View Full Version : Bushmaster Carbine - Change Parts?
I've heard/read a ton from Colt AR15 fans regarding the other AR makers "low quality". Some folks suggest replacing the some of the "cheap" parts but I've not seen much in the way of specifics.
1) So what parts if any need/should be replaced in a Bushmaster carbine?
2) Why?
I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
I'm no expert but if I was buying a complete, off-the-shelf, Bushmaster I would do the following:
1) Ensure the front sight isn't canted.
2) Replace the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) with a Colt or a M16 CMT MP'd unit.
3) Ensure the gas key bolts are properly staked
4) Add a Crane O-Ring or Defender
5) Replace the buffer with an H buffer
6) Replace the plastic trigger guard with a Magpul unit
Some of the optional things I would look at would be:
- Replace the buttstock with a Vltor or LMT Crane unit.
Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks.... ;)
Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks.... ;)
That's my original plan, I'd just like to see what the good folks here think should be replaced and why.
I'm big on the why part.
Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks....
hahahaha :D
Patrick Aherne
09-07-06, 23:09
Buy ammo, take classes and maybe buy some spare parts, like a fitted bolt. If you use a single-point sling, either stake or locktite the buffer tube castle nut. Check your stakes on the gas key. Other than that, shoot the poop out of it. If it doesn't work, send it back to Bushampster and make them fix it.
Lube your rifle, well, with a good lube like Slip 2000.
If I were to start over, I would either get a Colt's or complete LMT rifle. But, if I had a Bushmaster, I wouldn't worry if it worked well.
What you have to remember is that you are paying about $2-300 dollars more for a Colt for the extra QC; if you get a Bushmaster, you're doing the in-field QC testing.
Shoot it and find out what happens - we've got Bushmasters at work with 5K-8K rounds with (after the carriers and buttstocks are properly staked) nothing more than spring and gas ring changes.
I'm no expert but if I was buying a complete, off-the-shelf, Bushmaster I would do the following:
1) Ensure the front sight isn't canted.
2) Replace the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) with a Colt or a M16 CMT MP'd unit.
3) Ensure the gas key bolts are properly staked
4) Add a Crane O-Ring or Defender
5) Replace the buffer with an H buffer
6) Replace the plastic trigger guard with a Magpul unit
Some of the optional things I would look at would be:
- Replace the buttstock with a Vltor or LMT Crane unit.
May I ask why would you replace the above parts?
Wayne Dobbs
09-08-06, 23:58
So you know your gun will run reliably is the short answer.
Looking through the forum, there are several threads that address this issue from one angle or another of what brand is OK/Tier 1?; what parts do I need to change?; is Bushmaster good or bad? and on and on.
We take our stances and the dealers come out and say their lower than Tier 1 guns or parts are "as good as Colt" or "run alongside Colt" etc. and some of the time all of us are right...and some of the time some of us are dead wrong.
It looks like that we don't ask the right questions about what we want the gun for and why we are building it or modifying like we are. The first question that we should always ask about a gun, a part or other gear is: What is it for? Is my life hanging on this part or gun's performance? Is this a toy or a life saving tool? THAT, I submit, is where we're going wrong. If you're buying or putting together a rifle for shooting at the range, blasting coke cans, etc. then buy whatever cheap crap you want and that way you'll get to learn how to clear malfunctions, tinker, repair and replace all the time.
On the other hand, if your life (or others lives) is/are going to be entrusted to the performance of the weapon, you'd better buy the best and take great care of it. Your rifle MUST work on demand every time under whatever conditions exist at that unexpected time that things go into the toilet! You are, or should be, a Tier 1 (Colt) customer of either completed rifles or genuine parts to replace the lower end crap in your economy rifle. Buying cheap to protect your life can become the ultimate expense....so don't do it. We reviewed in another thread this week an example of the fact that it's no less expensive to go ahead and buy the Colt instead of buying a BM or other and then replacing the substandard (for defending your life and others) parts with Colt/Tier 1 ones that are what they should be as far as KNOWN quality characteristics.
Remember, for some of you, it's a "toy".....for others of us it's just our life on the table. Make your choices wisely.
Or another option is to run it stock for about 12 years and run about 12K thru it until something breaks.... ;)
While mine's only 8yrs old, it is pushing the 30-35K mark and all I've ever changed is a buffer spring, and the only reason I changed that is because I had an extra one laying around. The only problems I've ever had were mag or ammo related, nothing rifle related.
So you know your gun will run reliably is the short answer.
Looking through the forum, there are several threads that address this issue from one angle or another of what brand is OK/Tier 1?; what parts do I need to change?; is Bushmaster good or bad? and on and on.
We take our stances and the dealers come out and say their lower than Tier 1 guns or parts are "as good as Colt" or "run alongside Colt" etc. and some of the time all of us are right...and some of the time some of us are dead wrong.
It looks like that we don't ask the right questions about what we want the gun for and why we are building it or modifying like we are. The first question that we should always ask about a gun, a part or other gear is: What is it for? Is my life hanging on this part or gun's performance? Is this a toy or a life saving tool? THAT, I submit, is where we're going wrong. If you're buying or putting together a rifle for shooting at the range, blasting coke cans, etc. then buy whatever cheap crap you want and that way you'll get to learn how to clear malfunctions, tinker, repair and replace all the time.
On the other hand, if your life (or others lives) is/are going to be entrusted to the performance of the weapon, you'd better buy the best and take great care of it. Your rifle MUST work on demand every time under whatever conditions exist at that unexpected time that things go into the toilet! You are, or should be, a Tier 1 (Colt) customer of either completed rifles or genuine parts to replace the lower end crap in your economy rifle. Buying cheap to protect your life can become the ultimate expense....so don't do it. We reviewed in another thread this week an example of the fact that it's no less expensive to go ahead and buy the Colt instead of buying a BM or other and then replacing the substandard (for defending your life and others) parts with Colt/Tier 1 ones that are what they should be as far as KNOWN quality characteristics.
Remember, for some of you, it's a "toy".....for others of us it's just our life on the table. Make your choices wisely.
My carbine will see a lot more use on the range than it will for saving my life, at least I hope so. Then again the same goes for my Glock 29 and 20.
Should I need it for life saving situations and I have time or have an idea trouble is coming a rifle or carbine will be my 1st choice.
So I should replace all the BCG and the other parts mentioned above. But with what brand? There are tons of them out there.
I will try to search the forum for the "whys" but I find it curious that there no specific failures were attached to replacing a certain part. I've begun to form the opinion that most people "heard of it from someone who heard of it....." being a problem.
I've had my BM for a bit less than a year now, I've put a bit over 500 rds through it. I don't think I need to work on it that much because of the years I spend in the Marine Corps infantry has give me a level of intimacy with the M16 platforms. I will continue to work with it as needed and will let the good folks here know if I have any trouble with it that are not mag related. Those mags are evil with any AR/M16.
I've heard/read a ton from Colt AR15 fans regarding the other AR makers "low quality". Some folks suggest replacing the some of the "cheap" parts but I've not seen much in the way of specifics. 1) So what parts if any need/should be replaced in a Bushmaster carbine?
2) Why? I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
I support a bunch of Bushmasters (mostly carbines) in LE venues, and have owned several in the past. My list of minimums:
-Check FSB for cant
-Restake carrier keys
-Install correct carbine extractor spring assembly (or Crane, SAW, etc)
-Replace PG allen screw with slotted screw
-Gauge pertinents
-Live fire function verification (500+/- rounds)
I've found that guns that get this PM and pass the live fire usually will stay quite serviceable in light-moderate LE applications.
In higher intensity uses, I'd add replacement of the bolt, gas tube, and bolt stop, perhaps some the FCG components as well.
ETA: Stake the receiver extension nut to the end plate.
I support a bunch of Bushmasters (mostly carbines) in LE venues, and have owned several in the past. My list of minimums:
-Check FSB for cant
-Restake carrier keys
-Install correct carbine extractor spring assembly (or Crane, SAW, etc)
-Replace PG allen screw with slotted screw
-Gauge pertinents
-Live fire function verification (500+/- rounds)
I've found that guns that get this PM and pass the live fire usually will stay quite serviceable in light-moderate LE applications.
In higher intensity uses, I'd add replacement of the bolt, gas tube, and bolt stop, perhaps some the FCG components as well.
Thanks for the feedback.
My FSB is good, so good I am running 4 clicks Right from mech zero on the rear sight and hold quite a respectable group at 200 yards.
The carrier key screws are staked in 2 places for each screw, pretty solid looking to me. And at 500 + rounds no issue to date.
I've had no extraction issues so I'll assume the extractor is good to go, it has a little blue insert under the spring.
What is the PG allen screw?
So far so good with my Bushie. I'm going out tomorrow to help a buddy zero his. I know my zero with Q3131 and I'm going to zero with an M855 type round. My plan is to record the data for each, laminate it and keep it in the gun case. I should also do the same for some thing like American Eagle .223 Rem ammo. Just to know the 200 yard zero.
I like to zero at 200 yards with the rear drum at 8/3 minus 2 clicks. Then there's absolutly no excuses at 100 yards. It's all me.
My FSB is good, so good I am running 4 clicks Right from mech zero on the rear sight and hold quite a respectable group at 200 yards.
4> is great.
And at 500 + rounds no issue to date.
FWIW, I like all 500 to go downrange in one session, in practical drills, getting the gun hot and dirty.
I've had no extraction issues so I'll assume the extractor is good to go, it has a little blue insert under the spring.
That's a rifle extractor spring assembly. Swap it out for a carbine assembly at a minimum. Cheap insurance. Bushmaster refuses to put the correct one in.
What is the PG allen screw?
PG= pistol grip. Bushy uses an allen head. Service guns should have a slot head. Slotted drivers are found worldwide, and easily improvised when not. Why not eliminate the need for a special tool.
Witness the frequency of the "what size is the..." questions in the various troubleshooting forums.
So far so good with my Bushie.
Glad to hear it. If you're having good luck, you'll likely continue to do so with a few caveats.
I like to zero at 200 yards with the rear drum at 8/3 minus 2 clicks. Then there's absolutly no excuses at 100 yards.
I prefer a 50yd zero with the large aperture, ignoring the elevation wheel, for its simplicity. YMMV
4> is great.
FWIW, I like all 500 to go downrange in one session, in practical drills, getting the gun hot and dirty.
That's a rifle extractor spring assembly. Swap it out for a carbine assembly at a minimum. Cheap insurance. Bushmaster refuses to put the correct one in.
PG= pistol grip. Bushy uses an allen head. Service guns should have a slot head. Slotted drivers are found worldwide, and easily improvised when not. Why not eliminate the need for a special tool.
Glad to hear it. If you're having good luck, you'll likely continue to do so with a few caveats.
I prefer a 50yd zero with the large aperture, ignoring the elevation wheel, for its simplicity. YMMV
I know a lot of guys zero at 50 or 100, but the flight path of the bullet is so close under 300 yards it really makes no difference. Hell in the off hand if I could hold sub one inch groups at 100 yards I guess I'd care. However, I've found that 75% of marksmanship is confidence once you have the basics down.
Thanks for the detail. Now how do I know I'm getting a carbine extractor?
Do you have a good maker or web site to order one from?
I'm thinking of getting some spare parts but all I can think of to get is a firing pin and extractor. If the entire bolt takes a crap, well BM will be hearing from me.
I understand what you mean about a slotted screw head. I've already replaced the A2 style PG for a CAA unit. I like it a lot.
Witness the frequency of the "what size is the..." questions in the various troubleshooting forums.
Thanks for the detail. Now how do I know I'm getting a carbine extractor? Do you have a good maker or web site to order one from?
Read up on the various descriptors, options, and vendors https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=435
I'm thinking of getting some spare parts but all I can think of to get is a firing pin and extractor. If the entire bolt takes a crap, well BM will be hearing from me.
FWIW, I stock at least one complete set of internals for each system in use, plus multiples of the most frequently replaced parts. I believe there are other posts on spare parts recommendations.
I can't get that thread up, what forum was it under?
I can't get that thread up, what forum was it under?
Fixed.
(It's also a sticky up top.)
Fixed.
(It's also a sticky up top.)
Many thanks.
May I ask why would you replace the above parts?
Sorry for the delay, I haven’t had a chance to sit down and type out a reply until now.
Wayne hit the nail on the head when he said the reason is to ensure your carbine runs reliably. Now, how did I identify those parts? It’s simple; I listen to what guys like Pat Rogers say, I observe the issues I’ve seen in training classes and I test (when I have time) to see what works and what doesn’t.
Right off the bat Bushmaster is infamous for canted front sight bases and loose gas keys so take care of those issues right away. As a side note the only gas key I’ve ever had an issue with is a Colt gas key so my recommendation isn’t just for Bushmasters but for every carrier you own.
The other things like the H buffer, O-Ring or Defender and heavy extractor springs are items I run on all my carbines. They have been proven to increase reliability so I use them exclusively. I like the weight of the M16 carrier as well but that’s personal preference. Items like the stock and Magpul trigger guard are personal preference as well.
My recommendations weren’t directed at Bushmaster per say but any carbine you might rely on one day. When I pick up my Colt 6920 I’ll give it a once over as well; I’ll restake the gas key, ensure the receiver end plate/castle nut is properly staked, ensure it has an H buffer, add a Defender, clean and lube, test fire, sight in, and run a reliability check (4-5 mag dump) just to be sure she’s ready to roll out-of-the-box. The items above are just tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years and most (except the personal preference suggestions) have indeed proven themselves to be worthwhile upgrades/enhancements. They might not be necessary but think of them as added insurance.
Sorry for the delay, I haven’t had a chance to sit down and type out a reply until now.
Wayne hit the nail on the head when he said the reason is to ensure your carbine runs reliably. Now, how did I identify those parts? It’s simple; I listen to what guys like Pat Rogers say, I observe the issues I’ve seen in training classes and I test (when I have time) to see what works and what doesn’t.
Right off the bat Bushmaster is infamous for canted front sight bases and loose gas keys so take care of those issues right away. As a side note the only gas key I’ve ever had an issue with is a Colt gas key so my recommendation isn’t just for Bushmasters but for every carrier you own.
The other things like the H buffer, O-Ring or Defender and heavy extractor springs are items I run on all my carbines. They have been proven to increase reliability so I use them exclusively. I like the weight of the M16 carrier as well but that’s personal preference. Items like the stock and Magpul trigger guard are personal preference as well.
My recommendations weren’t directed at Bushmaster per say but any carbine you might rely on one day. When I pick up my Colt 6920 I’ll give it a once over as well; I’ll restake the gas key, ensure the receiver end plate/castle nut is properly staked, ensure it has an H buffer, add a Defender, clean and lube, test fire, sight in, and run a reliability check (4-5 mag dump) just to be sure she’s ready to roll out-of-the-box. The items above are just tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years and most (except the personal preference suggestions) have indeed proven themselves to be worthwhile upgrades/enhancements. They might not be necessary but think of them as added insurance.
Thanks a bunch for the detailed answer.
Mine is OK on the front sight assembly and the gas key seems to be good to go. Over 500 yds, no problems.
Now for the other parts...... I've heard the 16" carbines cycle the BCG at a higher speed than thet standard AR/M16. True?
I gather the mods you recomend are to:
A) Put more tention on the case during extraction?
B) Slow the cycle speed of the BCG with a heavy buffer?
I take it those items you recomend are listed by the brand names so I can ID them with ease?
Thanks again!
The Crane O ring and Defender are brands (Crane is actually a command) but any of the dealers here can get you pointed in the right direction. An H buffer denotes the weight of a buffer; LMT and Colt make them.
The heavier buffer and M16 do indeed slow the cycling down. It helps smooth things out.
The Crane O ring and Defender are brands (Crane is actually a command) but any of the dealers here can get you pointed in the right direction. An H buffer denotes the weight of a buffer; LMT and Colt make them.
The heavier buffer and M16 do indeed slow the cycling down. It helps smooth things out.
Thanks for the straight up info.
One more quesiton if I could.
Does slowing the cycle rate decrease the limited recoil of the 5.56, aiding in follow up shots as well as inproving extraction reliabiliy?
Thanks for the straight up info.
One more quesiton if I could.
Does slowing the cycle rate decrease the limited recoil of the 5.56, aiding in follow up shots as well as inproving extraction reliabiliy?
Slowing the cyclic rate does NOT decrease recoil, but generally to get the rate down, you would use a heavier buffer. This DOES reduce felt recoil. A heavier buffer will also allow for faster follow up shots IMHO.
C4
Slowing the cyclic rate does NOT decrease recoil, but generally to get the rate down, you would use a heavier buffer. This DOES reduce felt recoil. A heavier buffer will also allow for faster follow up shots IMHO.
C4
I figured the heavy buffer would slow the cycle rate and decrease recoil just a bit.
I also noticed my extractor when cleaning. I did see some brass shavings under the extractor. I take it this is a symtom of the slippage you guys are refering to. I've had no extraction issue to this point and well over 500 rds fired.
Some report heavier buffers increase recoil, or at least muzzle rise. Some competition guns run adjustable gas blocks with lightweight BCGs. They recoil pretty quickly but they stay on target. Very similar to comp handguns running LW springs. They cycle quickly but they stay on target.
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1916&stc=1&d=1158206034
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1917&stc=1&d=1158206034
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1918&stc=1&d=1158206034
Hoplophile
09-14-06, 00:52
Some competition guns run adjustable gas blocks with lightweight BCGs.
Some of those are running ammo loaded so light that the weapon won't function with normal weight parts.
Robb Jensen
09-14-06, 05:58
Some of those are running ammo loaded so light that the weapon won't function with normal weight parts.
Exactly. If this is a carbine used for defensive and training purposes I highly recommend a H2, H3 or Enidine buffer w/ISMI springs, carbines are cycling too fast already.
Making a carbine cycle faster by using a lighter carrrier & buffer is counter productive to reliability.
In a competition gun some do use the adjustable gas blocks and JP or other lightened carriers and buffers. I tried an adjustable gas block and JP lighter carrier and buffer in my 3 gun 20" AR and I couldn't get it to run correctly. I then Rocksetted the gas block fully open, I run a JP full weight stainless carrier and a rifle length Enidine buffer. The theory is that a lightened carrier and buffer will produce less felt recoil because of the lighter mass moving in the gun and because it's in motion for a shorter amount of time. Honestly I couldn't feel much difference and I shoot about 1K rounds ever 2 months in this gun. It's running 100% now. I use factory loaded American Eagle 55gr FMJ in it for matches.
I've heard/read a ton from Colt AR15 fans regarding the other AR makers "low quality". Some folks suggest replacing the some of the "cheap" parts but I've not seen much in the way of specifics.
1) So what parts if any need/should be replaced in a Bushmaster carbine?
2) Why?
I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
I was very Skeptical about buying a Bushmaster back in 2000
I was a COLT ONLY GUY
I was lucky with my 2 BUSHMASTERS
My Bushy Shorty eats all different types of 223/5.56 ALL UP
I have under 5000 rds FIRED without a single malfuntion!!
the Same with my bushy 20 hbar
I SOLD the Bushy 20HBAR because I needed some extra cash
Still have the Bushy Shorty A1 ( but put the upper away )
Back in Feb 06 I bought a LMT14.5 M4 upper to replace the Shorty Upper
I also added a VLTOR and a 551 EOTECH
I like this set up alot better than the Shorty upper because its LITE
BTW the LMT has M 4 ramps and a 1/7 twist
Since the LMT M4 upper rans so good
I ennded up buying a Complete LMT M4 w/ SOPMOD stock
I wouldnt change anything with your Bushmaster.
Mine ran fine as is.
Maybe a VLTOR or SOPMOD stock
and if you MUST then just buy a LMT M4 Upper they are CLOSE to COLT Quality
Some of those are running ammo loaded so light that the weapon won't function with normal weight parts.
Do competition guns have to meet a power factor? If so, what kind of velocity is needed for a 55 grain load?
ETA: Just looked up IPSC rules and to make minor (150 PF), you'd need to load to about 2730 fps for a 55 grain pill. That's about 250 fps under 16" barrel spec velocity for XM-193, and probably around Wolf/Federal AE spec loadings.
Not suggesting someone outfit their fighting carbine with JP stuff, I was just commenting on the change in recoil from going either heavier or lighter than stock.
Pic&Shovel6
09-20-06, 15:22
Thanks...
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1916&stc=1&d=1158206034
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1917&stc=1&d=1158206034
http://www.warriortalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1918&stc=1&d=1158206034
Well so far I've got just over 1K rds though my BM carbine and it's only 11 months old. No problems at all, no internal parts replaced.
BTW, like your sig line. ;)
docsprague
10-16-06, 14:43
I changed out my extractor spring with the Crane spring and black oring. I replaced the buffer with a H2. I also replaced the front sight post with a taller version so I could get the 50yrd zero. This was all on a 14.5 in M4gery.
deadwood83
10-16-06, 16:50
I've run 2000+ rounds through my Bushy (about 700 while stock) and never had a problem. FSB was straight, correct height for the A3 flattop, BCG had correctly staked key, came with H-marked buffer (I replaced it withan Endine buffer and Wolff spring,) and the buffer tube was even Mil-Spec! However there was still the BM sized stock on the Mil-Spec tube (making a VERY loose fit), the castle nut wasn't staked to the end plate (fine with me, I swapped out the stock for a M93B anyway), the PG screw was allen-head (again fine with me, allen-head doesn't slip like slotted. plus this IS a varmint rifle.) The extractor is a rifle extractor but it has functioned flawlessly, even ejecting stubborn ammo like PCA. Fit ov the BCG is great. Also, the BCG is odd in that it's the full-size M16 carrier with shrouded firing pin and all. I bought the rifle new from Cabela's (it's the 16" Patrolman's carbine) and it was inside.
Now, about M4 feed ramps and 1/7 barrel twists. I believe M4 feedramps to be useless unless firing SP ammo or using the rifle in dangerous situations. 1/7 barrels don't give 45gr bullets any chance at all. In my experience, the lighter varmint and plinking loads fly apart and don't even make it 50 yards. 1/9 will stabilize up to a 69gr FMJ or equivalent length bullet. M855's shouldn't be used in a 1/9 barrel as they are very long (steel core as opposed to lead) and usually don't shoot as well as Q131 accuracy speaking.
Now, don't start worrying about problems if it isn't a duty rifle. Bushmaster customer service is EXCELLENT! 2 friends had to send rifles back for various reasons (could be considered nitpicking and not actually covered by the warantee) and Bushmaster sent them a box, shipping label, and paid for UPS to pick it up and 3-day it to Maine. Both were returned within a week of shipping them off and the rifles had everything fixed up perfectly with no tool marks or anything.
Another cust-serv experience was when my brother drilled through my trigger and broke off a tap in it. (he didn't do it with my permission) I phoned up Bushmaster and they sent me a new trigger free of charge and I get to keep/throw away the old one. The only company i've dealt with whose cust-serv was even close was Ruger. They routinely send out (free of charge) small parts when people lose them.
I've never dealt wit Colt or RRA or LMT, so I can't speak for them or compare.
Anyway, i'd just keep it as-is unless your life relies on it.
1500 milsurp loads through my new Bushmaster Carbine in about 45 days, most in one range session was 400... zero problems.
Cameron
1500 milsurp loads through my new Bushmaster Carbine in about 45 days, most in one range session was 400... zero problems.
Cameron
I've got about 1200, same ammo, same result.
BTW, I like your sig line!
Typically, you won't see any issues with your BM's till around 5k-8k (if at all). That seems to be the range when the bolts go on them. It is most likely a VERY good idea to carry a spare bolt.
C4
I've run 2000+ rounds through my Bushy (about 700 while stock) and never had a problem. FSB was straight, correct height for the A3 flattop, BCG had correctly staked key, came with H-marked buffer...and the buffer tube was even Mil-Spec! However there was still the BM sized stock on the Mil-Spec tube (making a VERY loose fit), the castle nut wasn't staked to the end plate (fine with me, I swapped out the stock for a M93B anyway), the PG screw was allen-head...The extractor is a rifle extractor but it has functioned flawlessly, even ejecting stubborn ammo like PCA. Fit ov the BCG is great. Also, the BCG is odd in that it's the full-size M16 carrier with shrouded firing pin and all. I bought the rifle new from Cabela's (it's the 16" Patrolman's carbine) and it was inside.
Based on the combination of components you describe, your carbine is unlikely, in the extreme, to have been a factory assembled Bushmaster shipped new to Cabelas for resale. Or you have misidentified the components.
deadwood83
10-20-06, 16:01
Based on the combination of components you describe, your carbine is unlikely, in the extreme, to have been a factory assembled Bushmaster shipped new to Cabelas for resale. Or you have misidentified the components.
It's very possible that it wasn't factory new. The box was in fair shape but closed with clear crinkly packing tape. Also the rifle didn't have any gel-consistency yellow-green goo or even colored oil on it. Inside the plastic Bushy case there is no mark or anything from factory-applied stuff as I have seen in others' cases.
As for IDing the components, the hole on the rearward bottom of the BCG stops just about at the same spot as the top whereas a semi-auto BCG has a much longer hole, right?
Oh the things you can do with the grand opening sale, coupons, and signing up for a Cabela's Visa at the same time.:D
I bought my XM15 Bushmaster M4 Type Carbine on August 26th. As of today October 25th, (2 months) it has exactly 1500 rounds through it without any failures of any kind.
Rounds are:
900 ADCOM M855
200 Federal 50gr HP
100 American Eagle 55gr FMJ
100 Winchester Q3131
200 Remanufactured 55gr FMJ
Totals 1500
Regards,
Cameron
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