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High Altitude
01-07-14, 21:12
I have a M&P 9 that was manufactured 2/25/2011 which is still completely stock and so far runs fine.

It doesn't have any of the updated parts such as the updated trigger parts (sear, sear spring, trigger bar), slide release, barrel, no tactile trigger reset etc....

I have got to do something with the trigger. Crunchy, false reset when the trigger bar comes off the firing pin safety plunger etc.....

Do you update the sear spring, put in some Apex parts (accept that the trigger reset is what it is) and hope it doesn't start to have any accuracy or early unlocking problems.......

OR

Sell it and buy one with all the latest updates, polish up the firing pin safety plunger and call it a day?

The pistol is basically an all around backup for carry/IDPA/HD etc..... ie. sometimes I just want to use the M&P.

Do the latest updates make a huge difference in the performance of the pistol?

jck397
01-07-14, 21:28
My understanding of the M&P accuracy/unlocking issues is that they are either there or they aren't...it's not like the Glock extractor issues where they can pop up 800-1,000 rounds in. Apex parts do make a difference, and their RAM will help some with the reset, but you won't know until you try. Likewise you won't know if a replacement gun would have any issues until you shot it. IMHO if your current gun is accurate and reliable, you're better off trying Apex and an $80-100 gamble instead of a $400-600 gamble on a new gun.

warpedcamshaft
01-07-14, 22:25
My call would be thus:

If the pistol holds 4 or maybe 5 inches at 25 yards, I would keep it and add an Apex trigger kit.

If it doesn't hold 4/5 inches at 25, I would dump it.

My last M&P ran about 8 inches at 25 yards with most ammunition, and I decided to dump it and wait a few years before acquiring another M&P. It actually had a pretty good trigger compared to some of the others I have fired, but the accuracy issue can get expensive to solve.

High Altitude
01-07-14, 23:54
I did bench it at 25yds, but it was so long ago I don't remember what it shot. I will definitely see how it groups at 25yds again before doing anything.

I had a chance to shoot a new M&P40 and it had the latest parts in it. The new sear is very similar to the Apex sear except the sear angle is slightly more negative which adds a pound or so to the trigger pull weight compared to my M&P9. The new sear breaks further back in the trigger pull like the apex sear so has a pretty short reset. Take up was still crunchy from the firing pin safety block. I don't know why S&W doesn't fix this.

With some polishing and maybe playing around with the springs some, I don't think an APEX kit is even needed on the new M&P pistols unless you want to go with the FSS kit.

I have been working on my CZ pistols lately and I am starting to get spoiled with the trigger. I can see why some people prefer SAO.

Might get a M&P45C w/thumb safety and add the FSS kit at a low trigger pull weight. Would be a fun pistol.




My call would be thus:

If the pistol holds 4 or maybe 5 inches at 25 yards, I would keep it and add an Apex trigger kit.

If it doesn't hold 4/5 inches at 25, I would dump it.

My last M&P ran about 8 inches at 25 yards with most ammunition, and I decided to dump it and wait a few years before acquiring another M&P. It actually had a pretty good trigger compared to some of the others I have fired, but the accuracy issue can get expensive to solve.

walkin' trails
01-08-14, 07:30
Is the pistol otherwise shoots good, do the trigger work you want to do and keep it. I have one that I bought new in July 2013, factory test fired June 2013. The trigger was gritty out of the box, but cleared up after 200 rounds. That's probably what you'd expect from a new mfg model.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

M_Rapp
01-08-14, 10:27
I did bench it at 25yds, but it was so long ago I don't remember what it shot. I will definitely see how it groups at 25yds again before doing anything.

I had a chance to shoot a new M&P40 and it had the latest parts in it. The new sear is very similar to the Apex sear except the sear angle is slightly more negative which adds a pound or so to the trigger pull weight compared to my M&P9. The new sear breaks further back in the trigger pull like the apex sear so has a pretty short reset. Take up was still crunchy from the firing pin safety block. I don't know why S&W doesn't fix this.

With some polishing and maybe playing around with the springs some, I don't think an APEX kit is even needed on the new M&P pistols unless you want to go with the FSS kit.

I have been working on my CZ pistols lately and I am starting to get spoiled with the trigger. I can see why some people prefer SAO.

Might get a M&P45C w/thumb safety and add the FSS kit at a low trigger pull weight. Would be a fun pistol.
Wasn't there a thread out there somewhere that walked one through how / where to polish up an M&P? I can't find it and am debating whether to try this myself or not. From what I can recall it was not to difficult. ???

GaryXD
01-10-14, 17:59
If I want one with the latest updates, what manufacture date do I need to be looking for?

victran
01-12-14, 13:46
S&W has the new sear housing block, slide release, and barrel on Midway USA. if you want your M&P to be running like the current production models and be able to upgrade to the Apex Tactical AEK and FSS then i suggest replacing your older sear housing block. the previous sear housing block has the sear plunger at 1/16th while the new production models have a 1/8th.

i have a 2012 production full size 9mm model that has generation two parts. the barrel shoots fine ~25m and i have the Apex RAM in it. i have a 2011 production M&P45 full size with the updated sear housing block to accommodate the Apex AEK trigger and FSS. the RAM gives out a crisper and tactile feeling reset (my M&P9) while the AEK w/ FSS makes the trigger feel like a 1911 (my M&P45) but lacks a crisper and tactile reset due to the new sear housing block incompatible to the Apex RAM.

the current stock production with the updated sear housing has the same trigger. same pre travel to the wall then break then the trigger reset is there but not as crisp and tactile as previously mentioned. you might just want to drop in the new production barrel that is at 1:10.

just my two cents. hope this helps. im still learning

SpeedRacer
01-12-14, 13:58
+1 to updating the sear block if nothing else, either by replacement or having Apex mill yours out to new spec. I had dead trigger issues on two different early M&Ps, both were G2G after having Apex mill for the larger plunger.

victran
01-12-14, 14:18
+1 to updating the sear block if nothing else, either by replacement or having Apex mill yours out to new spec. I had dead trigger issues on two different early M&Ps, both were G2G after having Apex mill for the larger plunger.

i believe Apex will just replace the previous sear housing with the current sear housing block for an extra $20-30 service charge if you send in your M&P to get the parts installed. imo the part are pretty easy to install via their video instructions on youtube.

what im interested in is the Salient Arms trigger kit that they do in house only for $250...by the looks of the very few videos they have of it on their facebook, it looks similar to the Apex AEK with FSS and functions the same.

Dacam
01-15-14, 11:10
Just let you know my experiences.
I recently purchased a new model M&P 9mm with the new sear block.
The reset is much more tactile and audible vs the older model guns. With that being said, you will get a better reset feel on a older model with Apex RAM.
I also installed the Apex FSS kit and it made a HUGE difference in trigger break, pull and shorter reset, all with a very smooth feel.
IMO, I would try to get a newer model or upgrade to a newer model sear block that excepts the larger sear spring. The reset on the new model is pretty decent and
usable.

SpeedEuphoria
01-16-14, 20:01
just got one last month trigger was smooth and crisp w nice reset but heavy pull. Did a trigger job and knocked prob 2lbs off deff a nice trigger now. I actually think I bent the trigger bar out when I was messing w it and the reset didn't seem as good. went back in and bent it back in and back to a very positive. I want to lighten the trigger a little more but going to add the thumb safety and if I dont like it I'll leave the trigger where its at

I got the crimson trace grip version which is the stuff BTW

getting ready to pickup a CT compact version soon