View Full Version : T1 Rheostat Durability ??s
Kindof a dumb question, maybe, but some people also don't know that you apply the parking brake on an automatic before letting off of the brake when you park on a hillside to save stress on the transmission internals (per info from a MOPAR ASE master tech who has had to fix the results numerous times of people no doing so...), so...
is there some special procedure for battery changes with this optic? I have noticed that the easiest way to do it use using a coin, or the tool, and simply rotating the rheostat to "stop" and then torquing closed or open the battery compartment. I have tried to "hold" the wheel, but it takes a bit of balls to TRULY close the compartment, and it's simpler to just rotate the rheostat until it stops and then torque.
Is this a no-no? How durable is whatever "stop" I am pressing against?
Dam that's a good question.
I've never really though about that it could be an issue. I just kind of assumed that's how that was supposed to be.
Dam that's a good question.
I've never really though about that it could be an issue. I just kind of assumed that's how that was supposed to be.
Well, it's a tiny part, and I don't have a damn clue how it's attached or what I'm torquing against. I got to wondering when I tried half-heartedly to take an A1 rear sight apart for the first time, and bent the roll pin a bit before I discovered it had to be removed. I don't want to be torquing against a roll-pin on the T1. but if there is a metal shelf on the wheel which hits another metal shelf, yeah, could probably change batteries with a tire-iron, lol. I just...don't know and want to know.
The trick is to not over tighten the cap in the first place. The cap has an O-ring that not only keeps the battery compartment sealed against environmental hazards but also acts as a thread locker. You can hold the dial with one hand while tightening the cap with the other and only snugging it until the cap bottoms out. If the O-ring starts looking like it's compressed into a triangle type profile or is starting to tear, replace it. Over tightening the cap will probably eventually damage the stops and will damage the O-ring and the threads. Keeping the O-ring in good condition will keep the cap from coming loose
The trick is to not over tighten the cap in the first place. The cap has an O-ring that not only keeps the battery compartment sealed against environmental hazards but also acts as a thread locker. You can hold the dial with one hand while tightening the cap with the other and only snugging it until the cap bottoms out. If the O-ring starts looking like it's compressed into a triangle type profile or is starting to tear, replace it. Over tightening the cap will probably eventually damage the stops and will damage the O-ring and the threads. Keeping the O-ring in good condition will keep the cap from coming loose
You can't over-tighten. You tighten it until it physically bottoms out, aluminum against aluminum. Otherwise you risk the optic glitching out on you under recoil, etc.
Are you seriously saying you can't simply hold the dial with one hand while loosening/tightening the cover with the other?? I don't think its a good idea to tighten against the stop.....just doesn't seem like that will end well.
Are you seriously saying you can't simply hold the dial with one hand while loosening/tightening the cover with the other?? I don't think its a good idea to tighten against the stop.....just doesn't seem like that will end well.
I'm no grip master, but that little wheel doesn't provide much. You need to tighten it down flush.
You can't over-tighten. You tighten it until it physically bottoms out, aluminum against aluminum. Otherwise you risk the optic glitching out on you under recoil, etc.
O ye of little faith. Some trigger pullers are like pilots- they think if a little bit is good, a lot must be better. Just because it bottoms out does not mean some yahoo won't keep torquing it "just so the cap won't back out under recoil". The dial will only turn so far before it hits a physical stop and somebody with ambition can continue to apply torque. If the stop doesn't give way, the threads of the cap and the cup will stretch and distort and will require that much or more torque to undo when it comes time to change the battery
Ok guys, I'll be the one to just ask Aimpoint directly...
O ye of little faith. Some trigger pullers are like pilots- they think if a little bit is good, a lot must be better. Just because it bottoms out does not mean some yahoo won't keep torquing it "just so the cap won't back out under recoil". The dial will only turn so far before it hits a physical stop and somebody with ambition can continue to apply torque. If the stop doesn't give way, the threads of the cap and the cup will stretch and distort and will require that much or more torque to undo when it comes time to change the battery
I just torque it until it stops, and then I stop. During the last 1/4 rotation or so, though, it does take some balls. Enough that I am a touch concerned about what those "stops" actually are.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.