View Full Version : Noveske upper: OEM Lube removal to prep for Frog Lube
I just got a very nice Noveske upper.
I would like to use Frog Lube on it.
Are there any instructions on how to remove the original lubricant.
You are not suppose to mix oil and Frog Lube.
NoveskeFan
08-25-13, 19:02
I use 90% rubbing alcohol. I've heard of people using non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Froglube also makes a degreaser, but its not cheap.
I use 90% rubbing alcohol. I've heard of people using non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Froglube also makes a degreaser, but its not cheap.
That sounds easy enough.
I'll just wipe it real good and apply some rubbing alcohol.
The outside of barrel is inside the NSR rail and appears oily.
Should I just leave that alone?
Also, I want to heat it real good.
Would a hair dryer work?
F-Trooper05
08-25-13, 19:16
Call me crazy, but I don't put too much effort into cleaning old lube when I apply new lube. I've never had a gun choke because Lube-A came into contact with Lube-B.
Call me crazy, but I don't put too much effort into cleaning old lube when I apply new lube. I've never had a gun choke because Lube-A came into contact with Lube-B.
Froglube is different. It is not like mixing 2 different brands of oil.
That sounds easy enough.
I'll just wipe it real good and apply some rubbing alcohol.
The outside of barrel is inside the NSR rail and appears oily.
Should I just leave that alone?
Also, I want to heat it real good.
Would a hair dryer work?
I'd leave the barrel-under-the-rail alone for now. Hair dryer should work fine. Might take a while though. Are you using the paste?
NoveskeFan
08-25-13, 19:24
I use my wifes "old" hair dryer...she wasn't too happy but got a new one, so all is well. I set the parts on a towel and heat them for a bit, turning them over until I can barely touch them. I then use the paste and brush on the lube, it melts quickly. I use the brush and get the lube everywhere I can, turning the parts to get every surface. I let it sit for an hour or so, reheat and apply some more. Come back after cool and wipe down. I use the liquid to lube friction points, and for cleaning.
Hair dryer is fine. Use one most of the time.
I'd leave the barrel-under-the-rail alone for now. Hair dryer should work fine. Might take a while though. Are you using the paste?
Yes, using the paste.
I had great luck applying it on my Glock upper before and used a warm stove and pot with a steamer.
I really like Froglube.
Tooth & Nail
08-25-13, 19:56
I recently applied frog lube to a new AR. Prior to doing so I cleaned it with KG-3 Solvent & Degreaser (http://www.kgcoatings.com/cleaning/kg-3-solvent-and-degreaser/). I'm sure other products will work equally well, but I was pleased with how well this removed all of the lubrication applied by the factory.
SilverBullet432
08-25-13, 19:59
Really? I got a new 30-30 that came coated in grease. I used froglube to remove it, left it nice, minty and shiny!
Yes, using the paste.
I had great luck applying it on my Glock upper before and used a warm stove and pot with a steamer.
I really like Froglube.
Funny you mention that. I stick my BCG in the toaster for about a minute or two.
F-Trooper05
08-25-13, 21:20
Froglube is different. It is not like mixing 2 different brands of oil.
I ran Froglube exclusively on a DD that had previously been lubed with Slip2000 for a Redback One advanced carbine course and it ran just fine. If it makes it harder to clean, then I'd have no idea because I don't do that nonsense. Lube it. Shoot it. Repeat.
Yes, you need to remove any silly grease or other lubricants because of how it reacts. Use some type of degreaser or non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
You Frog Lube guys are silly......:p
Keep it simple and hose it down with non chlorinated brake cleaner then treat with Frog Lube
Yes, you need to remove any silly grease or other lubricants because of how it reacts. Use some type of degreaser or non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
So, how does it react with other lubricants? Is Fireclean in the same boat?
According to the website FrogLube will eventually dissolve any petrochemicals present on the gun, but while both are present you won't see the maximum benefits of FrogLube.
Yes, you need to remove any silly grease or other lubricants because of how it reacts. Use some type of degreaser or non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
The dollar can of brake cleaner at Wally World or similar store is worth buying 5 or 6 at a time. It is a cheap and easy way to clean or degrease.
Got some break cleaner from Wally World. Since the gun is brand new - cant I just use Dawn soap?
Got some break cleaner from Wally World. Since the gun is brand new - cant I just use Dawn soap?
Yes you can use Dawn but the brake cleaner will work faster. Be mindful that it will strip all oils away and leave a white haze which is temporary till you treat the surfaces with Frog Lube.
Yes you can use Dawn but the brake cleaner will work faster. Be mindful that it will strip all oils away and leave a white haze which is temporary till you treat the surfaces with Frog Lube.
I just found some gun scrubber here at home.
I am going to use that instead for my project tomorrow.
I have another question:
Do I need to take the bolt apart or can I just spray it down well?
I removed my bolts from the carriers but didn't break the bolt itself down. Course that's your choice on whether to do that or not.
Oil's and greases can sit in the small parts when cleaning if not broken down. like it will pool behind the extractor, etc. Better off breaking down the bolt, etc to be sure. At least the extractor which is just drifting one pin. Don't go too crazy with the paste. Just Put it in the main lube areas. I put it on the bolt (fore and aft of the gas rings). Bolt face (tiny bit to help cleaning, do not dump it in the firing pin channel). Bolt carrier slide are's where it contacts the upper. And cam pin (heavy). Has worked very well this way. I do not coat everything in the way some Frog Lube vids or recommendations say. I feel the lube only belongs where the friction points are. I have tried just coating the BC group and Bolt, but performance seemed much better when performing a full take down. Maybe just perceived, but racking the CH and function testing seems much smoother after a full take down. Keep in mind that I use the paste which does not turn to it's full lube till some heat hits it. Few rounds down range and the past is turned to liquid. But when in paste form and just function testeing the rifle. It does seem much smoother after full parts take down and heat applied Frog Lube.
I used brake cleaner as well to de grease. Did a very good job quickly and is inexpensive.
I second the can of dollar brake cleaner, and suggest the dollar can of motor oil next to it on the shelf.
I second the can of dollar brake cleaner, and suggest the dollar can of motor oil next to it on the shelf.
Dude. Not here. This is M4C! Use the orange search button and you'll learn that you have to use a hair drier, Q-tips, dental picks, latex gloves, brake cleaner, gun scrubber and lint-free cloths to remove the inferior lube from your AR so that you can go through some other [totally worth it] ritual to apply the FROG LUBE to your AR upper and BCG.
Oh yes. Then you'll be naturally lubed with a minty fresh smell, and no pesky petroleum products in case you accidentally ingest some your lube when the SHTF.
And after you fire to clip's without a jam, you can go home and scrape the carbon from your bolt tail for hour's.
:D
Please knock off your nonsense. If you don't want to use Froglube, don't use it.
Dude. Not here. This is M4C! Use the orange search button and you'll learn that you have to use a hair drier, Q-tips, dental picks, latex gloves, brake cleaner, gun scrubber and lint-free cloths to remove the inferior lube from your AR so that you can go through some other [totally worth it] ritual to apply the FROG LUBE to your AR upper and BCG.
Oh yes. Then you'll be naturally lubed with a minty fresh smell, and no pesky petroleum products in case you accidentally ingest some your lube when the SHTF.
And after you fire to clip's without a jam, you can go home and scrape the carbon from your bolt tail for hour's.
:D
I successfully completed the job.
After removing the BCG and then the bolt, i noticed that there was not a huge mess of the OEM lube. The charging handle was also cleaned.
Each part was worked over well with Q-Tips.
I wiped each part with a paper towel and washed it with a toothbrush in a container of Dawn dish soap.
The oil came off easily.
I then dried each part with a hair dryer.
The chamber of the upper was then cleaned with Q-Tips, warm water and Dawn.
4 bore patches were used for the bore.
Then it was time to apply the FrogLube.
Each part was thoroughly heated with the hair dryer and coated with a light coat of FrogLube. The face of the bolt of course was left dry.
The chamber of the upper was lightly coated.
Bore patched with FrogLube were used.
The BCG was assembled and put back into the upper.
I charged it a bunch of times to identify any friction points I may have missed. A couple more drops of FrogLube was applied.
All in all, it was a great success - short of test firing.
I will be cycling some dummy ammo though.
Besides all the help you all have provided, I found a good video here:
"Cleaning an AR-15" - FrogLube used
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=O2ruBXNoVqE#t=1093
Thanks.
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