barrel nut question / problem

[karlglen101]

I'm working on swapping my first hand guard. I have a Daniel Defense and I'm swapping the guard for a Samson / 556 Tactical. I purchased a standard barrel nut as we all know the DD's are proprietary and won't work on the new rail. The problem I'm having is getting the timing to line up for the gas tube. I'm perplexed. I marked where the timing starts on the nut, and there is no cheating it. I get it hand tight, pretty tight, and it's just about lined up perfectly. I've read that the torque should be between 30 ft-lb (min) and 80 (max). When I bump it at the bare minimum, it pushes it almost to the next spoke (about a full spoke's turn from hand tight). I've tried setting the wrench to the max 80, but it still doesn't line up. It looks like I'd need to hit it at around 100-110 (my guess) to get it to where it needs to be. I was hoping I could bump it somewhere inbetween the 30-80 but no dice. The only way I can get this to line up is to hit it just less than 30 and leave it lined up, or go past 80. I'm not going to do either, as I'm sure there is a trick to this that you can fill me in on :D
Dremel tool to take a spoke out?
Help is appreciated.

[discreet]

I'm working on swapping my first hand guard. I have a Daniel Defense and I'm swapping the guard for a Samson / 556 Tactical. I purchased a standard barrel nut as we all know the DD's are proprietary and won't work on the new rail. The problem I'm having is getting the timing to line up for the gas tube. I'm perplexed. I marked where the timing starts on the nut, and there is no cheating it. I get it hand tight, pretty tight, and it's just about lined up perfectly. I've read that the torque should be between 30 ft-lb (min) and 80 (max). When I bump it at the bare minimum, it pushes it almost to the next spoke (about a full spoke's turn from hand tight). I've tried setting the wrench to the max 80, but it still doesn't line up. It looks like I'd need to hit it at around 100-110 (my guess) to get it to where it needs to be. I was hoping I could bump it somewhere inbetween the 30-80 but no dice. The only way I can get this to line up is to hit it just less than 30 and leave it lined up, or go past 80. I'm not going to do either, as I'm sure there is a trick to this that you can fill me in on :D
Dremel tool to take a spoke out?
Help is appreciated.

Are you doing the 3x method? If no where close, I'd try another barrel nut. Somtimes the nut just won't get close but another will. Had the same issue recently. Swapped bbl nuts and it aligned at 53lbs. Perfect. 10$ for a new bbl nut is the way to go. Plenty of vendors out there that will have it to you quick. Heck if you really cant wait just have one overnighted. IMO for every build I buy 2 or 3 bbl nuts. That way they stock pile up for future builds and I never have to worry about issues.

[karlglen101]

3x method of tighten to 30, loosen, repeat, then set to 80 and line it up? Yes. I tried that. I probably attempted to get this sucker lined up 10-15 times. I figure it's a quality part, as I purchased it from BCM. I didn't know if this was a relatively common experience for some or not. I figure I'm just not doing something right. I thought about heating it up first, but decided against it as it's probably not a good idea with the grease. I was thinking that perhaps some heat would allow me to get it a little further and still be under 80.

[wetidlerjr]

I'm working on swapping my first hand guard...Help is appreciated.

This might tell you something.
Go to: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?82447-PLEASE-READ-THIS-FIRST-Custom-Build-AR-Forum

[discreet]

This might tell you something.
Go to: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?82447-PLEASE-READ-THIS-FIRST-Custom-Build-AR-Forum

PS this is also in the wrong forum and should probably be moved to technical.

[Iraqgunz]

Set the wrench to 30 ft./lbs. and then stop when it clicks. Put a cheater bar on the wrench and apply steady downward pressure until it lines up. Your other option is to get a few barrel nuts and try them out.

[Vec]

Set the wrench to 30 ft./lbs. and then stop when it clicks. Put a cheater bar on the wrench and apply steady downward pressure until it lines up. Your other option is to get a few barrel nuts and try them out.

you a lefty? im always pulling up when i tighten bbl nuts, im right hand dominate.

[markm]

I know you tried the multiple torqings... but you do have the Moly Grease on the threads right?

[munch520]

I know you tried the multiple torqings... but you do have the Moly Grease on the threads right?

Good point. If not OP grab that (or really any graphite-free grease)

[Ryno12]

you a lefty? im always pulling up when i tighten bbl nuts, im right hand dominate.

It has nothing to do with "which handed" you are.

For some it's easier to push down (since you won't be pushing your bench through the floor). However, you might lift your bench by pulling up if your bench is too light & not fastened to the floor.
It also depends how the upper is mounted in the vise & what side of the upper you're standing on. One way may be awkward.


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[mpom]

Lots of threads on what to do when barrel nut does not line up within recommended torque range; here is one: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?145347-Installing-USGI-barrel-nut-to-specific-torque-shaving-any-impeding-teeth-problem

Options are: Try other nuts.
Exceed recommended torque.
Use shim between receiver and barrel extension.
Use Brownell receiver front lapping tool.

Mark

[Iraqgunz]

No. Its called economy of motion. Whether you loosen or torque the barrel nut, it is much easier to do so by using downward motion than pulling it towards you. YMMV.


you a lefty? im always pulling up when i tighten bbl nuts, im right hand dominate.

[WS6]

No. Its called economy of motion. Whether you loosen or torque the barrel nut, it is much easier to do so by using downward motion than pulling it towards you. YMMV.

Fully agree here. Smarter not harder. You can be much more precise, as well. I'm OCD and can't imagine lining something up by pulling.

[karlglen101]

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. Yes, I'm using moly grease. Come to think of it though, I didn't grease the inside of the nut, just the receiver's threads. Maybe a light coat on both would help. The nut did have a fair amount of oil on it from the factory that I left on figuring it would just eventually dry up / burn off.

I have not tried pulling downwards, as I'm pulling horizontally. I have the Brownell's barrel extension torque bar. My wrench is in the vice, sitting horizontally. Place the upper vertically with the nut sitting in the wrench. Apply torque to the extension bar and the whole upper turns while the nut sits in the wrench. Seems to work very well, if this damn nut would line up!

I have ordered two more from Rainier and am patiently awaiting their arrival. It gave me an excuse to grab an Elzetta light mount and some other goodies. I thought I recalled reading somewhere prior that too much torque can be a bad thing. I don't recall why, pressure maybe if there is not enough flex?

Onto the next problem I'm working on, I need to get a semi-stripped hex head tension screw out of my Wilson 300's gas block. I knew better as it's pretty much brand new, so I heated the crap out of it hoping it would help burn/break the thread locker. One popped out just fine, the other I think was a little stripped inside from the get go.

Thanks again, guys.