View Full Version : Softening Recoil?
I am trying to soften up my recoil a little on one of my rifles, seems to hit pretty hard and sends brass pretty far. Almost seems over gassed.
I have a 16" colt 6920 barrel, carbine length gas system, Daniels Defense LPGB, running a Spikes Heavy buffer, Daniel defense buffer spring, Spikes BCG, standard A2 Flash hider.
I was thinking of adding the Spikes DynaComp, the extended one, not the shorty. I was also thinking about adding the VLTOR A5 buffer system. Will this help? Just want to calm the rifle down a little.
SilverBullet432
03-07-14, 10:49
Ive heard the lantac dragon is pretty good. Im thinking of getting me one.
I like the look, very tacticool for sure but pricey compared to the spikes Dynacomp. I would love to hear from someone on here that is using one if there is anything that shows a reduction in recoil. The rifle is manageable but for some reason it is my hardest hitting rifle I own, hands down for sure.
You should at a minimum switch to a REAL H2 Buffer. Spikes probably doesn't even spec out to an H buffer correctly from what I've read of those goofballs.
I can tell you this, the rifle cycles so hard it throws brass two to three booths down at the range. No excessive wear anywhere but it definitely could be softened up a little. I don't want one of those adjustable gas systems, seems like a failure point. Figured a comp and different buffer system.
Failure2Stop
03-07-14, 11:03
It is certainly overgassed, by design.
I recommend the A5 system over a brake. Better operation with no increase to blast, flash, and noise.
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An A5 is optimal, but you can start with a good (BCM, etc.) H2. Then comp it from there. For whatever reason, there's a lot of belief on this forum that because Colt puts an H buffer in, that's the only thing that should be run. It's simply not so.
It's been mathematically shown that the H2 most closely mimmicks the Rifle buffer system..... And that buffer system is the baseline. (A5 is the equivalent to a Rifle Buffer system)
Another thing you could try is this.... find a buddy with an AR and a rifle stock. Shoot your upper on that lower and see how it feels.
Yeah Jack I think I am going to start with the A5 system. I would like to try a break and the spikes Dynacomp seems to be the most affordable for the benefit. Mark had a good point of trying a rifle stocked lower but don't have any friends that use one of them. I just want more control of the rifle under heavier rates of fire.
BufordTJustice
03-07-14, 11:13
It is certainly overgassed, by design.
I recommend the A5 system over a brake. Better operation with no increase to blast, flash, and noise.
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This. Also, a YHM phantom 5C2 flash hider with a closed bottom can help keep the muzzle down.
OP, try a heavier A5H3 or A5H4 buffer to REALLY smooth things out. Also, use plenty of good lube like FireClean or slip 2k ewl.
EDIT: Looking at hybrid muzzle devices like the precision armament AFAB mini or the GA M4sd 2 flash comp keeps blast and flash low, but also adds cost.
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quaesitor logica
03-07-14, 11:18
adjustable gas block with that A-5 system and it will have the recoil of a burping baby
Mark hit it pretty much on the head. heres the order i would work in until you are satisfied which DOES get expensive if you are that concerned about it
1: order an H2 buffer, test results.
2: order vltor A5 buffer/tube kit, again, test results and play with different buffer sizes.
note: factory stock can be used but keep in mind that stock will not touch your receiver plate when fully collapsed due to length of the tube
3: order a decent comp, my recommendation goes to BCM or a precision armament AFAB mini as they are both well balanced comps
4: order a reputable mid-length barrel/gas tube
note: adco can modify your existing barrel by filling and moving the gas tube whole then you just need a new gas tube and maybe a gas block/front sight block(depending how you are setup now)
Ive got a Daniels H2 buffer I can try out and see is it makes any changes. I am leaning toward a A5 system as I see so many people happy with them. Comp wise I will check out the BCM, have you ever used it, did it make a difference in your rifle? As far as modifying a barrel, I would just assume grab another barrel and change the gas system building another upper but that is going to be a last resort. Thanks man.
quaesitor logica
03-07-14, 11:36
Ive got a Daniels H2 buffer I can try out and see is it makes any changes. I am leaning toward a A5 system as I see so many people happy with them. Comp wise I will check out the BCM, have you ever used it, did it make a difference in your rifle? As far as modifying a barrel, I would just assume grab another barrel and change the gas system building another upper but that is going to be a last resort. Thanks man.
With an adjustable gas block you can tune the gas to the buffer and spring, (unless your shooting full auto mag dumps) there are some very reliable adjustable gas blocks out there right now. Would require some changes to carbine.. like a FF handguard and some new sights.. but thats just part of the fun.
Yeah. I'm not big on barrel mods either. I have one adjustable gas block, but that is on a Sabre Defense 11.5 that was just massively overgassed beyond an H3 even taming it.
EzGoingKev
03-07-14, 11:39
I have an A5 and a Battlecomp on my 6920. Shoots softer, no issues.
The trouble with that is I am running a 15" VTAC rail, not a lot of room under that rail for gas blocks other than the Daniels or I could cut the fixed a2 off the FFSB that came on the barrel.
I would get the right buffer in your rifle before adding a compensator. The comp will just mask an over-gassing problem. Back when I was building rifles for people, I kept the whole range of buffers and springs on hand and would tune the rifles I built or worked on. It may not be worth it to you to go out and buy one of everything, but between your friends you may have enough options to figure out what you need.
My theory was to put the heaviest buffer in a rifle that wouldn't cause reliability problems. I would test it by loading the chamber and locking in a fully loaded, topped off 30 round magazine to put the greatest amount of resistance on the BCG. I would then fire the rifle "limp-wristed" from the hip. My goal was to ensure that the rifle would operate under worst-case conditions: resistance on the BCG and a poor shooting platform. I would also use the shooter's lightest intended load. I would put in progressively heavier buffers until the rifle failed to operate correctly under these conditions (and use the heaviest buffer that did not fail).
The result was that I likely put in slightly lighter buffers than others would in some circumstances, but I was making sure the rifle was reliable.
I sometimes would also test to make sure a buffer/spring combo wasn't too light. I usually used the too-light-buffer test to confirm that a suspected rifle did, in fact, have a buffer installed that was too light. To test for that, I would basically do the opposite of my previous test. I would load hot military loads with only two rounds in the magazine and a good coat of lube on the BCG. I would brace the butt stock against a fixed object and fire the rifle. A too light buffer would cause bolt-over malfunctions (bolt moving faster than the magazine could feed the next round) and/or the extractor would damage the cartridge case rim.
thopkins22
03-07-14, 11:46
I don't disagree at all with getting your carbine buffered properly. I'd certainly do that first, as a properly gassed and buffered carbine suits my tastes just fine...and honestly provided me with better gains in terms of splits than brakes did.
While it's all very subjective, and you can't automatically discount reports to the contrary, in my opinion if you do adjust the buffer/action spring setup and still want to tame it with a brake, going ahead and getting a full blown brake would be my advice. There's room in the world for brakes on 5.56 carbines; they help protect suppressors from erosion, save a little bit of time off splits when shooting very close targets(generally irrelevant amounts of time for most of us as compared to transitions etc...,) and they do cool things like pop holes in barricades during competition.
In my experience, the compromise brakes don't really compromise on anything other than their ability to actually reduce recoil. They're going to be nearly as concussive for shooters in close proximity as true brakes, will show a lot of flash compared to flash suppressors, and so forth. If you truly need a brake AND need to use it "tactically" then maybe the compromise brakes serve a purpose...but I don't really see a scenario(shy of having a sound suppressor mounted to it) where the benefits aren't outweighed by the negatives in that scenario vs. using a flash suppressor.
If you really want a brake, the best I've ever shot are designs that have been around a while. These are the three best I've ever experienced, though different shooters will prefer different impulses and there's no such thing as "best" because of that.
http://stores.sjcguns.com/lund-sjc-223-titan-compensator/
http://triangleshootingsports.com/products/rolling-thunder-comps/
http://www.surefire.com/sfmb-556-1-2-28.html
Things like flash suppression are much less subjective, though still subject to a tremendous number of variables like ammunition, ambient light, barrel length etc.... For instance you can see visible flash/flame out of those three brakes in full sunlight on shorter barrels with hot ammunition, and the jets of flame are still there at night. You cannot see flash out of a triple tap/battlecomp/PWS 556 brakes during the day, but there's nearly as much signature as the big brakes on very dark nights...they look like they're throwing a shower of sparks.
Appreciate the insight. I run a Daniels climb mitigator on one of my rifles but everything else has a standard A2 flash hider. Not much difference in the climb mitigator, little but not much. I am thinking of going with a A5 buffer system and start there. Think that by the time I purchase multiple buffers it would get costly.
I really appreciate the support, have to take off and will check back here later. All is very helpful, thanks in advanced.
I have an A5 and a Battlecomp on my 6920. Shoots softer, no issues.+1 for A5 and Battlecomp.
BufordTJustice
03-07-14, 12:18
Appreciate the insight. I run a Daniels climb mitigator on one of my rifles but everything else has a standard A2 flash hider. Not much difference in the climb mitigator, little but not much. I am thinking of going with a A5 buffer system and start there. Think that by the time I purchase multiple buffers it would get costly.
Yeah, leave the gas block alone.
If you don't want to grab a new muzzle device, take a look at the lmt enhanced carrier....but just the carrier. It serves the same end as an adjustable gas block and helps reduce recoil. I use it with the A5 system and there's no going back for me.
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EzGoingKev
03-07-14, 12:23
I forgot, I have LMT's enhanced carrier installed also.
...In my experience, the compromise brakes don't really compromise on anything other than their ability to actually reduce recoil. They're going to be nearly as concussive for shooters in close proximity as true brakes...
I have to disagree with this. I've encountered several "true brakes" mounted on barrels from SBR lengths to a full 20 inches. All have been significantly more concussive than the Battlecomp mounted on a 16 inch barrel. I grant that the BC isn't as efficient at reducing flash as an A2, but it's much better than a bare muzzle or brake. I can't say the BC reduces recoil but it does soften it significantly.
I don't know about other "hybrid" devices, I've only experience with the BC and the Belgian combo device on an FAL
thopkins22
03-07-14, 12:56
I have to disagree with this. I've encountered several "true brakes" mounted on barrels from SBR lengths to a full 20 inches. All have been significantly more concussive than the Battlecomp mounted on a 16 inch barrel. I grant that the BC isn't as efficient at reducing flash as an A2, but it's much better than a bare muzzle or brake. I can't say the BC reduces recoil but it does soften it significantly.
I don't know about other "hybrid" devices, I've only experience with the BC and the Belgian combo device on an FAL
I think the Battlecomp does a pretty good job of reducing/softening/changing/whatever-ing recoil...not as good as a more aggressive brake though. There isn't as much concussion, but it's much closer to a muzzle brake concussion than an A2. Certainly the Battlecomp may qualify as best of breed here. I'm just not sure that the breed serves much purpose.
I don't really want to take this thread off the tracks, but I guess my point is that recoil reducing muzzle devices and flash suppressing muzzle devices are pretty much mutually exclusive. The compromises wind up pretty damned close to either being brakes or being flash suppressors. Even the A2 is a little bit of a compromise away from being a true flash suppressor. The Battlecomp is much more compensator than the Vortex, but the A2 is much more suppressor than compensator. I'm not sure that depending on your needs the juice of a brake or the juice of a flash suppressor isn't worth the extra squeeze to get as compared to those sitting on the fence.
Not totally fair as it's through a PVS14, but here is footage of a Surefire brake, a Battlecomp, and an A2 at night.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UN3IDH9FqjE&list=PLB0F5C8B42D95C6DA&feature=share&index=7
Heavier buffers or a carrier weight system will help smooth out your recoil impulses without monkeying with your muzzle device.
heavybuffers.com is a good place to start.
http://heavybuffers.com/images/Buffer%20Table.jpg
http://heavybuffers.com/images/Buffer%20Sales%20Chart.gif
any experience with the Daniel Defense Climb Mitigator in comparison with the BC?
Great info, thanks Sinister.
ColtSeavers
03-07-14, 15:48
Have you thought about going with a rifle buffer system? If weight is a concern (outside of the rifle buffer weight itself) there's the ARFX skeleton stock (a1 10" length I believe before adding butt pads) and the Magpul rifle stocks (a2 length or a bit longer if memory serves) that aren't very heavy at all.
Also, for a muzzle brake that won't break the bank, look into the Manticore Arms AR15 Nightbrake. Ploufdaddy (sorry if that's misspelled) has a video out on them and recommends them as best bang for the buck offering extremely similar performance to the BattleComp (and therefore I would assume Dynacomp as well) for half the price ($57).
With the A5 RE, do you use the RE-10 6 or A5 7 position? Been looking myself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnrVJT4UU10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM1RBnVuOjw
black22rifle
03-08-14, 18:15
have you considered a springco spring in combination with a heavier buffer?
My 6920 was WAY over gassed too.
I did a lot that helped--H2, stronger spring, SF mb556k brake (Lantac is probably better for less money--unless you want a suppressor), etc.
It definitely got MUCH better--but cutting it down to a 14.5" helped the most I think.
They didn't have the A5 back then, but that supposedly helps too.
Of course, you could sell the upper and get a BCM KMR 16" middy with a nice comp/brake, too. ;)
My 6920 was WAY over gassed too.
I did a lot that helped--H2, stronger spring, SF mb556k brake (Lantac is probably better for less money--unless you want a suppressor), etc.
It definitely got MUCH better--but cutting it down to a 14.5" helped the most I think.
They didn't have the A5 back then, but that supposedly helps too.
Of course, you could sell the upper and get a BCM KMR 16" middy with a nice comp/brake, too. ;)
Your 6920 is not WAY over gassed.
C4
It was bought in like 1998 or so (an LE marked one with a semi-auto BCG, which was weird--but original). Even the guy I bought it from at a still-extant gun store online said it seemed over gassed. The deflector was beaten to hell, which everyone seemed to notice, and it sent cases about 12-15ft away at 2:30-3; the gun also got much dirtier than other guns with the same amount of rounds.
I had a shade-tree gunsmith shooting with me who thought it was overgassed, but maybe it just had weak springs or something. I did a lot to it (listed above) and it really softened up.
Again, maybe there was another explanation(s) like weak springs.
(Just remembered I got it from a guy at Talon Arms--I think they're still around, but this was a used gun they sold me right when they were starting out.)
EzGoingKev
03-08-14, 21:27
It was bought in like 1998 or so (an LE marked one with a semi-auto BCG, which was weird--but original).
My 6920 was purchased early/mid 90's and came with a half moon bolt carrier.
I am going to try a H2 buffer tomorrow, leaning more toward ordering a A5 system for that rifle though.
I don't know much about the springco stuff, which spring to order???
vicious_cb
03-08-14, 22:13
I don't know much about the springco stuff, which spring to order???
Blue spring for a carbine spring or green spring for the a5 kit.
With the A5 RE, do you use the RE-10 6 or A5 7 position? Been looking myself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnrVJT4UU10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM1RBnVuOjw
Use the 6 hole RE->
http://www.vltorstore.com/re-10-a5sr-ar10-a5-short-rail-receiver-extension/
The 6 hole allows a Magpul STR to almost bump the castle nut. About 2 threads shy.
The 7 hole is about 1/2" away from the castle nut. But the Magpul fixed carbine stock fits perfectly on both.
My 6920 was purchased early/mid 90's and came with a half moon bolt carrier.
Ah, that's probably what I had--I just knew it wasn't an FA because my friend thought it was odd that it wasn't (and thought the heavier FA might slightly help with what he and others saw as a very overgassed gun). I didn't really notice, but I was shooting mostly AKs back then--even my Jim Fuller SGL-21 came back with holes drilled in it because it was over-gassed according to Mr. Fuller. So apparently, I'm just a gassy person. ;o)
My new BCM 14.5" middy doesn't feel quite as nice and smooth as Vickers' 16" BCM mid did--and now I'm wondering if he had an A5 in there or if he had a different carrier or what...or maybe his was just more broken in and soaked in FireClean (mine only had 300rds so far--but will get another 500 this week, and 550 next weekend in a class--all xm193).
black22rifle
03-09-14, 00:00
I don't know much about the springco stuff, which spring to order???
Sprinco recommends a red spring for a 16" carbine barrel.
http://www.sprinco.com/tactical.html
Steel head
03-09-14, 00:10
On my carbine gassed 16 a H2 buffer helped smooth things out as did a Rainier XTC comp, later I tried an A5 buffer system and that helped even more, enough that I took the comp off and put the A2 back on.
BufordTJustice
03-09-14, 01:09
I have owned every single Springco spring and have tried each spring with every carbine format buffer.
The killer app for the carbine setup is a white spring with an h3 or an h2 if your gun won't lock back with an h3. Closest you can get to A5 performance without going A5.
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black22rifle
03-09-14, 01:40
That sounds sweet. My midlength runs an H2 with a springco blue on Tula.
RogerinTPA
03-09-14, 11:41
That sounds sweet. My midlength runs an H2 with a springco blue on Tula.
With the exception of my 16 inch carbine length guns, which have red springco springs with H2s, the others, which are middy's and a SBR, have blue springs with H2 buffers...shooting wolf ammo.:jester:
Use the 6 hole RE->
http://www.vltorstore.com/re-10-a5sr-ar10-a5-short-rail-receiver-extension/
The 6 hole allows a Magpul STR to almost bump the castle nut. About 2 threads shy.
The 7 hole is about 1/2" away from the castle nut. But the Magpul fixed carbine stock fits perfectly on both.
Thank You Sir.
It was bought in like 1998 or so (an LE marked one with a semi-auto BCG, which was weird--but original). Even the guy I bought it from at a still-extant gun store online said it seemed over gassed. The deflector was beaten to hell, which everyone seemed to notice, and it sent cases about 12-15ft away at 2:30-3; the gun also got much dirtier than other guns with the same amount of rounds.
I had a shade-tree gunsmith shooting with me who thought it was overgassed, but maybe it just had weak springs or something. I did a lot to it (listed above) and it really softened up.
Again, maybe there was another explanation(s) like weak springs.
(Just remembered I got it from a guy at Talon Arms--I think they're still around, but this was a used gun they sold me right when they were starting out.)
Was the barrel actually a Colt?? Did any of the folks that looked at the gun measure the gas port size???
C4
I guess I am going to try a Sprinco set up with an H2 and see how that helps. I really want an A5 to try but afraid if I like it that much I will want to modify all of my rifles then.
How about mid length systems. I have a few Daniels rifles and may work on one of them as well?
black22rifle
03-09-14, 14:02
Yes, you can use them for mid lengths also. Check the link I posted for Sprinco's recommendations.
I just did, thanks again man. I have a version 1 Daniels as well. I think I am going to pick up the A5 for the Colt system and try a sprinco set up in my version 1.
BufordTJustice
03-09-14, 14:12
I guess I am going to try a Sprinco set up with an H2 and see how that helps. I really want an A5 to try but afraid if I like it that much I will want to modify all of my rifles then.
How about mid length systems. I have a few Daniels rifles and may work on one of them as well?
I'll put it this way, choosing a buffer system (weight and spring type) depends on whether you are going to use a hybrid muzzle device (Griffin M4SD II, PA AFAB Mini, PWS FSC556, BC, BCM comp, etc.) or simply a flash hider (A2, Vortex, Blackout, BE 241, etc.).
If you are going to use a hybrid comp, stick with the Springco WHITE and go with as heavy a buffer as you can (you'll be able to run at least an H2 unless your gun is an SR15 or a straight POS).
If you are only running a flash hider, a Springco BLUE may help to reduce net muzzle rise when paired with an H2 or H3 buffer....but, using the BLUE with an H2+ AND any type of hybrid muzzle device (and anything resembling a decent stance) will, in my extensive experience, typically result in muzzle dip as the BCG returns to battery when chambering a subsequent round.
Make sense?
Was the barrel actually a Colt?? Did any of the folks that looked at the gun measure the gas port size??? C4
I know it was a Colt barrel, because some said they'd never cut a Colt barrel down (something about the markings or whatever). No one measured the gas port and I didn't ask ADCO to when they cut it down for me. It was tamed after all my mods, and a great gun--I just always assumed it was overgassed due to the symptoms. I'm guessing it was made between 1994-1997--I just know it had large pins and what I thought was a semi-auto BCG (hadn't heard of half-moon--but the pin was exposed a bit).
Not one jam in the 5K I put through it, and I got it used. Was always accurate and just a great gun. It was my second AR (the first was a Bushmaster, but I couldn't turn down the deal on the Colt so I sold the Bushy).
------
Note: Speaking of softening recoil, I just ordered the Blue Sprinco and an H2 buffer to see how that runs in the new BCM 14.5" middy with KMR. I'll polish the bearing surfaces of the carrier, and put 200-300rds through it before the Defoor class this weekend to check for function (and I'll have other buffers, springs and a bolt in the spare parts bag when I go).
quaesitor logica
03-09-14, 16:29
Why is it that adjustable gas blocks are being ignored as a viable tool to reduce recoil? When your playing with buffers and springs to reduce recoil all your trying to do is absorb as much energy provided by gas while maintaining a functioning weapon (and maybe bolt bounce if its an issue). This is exactly what an adjustable gas block is great at. Couple an adjustable gas block with the A-5 system, you can tune butter smooth and have the flexibility that tuning with only a buffer and spring cannot provide.
Don't have room under rail for anything other than a BCM or Daniels Gas Block, Because of 15" VTAC rail.
quaesitor logica
03-09-14, 18:45
Don't have room under rail for anything other than a BCM or Daniels Gas Block, Because of 15" VTAC rail.
http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=61234
http://slrrifleworks.com/image/data/slr/SA7/SA7SSCDIM.jpg
100% Gas seal allows full cut off and prevents gas from fouling metering screw
- Complete disassembly is simple and take less than 10 seconds
- Metering screw and screw bore design allows repeatability and reliability only SLR has been able to deliver
- Single tool click to adjust gas metering
- Heat treated 4140 Precision machined gas block
- Nexturn Swiss precision metering screw
- 6AL-4V Titanium Leaf Spring detent mechanism
- 316 SS detent plunger
- NO tiny springs to corrode, break or seize / NO tiny ball to seize or get lost
- 100% Lifetime Guarantee
This fits under an MISSG2 rail that has a smaller I.D than the VTAC. All you do to tune it is completely close it, dial out about 3 clicks, Load one round in the magazine and fire, open one click at a time, repeat until your bcg locks back and presto, you have the equivalent of the perfect gas port for your chosen ammo. If you get a smokin deal on some cheap low-pressure plinkin ammo and your rifle starts acting up... open up the gas block a bit.
I will check that out. Thanks.
quaesitor logica
03-09-14, 19:03
I will check that out. Thanks.
Glad to help. Using the buffer spring and buffer is a proven way to approach this problem as many of the knowledgeable folks on this thread have suggested. I like to point out the gas block approach as another option to people. There isnt any type of .223/5.56 ammo that I have run into that my two adjustable GB/A-5 equipped rifles cant be tuned to run reliably and smoothly. After i am done with low pressure ammo I adjust my rifle to my go-to ammo in less than 30 seconds, just dial completely closed and dial out to my pre-recorded setting ( hi-tech Laminated card in my pistol grip)
Is there a chart somewhere that illustrates the power differences for ammo? I've heard PMC Bronze is pretty weak, how does it stack up to Wolf and Tula, and something like AE 193 or CBC 62 gr?
EzGoingKev
03-10-14, 11:45
When I shoot PMC Bronze through my rifles it is like shooting a pellet gun.
I will check that out. Thanks.
I have a couple guns with adjustable gas and there is something you'll need to know. First, not all ammo is pressured the same, so set it to handle the lightest load and it should be ready for anything. You can tweak to each load for max effect, but this would be the most reliable all-purpose setting. Second, it has been my experience that you can lighten the buffer assembly with reduced gas. If you go H2/H3 and heavy spring, then you may not be able to take full advantage of the adjustable gas.
Mine is tuned so that it won't function reliably without the silencer mounted. It'll short stroke. But with the can on, that sucker runs like a rifle gas system. (It has a break, so the can is effectively dedicated)
quaesitor logica
03-10-14, 20:03
I have a couple guns with adjustable gas and there is something you'll need to know. First, not all ammo is pressured the same, so set it to handle the lightest load and it should be ready for anything. You can tweak to each load for max effect, but this would be the most reliable all-purpose setting. Second, it has been my experience that you can lighten the buffer assembly with reduced gas. If you go H2/H3 and heavy spring, then you may not be able to take full advantage of the adjustable gas.
Excellent points.
mastiffhound
03-10-14, 23:03
I've been watching this thread as I'd like a little less recoil also. I don't know if I can justify it because I don't shoot well enough yet to make much of a difference. I had looked at a few muzzle brakes but kept the A2 on others advice here. I do like the miniscule amount of recoil my rifle length has, it's much less than my BCM carbine. I'm probably just going to go with an A5 as that seems to be the best route.
I haven't bought PMC in years, it wouldn't cycle my Mini-14 half the time (it would throw Wolf, XM193, American Eagle, and pretty much every other brands cases about 20 yards) and it was tearing case heads. I actually got one stuck when it ripped a case head completely off. After inspection with a micrometer of a XM193 and Remington cases I came to the conclusion that the brass was poorly formed and thinner, sorry I can't remember by how much. It scared the hell out of me that I could have had a KB if it had actually been loaded to spec, it could have been a bad batch but who knows. I just chalked it up as being the reason it was cheaper than XM193 and I've avoided it ever since.
I just ordered a A5 system and a new BCM Mod 1 compensator
EzGoingKev
03-11-14, 14:16
I just ordered a A5 system and a new BCM Mod 1 compensator
I do not think you will be disappointed.
SilverBullet432
03-11-14, 14:24
Im running the surefire mb556k, less felt recoil for sure! Concussion yes, but im getting used to it.
Paired with my H buffer, I like the way my carbine runs now.
Carne Frio
03-12-14, 00:30
I put a Mako recoil reducing stock on a Bushmaster MOE .308.
It reduces the felt recoil quite a bit. I don't know how much
benefit it would be on a 5.56.
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=NAGLSHOCKCP&src=tpMfg
Have you tried this combination with a H2 buffer and Red Sprinco spring? How well did it work? I have two other mid lengths and two other carbines I am wanting to modify and smooth out a little.
I bought an A5 system this week and love it to say the least but do not want to spend $120 to modify each of my other rifles, going to get very costly in the end otherwise but I have a few H2 buffers, buying a few $20 springs won't break much, LOL.
Yankee hill phantoms are my preference, affordable too.
Lantac Dragon brake is what you are looking for.
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