View Full Version : Grip Screw seized up
kermit4161
10-12-13, 14:41
I bought an Umbrella Corp grip as part of an upgrade I was doing on my AR (Spikes lower/BCM upper). I got the grip on, then decided I wasn't liking it as much as I thought I would. However when trying to get the screw out, it seized up about 1-2 turns out. The philips slots stripped out almost immediately... so now I'm stuck.
I have an easy-out kit, but the screw really isn't that meaty to get a good solid hold with the easy-out. I was using the screw supplied with the grip and it had a reddish locktite/threadlocker treatment on it. I'm wondering WTH it was now. It went on easy enough when I installed the grip and I doubt it cross threaded the lower threads.
I am thinking I will have to cut the grip off to get access to the screw... then try vice grips and then the easy-out if the head pulls off...
Any other ideas? I've already soaked it in WD40 without any luck.
Thanks
I had to do also when soms of our geniuses stripped the heads on some of our stuff. Fortunately they were only A2's.
Hope it's not galled threads. If there is no other options, I'd cut the grip off leaving as much screw as possible. If threading it out with a Vise Grip doesn't work, it's doubtful an easy out will. Was there lock tight on the screw? If so, you can try heating it. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to drill it out. I'd under size the bit to try and salvage the threads. You will have to clean them up with a tap. Worst case is a Heli-coil but at the moment I don't recall if there is enough meat on the lower for one. Good luck.
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kermit4161
10-12-13, 15:47
Hope it's not galled threads. If there is no other options, I'd cut the grip off leaving as much screw as possible. If threading it out with a Vise Grip doesn't work, it's doubtful an easy out will. Was there lock tight on the screw? If so, you can try heating it. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to drill it out. I'd under size the bit to try and salvage the threads. You will have to clean them up with a tap. Worst case is a Heli-coil but at the moment I don't recall if there is enough meat on the lower for one. Good luck.
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Thanks. There was some kind of loctite substance on it (reddish). I am going to tear into it later tonight or tomorrow... I am keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have to drill.
Get you some of this. GH
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t414/ghchhisc/DSCN1697_zps49300db4.jpg
Don't forget, you can always use a larger drill bit & drill out the head of the screw through the bottom of the grip. That way you don't have to sacrifice the grip itself in the process.
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Heavy Metal
10-12-13, 16:15
Call me a heratic but I like the hex-head grip screws better.
Strip the receiver, cut the grip, and find someone who can TIG weld. Have them stack beads (weld) on top of the screw head. Then use vise grips to remove it. The heat from beads will kill the Locktite and give you something to grip. The last thing you want to do is break an easy out off in the fastener. Any competent TIG welder should be able to do this. At worst case you can heli coil the hole to the original fastener size.
Strip the receiver, cut the grip, and find someone who can TIG weld. Have them stack beads (weld) on top of the screw head. Then use vise grips to remove it. The heat from beads will kill the Locktite and give you something to grip. The last thing you want to do is break an easy out off in the fastener. Any competent TIG welder should be able to do this. At worst case you can heli coil the hole to the original fastener size.
OVERKILL!!
Use a drill bit to drill the head off the screw, remove the grip, use heat to break down the locking material, and vise-grips to unscrew the remaining shank.
Call me a heratic but I like the hex-head grip screws better.
They are certainly easier to install in my experience. Which brings me to the question of what makes a slotted head screw superior to the hex, or vise versa for that matter.
DreadPirateMoyer
10-12-13, 19:59
The common argument is availability, especially in the field. Almost every multi-tool, toolbox, or SAK has a flathead on or in it. Even battlefield junk can be used as a makeshift flathead. Not so with a hex or torx head.
I'm not sure how much I buy that argument for the average user or how much that really matters, but it's something to take into account.
(for the record, all of mine are flathead for the above reason; I'm a delusional paranoid :))
coastwatcher42
10-12-13, 20:00
I use one of these every time I put on a new grip, works great. I've got 2 in my parts bin waiting for future grip upgrades/builds.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181228630600
I like the slotted head and big honking flat screwdriver. If you do cut the grip away, you might try filing flats on the screwhead and wrenching it out.
The common argument is availability, especially in the field. Almost every multi-tool, toolbox, or SAK has a flathead on or in it. Even battlefield junk can be used as a makeshift flathead. Not so with a hex or torx head.
I'm not sure how much I buy that argument for the average user or how much that really matters, but it's something to take into account.
(for the record, all of mine are flathead for the above reason; I'm a delusional paranoid :))
Had not thought of that and as much as I like the idea of ease of use or servicing my gear, I don't know if I buy into in this case, not with the depth of the grip and that fact that I have had a number of drivers be too short to reach the head of the screw in the past. Suppose it depends on your needs. Given options would likely lean towards a hex head personally just because I find it easier to use.
I like this one...
https://www.lwrci.com/p-325-pistol-grip-hex-bolt.aspx
This is one thing I mention in class and why all of my grips use a standard Colt/ USGI grip screw. I have had people show up that didn't even realize they had a hex screw in their grip and were scrambling to find a wrench or bit.
I can find any crack head and ask for a flat tip screwdriver and he will get one. Not so of xxx size hex wrench.
The common argument is availability, especially in the field. Almost every multi-tool, toolbox, or SAK has a flathead on or in it. Even battlefield junk can be used as a makeshift flathead. Not so with a hex or torx head.
I'm not sure how much I buy that argument for the average user or how much that really matters, but it's something to take into account.
(for the record, all of mine are flathead for the above reason; I'm a delusional paranoid :))
Ironworker46
10-12-13, 21:23
Before you think of drilling the screw out, think about taking it to a machine shop. If it's a quality receiver, it'll be worth having a machinist do the work. They can clamp it up machine the head or what's left of the bolt flush with the receiver, then drill the screw out without damaging the receiver. You might have luck checking with the manaufacturer of your receiver.
IMHO, Magpul is notorious for slotted grip screws that are really, really hard to install, then scary hard to back out when you get the point where you're sure you've cross-threaded it. I've found it necessary to apply heat to melt the thread locker off and use loctite.
I like the cut-the-grip and use vise grips with heat idea.
These grip makers need to quit with the junk screws and thread locker.
Put in a good screw and a star washer, charge an extra dollar or whatever it takes.
coastwatcher42
10-12-13, 22:54
This is one thing I mention in class and why all of my grips use a standard Colt/ USGI grip screw. I have had people show up that didn't even realize they had a hex screw in their grip and were scrambling to find a wrench or bit.
I use allen head grip screws and do the vast majority of my shooting on my farm, so I don't have to worry about having the propper tool. For those occaisional visits to the range or other shooting destinations, a T-handle allen wrench is a permanent occupant of my range bag.
This is SIMPLE to remove. Take a 5/16" drill bit. The stripped out philips will center the bit. Drill until the head pops off. Pull off the grip. Heat the stuck screw shank with a soldering iron until good and hot. Remove with vice grips. It will come out easy.
I would just cut the grip to make the process easier. You didn't like it after all and you probably won't break even on it if it was in good condition.
Different strokes, for different folks.
I use allen head grip screws and do the vast majority of my shooting on my farm, so I don't have to worry about having the propper tool. For those occaisional visits to the range or other shooting destinations, a T-handle allen wrench is a permanent occupant of my range bag.
SilverBullet432
10-14-13, 09:47
red loctite? ouch! Ive made the mistake of applying that to things I now wish I hadnt. Try heating up the bolt itself to try and "melt" the loctite, that ought to remedy things. in cases like these, its the threads in the reciever you dont want to screw up. (no pun intended)
red loctite? ouch! Ive made the mistake of applying that to things I now wish I hadnt. Try heating up the bolt itself to try and "melt" the loctite, that ought to remedy things. in cases like these, its the threads in the reciever you dont want to screw up. (no pun intended)
The OP said "reddish locktite/threadlocker treatment on it" He didn't say or mean RED LOC-TITE. My bet is he used the wrong size bit and stripped the screw head out. If I am correct my suggestion would have it out in 10 seconds. If it is cross threaded the grip will have to be cut and vise grips used work it back and forth. Probably will need a helicoil in the lower after. GH
.
If you're still pondering...Try a 5/16" left handed drill dit. Like said earlier, the phillips head will center the bit. Drill slow so the screw heats up and hopefully it will heat the LocTite up enough to let go. With the left hand bit and hot LocTite, the screw should back out??
If you drill deep enough into the head, the head of the screw will come off. Then, the grip will come off. Then, heat (torch) up a large nail and touch it to the remaining threads to melt the LocTite. You should be able to grab the threads with a pair of vicegrips and life is good again.
If this doesn't work, use it as an excuse to buy a new lower... :)
But maybe its just me...
.
Sparky5019
10-16-13, 05:39
I had the same problem with the #3 Phillips head screw supplied by Umbrella Corp! I had to destroy the grip to get it out without hurting my lower! I called them and they said it took 18 foot pounds of torque to get off but it needed WAY more than that! They sent me a new grip and a screw with no thread compound!
I heated it, cooled it and finally cut the grip off and cut a slot into the screw so I could turn it out.
I like the slotted screws (nice big slots) that BCM uses as they have a star washer on them or the hex head screws better.
Sparky
Umbrella grips come w 2 screws. One uncoated, one red loc tite coated. IMO you shoulda skipped the red loctite coated one, used the uncoated and added a drop of blue loc tite to it. problem solved. I would never stick the red loc tite covered one in one of my lowers lol.
kermit4161
11-30-13, 14:06
Only got the red coated screw with the grip... it is still stuck too. Going to run it up to a local gunsmith next week if I get a chance.
Little embarrassed to say, but I've got a similar issue with an allen headed grip screw that came with a TD Battle Grip. Installed on a Colt lower. I decided I wanted a more substantial grip and tried to remove it. No dice. I guess the Battle Grip isn't so bad after all...:o
Only got the red coated screw with the grip... it is still stuck too. Going to run it up to a local gunsmith next week if I get a chance.
That sucks man. I'd see what Umbrella will do for ya about it. Must be a new thing as mine came with a baggy with one of each, and said use the red coated one for a permanent install and use the other one to "test it out" or something like that. I just threw the red loctited one in the parts bin. Too easy to mess up a good lower and IMO no need to ever use red on anything. Think I'll inquire to why they don't just use blue. Takes some effort to remove when it's really coated, but not close to red.
I had the same problem with the #3 Phillips head screw supplied by Umbrella Corp! I had to destroy the grip to get it out without hurting my lower! I called them and they said it took 18 foot pounds of torque to get off but it needed WAY more than that! They sent me a new grip and a screw with no thread compound!
I heated it, cooled it and finally cut the grip off and cut a slot into the screw so I could turn it out.
I like the slotted screws (nice big slots) that BCM uses as they have a star washer on them or the hex head screws better.
Sparky
Using a 1" diameter screwdriver handle, a stout adult male is maxed out at about 8-12# tq.
Umbrella grips come w 2 screws. One uncoated, one red loc tite coated. IMO you shoulda skipped the red loctite coated one, used the uncoated and added a drop of blue loc tite to it. problem solved. I would never stick the red loc tite covered one in one of my lowers lol.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I had this exact issue last night but I was fortunate enough not to strip the screw. I just put all of my monkey strength behind turning the screw and carefully and slowly backed it out. It literally took me 20 minutes to slowly (mm by mm) back the grip screw out. I was certain that there was something wrong - but the culprit, it seems, was just the red Vibra-Tite (not Loc-Tite) that comes installed on these - A very small dab of Vibra-Tite on a grip screw is a great thing (along with the star washer), but just a tad bit too much and you'll find yourself in this situation. Where Loc-Tite "breaks", Vibra-Tite is gummy and can make screwing and unscrewing quite difficult during the entire swap/install while applied. From now on, I'm going to scrape off any excess threadlocker (if you can see a blob, there's too much, there should just be a fine coating on about 6-8 of the threads or less). Did the OP ever get the problem resolved?
kermit4161
01-05-14, 10:26
I forgot to post back while recovering from surgery... I finally took it in to my gunsmith. It took him a couple of days to get it out since the screw head was pretty messed up. He said the same thing...the threadlocker Umb Corp uses. I remember there being about a 1/4" of the stuff on that screw. The color didn't raise any red flags until I got it fully seated...then I began to wonder.
Cost me $5.00 and the lower threads weren't damaged, so it turned out ok in the end. I have my old Magpul grip back on and will be happy with it.
Thanks for the clirification on Umb Corps thread locker stuff. I will do the same as you recommended if I ever install another one of their grips.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I had this exact issue last night but I was fortunate enough not to strip the screw. I just put all of my monkey strength behind turning the screw and carefully and slowly backed it out. It literally took me 20 minutes to slowly (mm by mm) back the grip screw out. I was certain that there was something wrong - but the culprit, it seems, was just the red Vibra-Tite (not Loc-Tite) that comes installed on these - A very small dab of Vibra-Tite on a grip screw is a great thing (along with the star washer), but just a tad bit too much and you'll find yourself in this situation. Where Loc-Tite "breaks", Vibra-Tite is gummy and can make screwing and unscrewing quite difficult during the entire swap/install while applied. From now on, I'm going to scrape off any excess threadlocker (if you can see a blob, there's too much, there should just be a fine coating on about 6-8 of the threads or less). Did the OP ever get the problem resolved?
Thanks for the clirification on Umb Corps thread locker stuff. I will do the same as you recommended if I ever install another one of their grips.
No problem - always follow these rules when using Vibra-Tite and you won't have this issue again. If used correctly, I prefer it vastly over blue Loc-Tite and it's reusable to boot. Plus, the ability to pre-apply it to your screws can save a lot of time in the construction process. The only threadlocker I use on my weapons now is red Vibra-Tite on my grip screws, BUIS, scope rings, light mounts, BAD levers, Noveske STS-60 levers, screw-in style handstops, modular rail sections, and A1/A2/Magpul UBR stock screws.
Averageman
01-05-14, 13:28
I forgot to post back while recovering from surgery... I finally took it in to my gunsmith. It took him a couple of days to get it out since the screw head was pretty messed up. He said the same thing...the threadlocker Umb Corp uses. I remember there being about a 1/4" of the stuff on that screw. The color didn't raise any red flags until I got it fully seated...then I began to wonder.
Cost me $5.00 and the lower threads weren't damaged, so it turned out ok in the end. I have my old Magpul grip back on and will be happy with it.
Thanks for the clirification on Umb Corps thread locker stuff. I will do the same as you recommended if I ever install another one of their grips.
I hate that stuff having had an issue with it before, I am now a big fan of T Handles a star washer and Allen headed bolts.
That red stuff is the devils own spooge.
Guns-up.50
01-05-14, 14:37
These grip makers need to quit with the junk screws and thread locker.
Put in a good screw and a star washer, charge an extra dollar or whatever it takes.
BCM, mod 1,2,3
I had the same issue with my tango down, found an over sized torx bit tapped it in the slowly removed it .
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I had this exact issue last night but I was fortunate enough not to strip the screw. I just put all of my monkey strength behind turning the screw and carefully and slowly backed it out. It literally took me 20 minutes to slowly (mm by mm) back the grip screw out. I was certain that there was something wrong - but the culprit, it seems, was just the red Vibra-Tite (not Loc-Tite) that comes installed on these - A very small dab of Vibra-Tite on a grip screw is a great thing (along with the star washer), but just a tad bit too much and you'll find yourself in this situation. Where Loc-Tite "breaks", Vibra-Tite is gummy and can make screwing and unscrewing quite difficult during the entire swap/install while applied. From now on, I'm going to scrape off any excess threadlocker (if you can see a blob, there's too much, there should just be a fine coating on about 6-8 of the threads or less). Did the OP ever get the problem resolved?
Umbrella seems to have since changed this. The most recent Grip 23 I got had some silver looking compound on it and just included that one screw. Different than my FDE grip 23 that had both a red locktited screw and a plain one (with a note about the loctite). My black grip 23 just came with a regular one. I just used the tip of a knife pressed against it, and spun the screw until all of it was removed. From there added my own blue loc tite and issue resolved. I almost never use anything with pre-applied thread locker and just remove it before use.
Robb Jensen
01-05-14, 21:57
Use a soldering iron held against the head of the grip screw head for 15min. If it's got red loc tite maybe 20min.
My Umbrella Corp grip came with silver stuff on it. I took it off and simply used a star washer. Never failed me. Too many heart pounding experiences to put thread locker coated screws in there anymore.
Blankwaffe
01-08-14, 16:30
On the grip screws Ive had from aftermarket companies,and a few manufacturers, that have had the thread lock compound on the screws I simply run a thread chaser down the screw,hose with CLP and wipe clean.This also helps eliminate any issues with thread pitch,or rough cut threads, discrepancy found on some of the screws before it even gets close to the lower.
On rifles or grips supplied with hex head cap screws,in the past Ive simply cut a slot in the head to fit a flat blade driver....and can use either if needed in a pinch.
On rifles or grips supplied with hex head cap screws,in the past Ive simply cut a slot in the head to fit a flat blade driver....and can use either if needed in a pinch.
FYI I recently got a Magpul grip (MOE+) that came with a hex-head fastener which had a flat-head slot as well.
Blankwaffe
01-08-14, 20:29
FYI I recently got a Magpul grip (MOE+) that came with a hex-head fastener which had a flat-head slot as well.
Thanks for the heads up, and I'd say two thumbs up to Magpul.About time somebody did it.
Guntrician
01-10-14, 19:48
Thanks for the heads up, and I'd say two thumbs up to Magpul.About time somebody did it.
Agree with that. One thing is for sure. Any grip I get that comes with screw that has pre-applied thread locker, whether it's hex or slot screw, I heat it up and remove the thread locker with a wire wheel. I screw the grip screw in and out without the pistol grip once. Then a star washer and blue loc-tite.
Either one of these should solve the immediate problem. I have used these in the past and they both work quite well.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NNMZN8/ref=asc_df_B001NNMZN82932917?smid=A1L3CQ37JES30&tag=dealtmp649332-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B001NNMZN8
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952154000P?srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=33-248745615-2&sid=IDx20070921x00003d
E-DUB
Averageman
01-12-14, 06:41
I occasionally deal with broken bolts and screws. The thing you don't want to do is get in a hurry and make a mistake a lot worse than it already is.
Because we are dealing with such a tight space, inside a pistol grip; unless you want to get really crazy with the whole thing and risk some equipment and at worse case really screw up a lower; take your time and use the right tools.
Remove the upper from the lower
I would inspect the screw and decide if it is possible to work it back out. Usually if you are working a flat tip screwdriver and have stripped the head it may be only stripped in one direction.
Get some light on the subject, can the screw be worked out in the opposite direction?
1) Yes? Secure the weapons lower in a padded vise and attempt to work the screw out slowly with maximum force being applied down and twisting to the left. Works best with chimp type strength and a few bad words.
2) No?
A) Carefully Center punch the screw in as close to the exact center of the screw head.
You need a drill, preferably a drill press with a vise on the deck and lots of light.
B) Chuck up a 1/4 inch long shank drill bit in your vise
Check your drill bit and vise again everything tight?
C) Carefully and without using power lower the bit inside the grip and check your position.
Apply a drop of oil to the screw head and drills bit.
You want the tip of the bit to hit the exact center of where your center punch marked the screw.
D) Retract the bit 3/8ths of an inch away from the screw head and turn on your drill.
Check that the tip of your drill will hit the exact center of the position you made with the punch.
E) Lower the bit with light pressure, you're going to move the bit about 1/16th .
At this point the screws head should zip off like a button and wrap in to the drill bit.
F) Remove the lower from the vise. Pull the grip from the screw. and inspect.
If the screws shank is center to the lower receiver you are good to go, proceed.
If it is off center and wobbley cocked, you need a machinist and a wallet with credit cards,
G) Unless you need a Machinist, lets proceed.
You will need a set of 10 inch vise grips and a soldering iron or heat gun; preferably a soldering iron.
H) if working with a heat gun apply the heat in accordance to this temp and spec.
Red Locktite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf so 400 degrees.
If working with a soldering iron apply the tip directly to the screw and give it about 10 minutes of
heat .
I) Adjust your Vise grips to the screws shank and tighten and turn slowly and carefully.
Now we are unscrewing the broken shank, but lets first move right to tighten and then left .
to loosen until the bolt is free. As soon as you have freedom of movement proceed quickly.
Otherwise you may need to heat it again.
I occasionally deal with broken bolts and screws. The thing you don't want to do is get in a hurry and make a mistake a lot worse than it already is.
Because we are dealing with such a tight space, inside a pistol grip; unless you want to get really crazy with the whole thing and risk some equipment and at worse case really screw up a lower; take your time and use the right tools.
Remove the upper from the lower
I would inspect the screw and decide if it is possible to work it back out. Usually if you are working a flat tip screwdriver and have stripped the head it may be only stripped in one direction.
Get some light on the subject, can the screw be worked out in the opposite direction?
1) Yes? Secure the weapons lower in a padded vise and attempt to work the screw out slowly with maximum force being applied down and twisting to the left. Works best with chimp type strength and a few bad words.
2) No?
A) Carefully Center punch the screw in as close to the exact center of the screw head.
You need a drill, preferably a drill press with a vise on the deck and lots of light.
B) Chuck up a 1/4 inch long shank drill bit in your vise
Check your drill bit and vise again everything tight?
C) Carefully and without using power lower the bit inside the grip and check your position.
Apply a drop of oil to the screw head and drills bit.
You want the tip of the bit to hit the exact center of where your center punch marked the screw.
D) Retract the bit 3/8ths of an inch away from the screw head and turn on your drill.
Check that the tip of your drill will hit the exact center of the position you made with the punch.
E) Lower the bit with light pressure, you're going to move the bit about 1/16th .
At this point the screws head should zip off like a button and wrap in to the drill bit.
F) Remove the lower from the vise. Pull the grip from the screw. and inspect.
If the screws shank is center to the lower receiver you are good to go, proceed.
If it is off center and wobbley cocked, you need a machinist and a wallet with credit cards,
G) Unless you need a Machinist, lets proceed.
You will need a set of 10 inch vise grips and a soldering iron or heat gun; preferably a soldering iron.
H) if working with a heat gun apply the heat in accordance to this temp and spec.
Red Locktite. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf so 400 degrees.
If working with a soldering iron apply the tip directly to the screw and give it about 10 minutes of
heat .
I) Adjust your Vise grips to the screws shank and tighten and turn slowly and carefully.
Now we are unscrewing the broken shank, but lets first move right to tighten and then left .
to loosen until the bolt is free. As soon as you have freedom of movement proceed quickly.
Otherwise you may need to heat it again.
Wowzers talk about making a simple task overly comlex. First... don't put screws in with thread locking compound in the first place. Second, if you already did, just cut the grip off and remove with a vice, or vice grips, or best yet, just take it to a gunsmith, have it removed for a couple bucks, then send the bill off to the company you got the part from to begin with.
This isn't rocket science. If you can't get it out with a vice or vicegrips IMO it's best just to have a shop deal w it, that way any damage to the lower due to removal would be covered by the shop. No need to start taking drills, dremels, plasma cutters and flux capicators to the bolt to get it out.
Averageman
01-13-14, 06:58
It's really not that difficult and the way I explained it is probobly exactly what your "Gunsmith" is going to do.
This takes less than fifteen minutes to do and will probobly save your grip and about $50.00 as opposed to taking it to someone else to do. I know it looks complicated, but having the skills and tools I would much rather fix my own stuff rather than being dependant on someone else.
No need to start taking drills, dremels, plasma cutters and flux capicators to the bolt to get it out.
And what would be the fun in that?
I don't know why there's all the threadlocker hate in this thread, but I like the added security that it provides. I always use the star washer too, but a careful application of the proper threadlocker will not magically and permanently lock your grip screw into your receiver. Just use common sense and this shouldn't happen.
Averageman
01-13-14, 09:18
I dont hate Lock-tite but the preaapplied vibra-tite or whatever it is called seems to be preapplied to a lot of equipment.
That stuff is just pure evil and I wouldn't use it on any of my gear. I don't have an issue with Lock-tite and having owned a couple of older British motorcycles I can assure you it has a lot of uses and when used correctly it wont give you the headaches this vibra-tite stuff seems to.
I also like the allen head bolts because they are a known quality, I believe all allen head bolts are at least a grade 8 fastener. That and a drop of Blue Lock-tite and your in business, but I've always got T-Handles available and keep a set in my range bag.
EzGoingKev
01-13-14, 15:20
I believe all allen head bolts are at least a grade 8 fastener.
This is not correct.
Let me get this straight?
Umbrella ships their grip with a Phillips screw???
Let me get this straight?
Umbrella ships their grip with a Phillips screw???
Yes, which IMO is awesome. I fracking hate hex screws. Flatheads are good but can be and uneeded pita to get on if you happen to only have an odd size flathead on hand. Phillips goes in easy, and is big enough many small flatheads will also seat up.
I cut a couple small lines on mine so both normal flats and phillips will work.
Yes, which IMO is awesome. I fracking hate hex screws. Flatheads are good but can be and uneeded pita to get on if you happen to only have an odd size flathead on hand. Phillips goes in easy, and is big enough many small flatheads will also seat up.
I cut a couple small lines on mine so both normal flats and phillips will work.
I do not concur,
Phillips is just as bad as hex in the sense mentioned above about not being able to find a tool in a hurry, with the added bonus of it being easy to accidentally strip as what happened in this case.
Go flat head or go home.
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