, I have to step away. Good luck and like others have said, take it slow and be sure to look into EVERY case before you seat a bullet. Get one of those lights that shine onto the shell plate, worth every penny.
P.S. Bell looks about right to me but maybe the photo is skewing my opinion.
WCC headstamps can be on many different brands of ammo. Your WWB may very well have some WCC headstamps.
A friends box of Federal range ammo had several different headstamps and both brass colored and nickel colored primers in the same box.
Check them all.
I don't know if you shoot at an indoor range, outdoor range or private facility/land but if outdoor and allowable, set a bed sheet next to you and reclaim your own brass. That way once you have loaded it once you know it is GTG. 10-15 loadings with low to moderate loads is not unreasonable for 9mm brass in my experience.
Best,
Harold
Thanks again! Is there a reason why you don't wanna swage them?
Its just quicker for me to toss them aside as opposed to processing them twice.
When I am ready to load I set aside an hour, have all my primer pick up tubes loaded and have non crimped brass. I can then load 500 rounds in that hour and still check powder in every case. Eventually you will get a rhythm.
This is also because I belong to a outdoor club so my brass is nearly limitless. Every time I shoot I bring home twice as much brass as I shot. If my brass supply was limited I probably would swage them but right now its not necessary.
Harold
Once you are comfortable and get all the prep work done, 500 rounds an hour is pulling the handle once every 7.xx seconds. That's not hard to do....WHEN you are comfortable.
Right now concentrate on a safe load and meticulous attention to detail when you are ready to load some rounds. Like shooting, work on accuracy first and speed will come naturally.
Harold
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Three thoughts:
1. You won't need to lube the 9mm cases. You'll need to lube the .223 cases, and OneShot is not well regarded (just send it to MarkM, so that he can blow it up).
2. Good luck finding bullets, primers, and powder...
3. I'm conservative, but I've heard from a lot of people that electronic scales can be wonky. A balance-beam scale (no circuits) is fool-proof.
As you may have already heard, go slow. Read that Lyman book, starting at the front as there's lot of good info there way before you get to the data pages. Always stop and ask if you have a question.
Never, ever chat or socialize while you're reloading. I learned that one the hard way. Good luck and be safe.
BTW, that press will work fine acting as a single station or loading one round at the time. That way you're concentrating on the one round from beginning to end until you're ready to get cranking.
Keith
As you may have already heard, go slow. Read that Lyman book, starting at the front as there's lot of good info there way before you get to the data pages. Always stop and ask if you have a question.
Never, ever chat or socialize while you're reloading. I learned that one the hard way. Good luck and be safe.
BTW, that press will work fine acting as a single station or loading one round at the time. That way you're concentrating on the one round from beginning to end until you're ready to get cranking.
Keith
Super critical. My wife has a bad habit of coming in to ask me questions she could easily ask after I'm done (grrr...). In that event, I stop the process with the handle on the down stroke. That way I can't accidentally screw up the sequence on the restart.
Maineshooter
07-22-13, 17:31
Wow - that's a great lineup of equipment for your first setup. Too many people make the mistake of getting crap that will frustrate them. Even if you get tired of it - which you probably won't - the resale on the Dillon equipment is pretty strong.
Question...
I went out and checked the cases again. That at the bottom of the cases appears to be from the resizing die not going all the way down the case. I measured an unsized/once fired case and it was the same measurement from top to bottom. Then I resized it and it shrunk down everywhere except where that bulge is. I don't know what's wrong and why it's not resizing the entire case. My resizing die makes very light contact with the shell plate when the handle is completely down so I can't go any lower on the die. The resized brass does easily fit in the case gauge.
What am I doing wrong?
RearwardAssist
07-22-13, 20:09
The only time i ever had that happen was the sizing die wasnt far enough down. But you are saying your contacts the shell plate. If it gauges I may run with it.
The only time i ever had that happen was the sizing die wasnt far enough down. But you are saying your contacts the shell plate. If it gauges I may run with it.
Could I have a bad die?
You may be able to move the die down a little but your experience is not unique.
Many dies, including Dillon Carbide 9mm do not truly resize the entire case. The taper at the mouth that makes the dies easy to use (especially on progressives) is the culprit. You may notice a slight hourglass shape in your finished ammunition.
If it gauges ok it should not be a problem going in to battery. Even those that dont gauge perfectly function fine in my Glocks 99% of the time. That being said, if they don't gauge I don't use them in matches as I have had a couple cases not go into battery.
Go on Enos and search for 9mm sizing topics and you will find more than enough info.
Something to be aware of? Sure.
Something to lose sleep over? Nope.
Best
Harold
Question...
I went out and checked the cases again. That at the bottom of the cases appears to be from the resizing die not going all the way down the case. I measured an unsized/once fired case and it was the same measurement from top to bottom. Then I resized it and it shrunk down everywhere except where that bulge is. I don't know what's wrong and why it's not resizing the entire case. My resizing die makes very light contact with the shell plate when the handle is completely down so I can't go any lower on the die. The resized brass does easily fit in the case gauge.
What am I doing wrong?
Nice.
Scale?
I have a dillon eliminator scale that I added a Lyman funnel pan to. I taped a dime (and a penny?) to the bottom to bring it to the weight of the standard pan. I really wanted the built in funnel lol.
Good for checking loads and dialing in your loading session.
Most of what I've read about Hornady one shot lube was distinct hatred, and the rest was mild hatred. Dillon lube seemed fine. Personally I use Lee paste.
The bell should only be enough to get the bullet in without shaving it. Sometimes that can be a visible bell, sometimes not. But you can typically always feel it.
Was there a loading tray anywhere? One of those 50 count ones is nice. In a pinch an old ammo box tray can do. What I like to do is alternate a row to indicate what's been powder charged and what remains. Your progressive setup won't really need that but it may be nice for starting out and getting a feel.
RearwardAssist
07-22-13, 21:21
Nice.
Scale?
I have a dillon eliminator scale that I added a Lyman funnel pan to. I taped a dime (and a penny?) to the bottom to bring it to the weight of the standard pan. I really wanted the built in funnel lol.
Good for checking loads and dialing in your loading session.
Most of what I've read about Hornady one shot lube was distinct hatred, and the rest was mild hatred. Dillon lube seemed fine. Personally I use Lee paste.
The bell should only be enough to get the bullet in without shaving it. Sometimes that can be a visible bell, sometimes not. But you can typically always feel it.
Was there a loading tray anywhere? One of those 50 count ones is nice. In a pinch an old ammo box tray can do. What I like to do is alternate a row to indicate what's been powder charged and what remains. Your progressive setup won't really need that but it may be nice for starting out and getting a feel.
What purpose would the loading tray serve with a progressive? Having him remove cases that have been charged and seperate would increase the chance for a mishap in my opinion.
Nice.
Scale?
I have a dillon eliminator scale that I added a Lyman funnel pan to. I taped a dime (and a penny?) to the bottom to bring it to the weight of the standard pan. I really wanted the built in funnel lol.
Good for checking loads and dialing in your loading session.
Most of what I've read about Hornady one shot lube was distinct hatred, and the rest was mild hatred. Dillon lube seemed fine. Personally I use Lee paste.
The bell should only be enough to get the bullet in without shaving it. Sometimes that can be a visible bell, sometimes not. But you can typically always feel it.
Was there a loading tray anywhere? One of those 50 count ones is nice. In a pinch an old ammo box tray can do. What I like to do is alternate a row to indicate what's been powder charged and what remains. Your progressive setup won't really need that but it may be nice for starting out and getting a feel.
I got the same scale. It's in the black case.
.020" I find is enough flare to the mouth.
COZ ZINZKI
07-23-13, 07:04
May have a slightly large bell on those cases.
eta: I never trim my pistol cases.
Trimming is seldom necessarry, I use my Dillon callipers after 5 loadings (and firings) just to make sure.
You have a deluxe set-up for sure. Flanging the mouth-bell, wide, each time, tends to overwork the brass. ( premature splits)
As to the sizing die, the only thing I'm aware of that will remove that bulge at the base entirely is a roll sizer like the Casepro-100. It's not really necessary though. EGW sells an undersize die for common pistol calibers that will reduce your cull rate significantly. It does slow down production, because you have to more carefully align the empty case with the die.
Thanks for all the help fellas!
Thanks for all the help fellas!
Just noticed you are from Richmond.
If you shoot, or are interested in, USPSA pistol matches head north about an hour on the first Sunday of every month. My club, Fredericksburg Rod & Gun Club, is open to the public for a USPSA pistol match. We also have 2 steel challenges a year and hold one 3 gun as well. Always the first Sunday of the month.
Very relaxed and welcoming to newcomers to competitive shooting. ALL skill levels are in attendance. Juniors, Seniors, Super Seniors, life long competitors (even a pro shooter or two every month) and brand new shooters. Everyone is welcome and you are only judged on your ability to shoot safely and have fun.
"Like" Fredericksburg Practical Shooters on FB and/or go to Fredericksburgps.com to sign up for the emailed match announcement and learn more about the matches.
Any questions, PM me.
All that goes for anyone else in the NOVA/Central VA area as well.
Best,
Harold
theblackknight
07-23-13, 19:34
Sweet dude.
You have an idea what powder you're looking to use? FMJ,plated,Molly or lead bullets?
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Forgot to mention. PM if you need a supplier for components. There is a guy on a local board here in VA getting powder/primers/projos at reasonable prices.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Sweet dude.
You have an idea what powder you're looking to use? FMJ,plated,Molly or lead bullets?
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Jacketed bullets. I have no idea on powder. I'll probably go with something out of the Lyman manual if I can find it.
Forgot to mention. PM if you need a supplier for components. There is a guy on a local board here in VA getting powder/primers/projos at reasonable prices.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Thanks! PM sent.
Suwannee Tim
07-31-13, 16:33
WCC headstamps can be on many different brands of ammo.........A friends box of Federal range ammo had several different headstamps and both brass colored and nickel colored primers in the same box.......
Wow.
WCC stamped brass is Winchester and only Winchester.
A box of ammo with several headstamps is mixed ammo or more likely reloads regardless of the box it is in.
WCC is actually Western Cartridge Company. While they are a division of Winchester (or vice versa, I don't recall), they do sell brass overruns to other ammunition companies.
I assure you that box of Federal surprised me as well but he told me he bought it at Walmart. I have no reason to think that is not true, but I did not see him actually purchase it.
Harold
Wow.
WCC stamped brass is Winchester and only Winchester.
A box of ammo with several headstamps is mixed ammo or more likely reloads regardless of the box it is in.
Suwannee Tim
07-31-13, 20:09
WCC is actually Western Cartridge Company. While they are a division of Winchester (or vice versa, I don't recall), they do sell brass overruns to other ammunition companies.
......
Western Cartridge Company has been gone for decades, bought by Winchester. WCC is Winchester. No ammunition company ever, ever sells their brass to another ammo company. How about you go to another forum if you want to make up and post bullshit. Don't even try to refute me or argue with me because I don't argue with bullshitters.
Suwannee Tim
07-31-13, 20:23
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n308/SWThomas/Dillon5507.jpg[/URL]....Is there anything else you guys think I should invest in before I get started?
Little more bell than you really need there. With jacketed bullets, enough bell you can barely see it is enough. Lead bullets need more bell.
That's a real nice setup you got there noob. I reloaded 25 years before I matched it. Looks like you have everything you need. Take your time, check, re-check and check again bullet weight, powder type, powder weight, caliber. Two or more sources of reliable data is a necessity in my estimation. With a progressive press it is very important to develop a routine, specifically, always index the shell plate after dropping a powder charge. When you get up from the machine make sure you have indexed. When you come back make sure you did index i.e. there is no powder charge in the case under the powder measure. Double charges are your biggest danger. No charges are also a hazard but much less if you are aware, always aware of the possibility you can have a squib or no charge when you are shooting. If you have a malfunction make absolutely certain there is no bullet stuck in the barrel. For example, if you have a misfire and pull the cartridge out of the pistol and there is still a bullet seated in the case you can be reasonably certain there is no bullet stuck in the barrel. Good to check anyway. Take your time and investigate every peculiar thing at the machine and on the range. Never allow yourself to become complacent. Never trust your memory when setting up a load. Refer to your manuals or your notes. Keep good notes.
Little more bell than you really need there. With jacketed bullets, enough bell you can barely see it is enough. Lead bullets need more bell.
That's a real nice setup you got there noob. I reloaded 25 years before I matched it. Looks like you have everything you need. Take your time, check, re-check and check again bullet weight, powder type, powder weight, caliber. Two or more sources of reliable data is a necessity in my estimation. With a progressive press it is very important to develop a routine, specifically, always index the shell plate after dropping a powder charge. When you get up from the machine make sure you have indexed. When you come back make sure you did index i.e. there is no powder charge in the case under the powder measure. Double charges are your biggest danger. No charges are also a hazard but much less if you are aware, always aware of the possibility you can have a squib or no charge when you are shooting. If you have a malfunction make absolutely certain there is no bullet stuck in the barrel. For example, if you have a misfire and pull the cartridge out of the pistol and there is still a bullet seated in the case you can be reasonably certain there is no bullet stuck in the barrel. Good to check anyway. Take your time and investigate every peculiar thing at the machine and on the range. Never allow yourself to become complacent. Never trust your memory when setting up a load. Refer to your manuals or your notes. Keep good notes.
Thanks! I dailed back the powder funnel and am now only flaring the case mouth about 0.010. It seems to be the perfect amount of flare. I tried to go with less than that, but I had to hold the bullet on top of the case with my fingers when seating.
I know what you mean about remembering my place. I had to take several brakes when I was loading last night. I just pulled the handle down and left it there. That was an easy way to not forget where I was. Or when I ran out of primers, I would finish loading the cases on the shell plate and clear it out before refilling the primer magazine.
I loaded up about 250 rounds of my first "pet load" last night. I made sure to stop every 25 rounds or so to re-check the powder weight and OAL before continuing. It sure felt good when I was done!
I know what you mean about remembering my place. I had to take several breaks when I was loading last night. I just pulled the handle down and left it there. That was an easy way to not forget where I was. Or when I ran out of primers, I would finish loading the cases on the shell plate and clear it out before refilling the primer magazine.
I always clear the shell plate before taking any "break" because oftentimes my "break" is interrupted, and then I don't wind up back at the press until the next day (or the next month!). I don't like the idea of leaving half-loaded ammo sitting...
Very nice $$
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.