In what order do you make your reloads?

[opngrnd]

Pretty simple question here, and I'm hoping to glean some knowledge from the experience of those of you that have learned a thing or two about reloading. What do you do and in what order do you do it when reloading? Everytime I get online it seems like there's either something I didn't know about(no surprise there) or something new I didn't know I better be doing(like using a primer hole guage). If some of you with a little experience would be willing to lay it out real nice and simple, I'd appreciate it. To keep this professional, let's limit our replies to those who have reloaded in the thousands, and are happy with their results.

I'm in the hundreds right now, and am hoping to get into the thousands once I have the Hornady Progressive reloader fine-tuned. I'll give the first example.

I, so far, have done it by:

Pistol-
1.De-prime
2.Tumble
3.Check brass
4.(Lube outside the brass lightly, if needed)
5.Size
6.Bell case mouth
7.Prime
8.Charge with powder
9.Top with Bullet
10.Seat Bullet/Crimp(my Hornady die does both steps at once, if I remember correctly)
11.Shoot over a chronograph
12.Fine-tune and shoot more of final loads

Rifle-
1.De-prime(my 223 RCBS die expands the case mouth here, if I remember correctly)
2.Tumble
3.Check Brass
4.Lube
5.Full-Length Size
6.Trim and chamfer mouth
7.Prime
8.Charge with Powder
9.Top with bullet
10.Seat bullet/Crimp(my RCBS 223 die does both of these steps at once, if I remember correctly)
11.Shoot over chronograph
12.Fine Tune and shoot more of final loads

I left out a few things, like starting 10% low and working my way up(which I did), and both times I shot the chronograph(we all did that before, right?). But I think you all get the idea, and I'm looking forward to your imput.

[interfan]

A few additional things in your workflow that you may consider:

For rifle brass, it is a good idea to trim to length if needed unless you're starting with new brass. Its cheap insurance (there are some guys with the "only fired in my gun" mindset, but things happen).

If you're using NATO brass or some commercial, removing the crimp on the primer pocket is also necessary.

I also like to do some QC inspections visually, with a mic, and with chamber check blocks http://www.egwguns.com/chamber-checkers/7-hole-ammo-chamber-checkers/ after loading is complete and then I'll tumble in some corn cob to remove any remnants of lube that may still be there.

[opngrnd]

A few additional things in your workflow that you may consider:

For rifle brass, it is a good idea to trim to length if needed unless you're starting with new brass. Its cheap insurance (there are some guys with the "only fired in my gun" mindset, but things happen).

If you're using NATO brass or some commercial, removing the crimp on the primer pocket is also necessary.

I also like to do some QC inspections visually, with a mic, and with chamber check blocks http://www.egwguns.com/chamber-checkers/7-hole-ammo-chamber-checkers/ after loading is complete and then I'll tumble in some corn cob to remove any remnants of lube that may still be there.

Thanks for the reminder on trimming. I do trim the rifle brass, but forgot to include that. I'll go back and edit it. As for the chamber check blocks, I'll add that to my shopping list. :)

[duece71]

I have a Dillon 550 so for pistol, I tumble first, then resize/deprime, bell/powder drop, bullet seat then crimp. The progressive makes it easy to do well. The manual indexing slows it down a bit which I like.

[Steve in PA]

I tumble before depriming.

[1slow01Z71]

On pistol brass tumble then run it through a carbide die. Cuts out all the BS and no lube to clean off.

Rifle brass, tumble first so any debris on the brass wont mess up your dies. If youve got the green box rcbs dies it has the roll crimp seater die. I believe they make a taper crimp now that comes in the same gray colored box as their carbide pistol dies.

Cleaning case lube of is the single most annoying thing about reloading for me.

[Onyx Z]

De-prime
Tumble
Remove tumbling dust
Lube
Resize
Remove lube
Prime
Charge w/ powder
Seat bullet

I like to remove tumbling dust prior to resizing and prior use. The tumbling dust is fairly abrasive and will scratch up your die with time and will be sent down your chamber/barrel when fired. Not good IMO.

I use mineral spirits and a towel/q-tip to remove the lube, since I don't want this in my rifle either. I also let the brass dry for a while before priming. I'm currently thinking of a way to use a drill and cotton bore swab to speed up this process.

It's a long process, but it's not too bad if you do a little each night.

[Rayrevolver]

Noob question, a little off topic, but I figured I did not want to start a whole new thread. Gun money has dried up for the time being, but I have my once fired brass, powder, primers, and bullets. I am missing the press + other tools.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/420765/lee-classic-loader-223-remington

If I bought the above kit and had a friend tumble my brass, what else would I need to buy? Just something to trim the brass to the correct length? What about mouth chamfer?

Sorry for this retardo question. I'm just frustrated that my press plans are on hold and all I want to do is make a handful of rounds to shoot at high power. Interested to see what my Rainier Match barrel will do with home made 77 gr vs Prvi 69gr/75gr.

Rifle-
1.De-prime - Lee Classic Loader does this
2.Tumble
3.Check Brass
4.Lube
5.Full-Length Size - Lee Classic Loader does a neck size, but nothing for length
6.Trim and chamfer mouth
7.Prime - Lee Classic Loader does this
8.Charge with Powder - Lee Classic Loader does this
9.Top with bullet - Lee Classic Loader does this
10.Seat bullet/Crimp(my RCBS 223 die does both of these steps at once, if I remember correctly) - Lee Classic Loader does this
11.Shoot over chronograph
12.Fine Tune and shoot more of final loads

[theblackknight]

As of right now for 9mm pistol

Clean brass and sort (to me clean brass is easier to inspect)
case lube them
manually place case
step 1 decapp and deprime
prime on the up!
step 2 case bell and powder
(station 3 vacant)
Step 4 bullet feeder;)
Step 5 seat and crimp (I used hornady dies)




I have a Dillon 550 so for pistol, I tumble first, then resize/deprime, bell/powder drop, bullet seat then crimp. The progressive makes it easy to do well. The manual indexing slows it down a bit which I like.

Not unless you want to be slow! Check this dude
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XKtGKCG8l4#t=391

[duece71]

As of right now for 9mm pistol

Clean brass and sort (to me clean brass is easier to inspect)
case lube them
manually place case
step 1 decapp and deprime
prime on the up!
step 2 case bell and powder
(station 3 vacant)
Step 4 bullet feeder;)
Step 5 seat and crimp (I used hornady dies)





Not unless you want to be slow! Check this dude
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XKtGKCG8l4#t=391

Yep, he is moving alright. I look into each case before I put the bullet on the case for seating, so that slows it down a bit. I also noticed in the vid how much the dudes machine was moving every time he pulled the handle........whoa. My Dillon doesn't move at all.

[Anymouse]

This works for me --

Standard rifle match brass prep:
1. Segregate/inspect brass
2. Deburr flash holes (new brass only)
3. Tumble (except new brass)
4. Clean case neck with brush (except new brass)
5. Decap (except new brass)
6. Uniform/clean primer pocket (new brass will require primer pocket uniforming. Primer pocket will have been uniformed on fired brass, but it’s quicker for me to clean the primer pocket with the motorized uniformer than it is to clean it with a brush, so the primer pocket is in effect uniformed on every loading whether it needs it or not.)
7. Wash and dry (this step removes tumbler media and any remaining grit from the range)
8. Lube cases
9. Resize cases
10. Expand/uniform case neck
11. Trim cases (Gracey)
12. Wash and dry (this step removes the case lube)
13. Inspect; chamfer case mouth as needed
14. De-lacquer with acetone (this step removes the marks that I put on the brass which identifies it as mine and whether it is plinking, match, or long range brass. All brass is segregated by use. Old long range or match brass may be downgraded to plinking brass if still safe to use, but plinking brass is forever relegated to plinking use.)
15. Mark cases.
16. Prime cases.

Delete step #2 for plinking brass. Plinking brass will not be primed, but will be fed into Dillon XL650 for priming and remainder of steps.

Standard match brass will be primed using Sinclair priming tool, charged using Harrell powder measure, and loaded using RCBS Rockchucker with Redding match bullet seater.

Long range brass will be primed and charged as above, then loaded using Harrell turret press and Redding match die set.

For pistol brass, only steps #1, 3, 5, 6, and 7 are performed. Brass is then fed into Dillon.

For all brass, a certain percentage of cases will have the measured powder charge weighed for statistical control purposes, and a certain percentage will be checked using a case gauge.

This process works best if loading ammo in large batches. My reloaded ammo may be cleaner than some, but that just makes it easier to find, somewhat reducing sacrifices to the Brass God (he always gets some, though).

[matemike]

1) Inspect and lube brass
2) De-prime and full length resize all in one stroke of the press handle. (I shoot a lot of sub-sonic loads, so the resizing is pretty smooth and easy)
3) Check lengths and wipe off lube as they go into the tumbler
4) Trim if I need to
5) Tumle (anywhere from 2-6 hours)
6) Remove all brass from tumbler. Wipe off tumbler dust on outside of shell and use toothpick to get walnut media pieces out of the primer pocket.
7) De-Camfer + wipe out brass shavings and tumbler dust on the inside of shell with a q-tip
8) Prime (I usually wait until I have atleast 250 rounds to prime)
9) Load powder
10) Load bullets
11) Check COAL
12) Put all my notes in the shell holder with the fresh batch and head to the range

Note pad, pencil, chronograph are a must.

[shootist~]

Pistol:
Polish (in corncob w/ Dillon polish).
Run them through the Dillon progressive.

Rifle:
Polish.
Lube & Size (Toolhead has Sizer die only).
Polish again to remove lube.
Trim.
Run then through the Dillon (toolhead has a Dillon Universal decapper instead of sizer die).

I don't use range brass (for rifle) and track the number of loadings. So no need to inspect as a separate step.

For 7.62x51 I hand anneal after the second reload (third firing), and again after the fifth if I want to go one more time.

[Thump_rrr]

Deprime
Wet Tumble with SS Pins.
Dry
Swage primer pocket
Uniform Primer pocket
Deburr flash hole
Full length size and trim
A: (Dillon RT-1200) for semi auto brass.
B: (L.E. Wilson/ Sinclair Ultimate Trimmer) for bolt guns.
Chamfer and deburr.
Wet tumble for 1/2 hour to remove lube and all brass shavings.
Anneal.

[Bigun]

I tumble before depriming. Yep that way you clean the tumbler media out of the flash hole while de capping, and with rifle brass I also clean the primer pockets on every reload. For pistol rounds I run a test batch on my Lee Classic cast turret press check for accuracy/reliability if everything works out good I set up my Dillon SDB and run with it. Rifle I run a test batch on a single stage press and if it works out I make my runs on the Turret press. Been happy with this set up for years. I'm not a high volume shooter in rifle callibers so the turret works out great If I was it would be a Dillon 650 without question.

[crawlin95]

Rifle:
Tumble
Lube
Deprime
Trim
Tumble
Prime
Powder
Bullet
Crimp if going in gas gun.

[hi-power9]

Pistol
Deprime & Size
Clean by soaking in a Lemi-Shine solution
Tumble when I want them real shiny
Inspect for damage
Expand & Prime
Powder charge
Bullet & Crimp

[Packing a 45]

I'm sure you have found what you were asking, some smart people here. BUT you need too buy some reloading books before you hurt your self or others . Look's like you have spent some $$$ on equipment now spend a little more for everyones safety.Packing

[kry226]

I'm sure you have found what you were asking, some smart people here. BUT you need too buy some reloading books before you hurt your self or others . Look's like you have spent some $$$ on equipment now spend a little more for everyones safety.Packing

Never a bad safety tip, but I am led to believe from his statements that he has a manual or two.

[opngrnd]

1Slow-Good call on the Green box RCBS dies. For Christmas I was given a gift certificate that I used to get the 223/5.56 Gray Box RCBS dies you mentioned. I like idea of the taper crimp, and I think I'm going to use the different dies for different guns(Green Box=Bolt gun/Gray box=ARs)

Packing-I am indeed using reloading manuals. Excellent advice, though.

[markm]

I've had outstanding results running the exact same dies for Bolt and AR in .223.

[Pappabear]

Mark runs precision ammo like a house on fire. Buckets of 500 that shoot sub MOA, with a high speed press.

[opngrnd]

Has anyone had trouble with 223 brass having buckled shoulders when trying to crimp and seat the bullet at the same time? Since this pertains my original post, I thought I'd continue the thread rather than start a new one.

I noticed my brass wasn't getting a crimp when I had to remove a few bullets the other day. I adjusted my taper crimp RCBS die to add a light crimp and restarted my loads. But when I went to shoot the reloads, the 69 grain SMKs barely chambered in my 5.56 AR, and the 77 grain SMKs only worked in the Rem 700 due to the camming action of the bolt.

I'm going to use the seating die from my green box RCBS 223 die to seat and crimp with the taper crimp die to see if that solves it, but I wanted to know if this is pretty common when trying to seat and crimp 223 in one motion. I'll try to get pictures up as soon as I can, but they might not be the best since all I had was my cell phone. Surprisingly, the loads didn't shoot half bad under the circumstances.

[markm]

but I wanted to know if this is pretty common when trying to seat and crimp 223 in one motion.

The idea of trying to seat and crimp in one step doesn't even compute. I think you can do that kind of nonsense on crappy pistol ammo, but now you're just raising my blood pressure unnecessarily.

[opngrnd]

Here are the pictures of the buckled shoulders-

25513
25514

Light Crimp-
25515

At least it shot well. I had a rather poor rest to shoot from, and having had shoulder surgery a few days prior, wasn't able to stabilize the rifle very well. I was also breaking cheek weld to record the velocity between each shot. This is also initial load development, which is on its way to being a copy of Markm's SMK load.
25516
25517

[markm]

I've had this happen when my LEE FCD seized up. It's hard to look at.

[Onyx Z]

Has anyone had trouble with 223 brass having buckled shoulders when trying to crimp and seat the bullet at the same time? Since this pertains my original post, I thought I'd continue the thread rather than start a new one.

I noticed my brass wasn't getting a crimp when I had to remove a few bullets the other day. I adjusted my taper crimp RCBS die to add a light crimp and restarted my loads. But when I went to shoot the reloads, the 69 grain SMKs barely chambered in my 5.56 AR, and the 77 grain SMKs only worked in the Rem 700 due to the camming action of the bolt.

I'm going to use the seating die from my green box RCBS 223 die to seat and crimp with the taper crimp die to see if that solves it, but I wanted to know if this is pretty common when trying to seat and crimp 223 in one motion. I'll try to get pictures up as soon as I can, but they might not be the best since all I had was my cell phone. Surprisingly, the loads didn't shoot half bad under the circumstances.

Get a dedicated crimping die.

[opngrnd]

Thanks guys. I didn't know crimping while seating would be that bad of an idea. I'll look for a dedicated crimping die. And a maybe a better seating die, since the reason I bought the RCBS dies was because I thought I could seat and crimp in one moment. At least the small base die part is usable.

So...if you were just going to jump to the top for a quality 223 seating die and crimp die, what are your recommendations? Redding for both? I'd like to stop paying twice for equipment.

[markm]

I've been running a Forster Adjustable seating die. I like it because I can switch bullets on the fly and not have to adjust my die with the lock nut.

The Lee FCD is only like $16.... so it's a no brainer... the Forster and Redding are both going to be good... but will run a few extra bucks.

[kry226]

With the FCD, do you crimp once, or do you rotate a few degrees and re-crimp to flatten out the collet pinch like I have seen others do?

[Onyx Z]

My Forster seating die is exactly what I wanted in a seating die. It holds everything in perfect alignment as the bullet is being seated reducing bullet runout. Like mark said, you can adjust seating depth without moving the locking ring, which is a huge plus.

The RCBS doesn't even touch the casing, increasing bullet runout, which is fine for plinking, but not match ammo. I can't comment on the Redding seating dies, but I know they are similar to the Forster's.

Oh, and if you get a Forster seating die, don't lose the little plastic square that comes in the box... you'll thank me later.

[Onyx Z]

With the FCD, do you crimp once, or do you rotate a few degrees and re-crimp to flatten out the collet pinch like I have seen others do?

I don't rotate it, and I doubt it really matters either way.

[markm]

With the FCD, do you crimp once, or do you rotate a few degrees and re-crimp to flatten out the collet pinch like I have seen others do?

That would be absolute insanity. HELL NO. It sounds like these jokers have it set for a very heavy crimp. Not something I'd want on match bullets... or any bullet for that matter.

I set mine up to where the collet marks are BARELY visible to the naked eye.

[Coal Dragger]

The idea of trying to seat and crimp in one step doesn't even compute. I think you can do that kind of nonsense on crappy pistol ammo, but now you're just raising my blood pressure unnecessarily.

I don't even seat and crimp with same die doing pistol ammo, all it does is make crappy ammo, lead or copper shavings, and put me in a bad mood. Like you I always use a separate crimp die if I need a crimp. Particularly helpful when putting on very heavy crimps on magnum revolver ammo, otherwise seating and crimping in one step will buckle the cases.

[markm]

I never even knew you could crimp and seat in the same step until reading about the problems with it on gun forums.

I guess if you were single stage loading pistol ammo, it'd have appeal... but damn.