View Full Version : Cannelure or no cannelure ??????
Just wondering if it is necessary to reload the .223 bullet with a cannelure or not. I was looking at the Hornady polymer tipped bullets and they don't have a cannelure for crimping. :confused:
you don't need a canelure.
the lee FCD allows you to crimp any bullet. whether this is the best thing for accuracy may vary.
also, a lot of people don't bother to crimp for the AR15. i've had good sucess with no crimp. actually got a small accuracy improvement.
if you're talking SHTF or other roughly handled ammo, i'd stick with a crimp.
Just wondering if it is necessary to reload the .223 bullet with a cannelure or not. I was looking at the Hornady polymer tipped bullets and they don't have a cannelure for crimping. :confused:
Cannelure. Yes if it's defensive ammo with out a question I'd crimp and use a cannelure bullet . I've seen and had My own noncannelure bullets back up into the case on many occasions and causing a compressed charge situation and if I didn't down load My plinking rounds it could have been ugly. My old M4 will feed on just about anything that will fit the mag. But if your in tune w/ your gun, you can feel when it doesn't feed or cycle right. And yes SKYUGO is right Lee makes a factory crimp die witch can be bought separate or in the 3 piece deluxe rifle die set. That will lessen the chance of n/c bullets sliding back into the case. Patriot.
+1 on the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
Just be careful to not go too far! Run a couple case through your process without primer/powder then take them apart.
Be sure the FCD is not going deep into the bullet. I had this with some of my loads, plain 55 gr FMJ w/cannelure. When I backed the crimp off a bit this load came down in group size to nearly that of my 69 gr SMK at 200 yards.
+1 on the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
Just be careful to not go too far! Run a couple case through your process without primer/powder then take them apart.
You don't need to do that if you cycle the round up into the die and then dial the die down onto the round. From their you can make incremental adjustments until you get the crimp you want.
Inertia pulling 5.56 rounds with a factory crimp is a bitch. This is because of the relatively low mass of the bullet. Any additional neck tension makes it a pain. I don't do it unless I have to.
You don't need to do that if you cycle the round up into the die and then dial the die down onto the round. From their you can make incremental adjustments until you get the crimp you want.
Inertia pulling 5.56 rounds with a factory crimp is a bitch. This is because of the relatively low mass of the bullet. Any additional neck tension makes it a pain. I don't do it unless I have to.
Yup, I hope anyone reading this thread pays attention to your comments! It would have saved me a whole bunch of time....
+1 on the Lee Factory Crimp Die.
Just be careful to not go too far! Run a couple case through your process without primer/powder then take them apart.
Be sure the FCD is not going deep into the bullet. I had this with some of my loads, plain 55 gr FMJ w/cannelure. When I backed the crimp off a bit this load came down in group size to nearly that of my 69 gr SMK at 200 yards.
I mirror you on that. I'm anal on my reloading to the point that I still use the old lyman SPARTAN T> press. Six holer,not because I don't like the progressive systems but because I like the feel of each cycle. I have an old Redding Commercial system. Sits on the corner bench oiled down with a cover on it.
target4fun
08-20-08, 03:35
I haven't ever had a need to crimp.223 but as long as you dont crimp too much it wont hurt anything.
You don't need to do that if you cycle the round up into the die and then dial the die down onto the round. From their you can make incremental adjustments until you get the crimp you want.
Inertia pulling 5.56 rounds with a factory crimp is a bitch. This is because of the relatively low mass of the bullet. Any additional neck tension makes it a pain. I don't do it unless I have to.
Yup, I hope anyone reading this thread pays attention to your comments! It would have saved me a whole bunch of time....
Funny that I see this today. I just finished setting up my 650 for .223 last night and had the exact same experience. My first seating adjustments were a little too deep and had only a very slight Dillon die crimp into the cannelure. I tried to pull the bullets with my kinetic puller and there was just no chance. Threading the die down onto a cartridge in a closed press and then adjusting down from there is definitely the way to go. For seating I threaded down onto a factory loaded cartridge as a starting point and for crimping I threaded down onto my own loaded cartridge to start. It also helps to lock your lock ring with the press closed so all of the backlash is taken up and everything is in the right place. I will do it this way from now on.
For seating I threaded down onto a factory loaded cartridge as a starting point and for crimping I threaded down onto my own loaded cartridge to start.
You should still back of a bit from a factory round incase the bullet has a different ogive (curve) to it.
It can be significant! Going from M193 to SS109 bullets requires a whold different bullet seat die setting because of the bullet shape. I found this out the hard way not too long ago when I tried to run a small batch of ss109s. :p
You should still back of a bit from a factory round incase the bullet has a different ogive (curve) to it.
It can be significant! Going from M193 to SS109 bullets requires a whold different bullet seat die setting because of the bullet shape. I found this out the hard way not too long ago when I tried to run a small batch of ss109s. :p
Thanks for that suggestion. Fortunately I was dealing with (as nearly as possible, I suppose) identical bullets so it was not an issue this time. I'll make sure to do that in the future.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.