That tight barrel now needs to come out

[midSCarolina]

If anyone remembers this thread:

http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=136588

the barrel now needs to come out and I need to know the best way to do this. Again, it is TIGHT in there. Thanks

[polymorpheous]

Cut a wooden broom stick and hit the broom stick with a mallet to push the barrel out.

[ASH556]

I was gonna say oak dowel, but yeah, same idea. Insert the wooden rod into the receiver from the breech end and slowly tap the barrel forward/out.

[VIP3R 237]

I use a PVC pipe, you don't get as much debris in the chamber.

[Tzed250]

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the receiver. The expansion rate of aluminum is greater than that of steel. Might make it easier.

[TBomb]

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the receiver. The expansion rate of aluminum is greater than that of steel. Might make it easier.

Wouldn't the metal expand in all directions, effectively making it tighter? :confused:

[bp7178]

No.

Warm the receiver with a heat gun.

[MrCleanOK]

Wouldn't the metal expand in all directions, effectively making it tighter? :confused:

Try this.... Draw out a metal donut. Outside diameter of 2", inside diameter of 1". Now heat it up and expand it to twice it's original size. Your 1/2" thick donut walls are now 1"thick, which you obviously already get. But that expansion effects all points on the donut. Any two points on the circumference (or anywhere else) are now twice as far from each other. The new outside diameter is 4", and inside diameter is 2". Your donut hole got bigger too.

Sent from my phone with my giant, uncoordinated sausage thumbs.

[eternal24k]

I have been dreading doing this, as mentioned I did the hot receiver cold barrel trick, but now dread the removal (I want to get the barrel reprofiled)

Tag for info

[AKDoug]

If it went in with the hot receiver/cold barrel trick it will knock right out with a wooden dowel.


Sent from my iPhone on tapatalk

[Tzed250]

Temperature differential is how I fit parts at work. A 4.75" steel bushing will lose .005-.006" after a soak in liquid nitrogen at -321º F. The bushing can then be slip fit into a 4.747" bore. After the bushing returns to room temp it has a .003 interference fit. I have used heat and cold to install large diameter sleeves that had as much as .060" of interference.

[kwelz]

[ I have used heat and cold to install large diameter sleeves that had as much as .060" of interference.[/QUOTE]

Holy shit!!

[thopkins22]

Wouldn't the metal expand in all directions, effectively making it tighter? :confused:

It does not. Linear thermal expansion applies to every dimension, including the radius of the internal surface.

Work the math...I promise you the radius of the hole gets larger.

BTW...thermal dynamics sucks. Here's a great website that'll do the math if you don't want to break out the old calculator or pen and pad. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-thermal-expansion-d_1379.html Also has some decent links explaining it far better than any of my professors did.

[coastwatcher42]

The hot/cold principle worked for me recently. I had to replace a wheel bearing in my wife's car and it was a press-in bearing. I put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours, heated the hub with a torch, and the bearing slipped in with just a little persuasion from a rubber mallet.

[Scoby]

Wooden dowel from Lowes.
Duct tape the end that will impact the chamber end to keep debris from getting all over everything.
Shouldn't be much of a problem.