PDA

View Full Version : VLTOR Clamp On Gas Block



jerhelo
03-24-14, 20:40
I generally use the Daniels Defense clamp on gas blocks but for some reason my LGS is out and has a few VLTOR clamp on gas blocks. They look a little more stout than the Daniels, anyone on here have any experience with them, any issues with slipping down the barrel???

discreet
03-24-14, 21:17
I generally use the Daniels Defense clamp on gas blocks but for some reason my LGS is out and has a few VLTOR clamp on gas blocks. They look a little more stout than the Daniels, anyone on here have any experience with them, any issues with slipping down the barrel???

Assuming your speaking about the lo pro ones.

They are solid gas blocks. Have one in both .750 and.625 and they work. Nuff said.

My .625 however barely, and I mean barely cleared my Fortis rail so I'd definitely make sure you have enough clearance. IMO if you have a pre dimpled barrel I'd just go with a set screw gb personally.

Vltors also clamp hard, and won't twist easily. They go on smooth also (if issues can always use a flathead to open it up just a tad without damaging the GB). Only thing I'd recommend is to go easy on torque. The set screw that has the hole cut out vertically between the clamp ends is an easy one to strip if you overdo it as there isn't as much material as on the other hole. Outside of that I haven't had an issue with either.

jerhelo
03-24-14, 22:25
There is a vertical and two horizontal screws??? I only noticed the two horizontal screws.

discreet
03-24-14, 22:27
There is a vertical and two horizontal screws??? I only noticed the two horizontal screws.

No, there are 2 horizontal screws, with a hole/cutout vertically down the middle of the block towards one side. Lines up perfectly with a pre dimpled barrel to help center the block

jerhelo
03-24-14, 22:28
Thats what I thought, was a little confused by your other post.

discreet
03-24-14, 23:10
Thats what I thought, was a little confused by your other post.

Yup, thought it may have. Basically it reduces the threaded area by a bit, thus cranking it down too tight will possibly strip it. Just something to pay attention to while doing and not slam it on and it will be just fine. IMO these are def a step up from the slightly larger DD blocks.

All my Vltor blocks are being phased out by V7 blocks as time goes on however.

mpom
03-25-14, 08:52
Went with the VLTOR low pro clamp on GB as well, and no issues. Was concerned that it might move, but even with the 2 screws lightly tightened, I could not budge the block, so doubt it will move when they are truly tight.
Did "witness mark" the block and each screw head with a spot of bright yellow paint, so if screw self loosens, I will know it ASAP. Not likely since I used high temp/mod strength lock tite on threads, but no harm.

discreet
03-25-14, 11:11
Went with the VLTOR low pro clamp on GB as well, and no issues. Was concerned that it might move, but even with the 2 screws lightly tightened, I could not budge the block, so doubt it will move when they are truly tight.
Did "witness mark" the block and each screw head with a spot of bright yellow paint, so if screw self loosens, I will know it ASAP. Not likely since I used high temp/mod strength lock tite on threads, but no harm.

Yea it was Vltor that was used for the twisting tests. They sheared the index pin and basically rendered the upper unusable before the gb slipped. Think it was one of their GB's with the built in front sight, but none the less they still use a 2 screw clamping method. Twisting shouldn't be an issue.

polydeuces
03-25-14, 15:39
Use(d) both DD and VLTOR (clamp) GB's, they're totally GTG, as one should expect.
1000's of rounds, running hot, never any movement whatsoever. (make sure you use loctite red though)

Too bad neither makes an adjustable GB.

mpom
03-25-14, 16:04
Side note, but stopped using red loctite, as its a hassle to undo, requiring a torch rather than hand tools, due to being high strength.
Prefer 246, which is med strength, but high temp, so fasteners can be undone with hand tools, no heat needed, yet resist vibration, high temp, oil etc.

polydeuces
03-25-14, 16:24
Anyone else having experience w 246? So far red loctite has always served me well on clamp GB's
Using a torch is really no big deal, but knowing how hot them GB's get when we get happy firing away, been in the back of my head wondering how that affects long term hold.

dentron
03-25-14, 17:02
I would think 2422 would be the correct loctite. Same strength as 246 but good to 650 deg. I don't think red loctite has any place on an AR.