View Full Version : Threading AK Barrels
There seem to be two opinions splitting the web.
A BUNCH of folks have done their own threading their barrel with a DIY kit and have had success.
A bunch of other folks say that you MUST send it off to a pro to have the barrel removed, lathe threaded, reinstalled and headspace verified (not cheap or easy).
So, some questions ensue:
Who is right? (It would seem that using a slant brake only would make DIY viable - an AK74 style may be a problem if it is off slightly.)
How do you install the spring/pin combo to keep it from unthreading?
Any threads with a DIY failure?
Thanks.
Surely there is an expert opinion here.
I threaded my own & just used a crush washer. The tools are fairly inexpensive & now I have them on hand in the event I have any future projects. If you have any mechanical aptitude, don't be afraid to do it on your own.
Sent via Tapatalk
plouffedaddy
12-22-13, 17:12
I threaded mine with a DIY kit. Works fine.
The related question is are you planning to put a can on it? If so it worth the peace of mind to send it out. If just for a FH or MB do it yourself.
No Can - likely a slant brake. on another I might do an AK 74 style.
What kit to buy???
No Can - likely a slant brake. on another I might do an AK 74 style.
What kit to buy???
I ordered all the tools from here:
http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/category_s/1891.htm
Sent via Tapatalk
No Can - likely a slant brake. on another I might do an AK 74 style.
What kit to buy???
Thread it yourself, then. With an AK barrel it is always possible that the bore and the external surface are not concentric. Because of this there is a risk of a baffle strike if the threading is not concentric with the bore.
Moose-Knuckle
12-23-13, 02:21
I threaded my SAR-1 back in '04 after the AWB, nothing to difficult. On the AK boards back then there was a guy renting out kits, it worked on the honor system after you threaded your barrels you sent the kit to the next guy. You would receive it after sending in your payment. I'm not sure if there is that sort of thing still going around or not but chances are if you buy a kit you may never have need for it again.
I ordered all the tools from here:
http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/category_s/1891.htm
Sent via Tapatalk
How do you secure the thread alignment tool in the barrel so it doesn't walk when you get the threading die down to your barrel?
How do you secure the thread alignment tool in the barrel so it doesn't walk when you get the threading die down to your barrel?
I'm not sure I follow your question but I'll try my best to just explain how it works. The alignment tool's shaft is caliber specific & has slip fit into the barrel. The alignment tool is threaded into the die far enough (I forget the actual depth offhand but I want to say it's something like halfway) to be able to securely hold the alignment tool while still exposing the starter threads of the die. Slip the alignment tool shaft into the barrel until contact is made with the die. Start threading the barrel as you normally would. The shaft of the tool inside the barrel keeps the die in alignment to the barrel. Once you have enough threads cut on the barrel (approx 4-5), you can thread the alignment tool out the back of the die to remove it. The initial threads cut will guide the die the remainder of the way.
Sent via Tapatalk
Must you take off the FSP?
Must you take off the FSP?
No but I did have to remove part of a sleeve that was attached to the FSB, that was covering the area to be threaded. The FSB itself didn't have to be removed.
Sent via Tapatalk
jamesavery22
12-23-13, 09:35
cncwarrior also has most if not all the tools needed for hand threading. Die's can always be found on eBay if you really want to pinch pennys.
Haven't seen many screw the pooch on this but there have been some. Breaking dies mostly. Or bent TATs
With Saigas some folks have cut into the barrel while cutting off the sleeve of the FSB.
As Horse said, if no can then hand threading is usually fine.
Slant brake will be fine. Those have a huge tolerance and are very short. Little to no chance of a strike unless you really F up the threads.
Some muzzle devices are long and will have a small ID which require at least some level of precision. AKBC comes to mind.
As for the retaining pin installation, what AK do you have? If your FSB already has the cuts for it then it's a matter of buying the retaining pin and spring. Maybe drifting out a pin to install and pressing it back in. If you have a Saiga it's a little more involved...
My FSP has the hole - not a problem.
jamesavery22
12-24-13, 16:00
Another thing I see forgotten, at least not specifically called out as a step in the procedure, is painting. Which I also just forgot...
Paint your threads.
http://i.imgur.com/jOrGSIhl.jpg
Doesn't have to match. Give some rust protection. It's very easy to thread, attach a muzzle device, and forget you have a fair amount of bare steel.
I agree, it's a good idea to protect the threads. Personally, I'd use anti-seize.
Sent via Tapatalk
Any recommendations on threading KITS? Some say CNC Warrior's kit is GTG, other's say it is not the highest quality. Thanks.
Like the OP, I am leaning towards using a DIY kit to thread a barrel. In this case a 5.45x39 rifle for an ar15 flash hider, 1/2-28 RH.
The barrel diameter might be too big (+0.005) for the 1/2-28 RH thread but I can slide a crush washer on it.
I am set on using the manticore arms eclipse flash hider. The exit hole of this FH is much narrower than the inner diameter of the FH. Is this standard on ar15 flash hiders/muzzle breaks?
Do you thread the barrel to where the front of the FH would make contact with the crown or do you leave a small gap between the crown and FH?
Follow up. Got the CNC Warrior kit. Worked like a champ. Goofed up the first couple of threads on the first gun, but that does not affect the function.
Use the TAT backed off 5 threads. Back off more after a couple and dispense with it once you have 4-5 threads. Some use a brake on the rear end, but I don't see the use other than blocking your view. (I worked from the top). If you take the TAT out to work and clean, remount with the TAT - otherwise you could strip your work. Then you can take the TAT off. Watch videos and crank away. It is NOT that hard. Take your time on the first go.
By the way - any opinions on a short light AND effective flash hider? Is this any good? http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=21532
english kanigit
02-07-14, 22:52
The related question is are you planning to put a can on it? If so it worth the peace of mind to send it out. If just for a FH or MB do it yourself.
This. With a a threading kit (die, alignment tool, etc) it takes about 20 minutes, if that. Did it to my -107CR after whacking off a couple of inches. An end mill, small piece of drill rod and a few minutes made for a very handy AK that had a 14.5" barrel + flash hider as a temporary place holder. For just a muzzle device it's Good Enough.
That gun was actually just dropped off at a local AK shop this week. They're going to chop off the old flash hider, pull the barrel and concentrically cut on a lathe new threads for a Surefire suppressor mount. I hope to have it back within a couple of months.
Ek
Just did a 5.45 VEPR barrel. Used an annular cutter to take the journal down to .50 and then thread 1/2-28RH. Worked great! Used the CNCW stuff and had no issues.
RickyRifle
02-11-14, 19:28
By the way - any opinions on a short light AND effective flash hider? Is this any good? http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=21532
I have a Phantom on a Saiga that I threaded; it works great. (My favorite FH is still the Vortex, but I've not seen one in 14mm thread.)
I have a Phantom on a Saiga that I threaded; it works great. (My favorite FH is still the Vortex, but I've not seen one in 14mm thread.)
Here you go. (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/392556/smith-enterprise-vortex-flash-hider-m14x10-lh-thread-ak-47-ak-74-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
RickyRifle
02-12-14, 19:32
Here you go. (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/392556/smith-enterprise-vortex-flash-hider-m14x10-lh-thread-ak-47-ak-74-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding)
Nice....I've got sticker shock...but very nice.
If you have more than one neutered AK, the CNC Warrior kit is a bargain. It is really all you need. A few pointers are in order. Open the die all the way you can to start. (Turn set screw clockwise). Back out the TAT at least 5 turns,and be ready to back out more as you go. If you leave the TAT too far engaged, you will strip threads. Keep using the lube. Turn the die into the muzzle - take a bite, then back out often, to let the metal shards get out of the way. About a third and 2/3 the way down, thread it back out and clean up, and relube. Always use the TAT to remount, but you can take it BACK OFF completely once you are half way through. Some folks use a muzzle device on TOP - I find this to be counterproductive, as it blocks your view. Drive it right up to the FSB, as you want it as close as you can get it.
As long as you are careful DIY threading for an AK-74 brake can be done. I threaded a couple SAR-1s years back, and quite honestly did a poor job on them, so when I decided to do it to my SAR-2 so I could use a '74 brake, I resolved to be much more careful.
I got all the parts from CNC Warrior. Due to the small barrel diameter of the SAR-2 in front of the FSB I had to first thread it in the 1/2x28 thread pitch you usually see on ARs, then I dropped a spare AKM FSB plunger pin and spring into the hole in the front sight and added a 1/2x28 to 24x1.5 adapter, then a large crush washer on top of that to make a surprisingly good facsimile of an AK-74 type threaded FSB (Even I wasn't expecting the washer to fit as well as it did.). The adapter holds the plunger pin and spring into place like on a real AK-74 FSB. Ideally, I probably should JB Weld the washer and adapter in place but am waiting until I am 100% sure there is nothing "off" in my threading job before I do that.
An AK-74 type muzzle brake fit fine and I had no problems with bullets striking the brake when test-firing it after, granted a 7.62 sized brake was all I had and I have yet to buy a proper 5.45 diameter one, so if I did screw something up during threading the larger 7.62-sized opening might not be making it obvious.
The brake has a fair amount of rattle but it doesn't seem to move much more than my SLR-106's brake.
If you take your time, have the TAT properly mounted, and have the die backed out as much as possible, it is not hard. Also - don't fiddle - take a bite nice and straight.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.