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WPD53
10-22-13, 19:36
Good evening all,

I recently loaded up a couple batches of .223 and seating the primers, I noticed a couple that were soft (seated way too easily) and a couple that didn't seat well at all, sort of like the primer pocket was crimped. I finished loading the soft pockets and marked them so that I could discard them after firing. What I saw on the others was the primer is sticking out quite noticeably. What do you all do in these instances? I thought about just putting the case into the AR and pulling the trigger. But it looks to me that I will get a slam fire when closing the bolt. Good or bad practice?

Thanks,
JH
Ryno12
10-22-13, 19:49
If the primer is sticking out & I can't press it in any further or its cocked & being crushed, I'll put it in my decapping die & pop it out.

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Maineshooter
10-22-13, 21:53
If the primer is sticking out & I can't press it in any further or its cocked & being crushed, I'll put it in my decapping die & pop it out.

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This is about the only thing I have been able to do. Use a kinetic bullet puller to remove the projectile first and decap it carefully.
bigedp51
10-22-13, 22:31
Good evening all,

I recently loaded up a couple batches of .223 and seating the primers, I noticed a couple that were soft (seated way too easily) and a couple that didn't seat well at all, sort of like the primer pocket was crimped. I finished loading the soft pockets and marked them so that I could discard them after firing. What I saw on the others was the primer is sticking out quite noticeably. What do you all do in these instances? I thought about just putting the case into the AR and pulling the trigger. But it looks to me that I will get a slam fire when closing the bolt. Good or bad practice?

Thanks,
JH

1. You need to inspect your primer pockets "before" you prime your cases.

Below is a Hornady case prep trio, if the closest reamer fits in the primer pocket without binding, the primer pocket is good to go. If it doesn't fit then the pocket gets reamed with the lower back reamer followed by the top reamer. Bottom line get a hand reamer like the closest reamer in the photo to check you primer pockets.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/reamertips001_zps433f8557.jpg

2. Find a better way to prime your cases, you should feel the primer hit the bottom of the primer pocket and then go a smidgen further for a slight primer crush. Whatever you are pressing on or moving to seat your primers should stop at the same point and there should be no doubt the primer is fully seated.

Below, is a exaggerated illustration of a seated primer and primer crush. The primer cup bottoms out and you will see a very slight flattening on the upper surface of the primer. Milspec requirements state the 5.56 primer should be .004 to .006 below the surface of the case.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/Boxer-Primer_zps2da9c2c8.jpg
WPD53
10-23-13, 13:14
Thanks for the replies. I thought about running those cases back through the decapper but was concerned about detonation. Is that a possibility?

BigEd, I don't have a primer pocket tool yet other than the Hornady pocket cleaner. I also use the RCBS Hand Primer Tool to seat the primers. I am going to purchase the Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer soon. This is the first issue that I have encountered with the primers sticking out. I always run my finger across each primer after seating to make sure that they are seated about where they need to be. And I have gotten a pretty good feel with the hand primer. Have had a few soft ones where the primers went in without using much pressure at all. Those are the ones that I mark and discard after firing. Haven't had one loose enough to fall out yet.

Thanks,
JH
Ryno12
10-23-13, 14:10
You definitely should get a primer pocket reamer. Those are a necessity for crimped primers. I also hand prime my cases & if I feel a primer is going in tight, I'll index the case 180* & give it another go.
I've never had a primer detonate while decapping a live primer but I still wear PPE & go slowly. I suppose it could happen though, so be careful.

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WPD53
10-23-13, 21:11
[QUOTE=Ryno12;1778259]You definitely should get a primer pocket reamer. Those are a necessity for crimped primers. I also hand prime my cases & if I feel a primer is going in tight, I'll index the case 180* & give it another go.

I've never had a primer detonate while decapping a live primer but I still wear PPE & go slowly. I suppose it could happen though, so be careful.

Ryno12, I have tried that 180° rotation on the hard to seat ones. Some worked that way and some didn't, which led me to this post! I am pretty sure that I have run across some pockets that were crimped since on earlier batches I had difficulty seating the primer on those, but the primers didn't even come close to seating. On this last batch, the primers began to seat and that's when they became stuck before seating all the way. I am definitely looking for the reamer, just out of stock in all the places that I've looked so far. Headed back to eBay shortly!

I will give the decapper a stab and see how that works.

Thanks,
JH
Ryno12
10-23-13, 21:16
Good luck. I have one of these. Probably not as nice as the powered units but it gets the job done.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/135615/lyman-case-prep-multi-tool

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WPD53
10-23-13, 21:35
Good luck. I have one of these. Probably not as nice as the powered units but it gets the job done.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/135615/lyman-case-prep-multi-tool

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Thanks Ryno12, I looked at the Midway tool and that looks like that will do the job until I decide to "power" up!
GunnutAF
10-29-13, 14:00
WPD53
I load on a single press, so I can feel if a primer seats to easily. When I have one I have an allen wrench that fits into the case /primer hole if I can pop the primer using hand pressure the case is discarded. As for a primer not seating- you need to run your cases through a crimp remover. Then you'll not have that problem. Even some .223 Rem cases now come crimped so it not only 5.56mm cases to worry about.:D
FloridaWoodsman
11-04-13, 09:02
On the ones that went in loose, put on your safety glasses and maybe heavy gloves and run them though your decapper slowly. If it should go off, it's only a little pop, but make sure nothing is in the path.

I buy used brass that has already has the crimp removed, but they don't always do a good job so I follow up with a reamer in a battery-powered hand drill. It makes for beautifully consistent seating.
Tzed250
11-04-13, 16:53
I use the RCBS press mounted swaging tool. It makes very uniform pockets in LC brass.