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MistWolf
01-01-14, 19:47
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0012-1.jpg

I've been around firearms all my life and shot and handle a wide variety of firearms, burned up a pile of ammo and humped rifles, pistols and shotguns over many a hill & dale while hunting. My military time was spent maintaining aircraft, I've never been a LEO or taken any carbine clases. Most of my experience with military rifles had been with Garands, M14s, M1 carbines and a variety of WWII bolt actions.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/All%20American/DSC_0168.jpg

In my lifetime, I've heard nearly every myth and all the gunshop gossip and it was quite the task sometimes, to sort fact from fertilizer. I heard tales of tumbling M16 bullets that would enter the toe and exit from between the eyes while tearing off limbs, turning organs into mush while leaving it's victims wounded so it took two soldiers and a medic to carry them off the battlefield. A gunsmith friend of the family told us of how the AR had to be completely dry lest the oil attract a fatal dust speck to jam the action because of the close tolerances inside. I didn't buy an AR until they introduced the A2 flat top back in the 90s. Although my first was a Colt Competition HBar, I had a few reservations. It didn't take long to realize it's fragility was greatly exagerated.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/Liberty/056.jpg
I carried that rifle all over a couple of deserts in search of the Mighty Jackrabbit and for awhile, I was shooting 223 like it was 22 rimfire. Ammo was cheap enough back then. Sold it couple years ago to fund a precision AR. Later, I built an AR carbine. Built both rifles using what I'd learned here. Shot a lot of rounds through both and picked up a few things along the way.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/Liberty/DSC_0001_zpsc8532be9.jpg

LUBE- Much has been written about cleaning and lubing ARs. New lube threads kept popping up like mushrooms in a newly fertilized field. Epic battles like those of the First World War were fought over the good and ill of more lubricants than I even knew existed. Even the pros and cons of Vagisil were discussed! Soon, it became obvious the fights were over the same trenches. Now that the Great Lube War has passed into history, I can make a confession. In all the thousands of rounds I've fired out of my ARs, to my great shame, the only lube I've used is the oft maligned Rem-Oil. It has not proved to be any better than it's detractors claim. It evaporates quickly, needs to be constantly applied and is very thin. Yet, it's all my ARs have needed to run reliably in sub-zero weather, rain, snow, or in the hot dusty heat of the desert. I inspected my BCG this afternoon and for all the use it's had, it shows surprisingly little wear. The lesson here isn't that Rem-Oil is a good choice. The lesson is to keep the AR well oiled even if using Rem-Oil- not dry. The only cleaning I've done is to wipe down the BCG and run a snake through the bore. No malfunctions due to dirt.

TOLERANCES- All quality rifles have tight tolerances. If they didn't, the parts would not fit together as designed. Tolerances determine the minimum and maximum dimensions the parts are allowed to have. When folks talk about the tolerances of an AR being too tight to allow for debris, they're wrong. What they really mean is clearance. Even so, the AR only has one place where it has tight clearances and that is between the bolt and receiver extension. Getting crapola in there will cause problems. Clearances between the carrier and upper receiver are actually generous. The carrier simply floats in the upper as it cycles back & forth.

BARRELS- Ask most anyone here and there is only one type of barrel acceptable for your AR bullet hose- MilSpec 4150 CMV with a chrome lined chamber and bore- and with good reason. These barrels have a proven history of good life and durability. Some would have you believing any other barrel is plain unacceptable. However, the chrome lining can have a negative impact on accuracy. For awhile, I waffled between the long life between of the lined 4150 CMV and accuracy of the of the unlined stainless steel barrels. When I finally pulled the trigger on my PSA carbine kit, I finally settled on the stainless steel barrel for two reasons-
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/ARCarbineSnow1_zpsf15be895.jpg
1) I wanted to see if the durability of the stainless steel barrel would stand up to a heavy firing schedule and-
2) more importantly, the PSA carbine kit with the stainless steel barrel became available before the FN 4150 CMV barrel did and was at a price I could afford.

What I've discovered since then, is regardless of which of the two barrels I selected, short of simple abuse, it will take a lot of rounds before a good barrel truly wears out. In the real world, for a guy like me, the CMV offers little advantage in barrel life over the stainless steel. The flip side is the unlined offers little advantage in accuracy over the lined barrel when using bulk ammo and maybe not even when using good ammo.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Build/300YdTarget001.jpg
Shot with the precision AR from a bench at 300 yards using bulk ammo. 2.5 - 3 MOA

So what it comes down to, for everyone agonizing over which barrel to choose for your general purpose carbine, choose a quality barrel regardless of material type and get one that will get you started shooting the soonest.

LEGOS- There are a lot of folks out there that will tell you assembling an AR is as simple as Legos. Compared to building a FAL from a kit, assembling an AR is simpler.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0003-1.jpg
But, if you don't get the right parts, or don't understand an assembly procedure and it goes sideways on you, it can get complicated quick. No matter how easy anyone may think assembling an AR is, if you don't take time to pay attention to the details, the devil will be smiling over your shoulder.

SIGHTS- Let's cut to the chase on this one. As soon as you learn to use your aperture sights, get a quality RDS.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/Carbine_H1.jpg
While I'm not ready to advocate not installing BUIS, I'm beginning to think they're not needed. Experience has shown that the Aimpoint is a rugged, reliable sight, requiring minimal maintenance. In real world applications, the usefulness of the BUIS might be limited. Sure, if the RDS battery goes flat, you can simply switch to the BUIS but what happens if the RDS fogs up or you splatter mud over the lens? If you can't see through the RDS the BUIS are usless. Okay, if the optic has a quick release mount, you can remove it to clear LOS for the BUIS. Still, this is something I'd like to ponder further.

SLING- Using traditional sling methods simply don't work with the AR- or any other pistol gripped rifle for that matter. It's awkward and uncomfortable. I'm currently using a "modern" two point sling and the difference is night & day. I just wish I'd paid more attention to the photos of how the South Africans were doing it with the FAL, back in the day. It would have put me years ahead of the learning curve.

CONFIGURATION- Get a good quality 16" barrel and a free float tube. Heavy profile barrels aren't needed for accuracy, chamber, bore and crown quality does. A 16 inch barrel gives good reach while being short enough to be truly handy. The only thing a shooter needs to do to change a carbine from CQB to a precision rig is change the sights. Sure, an SBR would be handier for house clearing and a 20" bull barrel musket will serve better picking off P-dogs way out yonder, but a shooter with a 16" carbine can choose to either. There is a reason why a 16" AR carbine is just about the single best selling rifle in America today.

THE MOST IMPORTANT LESSON OF ALL- It's my rifle and it's my money. It's nice if others think what I got is cool but that's not why I built it. That doesn't mean I ignore the experience and knowledge of others. I pay attention to folks like Army Chief (RIP), IG, K.L. Davis, F2S and Grant, just to name a few. I owe these fellows a lot for what I've learned during this journey. But at the end of the day, my rifles have to satisfy me. If it's important to me that my rifle meets the approval of others, it means I've learned nothing
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0002_zps3aa9a56c.jpg

Xsail
01-01-14, 23:45
Yep, pretty much agree, heard all the same gun shop BS, never really wanted a black rifle, bought one....Now got a safe full of them! :)

"SLING- Using traditional sling methods simply don't work with the AR- or any other pistol gripped rifle for that matter. It's awkward and uncomfortable. I'm currently using a "modern" two point sling and the difference is night & day. I just wish I'd paid more attention to the photos of how the South Africans were doing it with the FAL, back in the day. It would have put me years ahead of the learning curve."

Not sure what you are talking about traditional slings not working? I won't shoot anything other than a good ol' 1907 or GI web, there's nothing more traditional than that! :)....O.L.

levik97
01-02-14, 02:51
I really appreciate the time you took to write this up. Thanks!

Levi

ptmccain
01-02-14, 04:47
Great post, thanks.

Todd00000
01-02-14, 06:59
You lost me when I read "Rem-oil," just kidding, great write up.

jpgm
01-02-14, 09:23
MistWolf
Nice perspective.

quaesitor logica
01-02-14, 11:38
MistWolf, nice write up. Wish I had something like to read when I first caught the dreaded BRD.

Over the years I have owned everything from an AK, Steyr AUG , a Bushmaster to a SR15E3 looking for that "perfect" all purpose semi-auto rifle. I have built rifles ranging from 650$ to $1700. Rifles capable of .5 MOA to 3 moa bullet hoses. I still have a $1600 AR build that is mechanically capable of around .5 moa, when I get behind the wheel, I get .750 moa on my best days and usually closer to 1.2moa .

I also have two other rifles that I decided to build as cheaply as possible without sacrificing dependability or too much accuracy. I ended up with 12" and a 16" , probably set up alot like your rifles. The $1600 tackdriver usually just sits in the safe after a monthly ego boosting, bench shooting range session. The 12" $680 peashooter pulls H.D duty and goes fishing and camping and general traveling. The 16" $800 shooter goes to the range and camping. Both of these weapons have been ultra reliable and I can average a 2-3 moa group with them using regular mid quality factory ammo.

I sure did love that KAC rifle, it was pretty and it shot like a champ. I liked what the Steyr AUG brought to the table. I love the $1600 tackdriver. In the end though I sold the KAC, AK and the AUG and the weapon that I use and count on the most is a $680 frankengun.

Too bad this post wasn't available 15-20 years ago. May have helped save me some serious coin and heartache.

hatidua
01-02-14, 12:51
Now that the Great Lube War has passed into history

...we must be reading different forums.

Xsail
01-02-14, 13:25
I too have used nothing but Rem oil with no issues! :)...O.L.

Krull
01-02-14, 14:00
Good write up,I was a kid in the 80's and I heard all the "M16 is junk" crap you can imagine and then some I even bought into it and was ether an AK or SKS guy for a long time.

Then in the early part of the 2000's I started to look at the Armalite again and looked at the action sheet at the time:the thing was fast closing in on forty years of service and it hadn't been a quiet forty years,from a rough start in Vietnam to minor shoot outs in the 70's and 80's then getting used,and used HARD,by the Israelis,and then the first Gulf War and Yugoslavia to the current free for all in the mid east.....

I got my first AR in 2006 a real Frankengun but it worked well enough (after a quick fix on the extractor) and then through several more I'm at the point where a Colt AR is my go-to "utility rifle"

As of this year the Armalite is going to have fifty years of service under it's belt and in all kinds of places and all kinds of conditions and you know what? the thing ain't as half as delicate as a lot of chair bound Rambos made it out to be,true you need to make sure it's semi clean and keep it oiled but what machine doesn't need that?
I know one thing I would defiantly be willing to stake my life on one.

Now if we could just get people to feel the same way about the M9........

quaesitor logica
01-02-14, 14:00
...we must be reading different forums.

You haven't read up on the lube wars? I read up on the "Frog-lube invasion of 2011"... Rem-oil got pretty beat up in that thread.

levik97
01-02-14, 14:33
You haven't read up on the lube wars? I read up on the "Frog-lube invasion of 2011"... Rem-oil got pretty beat up in that thread.

I think he is saying that there is still a lot of heated disagreement on popular gun forums about what lube is the best.

Levi

hatidua
01-02-14, 16:48
I think he is saying that there is still a lot of heated disagreement on popular gun forums about what lube is the best.

Levi

Indeed. One need look no further than one thread up in this very forum to find yet another lube A -vs- lube B debate.

levik97
01-02-14, 16:55
Indeed. One need look no further than one thread up in this very forum to find yet another lube A -vs- lube B debate.

I think the Fireclean thread was the worst one recently haha. I did order some today to try out though.

Levi

quaesitor logica
01-02-14, 17:00
I think he is saying that there is still a lot of heated disagreement on popular gun forums about what lube is the best.

Levi


Yep, just having a bit of fun:dance3:

Tx_Aggie
01-03-14, 09:32
That was a good read - thanks for taking the time to write it up.

txf15crewchief
01-03-14, 12:06
Great post, I wish something similar was around a decade ago. It would've saved me a ton of money.

Big Bronze Rim
01-03-14, 12:34
Great post MistWolf.

Big Bronze Rim
01-03-14, 12:37
Double tap.

montanadave
01-03-14, 12:49
Always enjoyable (and educational) to read these types of posts. Nicely done and thanks.

Little Creek
01-03-14, 14:26
Great post MistWolf! How about some more info on your M&P 10?

SteveS
01-06-14, 14:53
What I enjoyed greatly about the write up was the view is from one with aircraft maintenance experience. This as well as most mechanical trained and machinist experience write ups is the well grounded and understandable view of the subject because believe it or not guns are mechanical. It seems that not many AR owners have only 1 AR.

B52U
01-06-14, 15:34
Very nice summary of your AR ownership experience. It is a crazy churning sea of evolving information, but experience, and listening to the old pros cuts through the chop.

From a fellow Utahn.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

lowbar
01-06-14, 15:38
Very nice write up. Thanks for sharing! OP

MistWolf
01-06-14, 23:36
...Not sure what you are talking about traditional slings not working? I won't shoot anything other than a good ol' 1907 or GI web, there's nothing more traditional than that! :)....O.L.

The traditional 1907 sling works fine when slinging up to shoot or carrying a rifle with out a protruding mag or grip. But when used to carry an AR, the mag & grip will dig painfully into your ribs. I contemplated a single point sling but it doesn't look like it lets you have as much control over the rifle as the two point sling South African carry does

MistWolf
01-07-14, 00:18
TRIGGERS- The standard AR trigger is a single stage with a long travel and reset. This is designed into the trigger for safety. It prevents the sear from bouncing and releasing the hammer if the rifle is banged roughly. It also eliminates doubling if the trigger is "milked" (squeezed slowly). The Geiselle SSA & SSA-E triggers have about the same amount of travel and reset but the initial travel, the first stage, is very light. Right before the hammer is released, the hook of the disconnect comes into contact with the hammer adding the weight of the disconnect spring to the pull. If not for this, the pull would stay light until the hammer was released. With the standard AR trigger, the disconnect hook does not come in contact with the hammer after reset, so pull throughout the long travel remains roughly the same.

LENGTH OF PULL- I've been running my UBR & CTR stocks all the way out with a thick recoil pad because of my long arms. The UBR in particular has a long LOP fully extended and one of the few factory stocks to actually fit and I set the eye relief on my scope accordingly. Trouble is, it never felt natural. I experimented with shortening the stocks and re-adjusted the scope to match. Whaddya know- it felt better. I guess I've been shooting with factory stocks with LOPs too short for me for so long, a stock of the right length just doesn't feel right. I've always known an LOP that's too short is better than one that's too long. May not be able to teach an old dog new tricks, but an old wolf can re-learn old ones