powder measure rust...problem or not?

[Waylander]

I have the Hornady powder measure and cleaned the oil off the right parts like the manual states. Now the parts are rusting.
Is this normal and will the rust ever get into my loads to be enough to worry about?

[GLShooter]

I have the Hornady powder measure and cleaned the oil off the right parts like the manual states. Now the parts are rusting.
Is this normal and will the rust ever get into my loads to be enough to worry about?

I'd polish it down with FLITZ to knock any rust off and no it won't go in your loads. It would have to be pretty gross for it to end up in a case. You must live in a very wet climate. I have not seen any on mine that I have had since the mid-70's and I lived in Oklahoma for the first 20 years of that before moving to Arizona wher we DO have humidity but we can't talk about it.

Greg

[markm]

Yeah... I'm not familiar with that measure... but it'd have to be pretty horrendous to get enough rust into a load to cause problems.

[Waylander]

Humid here plus I'm in a basement on a concrete slab :)
It isn't terribly rusty right now so I could take apart the measure and brush the rust off enough not to worry about it. Having to do this all the time will be a pain but I could live with it. Using it regularly should smooth most of the internal rust off anyway I would think.
My only concern for posting was if and when the rust would get too bad to start affecting my loads.

[bigedp51]

Clean the rust off and use a neutral PH wax to protect the metal, this is what museums use on the metal parts of firearms on display.

Renaissance Wax
http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/Renaissance-Wax.html

"Renaissance Wax was formulated by scientists at the British Museum and is a moisture resistant. When Renaissance Wax is used on metals, steel, brass, copper, silver, etc., Renaissance Wax will help to prevent tarnish and corrosion."

[markm]

Are the parts Stainless Steel? I was going to try Passivation on my LE Wilson Trimmer and Chamber seating dies. I get surface rust on those because of the frequent skin contact inherent in how they are used.

A bottle was about the same price as the Renaissance Wax if I remember correctly.

Edit:

Found it cheaper at The Rust Store:

http://www.theruststore.com/CitriSurf-P136C64.aspx?gclid=COj0rv614roCFa5r7Aod-00A3Q

[Waylander]

Are the parts Stainless Steel? I was going to try Passivation on my LE Wilson Trimmer and Chamber seating dies. I get surface rust on those because of the frequent skin contact inherent in how they are used.

A bottle was about the same price as the Renaissance Wax if I remember correctly.

Edit:

Found it cheaper at The Rust Store:

http://www.theruststore.com/CitriSurf-P136C64.aspx?gclid=COj0rv614roCFa5r7Aod-00A3Q

According to this nickel plated.
http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/manuals-current/metalic-reloading/LNL_AP_Powder_Measure_Feeder.pdf

It maybe didn't help that I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner instead of the recommended degreaser/dry-lube :D

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/270323/hornady-one-shot-gun-cleaner-degreaser-and-dry-lubricant-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

[Airhasz]

I use the oneshot caselube per the instructions on the rotors and never had a corrosion problem.

[Waylander]

I cleaned as much rust as I could and sprayed down with the One Shot.

[Thump_rrr]

Get a can of Boeshield Rust Free to remove the rust and a can of Boeshield T9 to protect it.
you can find it in the tool department at Sears as a combo or online.

[Waylander]

Get a can of Boeshield Rust Free to remove the rust and a can of Boeshield T9 to protect it.
you can find it in the tool department at Sears as a combo or online.

Not a bad idea. If the dry lube doesn't stop the rust that's already formed from the fine bit I can't remove I may try this.

[Airhasz]

I have two rotors for my powder drop, one for rifle and one for pistol. I keep a desiccant packet in the box with the rotor I'm not using at the moment and also Keep a packet in each box of dies.

[Pork Chop]

No idea if this will help, but I cleaned my rotors with the one shot and wiped off any fingerprints. However, I was having trouble with inconsistency and a fellow on 1911forum suggested I season the powder measure with graphite and then try again. Not only did it correct the inconsistency, but it eliminated static and it coats the entire thing with a thin film of black graphite, so no rust.
I am getting light rust from finger prints on the outside of the rotor, but nothing inside.

Email me about it if you wish.

[RedRallyeZ]

Humid here plus I'm in a basement on a concrete slab :)
It isn't terribly rusty right now so I could take apart the measure and brush the rust off enough not to worry about it. Having to do this all the time will be a pain but I could live with it. Using it regularly should smooth most of the internal rust off anyway I would think.
My only concern for posting was if and when the rust would get too bad to start affecting my loads.

Im in the same spot. Im glad you asked the question and found all these responses. I have dehumidifiers and silica packs everywhere, but i will try some of the suggestions here as well

[Waylander]

No idea if this will help, but I cleaned my rotors with the one shot and wiped off any fingerprints. However, I was having trouble with inconsistency and a fellow on 1911forum suggested I season the powder measure with graphite and then try again. Not only did it correct the inconsistency, but it eliminated static and it coats the entire thing with a thin film of black graphite, so no rust.
I am getting light rust from finger prints on the outside of the rotor, but nothing inside.

Email me about it if you wish.
So I got most all of the rust off with something called Eezox...this liquid rust solvent/rust preventer which evaporates and leaves a dry lube. I coated the parts, ran a wire brush wheel on my Dremel tool and finally got most of the rust off.

I tried the "graphite seasoning" you mentioned on my steak but didn't much care for it :jester:

After the Eezox dried I reassembled everything, dumped a bunch of the graphite powder and cycled it out then ran powder through a few times.

Now it works great, is more accurate and hopefully won't rust again. The graphite tubes are super cheap too. I'd recommend it to anybody having consistency problems. Now I'm throwing charges within 0.1 grain.

[rljatl]

Here's an idea - take the measure apart, spray the parts with a couple or three coats of polyurethane, let it dry, put it back together. No rust, no contaminated powder.

[Pork Chop]

Yep, I rarely vary more than .10 anymore.

Glad it worked for you.