stuck comp

[matt86]

Anyone have any tips on how to get this comp off? There's no slots for a wrench so I put the upper in a barrel vise and tried vise grips on the comp, which just scratched the surface. I tightened up the vise grips and it wouldn't turn by hand, so I tried hitting the grips with a small hammer and it still won't budge. I didn't build it, so I didn't know if it had Rocksett on it, but I soaked the muzzle anyway for about an hour prior. My other thought it's to use a pipe wrench with cheater bar but wanted to check here first.
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g322/mattnewman/IMG_20140113_185935645_zpsj7fqpa9o.jpg (http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/mattnewman/media/IMG_20140113_185935645_zpsj7fqpa9o.jpg.html)

[Rascally]

Try a screwdriver inserted through the rear chamber.

[SpankMonkey]

Heat it up first then use a screw driver through the slots.

[wildcard600]

hit the comp with a propane torch for about 30 seconds and then try the screwdriver trick as above ^^^^

[Stickman]

Please make sure it isn't a 14.5" barrel...

[matt86]

Please make sure it isn't a 14.5" barrel...

Its 16". I thought about the screwdriver, wasn't sure if it would work. I'll try tommorow and report back.

[mpom]

would suggest soaking comp & threads in Kroil overnight, then attemp to remove. wrap screw driver electrical tape.

[MistWolf]

Remove the finish from the brake and see if it's been pinned & welded someplace. Also, check around the area where the barrel goes into the comp to see if it shows evidence of being silver soldered. It's possible the barrel isn't threaded or was assembled during the ban era.

As a last resort, you could make 2-4 longitudinal cuts on brake with a thin cutting wheel stopping short of cutting into the threads, then carefully break it apart with a hammer & chisel or use a srewdriver or other tool through the holes to twist it apart. Don't forget to use PTP (Protect The Product) before cutting

[Thump_rrr]

A good barrel vise and a 24" pipe wrench will remove nearly any muzzle device pinned or otherwise.

[Surf]

I have dealt with many similar devices. As mentioned 1st check to see if the device appears to be permanently attached as Mist Wolf mentions. You can try the screwdriver or bar through the holes but since you don't seem to mind marring up the device, I opt to just use a pipe wrench and cheater for this application. I also apply heat and might pre-soak it. Chucking up the barrel properly is generally the tricky part and I do it as close to the muzzle end of the barrel as I can. I chuck up the barrel and use water soaked leather to give the right traction to keep it from spinning and avoiding any marring of the barrel. Definitely do no use a receiver or action block. I know this may sound stupid but seen it done too many times.

[MistWolf]

...Chucking up the barrel properly is generally the tricky part and I do it as close to the muzzle end of the barrel as I can... Definitely do no use a receiver or action block...

This cannot be emphasized enough! Not only to keep from breaking the aluminum upper but to improve your mechanical advantage


I chuck up the barrel and use water soaked leather to give the right traction to keep it from spinning and avoiding any marring of the barrel

I've never thought of soaking the leather. Thanks for the tip!

[matt86]

Do you guys use leather in a set of barrel clamps or are you just wrapping the bbl and putting it in a vise?

[GH41]

Does it have a crush washer on it? Can't tell from the picture. If not my money is on MistWolf... Soldered/brazed. GH

[matt86]

No crush washer, and there's not really a finish on it to grind down.

[sadmin]

I removed a brake from a tantal that seemed impossible by soaking it overnight in white vinegar. I mean it was rusted on from the corrosive ammo...may try that.

[Col_Crocs]

Do you guys use leather in a set of barrel clamps or are you just wrapping the bbl and putting it in a vise?

Yes, in barrel clamps.

[matt86]

Sacrificed an old boot for a piece of leather, wet it and put it on the bbl, used a propane torch ,screwdriver , and boom. Came right off. Thanks for the help.
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g322/mattnewman/IMG_20140114_190625399_zpsvlerlcmh.jpg (http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/mattnewman/media/IMG_20140114_190625399_zpsvlerlcmh.jpg.html)

[MistWolf]

Success! Gotta love it when all the planning & preparation come together:moil:

[jerrysimons]

Where can I get some barrel clamps?
I have a factory installed Battle Comp 2 on a Recon barrel that my local shop is having a hard time breaking free. They are using an action block and are hesitant to torque the muzzle deceive more than 40ft/lbs to break it free. They tried heating the device up with a propane torch but still couldn't break it free.

Neither of us want to put that much torque on the barrel through the MD.

Any suggestions?

[matt86]

Your shop should already have the proper equipment, is be hesitant for them to work on my guns if they didn't. Barrel clamps can be bought from Brownells or Midway. Or you can be ghetto like me and build your own. I took a 2x4 that I cut 4" long, drilled a hole through it then cut it in half long ways. Then used a sanding drum on a dremel and opened up the groove to hold the barrel

[jerrysimons]

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-vise-jaws-sku795015100-12470-29522.aspx

Will the above barrel clamp fit on a 16" midlength gas barrel between the MD and gas block?

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=51729

Thanks matt, I am a little disappointed to find out they only had an upper vice block, the nylon kind that goes up into the receiver aswell as on the pin lugs, but my local options are quite limited where I am.

[matt86]

Yeah it should.

[jerrysimons]

Would the Geissele reaction rod be a safe way to remove the MD?
It looks to be the most versitile solution for a mounted barrel/complete upper and could be used on any length of gas system barrel length combination without worrying about marking the barrel.

[matt86]

It is, if you want to spend the money. If you go to the Midwest industries page, there's a video on a handgaurd install that a dude is doing on a 16" mid gas upper and he looks to be using the same bbl blocks you linked above.

[MistWolf]

You could use the Reaction Rod but the barrel will twist. Because part of the torque applied will go towards twisting the barrel, it makes removing stubborn muzzle devices even more difficult

[horseman234]

Another member here in a past thread recommended these vise jaw pads from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_209898-52800-BV-NVJ_0__?productId=3070247&Ntt=vise+jaw+pad&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dvise%2Bjaw%2Bpad&facetInfo=

I purchased a set, they have held up well, and are cheap. I have used them to remove several flash hiders, one of which required some substantial effort on my part, and the barrel did not twist.

[BigBubbaJ]

Those jaws look nice. And good price.

[jerrysimons]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?118152-Geissele-reaction-rod&p=1677738#post1677738

I went with the reaction rod for versatility after seeing Matt's reply and the above post from the reaction rod thread.
While it is not as ideal as locking the barrel in place just a few inches from the tourque applied at the stuck muzzle device, it is a lot less to mess with, especially with different barrel, gas, and handguard length combinations, and I don't have to worry about marring the barrel.
I guess if the torque required to break the sucker free starts getting close to the 150ft/lbs the barrel extension is torqued to the barrel with, then I will stop to get the barrels clamps also. But that is a little unrealistic, no?

Thanks guys!

[mpom]

I use the brownells equivalent of the RR with no fear. More convenient than barrel clamps, no need to remove handguard.

[jerrysimons]

Update:
With the Geissele reaction rod we were able to remove the BC 2.0, but only after 1/2hr soaking it in the ultrasonic cleaner.
I figured we were dealing with rockset since the BC2.0 is a suppressor mount and read from many on here that you could just wrentch through it with some applied heat if the upper was secured properly. This was not the case here. The water from the ultrasonic did the trick though.
Thanks folks.