View Full Version : Lubrication in 2014? Too many damn choices.
mastiffhound
04-02-14, 20:30
The great thing about this day and age is the staggering amount of lubricants available. It's also a bad thing. I've been using Hoppes #9 and Remoil since I was a kid except the grease pop used on his M1A. Back then it was really all that was available besides wacky motor oil, transmission fluid, and marvel mystery oil blends made by the local hermit. I've finally come to the ending of my supply and want to get something that will work better for storage, cleaning, and lubrication during use. Just a look at the offerings from Brownell's and I just don't know what actually works and what is crap. I even saw that Lucas motor oils has gun lube, offering it at the local auto parts store of all places. It won't be on the list, it just makes the point that everyone makes gun lube now.
This will be a poll with many of options and actual use is what I'm looking for, not hearsay about how my cousin Billy Bob uses it. I'm going to go with stuff I've heard of. If you have used something that is better for storage, cleaning, and lubrication during use, then by all means leave it in a post. They are in no particular order. As always thanks for the insight!
BufordTJustice
04-02-14, 20:41
FireClean. It is, quite simply, the new standard.
Lawnchair 04
04-02-14, 20:45
still rocking slip 2000. hasnt failed me yet.
SomeOtherGuy
04-02-14, 20:50
Not on your list - WeaponShield oil.
I have had very good results with FP-10 and SLIP2000. I've had excellent results with Froglube when it's relatively new and the weather is warm. My experience is that it eventually dries into sticky, chalky crud with little lubricating quality, and isn't good at sub freezing temperatures. YMMV...
Not going to vote on this one yet, as I'm still testing fireclean. Will vote when I get more data.
still rocking slip 2000. hasnt failed me yet.
Glad to see I am not the only one still running Slip 2K. The Slip 2K grease to be exact
Run it on all my guns currently, whether it is a Glock, AR, Beretta, 1911, or any of my shotguns. Not had an issue with it yet and have enough to last me years currently. Is it the end all be all? Not sure, then again don't think any lube is. Might change things up in about three years when I run out, but not in a hurry.
wildcard600
04-02-14, 21:28
break free clp, slip 2K, SAE 30 motor oil, whichever is closest while I'm lubing the guns.
I've got better shit to do with my time than worry about things like that. With that being said, I don't use SAE 30 in the winter for obvious reasons.
MSparks909
04-02-14, 21:32
Fireclean convert here. Stuff makes a definite difference in the ease at which I can lubricate and subsequently clean my weapons later on, even weeks after the last shooting.
Who here enjoys inhaling aerosolized lube? Or smearing chemicals all over their skin and leaving it on for hours?
There's more to lube than what simply works. Good news is nowadays you can have your cake and eat it, too.
Slip 2000 is great but I absolutely love FireClean!
Levi
I have used all but Rand CLP, ISSO, and Kroil. Fireclean has been the best, with SL!P and MPRO-7 being a close second, the advantage with Fireclean has been it's ability to stay on the parts even months after application. I was most underwhelmed with Froglube. I prefer using non-toxic as I frequently shoot suppressed and having toxic gasses blown back into your face is not very pleasant.
Blankwaffe
04-02-14, 22:23
As for your selection on the poll list, I'd vote Slip2000.
What I use,prefer and would recommend is Weapon Shield CLP.
anatolian B
04-02-14, 22:33
Same here, I put SLIP 2k on everything that needs lube, well, excluding the wife.
Not on your list - WeaponShield oil.
I have had very good results with FP-10 and SLIP2000. I've had excellent results with Froglube when it's relatively new and the weather is warm. My experience is that it eventually dries into sticky, chalky crud with little lubricating quality, and isn't good at sub freezing temperatures. YMMV...
SomeOtherGuy
04-02-14, 22:43
Same here, I put SLIP 2k on everything that needs lube, well, excluding the wife.
Well, "Rick Taylor" endorses Snake Oil.... it's a gun lube, mouthwash and personal lubricant all in one!
http://vuurwapenblog.com/2013/05/12/rick-taylor-endorses-snake-oil/
Mbest11x endorses liberal tears.
http://article15.storefrontier.com/prod/Liberal-Tears-Gun-Lubricant
SilverBullet432
04-02-14, 22:48
http://i62.tinypic.com/2rlyfdl.jpg
I use Slip 2k grease and normal slip 2k. Haven't tried Fireclean, but would if I saw some. Not gonna order any 'till I am out.
I got a tub of the froglube paste last year and it's lasting a lot longer than I expected. So I'll keep using that.
I also have a bottle of slip 2000 still sitting on a shelf mainly because the spray nozzle broke. So it's a pain to use. Not slip 2k's fault; my own fault for being lazy and not mitigating the problem.
And I have a zip lock baggie full of sample size single use packs of break free that were free for the taking at my lgs a couple years ago. I'll keep using those too.
Not one of the lubes mentioned above have failed me in any way. I think it mostly comes down to keeping our guns clean and lubed in the first place. Surely don't use WD-40 or canola oil, but you get the point.
If I see some fireclean, I might get it. But I won't be purposely looking for it either.
Slip 2000 EWL.
I have a few bottles of it, so I'm stocked up for a year or two now.
There are a shit ton of lube threads on this site already. Use the search button, and pick one for yourself.
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Fireclean without a doubt. I'm about to order my second bottle.
Rand clp, fire clean and weapon shield have been my favorites. Currently using fireclean and it seems to work exceptionally well on suppressed guns.
We'll allow this one to stand since there is a poll. But generally the lube debate has been debated.
My first choice is Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, but it was not listed.
My second choice is Break Free-CLP, but it is a distant second.
I'm gonna be the odd man out and say brownells xtreme friction defense. It goes on runny and then after a couple minutes it kinda sets up. Not sure what makes it work but I once ran 5000 rounds in 4 months with no cleaning I just kept the ddm4v1's bolt wet and had only three failures all with the same brownells mag, I found that that particular mag body was kinda smushed and was causing the follower to drag/hang up causing bolt over base failures. After I riddled it with .224 size holes i had no further problems.
Would other lubes perform just as well, yes, I'm sure several would. But after this little test I purchased 12 bottles so I'm kinda stocked up lol.
Used Breakfree CLP for some years as it was readily available and mil issue. I found that when sitting for longer periods it would gum up. It did protect from corrosion pretty well on my carry. When FP-10 came along I did some research on it and found recommendations by some people in the know. I used it for a few years and was much happier with the results overall. I also liked the rep and attitude of George Fennell the developer, who is also a shooter. After he parted ways with the FP-10 company I was looking for a replacement. I found Weaponshield and George again. Weaponshield is the best all around gun lube/CLP that I have used. After some testing and extended use I bought a large qty.
Froglube sounds like a wonder product but I am not about to try anything I need to bake on. If I was going to start with a new lube today I would try Machine Gunners lube from Tactical Springs. It is based on Molybdenum Di-sulfide that is processed to not separate from the synthetic carrier like other Moly lubes do. My own experience with Moly oil additives in motorcycles leads me to believe that it would be a fantastic gun lubricant.
I use either the CLP milspec stuff made by Royal in the clear pint bottles (got a case at an estate sale for $5 years ago) or Slip2K EWL. Depends on what I grab off the shelf.
Please read the Froglube directions. There is no need to bake anything. You simply warm it up.
I used WeaponShield in Iraq for a couple of years and liked it. I am interested in checking out George's latest stuff and once I have some samples I will give it a go.
Used Breakfree CLP for some years as it was readily available and mil issue. I found that when sitting for longer periods it would gum up. It did protect from corrosion pretty well on my carry. When FP-10 came along I did some research on it and found recommendations by some people in the know. I used it for a few years and was much happier with the results overall. I also liked the rep and attitude of George Fennell the developer, who is also a shooter. After he parted ways with the FP-10 company I was looking for a replacement. I found Weaponshield and George again. Weaponshield is the best all around gun lube/CLP that I have used. After some testing and extended use I bought a large qty.
Froglube sounds like a wonder product but I am not about to try anything I need to bake on. If I was going to start with a new lube today I would try Machine Gunners lube from Tactical Springs. It is based on Molybdenum Di-sulfide that is processed to not separate from the synthetic carrier like other Moly lubes do. My own experience with Moly oil additives in motorcycles leads me to believe that it would be a fantastic gun lubricant.
DarkTemplars
04-03-14, 05:49
I use Wilson Ultimalube personally. In active duty, we used Breakfree CLP.
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davidjinks
04-03-14, 06:36
It's not on the list, but I moved to G96.
One of the best CLP, Lubes I've used to date. Easy on, easy off. Relatively inexpensive. After a couple treatments to my parts, my cleaning regimen has been reduced significantly.
I have been using MPro-7 gun cleaner, and their lube product for a few years now, and really like it. I have never even heard of Fireclean before, but will give it a try when I run out of MPro-7.
Been using Froglube for a while now with no issues and recently started using Fireclean on LAV's recommendation during class.
Why do people care so much about this? You can use motor oil, bike grease, etc. If it lubricates metal on metal surfaces, it'll generally work.
If you want to buy into the latest weapons lube craze, go ahead. It'll generally work too.
Socom Elite
04-03-14, 07:45
I use High Temp wheel bearing grease. Only $5 for a lifetime supply at walmart.
ScatmanCrothers
04-03-14, 07:59
TW25B and MC2500 have made everything else obsolete for me. Mil comm's system is fool proof and performs excellently. I'll also use fireclean with no issues, great stuff.
Why do people care so much about this? You can use motor oil, bike grease, etc. If it lubricates metal on metal surfaces, it'll generally work.
If you want to buy into the latest weapons lube craze, go ahead. It'll generally work too.
Ill stick to the non toxic stuff vs the motor oil being blown in my face when suppressed.
It's an interesting poll. Odd that Froglube got more than 4 votes. I read that only 4 people from this site use it and everyone else had their gun quit running and they turned gay from it. :sarcastic:
SilverBullet432
04-03-14, 08:39
ive been using break-free on all my guns for over 2 years now, and have not had any problems to date. I do use froglube paste to "clean" the exterior of my guns ( and to "lube" my glock) all others get a clp bath as far as mechanical parts go.
It's an interesting poll. Odd that Froglube got more than 4 votes. I read that only 4 people from this site use it and everyone else had their gun quit running and they turned gay from it. :sarcastic:
And I heard you sold all your ARs and started using exclusively LWRC ;)
Levi
And I heard you sold all your ARs and started using exclusively LWRC ;)
They make the best guns.... Just ask them. :)
Rands, FL, FC, CLP, they all work. I try to use grease for my pistols and a mix on my M4s. I think how and where you apply is much more important than what brand you use so long as it is a decent lube.
Why no love for Militech?
Trying FireClean now, but M Pro 7 has served me well for the last 15 plus years. I've also used whatever was available too with good results.
R600
plouffedaddy
04-03-14, 10:04
Well…. since the poll question was which lubricant has worked the best so I voted FireClean. Stuff seems to live up to the hype.
Now, do 95% of all weapon lubricants work just fine? Yup. Just pick the one with the feature set you like and roll with it :D
I've had nothing but awesome results with Slip2000 for many years, so I haven't ever felt the need to change. I never could get myself to buy froglube, but I am interested to try FireClean. Maybe i'll pick some up in the near future and try it for fun.
At the end of the day, there is a bunch of stuff that will do the job just fine, and it seems people get way to hyped up worrying about which one is best.
I have 1 bottle left of LSA I use sparingly. Mobile 1 normally.
Why isn't lard on the list? It it was good enough for General Washington's troops it's good enough for me :p
I am still working through my bottle of Machine Gunners Lube, which wasn't listed.
So far I prefer it over the Break Free CLP (for lubrication).
"0" weight grease and CLP or slip2000 for oil.
There are so many lubes because we gun owners tend to overthink gun lube and think we are better than the next guy at selecting one for its superior properties as touted in the marketing hype.
Got my hand on some Fireclean a month ago and was impressed on how it clings to the BCG. So far i like it better than Slip and can see no reason to go back.
Suwannee Tim
04-03-14, 15:25
I have been using automatic transmission fluid for all my gun lube applications for years. I have seen no reason to upgrade.
TheWaker43
04-03-14, 16:12
I'm surprised about FrogLube. I finally got around to opening a jar I bought last year and it worked better then the Slip2000 products I have been using, at least cleaning my suppressor. I went ahead and cleaned and followed FrogLubes directions on the first application on a couple more guns to see how I like it. Do you guys really not mix it with other products or is that just FL's way of saying to only buy their product?
Non-toxicity (bio-lube) and eased carbon cleaning are the 2 new features that set the newer products apart from older ones. In that category, fireclean and randclp fit the bill.
I use RAND.
Primarily because it's odorless and non-toxic.
It helps that it stays wet...and helps with easier cleaning.
There are so many lubes because we gun owners tend to overthink gun lube and think we are better than the next guy at selecting one for its superior properties as touted in the marketing hype.
Gun owners overthink? Never happened that I'm aware of but if you say so.
Regarding the lube choices, not so sure it's about being better than the next guy so much as it's about wanting a potentially better product should it exist. If there's a market someone will sell in it.
mastiffhound
04-03-14, 19:42
There are so many lubes because we gun owners tend to overthink gun lube and think we are better than the next guy at selecting one for its superior properties as touted in the marketing hype.
Current marketing technique puts large companies at the top, you never know what the hell works or not though. This is why I asked for personal experience and for brands that I may not have heard of that others use. I'd never heard of WeaponShield for example. Living in the country kind of takes me out of the loop. The LGS is very small with very limited shelf space. Most of what's on the poll list is what he keeps on the shelf. I figure by the end of the poll I'll have somewhat of a consensus of what works best. Right now that looks like Slip 2000 and Fire Clean. Even though it's not on the list, WeaponShield has been mentioned enough times for me to take a look.
I think I own every brand named :rolleyes:
This stuff seems to be more of a long-term preservative/protectant, but I've heard of some guys using it as a CLP:
http://boeshield.com/
fireclean for me... before that it was CLP
TexasGunNut
04-03-14, 21:02
I'm a Mobile1 guy.
Interesting to see so many Mobile 1 heads. I could never get that shit to stay put at all. I think I just had some extra 10-30 when I tried it. I stuck it out for a long time because it was better than CLP. But when I tried Froglube, I was blown away.
Thinking of trying Fireclean at some point however.
Straight Shooter
04-04-14, 08:15
TETRA, period.
MikeDawg46L
04-04-14, 09:18
I like FrogLube. Started using it last year so not years and years of experience with it. The application kinda sucks, but I break down all of my guns at once and do them unless its maintenance on the ones that get shot more frequently. I take all of the parts, line them up on the bench, paste them up or squirt them down, then take a heat gun and cycle it hot, let it cool, hot, cool, etc, about 4 or 5 times.
I've heard a ton of complaints via the interwebs about the paste getting gummy, but I've never had that issue. One thing I will do in addition to just wiping stuff down, is that on the last heat cycle I will get it really hot so its very runny, then take my air compressor and blow out all of the excess liquid so it doesn't build up in the nooks and crannies once it cools back down. This method has worked great to also keep from running out of the pin slots and trigger assembly when it heats up during use.
I especially love the fact that I don't have to be careful when I apply it. I smother the crap of an entire weapon, grip, rails, internals, trigger, sights, I mean freaking everything. I figure if there are any little nicks in the anodizing/plating/coating of choice, then it will help prevent any rust or surface corrosion. So far, it hasn't caused my clothes to get nasty from it and I haven't had a weapon slip out of my hands b/c it was so slick. Just heat it up, wipe off/blow off the excess. Simple.
As for actual results, it works as advertised. Haven't had the first problem with it. Its nothing earth-shattering, but it keeps the weapon clean and wet as well as anything else I've used.
The list of weapons I use it on:
Newest Noveske/Vltor/Centurion build
Recently sold BCM/Core15 frankenAR
HK P30 (my daily carry weapon)
SA XD9 and Ruger SR22 (the wife's plinkers)
M&P 15-22 (wife's plinker)
Savage Rascal single shot bolt .22 (oldest daughter's plinker)
There are so many lubes because we gun owners tend to overthink gun lube and think we are better than the next guy at selecting one for its superior properties as touted in the marketing hype.
And unfortunately everyone involved in most every aspect of it is simply not qualified to make the choices and claims they do.
Been using BreakFree for several years. May try the Slip one of these days.
What? No Remoil? :jester:
I used to use Breakfree CLP. However I recently tried Fireclean and see no reason to use anything else.
JoeStrummer
04-04-14, 21:13
I was using Shooter's Choice Synthetic grease or Machine Gunners Lube depending on what I had handy and what firearm I was using.
I was using the grease on a Glk 17 & 19 and noticed I had to reapply it frequently, especially during a high round count pistol course, or after a match. MG lube on my rifles worked out well but seemed no better then any other lubes I have used in the past.
I have been using Froglube on everything for the last couple years and have had no complaints, doesn't run everywhere, clean up seems far easier than previous used lubes, and I basically wipe the weapon down & reapply.
Am going to pick-up some FireClean and see how that works out on a CZ P-09 and one of my rifles.
buckkiller35
04-05-14, 00:57
CLP and Mobil 1 for me.
Same here.
Got my first bottle of Slip 2000 with my first BCM upper, tried it, and never looked back.
Terrible Tim
04-05-14, 08:17
Slip 2000, but more recently tried the FireClean. Both are great and 0 problems with them (also like the Royal Purple synthetic motor oil). Never had a problem with any lube, but I'm just a newbie, so don't listen to me on this stuff, mostly farting words to add to the band width here. I have a "lifetime" of lubes lying around now for all rifles, pistols, wheel guns, etc. when you add up all of the fad stuff from the last few years I've tried. Nice to have so many good choices in the market place now.
I mix my own from gear oil and Rem oil. I can mix it so it's light or heavy depending on the weather and particular hand gun or rifle. kwg
I've been using Fireclean for a while now. I always keep royal purple + ATF fluid on hand though. Both work very well, fireclean makes less of a mess.
I think i like frogclean.
I have used Outers cleaning supplies forever. http://www.outers-guncare.com/products/default.aspx
Talywhacker
04-05-14, 14:30
Milcom 25 synthetic grease. Trust me .
Heavy Metal
04-05-14, 14:54
Kroil is a penetrant, not a lubricant. Way too thin.
I am a big fan for Weaponshield, Fireclean and TW-25B Grease.
Like others, FrogLube has worked for me for the past couple years. It smells good so the wife doesn't mind me cleaning with her in the room or nearby, (... So yes, I do determine the lube based on the wife's preference--her sense of smell, that is) keeps actions super slick and reliable, and way fast to wipe off and reapply without having to scrub like trying to clean corruption out of politicians. When I find it doesn't work I might switch. I've got a tub of Seal 1 that I got out of curiosity and it seems to be pretty much identical so I consider that a 2nd supply.
http://i62.tinypic.com/2rlyfdl.jpg
Hahaha, I agree.
As I have not tried all the lubes listed, I feel that casting a vote would be wrong.
I have a metric crap-ton of CLP (hey, bought it years ago when I didn't know any better and it was dirt cheap) still sitting in my basement, so I am finding it hard to try some of these new types.
Looking forward to trying Fireclean though, given the fanatical reviews I've read.
What? No Remoil? :jester:
I used to use Breakfree CLP. However I recently tried Fireclean and see no reason to use anything else.
+1 came her to post this. I used this amber colored water when i was a kid.
Every time I think of changing lubes or going with the latest and greatest I look at my supply and realize I'm about 3-4 years away from running out and needing more. I may try froglube or fireclean...in 3-4 years.
TacticalMark
04-05-14, 18:17
EWL Slip2000 has been working well for me in several platforms.
MP10,,, same I use on everything else.. JMO
SilverBullet432
04-05-14, 23:01
Slip 2000, but more recently tried the FireClean. Both are great and 0 problems with them (also like the Royal Purple synthetic motor oil). Never had a problem with any lube, but I'm just a newbie, so don't listen to me on this stuff, mostly farting words to add to the band width here. I have a "lifetime" of lubes lying around now for all rifles, pistols, wheel guns, etc. when you add up all of the fad stuff from the last few years I've tried. Nice to have so many good choices in the market place now.
F*** royal purple, burned my cam bearing! :mad: amsoil for my engine..
Hahaha, I agree.
As I have not tried all the lubes listed, I feel that casting a vote would be wrong.
I have a metric crap-ton of CLP (hey, bought it years ago when I didn't know any better and it was dirt cheap) still sitting in my basement, so I am finding it hard to try some of these new types.
Looking forward to trying Fireclean though, given the fanatical reviews I've read.
I used remoil when i bought my .22, jam galore, started using break free, and not a hiccup in thousands of pops!
Terrible Tim
04-05-14, 23:03
I don't run royal purple in my truck, just dino oil. No problem with cam bearings on any of my weapons yet... 0|-
mastiffhound
04-06-14, 01:39
It's looking like Slip 2000 is the leader as of this moment. I went to their site just poking around and noticed they have Slip 2000, Slip 2000 EWL, and Slip 2000 EWL30. Anybody use the EWL30 in lower temps or is it too thick? As I stated, I'm looking for a good all purpose lube and preservative that could also help make cleaning easier. Slip claims EWL30's lube migration is none (could be minimal) and doesn't dry out.
If not EWL30 how is the EWL as far as staying put? How is the EWL at lower temps? Are most of you guys using the EWL, EWL30, or just the regular Slip 2000? I've been looking at Fire Clean but I'd have to order online as it's not carried by anyone in my area. I'm thinking that Slip might be the way to go with the availability and good reviews. I'm still doing research on WeaponShield and a few others but local availability is a real want.
buckkiller35
04-06-14, 01:41
Hearing many good things about Fireclean so I ordered a bottle to try out.
Lawnchair 04
04-06-14, 01:49
It's looking like Slip 2000 is the leader as of this moment. I went to their site just poking around and noticed they have Slip 2000, Slip 2000 EWL, and Slip 2000 EWL30. Anybody use the EWL30 in lower temps or is it too thick? As I stated, I'm looking for a good all purpose lube and preservative that could also help make cleaning easier. Slip claims EWL30's lube migration is none (could be minimal) and doesn't dry out.
If not EWL30 how is the EWL as far as staying put? How is the EWL at lower temps? Are most of you guys using the EWL, EWL30, or just the regular Slip 2000? I've been looking at Fire Clean but I'd have to order online as it's not carried by anyone in my area. I'm thinking that Slip might be the way to go with the availability and good reviews. I'm still doing research on WeaponShield and a few others but local availability is a real want.
I run both ewl and ewl30. Ewl30 is noticeable heavier I wouldn't run it in the winter time. Mainly used on ar15's a couple glock and 1911's
SomeOtherGuy
04-06-14, 08:52
Are most of you guys using the EWL, EWL30, or just the regular Slip 2000? I've been looking at Fire Clean but I'd have to order online as it's not carried by anyone in my area. I'm thinking that Slip might be the way to go with the availability and good reviews. I'm still doing research on WeaponShield and a few others but local availability is a real want.
I've used both regular SLIP2000 and the EWL version for years. I personally cannot tell the difference between EWL and regular other than by reading the bottle. I haven't used the EWL 30. Until recently I couldn't find the EWL 30 anywhere except DSG Arms (mail order).
SLIP2000 is a very good lube, but IMHO Weaponshield is everything it does and better. But, if I could get EWL 30 locally and couldn't get Weaponshield locally, I might just as well use the EWL 30.
On ARs, I really think FC has the best going for it right now. It doesn't make miracles happen, but if you do a real deep cleaning before using it and layer it on, It seems to be the best out there for now.
In the 90's I used a lot of synthetic motor oil, mostly on sub guns and some ARs. I did it for convenience mostly. After a blasting through a ridiculous amount of rounds, I'd do a basic disassemble and toss it into a agitating parts washer. Let it get the bulk, brush out the rest and air dry. On sub guns I would submerge the parts in the oil, work the mechanisms and let drip on wires over the bucket. It sounds like a lot of work, but in reality it was like 5 minutes of hands on labor. On ARs, I'd apply oil with a with paint brushes instead of dunking them, still brushed the bore, chamber/lug area, bolt and extractor. Still only took about 5 minutes hands on total. The guns were not "clean" 100%, but clean enough to run without hiccups.
I still use parts washers and such when needed, but for bulk oil on parts that don't accumulate much carbon (like feed covers), I still use Slip2KEWL, it's cheaper than FC, and I squirt it on.
It's looking like Slip 2000 is the leader as of this moment. I went to their site just poking around and noticed they have Slip 2000, Slip 2000 EWL, and Slip 2000 EWL30. Anybody use the EWL30 in lower temps or is it too thick? As I stated, I'm looking for a good all purpose lube and preservative that could also help make cleaning easier. Slip claims EWL30's lube migration is none (could be minimal) and doesn't dry out.
If not EWL30 how is the EWL as far as staying put? How is the EWL at lower temps? Are most of you guys using the EWL, EWL30, or just the regular Slip 2000? I've been looking at Fire Clean but I'd have to order online as it's not carried by anyone in my area. I'm thinking that Slip might be the way to go with the availability and good reviews. I'm still doing research on WeaponShield and a few others but local availability is a real want.
I have a mason jar of the EWL that I submerge my (cleaned) bolt and carrier in and then let the excess drip off while suspended over the jar. That said, I also have a wide pill bottle full of FireClean that I use to dip the bolt and carrier in and also let them drip off the excess. Currently my 6920 BCG has the FC on it, the rest the EWL. Kind of doing a mini experiment to see how the two compare.
I like them both though, just happen to have the EWL on more guns than the FC.
On ARs, I really think FC has the best going for it right now. It doesn't make miracles happen, but if you do a real deep cleaning before using it and layer it on, It seems to be the best out there for now.
In the 90's I used a lot of synthetic motor oil, mostly on sub guns and some ARs. I did it for convenience mostly. After a blasting through a ridiculous amount of rounds, I'd do a basic disassemble and toss it into a agitating parts washer. Let it get the bulk, brush out the rest and air dry. On sub guns I would submerge the parts in the oil, work the mechanisms and let drip on wires over the bucket. It sounds like a lot of work, but in reality it was like 5 minutes of hands on labor. On ARs, I'd apply oil with a with paint brushes instead of dunking them, still brushed the bore, chamber/lug area, bolt and extractor. Still only took about 5 minutes hands on total. The guns were not "clean" 100%, but clean enough to run without hiccups.
I still use parts washers and such when needed, but for bulk oil on parts that don't accumulate much carbon (like feed covers), I still use Slip2KEWL, it's cheaper than FC, and I squirt it on.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use sometimes, mainly for the BCG and pistol barrels (I do a gross cleaning first, then into the USN). It's a good way to get a part purged of oils; once done in the USN I rinse the parts with REALLY hot water and blow out excess with my compressor, then detail clean. At that point they are ready to be dipped into either the EWL or FireClean.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use sometimes, mainly for the BCG and pistol barrels (I do a gross cleaning first, then into the USN). It's a good way to get a part purged of oils; once done in the USN I rinse the parts with REALLY hot water and blow out excess with my compressor, then detail clean. At that point they are ready to be dipped into either the EWL or FireClean.
I use a regular parts washer before ultrasonics. When I use ultrasonics, I use multiple baths to reduce costs. First I'll use plain water and Dawn dish soap, dirt cheap. Then Dow Carbitol, a little pricey, followed by a purified water bath/rinse. Lastly, I remove the water with a 100% isopropyl alcohol bath. The parts are totally stripped and need to be oiled as soon as the alcohol dries.
Seems to work well and not consume the expensive cleaners. I can reuse the Carbitol and IPA many times.
MadAngler1
04-06-14, 10:42
I use Slip 2000 EWL. I would love to try FireClean though, and I would like to see a randomized control trial of Slip 2000 EWL vs. Fireclean vs. FP-10/CLP (or whatever the military is using these days). Sample size of ten M4 carbines for each cleaning product, put through various courses of fire.
Robb Jensen
04-06-14, 10:47
There's a bunch of good ones for warm/hot weather and only a few that work VERY well in sub-freezing weather. You'll notice the poor cold weather performance in .22s before anything else.
There's a bunch of good ones for warm/hot weather and only a few that work VERY well in sub-freezing weather. You'll notice the poor cold weather performance in .22s before anything else.
Would a good rule of thumb (not all-encompassing) be that the thicker the lube the more likely it is to fail in extreme cold?
Also, how do we define "extreme cold"? Arctic conditions or those commonly encountered in the northern CONUS during, say, January?
Whatever is on the dipstick when I need it...
3 in 1 oil was good enough for screen door hinges. I have trouble believing that any "tools" 99% of us have need anything more advanced.
But for the moment I do slop on Slip 2000. Next year it might be something else. Or not.
I live in FL and voted FireClean, BUT I also use Slip EWL2000 (I also can't tell the difference between 2000 and regular, but I THOUGHT it was supposed to soak into the metal more--maybe it does).
I also still have some WeaponShield lube AND grease that I feel just fine using (sometimes it's whatever gets grabbed first when I'm digging though the Tupperware box of cleaning stuff with one hand while holding the gun I've randomly decided to put lube in in the other hand).
I'm one of those who likes to run guns pretty wet--and only do a real cleaning every 1K rounds.
Another vote for slip2000. I've also had good results with break-free in the past. Both in my experience have have been quality lube. No freezing or subzero experience. Mostly extreme dry desert shooting. No experience with the other lubes.
Someone earlier mentioned Kroil. While it was commented on as being too thin for a lubricant, how does it do as far as loosening up carbon? Of course that litmus test would likely be the bolt tail.
I'm talking about letting the bolt soak in Kroil overnight, not just a few minutes. Would it penetrate that baked-on crud?
Berserkr556
04-06-14, 20:44
I used a big jug of military CLP for years in all of my AKs,ARs, HKs. Then I bought a Bravo Co. upper and received the little bottle of Slip2000EWL. I started using it when my big jug finally ran dry. A friend gave me a tube of TW25B and that was the only grease type lube I used. I recently switched to Weapon Shield CLP and grease and like it so I'll probably stick with it.
COZ ZINZKI
04-06-14, 20:52
Kroil is easily found at "Brownells" and shows up frequently elsewhere,( NATCHEZ)
It does as promised.. creeps under and loosens carbon & fouling. Try some, you will see why it is a big seller.
4 hr. soak is usually enough for any crud.
Nightstalker865
04-06-14, 23:52
Switched to FireClean after getting some samples of it down range last year. Clean up is faster and the small bottle goes a long way. I have been very impressed with it.
I've tried most of the lubes, they all pretty much work from my experience. Slip2000 EWL30 is good stuff. I was using Rand clp and Fireclean until I tried a lube called Archoil. Once I tried the Archoil I have pretty much not used anything else since. The lubrication isn't the liquid, the liquid is the carrier so it continues to lubricate even when it dries up or wipes off (that's what they claim anyway). But it's the best stuff I have found so far IMO.
Spahr0311B
04-07-14, 07:01
I had been using Slip2000 EWL for years, just started using FrogLube CLP paste. Runs really well in my suppressed SBR, seems to blow back less in my face. The carbon sticks to the grease and wipes right off during cleaning. I dont bother warming it up, just apply a coating with my fingers. I figured to suppressor heats it up plenty as soon as I start shooting.
Still using three drops of EWL for my Glocks.
I had been using Slip2000 EWL for years, just started using FrogLube CLP paste. Runs really well in my suppressed SBR, seems to blow back less in my face. The carbon sticks to the grease and wipes right off during cleaning. I dont bother warming it up, just apply a coating with my fingers. I figured to suppressor heats it up plenty as soon as I start shooting.
Still using three drops of EWL for my Glocks.
Me experience exactly. Froglube suspends the fouling and it wipes right away. I too use something differenet for pistol... maybe I'll use those EWL samples on pistol.
funkybassplayer
04-07-14, 12:25
I guess I one of those damned FrogLube fans. Both AR uppers and both 1911's have it on there and the run great. Like said before, the funk and gunk wipes right off and good to go again.
I used the paste on my XD-9 and am using that platform as a kind of torture test for the FL. The pistol already had about 5000 rounds through it and has another 800 with no malfunctions using monarch and Tula steel cased.
For clarification, I'm from behind the Piney Wood curtain of east Texas so I don't really have to worry about the cold weather as much as the blistering heat of the summers and the oppressive humidity that is just about year round.
-BTO-
funkybassplayer
04-07-14, 12:27
I guess I one of those damned FrogLube fans. Both AR uppers and both 1911's have it on there and the run great. Like said before, the funk and gunk wipes right off and good to go again.
I used the paste on my XD-9 and am using that platform as a kind of torture test for the FL. The pistol already had about 5000 rounds through it and has another 800 with no malfunctions using monarch and Tula steel cased.
For clarification, I'm from behind the Piney Wood curtain of east Texas so I don't really have to worry about the cold weather as much as the blistering heat of the summers and the oppressive humidity that is just about year round.
-BTO-
Didn't mean to quote myself. Not sure what happened here. Lol
-BTO-
FireClean here as well, Slip 2000 EWL is a great lubricant as well; but FC seems to stay put a little better.
I did not have good results with Frog Lube in colder weather.
I did not have good results with Frog Lube in colder weather.
I've seen that posted a by more than one person. I didn't pay much attention when FL first came out, but I thought some testing was done in the cold. In any case.. it seems to be a warm weather lube now.
Even though it's not on the list, WeaponShield has been mentioned enough times for me to take a look.
Actually, and I'm not being facetious, WeaponShield is really good stuff.
I've seen that posted a by more than one person. I didn't pay much attention when FL first came out, but I thought some testing was done in the cold. In any case.. it seems to be a warm weather lube now.
I will qualify my statement a bit more in the interest of fairness and to try an avoid any unecessary "internet Chicken Little." Cold weather for me is very relative, I live in Las Vegas; however we do get some pretty nasty winds that will chill things down quite a bit in winter. In my particular case, the ambient temperature was around 40 degrees but with the 25-30 mile an hour wind definitely brought things down quite a bit. I was using FL like I would other lubes - i.e. wet - I didn't wipe off the excess and it congealed and gummed up really bad in the cold; so bad in fact that my BCG would not fully chamber until I removed it and wiped it off entirely. I freely admit that there might have been too much lubricant applied, and it was in fact my error.
SavageBrew84
04-07-14, 15:21
Not to call you out on this, but wind chill has nothing to do with the ambient outside temperature. It's merely a formula that relates how fast an object will lose heat until it reaches that temperature. That being said, if you were shooting in 40* weather, nothing would ever get below that temp regardless of "wind Chill". I find it hard to believe that your BCG wouldn't go into battery unless there was indeed too much lube.
I will qualify my statement a bit more in the interest of fairness and to try an avoid any unecessary "internet Chicken Little." Cold weather for me is very relative, I live in Las Vegas; however we do get some pretty nasty winds that will chill things down quite a bit in winter. In my particular case, the ambient temperature was around 40 degrees but with the 25-30 mile an hour wind definitely brought things down quite a bit. I was using FL like I would other lubes - i.e. wet - I didn't wipe off the excess and it congealed and gummed up really bad in the cold; so bad in fact that my BCG would not fully chamber until I removed it and wiped it off entirely. I freely admit that there might have been too much lubricant applied, and it was in fact my error.
TimeOnTarget
04-07-14, 21:11
I have used Frog Lube in single digit temps in my M1A. No problems at all.
It is interesting how people have so many widely varying experiences.
Used to use FrogLube but switched to SEAL1, just as good and much more affordable! Also using Fireclean. Will never go back to FrogLube.
Strangely last year when I was was in Anchorage there were several Froglube users in my class. Non of them reported any issues when they applied a light coat of Froglube as directed on their parts.
FireClean here as well, Slip 2000 EWL is a great lubricant as well; but FC seems to stay put a little better.
I did not have good results with Frog Lube in colder weather.
Strangely last year when I was was in Anchorage there were several Froglube users in my class. Non of them reported any issues when they applied a light coat of Froglube as directed on their parts.
I've ran FL in my DD V1 since it was new. I read how some folks have "issues" with it when it's cold. I decided to test out what gobs of the paste would do in single digits. Day started at 0530. Ended at 2100. Morning temps were 7 degrees F. Afternoon was mid twenties then back down to 18 by the time we called it a day.
The only person that had any issues with my rifle was someone who would 2 years later nearly shoot his hand off with a KSG.... (Just for a little insight on the intelligence level of this guy.) the rifle sat out for 2 hours before we started shooting. Several times it was allowed to cool down after running a few magazines through it. Not a single issue whatsoever.
I find it hard to believe that your BCG wouldn't go into battery unless there was indeed too much lube.
Maybe he didn't take it out of the bottle. ;)
Would a good rule of thumb (not all-encompassing) be that the thicker the lube the more likely it is to fail in extreme cold?
Not necessarily, there's more to it than that. Some light greases will work down to -50F and colder and some thin oils will stop a bolt from moving.
Also, how do we define "extreme cold"? Arctic conditions or those commonly encountered in the northern CONUS during, say, January?
I'd say what the northern states can see, 0F and below.
I've seen that posted a by more than one person. I didn't pay much attention when FL first came out, but I thought some testing was done in the cold. In any case.. it seems to be a warm weather lube now.
I've seen it slow guns down up here in the winter and attributed it to one of several factors to stop a few AR's. Enough so that I won't consider it useful, especially with all the other stuff out there that does work with our weather.
TimeOnTarget
04-08-14, 09:04
Used to use FrogLube but switched to SEAL1, just as good and much more affordable! Also using Fireclean. Will never go back to FrogLube.
I bought some Seal1 also, but I have yet to try it out. I have a new G19 that I think I will treat with the Seal1 and try to determine any differences.
I picked Kroil since you didn't list JT6 Mystic as an option...Or Mobile-1.
I do use Kroil, but not as a lube.
Fireclean user here. Before that I used Tetra gun oil. I really enjoy having an odorless gun lube, makes cleaning a lot more tolerable.
Strangely last year when I was was in Anchorage there were several Froglube users in my class. Non of them reported any issues when they applied a light coat of Froglube as directed on their parts.
I freely admit that I had more FL applied than directed (I did not wipe off the excess after the heat application) so it could very well have been my fault; I suppose I am used to applying lubricants pretty wet with little to no removal.
I did really like how the FL would congeal and stay in place when it cooled, but even then it does become somewhat "sludgy" after some serious range time - I only clean every 1K rounds or so.
Talywhacker
04-08-14, 20:50
I haven't seen anybody that uses milcom tw25.. ? It's a white synthetic grease. My brother turned me on to it. His teammates all use this and swear by it. I applied a good bit to my bcg and it didn't gum or dry up after 420rds. This was in a 2hr. period with a several mag dumps. Sig also uses it exclusively. Try some.e
Blankwaffe
04-08-14, 21:27
I haven't seen anybody that uses milcom tw25.. ? It's a white synthetic grease. My brother turned me on to it. His teammates all use this and swear by it. I applied a good bit to my bcg and it didn't gum or dry up after 420rds. This was in a 2hr. period with a several mag dumps. Sig also uses it exclusively. Try some.e
Mil-comm TW25B and MC2500 is my preferred pistol lubes, especially aluminum frame pistols.Ive used it for that application since 2001 with outstanding results.
So yeah I agree,Mil-comm is also another outstanding firearms specific lube.
Im a bit lazy when it comes to the AR's though,so I prefer a good,more affordable, CLP to just hose them down with,wipe off the chunks and call it good.
I just started to dig into my stash of Slip EWL and EWG, I like it so far
Lawnchair 04
04-08-14, 21:43
ive used tw-25b in my ar's as well with success. I got my hands on some at work for free :). we use them on our GAU-21's they run like clocks we lubed right.
I like Eezox; so did the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) when they did lube tests several years ago. If the directions are followed, it works to well below 0*F and it stays put. I would call it a "semi-liquid". It is more like a wax coating if it is applied properly. I have been told it also has a loyal following in desert environments.
Eezox is one of the best if not the best protective coating for preventing corrosion from sweat, condensation and rain available. I have been using it for almost twenty years and I have not found anything that even comes close.
Yes, it has a solvent that some may find offensive, but exposure in real world use is insignificant in gun apps if normal industrial practice is followed ie wearing nitrile gloves and washing hands after exposure.
With respect to chemical exposure during the use of various gun cleaning or lube products, unless you are doing such things daily, I think concern is misplaced. Unless you are in an occupation that requires daily exposure there is more risk getting hit by a bus while texting.
ROUTEMICHIGAN
04-09-14, 02:19
Been using Froglube for several years now on several of my ARs-- shot in triple digit heat as well as single digit cold w/snow. No issues in the cold-- perhaps a little waxy crud initially, but soon turned to liquid after the first 10 rounds or so-- and nothing that inhibited the BCG from moving freely. Use Slip 2K on my pistols and never switched them over to the FL for some reason. I may try Fireclean after my FL runs out-- but FL has been great on my guns and I've no reason to switch. One question: is Slip 2K non-toxic as well? Thought I read that somewhere.
Don't over think lube, in a pinch I have taken oil off my dip stick to keep things running.
Shoulderthinggoesup
04-09-14, 10:02
I really like the Prolix I have. Non-toxic and forms a nice drylube film. It is what all my guns get after good strip down cleanings. I just use whatever (usually clp) for in the field quick lube ups.
One question: is Slip 2K non-toxic as well? Thought I read that somewhere.
Yes it is.
Fireclean on the inside for lubrication, Eezox on the outside for rust prevention.
Eurodriver
04-09-14, 12:15
http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/500x/48338861.jpg
wildcard600
04-09-14, 15:47
http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/500x/48338861.jpg
check post #16.
the number of times this meme appears in this thread is too damn high. :D
There are 40 people pretending to like Frog Lube in addition to the 4 of us here who are the only people who don't hate it! :sarcastic:
Kroil is a penetrant not a lube.
I don't think you can go wrong with Fireclean or Rand CLP, I like and use/have used both.
Slip 2K EWL for me.
Would love to try Fireclean though.
Poor IG.... must be having a heart attack at this newest of lube threads.... :laugh:
MikeDawg46L
04-09-14, 19:18
Slip 2K EWL for me.
Would love to try Fireclean though.
Poor IG.... must be having a heart attack at this newest of lube threads.... :laugh:
Hahahahahahaha. It's funny because it's true.
Thread locked in 3...2...
Sent from my awesome iPhone using Tapatalk
This is America. We don't lock threads about lube.
The poll is kind of interesting... Interesting to see the current trends.
medicman29
04-11-14, 20:13
I've been using slip 2000 for several years now, but I'm thinking about giving fireclean a try. I use slip 2000 on all of my firearms, not just my AR's and FAL's.
I've been running FL for a little over a year now and I've been happy. Cleans easily and lubes pretty well. I haven't seen any protective issues either. I have had my concerns as to how it would perform in the cold north winter, as it gets sort of tacky and gummy in colder temps. I have yet to have any failure while running FL in a BCM middy. However, I have noticed that the first round fired on a cold gun in sub 20 degree F temps will eject the brass @ 2:30-3 o'clock and once warm the brass piles at 3:30-4 consistently. Is the cold, thick FL slowing the BCG? I think it is a possibility, but not enough to cause a failure.
Singlestack Wonder
04-12-14, 09:58
After 19 years of constant use, I still recommend Kellube.
Used Break Free CLP for years with no problems. Use Slip 2000 now with no problems. Slip seems to stay on longer.
bulldawg64
04-12-14, 14:10
25124
This concerns me about using Froglube. Noticed a "gel" around the top of sprayer bottle and the pic is what I found when I took sprayer out. In the house, so temp is not an issue.
mastiffhound
04-12-14, 16:10
25124
This concerns me about using Froglube. Noticed a "gel" around the top of sprayer bottle and the pic is what I found when I took sprayer out. In the house, so temp is not an issue.
That is at room temp of what, 60 to 70 degrees? If it is I'm ruling it out, the only thing I seen do that is Loctite and hair gel. It's very strange to see a lube do that. Thank you for the pic, I've heard and read that FL gets gunky and gels with age. I've never seen it though. This thread is very informative, first hand reports are always helpful and an actual pics are great. My guess is anyone looking for info on lubes (like myself) will find this very helpful.
25124
This concerns me about using Froglube. Noticed a "gel" around the top of sprayer bottle and the pic is what I found when I took sprayer out. In the house, so temp is not an issue.
Looks like a new life form...
bulldawg64
04-12-14, 22:50
It is usually 71-72 degrees in here. I was VERY surprised to see this in a 6 month old bottle. Mostly have moved on from it as you can see in the tray behind it.
MikeDawg46L
04-13-14, 20:46
25124
This concerns me about using Froglube. Noticed a "gel" around the top of sprayer bottle and the pic is what I found when I took sprayer out. In the house, so temp is not an issue.
I'm not sure how that would have happened. I left all of my Froglube in the garage over the winter as that is where I load and service all of my weapons. I'm in NC and while we typically have fairly mild winters, this past one was really cold. My FL was good to go and I'm still using the same paste and liquid that I left out there in the cold. Never had the liquid gum up like that and the paste liquified with a little heat as it was supposed to.
Sent from my awesome iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you tried warming it up? Is it still slippery?
Tried all...FireClean is a beast
mastiffhound
04-13-14, 22:30
I'm not sure how that would have happened. I left all of my Froglube in the garage over the winter as that is where I load and service all of my weapons. I'm in NC and while we typically have fairly mild winters, this past one was really cold. My FL was good to go and I'm still using the same paste and liquid that I left out there in the cold. Never had the liquid gum up like that and the paste liquified with a little heat as it was supposed to.
After some thought, I wonder if this is a QC issue? Perhaps the "mix" being off? It would explain why some have this problem and some don't. Not knowing if you'll get a good batch or a bad one that gums up is not comforting . Right now Slip, Weapon Shield, and Fire Clean are looking like the best options. I wish I could change the Iosso to Weapon Shield to get a better idea of actual users.
I've been using CLP for a long time, recently started using the MPRO-7 and the hoppes elite and it's been working great. The hoppes elite seems to stock better and making cleanup a quick ordeal.
On some really, really stubborn carbon I've used PB blaster...but it smells like hell.
ColtSeavers
04-14-14, 11:56
Otis 085 ultra bore is what I use.
bulldawg64
04-15-14, 03:29
After some thought, I wonder if this is a QC issue? Perhaps the "mix" being off? It would explain why some have this problem and some don't. Not knowing if you'll get a good batch or a bad one that gums up is not comforting . Right now Slip, Weapon Shield, and Fire Clean are looking like the best options. I wish I could change the Iosso to Weapon Shield to get a better idea of actual users.
This is what I am thinking also. Have used FL for a while and have friends who do also. No other bottle has done this. I will try to heat it and see if it blends with the rest in the bottle. I have been using/comparing Slip EWL, FC, and FL on three different pistols as a home style QC test. Most likely the FrogLube will drop out as this bottle empties. I have not had any issues on the FNP 45 that is treated with FL. But the image of that "goop" is is making me wonder.
From what I've seen, fireclean is the new top stuff out there. I use motor oil (synthetic blends) as it keeps carbon in suspension, lubes, and basically free since I have it laying around - extra from oil changes. What more could you really ask for? To be honest, I think people over-think lube for guns.
I'm not yet sure how many rounds I shot this weekend, but it was my first time using FireClean and I was kinda surprised to look into the chamber and still see lube in there. With Slip and Militec it usually looks dry after not too many mags.
None of the above! I do use Break Free CLP as a cleaner....but for lube, it's either good old LSA, or Castrol Syntec 50 wt.
A lot of different lubes work very well. There are many good products to pick from.
Our guns will run wet and clean, or wet and dirty, or even dry and clean for a while, but dry and dirty is where we run into trouble.
If you do nothing else to keep a gun running, do keep some oil in the right places and out of the wrong places.
bulldawg64
04-16-14, 02:43
Finally got around to warming it up today. It turned into a liquid almost immediately. Even the darker part that had "congealed" inside the neck of the bottle loosened up and ran to the bottom. In the end, I don't know the reason for this, but it also doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
I assume you're talkning about Froglube. And that's the reason it works good for us in the warm climate. When your gun cools the stuff sets up a little instead of running off slowly in your safe.
I bought Slip 2000 because the store didn't have Froglube in stock at the time. I'm probably going to try Froglube eventually, but my original bottle of Slip has lasted me a year and a half with no problems. But like Markm said, I like that Froglube kind of solidifies when sitting in your safe.
556BlackRifle
04-16-14, 11:03
It's not on your list but I like FP-10. I've been using it for years and prefer it over other brands I've tried.
I assume you're talkning about Froglube. And that's the reason it works good for us in the warm climate. When your gun cools the stuff sets up a little instead of running off slowly in your safe.
This is why its my lube of choice right now and my, what a nice change in odor!
With my carbine exuding it's Ben-Gay smell from the Froglube, the badguys will think they broke into an old guy's house. They'll expect to run into a 38 revolver!
Yote Sniper
04-20-14, 08:04
CLP, Rem Oil and synthetic lithium grease.... the 20mm guns i maintain/overhaul at work that fire 4,000-6,000 SPM run on the stuff so i think its good enough for my AR.
I use SLIP and M-Pro 7. I've noticed zero difference in anything between the two and M-Pro is easier to find, so I gave it a vote. Love both though, and SLIP is of course the sexier pick lol.
Eurodriver
04-20-14, 21:31
CLP, Rem Oil and synthetic lithium grease.... the 20mm guns i maintain/overhaul at work that fire 4,000-6,000 SPM run on the stuff so i think its good enough for my AR.
That's like saying Mobil 1 is what your lawnmower needs becase your Mercedes requires it.
I would hope that as one who works on 20mms, you'd be able to understand that different platforms have different requirements.
Another one for froglube. Would vote again for it if I could for my buddy, he does not visit these forums and he uses it as well. Ah, minty freshness while I shoot some targets!
Been using Weaponshield for years now. Love it, see no reason to change.
That's like saying Mobil 1 is what your lawnmower needs becase your Mercedes requires it.
I would hope that as one who works on 20mms, you'd be able to understand that different platforms have different requirements.
My thoughts exactly. Rem Oil is a very poor choice for the Ar platform altogether, it evaporates almost faster than it can be applied.
Its a wash for me between Slip 2000 and Fireclean.. I've used them both quite a bit and I really like them both.. Fireclean is what I've switched to over the past few months though and it seems to be working great so far. However I wouldnt hesitate to use either. I have some experience with froglube however minimal it also seemed to work quite well and it smells good too..
Yote Sniper
04-21-14, 02:52
i absolutely understand the differences and requirements. application of libricant is certainly different. the 20mm uses a recoil activated lubricator and other lubricants are applied by hand during inspection and assembly. i use the above sparingly where they need to be applied and have zero problems. at my other assignments ive also worked m4's, 240's, GAU-2's and M2's for spec ops airframes.. the military loves CLP..lol
and now that you mention it. i had left over royal purple that went into my John Deere riding lawn mower to get it ready for this season... :happy:
That's like saying Mobil 1 is what your lawnmower needs becase your Mercedes requires it.
I would hope that as one who works on 20mms, you'd be able to understand that different platforms have different requirements.
I voted SLIP, because that is what I use, but there are several products available that work well. Maybe more important to how, where, and how much to lube?
I LOVE Militec-1. Keeps everything well lubed and wet, without being wet. lol, you know what I mean.
I use Otis O85 Ultra Bore Solvent both as a cleaner and lubrcant. I do have some Breakfree CLP as well that use if I don't have any Otis cleaner.
lifewithoutparole
04-22-14, 20:14
I have used LSA on my 1903A3 (since the mid 70's when I bought it) and on my Colt 6920. Before I owned the Colt I had a Century Arms Golani and it loved the LSA too. I use it on all my pistols as well. I use CLP or Hoppes for bore cleaning. All of them run fine.
FIREClean for me works wonders as far as carbon...however I use TW25 on slides or heavy wear areas
mastiffhound
04-25-14, 20:25
It looks like Slip is the #1 choice and Fire Clean is #2, I wonder if this would be the outcome next year or even two years from now. When I checked the poll results this is what is current out of over 400 votes.
I've also been checking out Weapon Shield. How is cleanup when using it? If I would have included it I think it would have garnered a decent amount of votes.
To those that have used it and Slip, are they close in quality?
I've ruled Froglube out because of inconsistencies. Gumming up, over thickening in cold, or gelling for no apparent reason at room temp shows that some get good batches and some don't. On this subject, I received an email from a youtube channel about something called Alpha CLP. It looks very similar to Froglube, they even have a target that comes in their kit with a Frog in the bullseye. I know little to nothing about them except they use a vegetable base oil just like Froglube. It also claims it won't gum up. I will wait for others to try it out, it's too new and I'm no beta tester. Here's a link if you're the brave type and want to take a look: http://alphaclp.com/
Where do you guys get your Slip, Fireclean, and WeaponShield online? I'm thinking of getting some smaller sample sizes and trying them out. Then I'm going to buy in bulk because a resupply is tuff in the boonies. Who has the best prices for these three? As always, thanks for the help guys!
It looks like Slip is the #1 choice and Fire Clean is #2, I wonder if this would be the outcome next year or even two years from now. When I checked the poll results this is what is current out of over 400 votes.
I've also been checking out Weapon Shield. How is cleanup when using it? If I would have included it I think it would have garnered a decent amount of votes.
To those that have used it and Slip, are they close in quality?
I've ruled Froglube out because of inconsistencies. Gumming up, over thickening in cold, or gelling for no apparent reason at room temp shows that some get good batches and some don't. On this subject, I received an email from a youtube channel about something called Alpha CLP. It looks very similar to Froglube, they even have a target that comes in their kit with a Frog in the bullseye. I know little to nothing about them except they use a vegetable base oil just like Froglube. It also claims it won't gum up. I will wait for others to try it out, it's too new and I'm no beta tester. Here's a link if you're the brave type and want to take a look: http://alphaclp.com/
Where do you guys get your Slip, Fireclean, and WeaponShield online? I'm thinking of getting some smaller sample sizes and trying them out. Then I'm going to buy in bulk because a resupply is tuff in the boonies. Who has the best prices for these three? As always, thanks for the help guys!
I get Fireclean through Amazon.com. It's actually sold by Fireclean, but through Amazon, so the prices are the same either way. But I get free shipping on Amazon...
... they use a vegetable base oil just like Froglube. ...
I don't get this stuff. Is 'vegetable based' a selling point? It seems like companies are touting it as one and I don't understand why vegetable based oils would be better than oils originated from any other source.
I don't get this stuff. Is 'vegetable based' a selling point? It seems like companies are touting it as one and I don't understand why vegetable based oils would be better than oils originated from any other source.
I believe it's because they are being touted as safe. Fireclean has been working flawless for me.
mastiffhound
04-26-14, 01:58
I don't get this stuff. Is 'vegetable based' a selling point? It seems like companies are touting it as one and I don't understand why vegetable based oils would be better than oils originated from any other source.
Tons of new shooters are the white collar, vegan, chest shaving types that want everything to smell like roses and have the ability to be used as a hand lotion. Hey, at least their trying guns. That's my guess from what I've seen at the range. Nothing like watching a guy act like a firearm is going to bite him right after he muzzle sweeps you 5 times. Did I mention I now avoid the range? I'm glad I live in the boonies and can shoot when I want.
A market did exist before firearms for "people safe" lubes. Kitchen appliances to medical equipment are most common, the latter that I'm familiar with. Before I became a mechanic I fixed medical equipment and we used Lubriplate grease that was made from vegetables. We were told you could eat the stuff, I never tried it though. It was explained to me to be safe for medical equipment as people with lung problems didn't do well with petrol products. Adding petrol to a high oxygen content of 93% to 97% with even a small spark is a bad idea I guess. You always knew what happened when a "cooked" machine came in. Some hard headed smoker thought that they knew better and lit up with an oxygen tube in their nose.
I get why people would want something like this for their health. I've breathed exhaust fumes, chemicals turned to steam (machining metals on lathes, high speed drills, and milling machines), and second hand smoke. I've have had my share of used motor oil, gear lube, tranny fluid, and God knows what else on my hands to worry. A little gun lube transfer onto my face, hands, or body probably won't matter much at this point.
I don't know or care if Slip, Fire Clean, or Weapon Shield are edible or "people safe". I'm looking for what works.
richiecotite
04-26-14, 06:48
I don't get this stuff. Is 'vegetable based' a selling point? It seems like companies are touting it as one and I don't understand why vegetable based oils would be better than oils originated from any other source.
Personally, my work room is pretty small, with no ventilation or windows. Old petroleum based products in a small room means lightheadedness. And if your not wearing gloves, those chemicals are hard to get off your skin. Veg based cleaners I can use them around my kids.
MikeDawg46L
04-26-14, 10:09
I don't know or care if Slip, Fire Clean, or Weapon Shield are edible or "people safe". I'm looking for what works.
The thing is, this stuff DOES work.
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Personally, my work room is pretty small, with no ventilation or windows. Old petroleum based products in a small room means lightheadedness. And if your not wearing gloves, those chemicals are hard to get off your skin. Veg based cleaners I can use them around my kids.
Yea, but that's because it's non-toxic, not because of what it's from. There is a trend of using "plant based", "vegetable based", and "all natural" to insinuate something is safe and it drives me nuts. Seeing a gun-related company take part just makes it worse. Welp... [/rant]
I bought into the Froglube hype when it was first released and bought some, after running it for about a year and a half some observations I have noticed with regard to usage.
First I do not like to use it on internals, like FCGs safety selector areas etc, with my handguns I do not put it near the sear mech and areas like that. I have ran it in sub zero weather and temperatures in the high 90's. I do not like to use it near internal parts specifically because of the gum or gelling that I have noticed. For those internal parts I have had great results with Mpro LPX gun oil and CLP. Frog Lube specifically says to remove all other solutions before you apply the FL so to get around that I do not run the FL in areas that I use the petroleum based products like MPRO. Where I use the FL and have had great results is on the surface of my rifles handguns and shotguns, it is very good at protecting the surface from moisture and crap and being honest it keeps that nice dark black look, and I it is probably keeping the finish protected also. So with FL thats as much as I use it. I do not trust it on parts that if gummed could cause a problem. I know Mpro does not have many votes but as for lubrication I think it does a fairly nice job, it will last a while for one thing. I have not shot my 45 in about 6 months due to ammo shortages and recently I got ahold of a bunch so after taking my 45 out of the gun safe, bed stand :) 6 months later the handgun was still properly lubed, no gumming or dryness. If you are somewhere and see a bottle of the Mpro I would not hesitate to give it a try or a nod. My only concern with the Mpro is I have a bottle from a couple years ago and recently was at my LGS and saw a couple bottles and figured I would grab one, after opening the Mpro LPX it seemed as though the product has changed in appearance and consistency. The old bottle had a green tint to it and was a bit thicker the new LPX I bought was more the color of motor oil, which it prob is just great ol fashion motor oil.
I just came across a deal on fire clean and decided to grab a bottle I will update my finding after usage.
Tons of new shooters are the white collar, vegan, chest shaving types that want everything to smell like roses and have the ability to be used as a hand lotion. Hey, at least their trying guns. That's my guess from what I've seen at the range. Nothing like watching a guy act like a firearm is going to bite him right after he muzzle sweeps you 5 times. Did I mention I now avoid the range? I'm glad I live in the boonies and can shoot when I want.
Or maybe guys who are around solvents, heavy metal fumes, lead fume, etc. all day figure they've had enough toxins and carcinogens and if they have the opportunity, they can opt not to add a little bit more. I don't understand why the health aspect of non toxic products seems so offensive to people. My wife's pregnant and I've walled her off from my room of volatile chemicals. I've had a life of working and being soaked in literal toxins. Maybe I just don't want to bring that crap home anymore.
I just picked up some Fireclean to test. As far as the FL goes I refuse to use it any more for 2 reasons. I have had some issues on cold weather (yes I followed the directions to the letter) and IMO the owner is a complete douchepickle.
I will not give my money to someone who IMO is nothing more then money hungry and will screw over his own people to make a buck. I would rather give my money to someone who has some integrity.
MikeDawg46L
04-27-14, 20:13
I just picked up some Fireclean to test. As far as the FL goes I refuse to use it any more for 2 reasons. I have had some issues on cold weather (yes I followed the directions to the letter) and IMO the owner is a complete douchepickle.
I will not give my money to someone who IMO is nothing more then money hungry and will screw over his own people to make a buck. I would rather give my money to someone who has some integrity.
Supporting argument please?
I'm asking genuinely bc I do not know.
Sent from my awesome iPhone using Tapatalk
I was a distributor and have first hand experience along with several other distributors. IMO when you say one thing and then do the exact opposite just to make a buck it's disgusting. IMO When you step on the people who made you and your product what it is in the market just to get ahead, it's just sad!
mastiffhound
04-27-14, 21:14
Or maybe guys who are around solvents, heavy metal fumes, lead fume, etc. all day figure they've had enough toxins and carcinogens and if they have the opportunity, they can opt not to add a little bit more. I don't understand why the health aspect of non toxic products seems so offensive to people. My wife's pregnant and I've walled her off from my room of volatile chemicals. I've had a life of working and being soaked in literal toxins. Maybe I just don't want to bring that crap home anymore.
The fact that you worry about your wife's health makes me think you aren't the type to go muzzle sweeping folks. The anti-GMO, glutens are making me fat not the 8 Big Macs I eat every day, hybrid drivers are a new segment for the shooting industry to sell to. Sure, it's nice as an option for the rest of us. I doubt the tiny amount of toxins released from shooting, cleaning, and handling firearms will make much of a difference for those of us that wash their hands and shower daily.
I remember a few years ago the big "lead poisoning from particulates" shooting scare. I don't see Jerry Miculek shaking or having brain issues and that guy has probably breathed more lead and lube particulates than anyone alive. Me, non-toxic, toxic, edible, or inedible are a non-issue. If you have children or loved ones then maybe you should try something less toxic. From what most have experienced on here the non-toxic stuff seems hit or miss though. Synthetics are looking like the best way to go, and that is what this thread is about.
I took a carbine class 2 weeks ago. I used a brand new upper lubed with SLIP 2000. I put just over 500 rounds with no issues.
G34Shooter
04-28-14, 00:06
I've been using Weaponshield's products for years and still love their product compared to all the newest and most advertised. Fireclean seems to make many of the same claims as Weaponshield CLP yet is more expensive so I have no desire to change.
DIRTMAN556
04-28-14, 00:32
I don't get this stuff. Is 'vegetable based' a selling point? It seems like companies are touting it as one and I don't understand why vegetable based oils would be better than oils originated from any other source.
Some of us have little kids or pregnant wives. Or wives who prefer the smell of minty FL as opposed to a different CLP.
BuzzinSATX
04-28-14, 08:32
Sorry if this was already posted...looked but didn't find it.
http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/bea2f774fe866c00597b76c9db0e2339-1048.html
G34Shooter
04-28-14, 08:58
Some of us have little kids or pregnant wives. Or wives who prefer the smell of minty FL as opposed to a different CLP.
Just an FYI, Weaponshield and some others are also non-toxic. WS also has a cinnamon smell to it.
I use Superoil 450 because it comes in pomegranate lychee scent and $1 / bottle goes to save the Algae foundation. :p
In all seriousness I use Frog Lube because I like how the paste stays put. And I think its important to note that just because the lube itself is non-toxic doesnt meant that it isn't saturated with lead and other chemicals when you are cleaning your weapon.
I was a distributor and have first hand experience along with several other distributors. IMO when you say one thing and then do the exact opposite just to make a buck it's disgusting. IMO When you step on the people who made you and your product what it is in the market just to get ahead, it's just sad!
Can you give specific examples?
MikeDawg46L
04-28-14, 10:16
Can you give specific examples?
Was going to ask the same question but didn't want to "go there".
Sent from my awesome iPhone using Tapatalk
Tried SLIP ELW this weekend on pistols. Not much better than any other lube I've tried. Pretty much not there (on the barrel outside surface) after 50 rounds.
DIRTMAN556
04-28-14, 23:23
Just an FYI, Weaponshield and some others are also non-toxic. WS also has a cinnamon smell to it.
Good to know. Cinnamon might smell better than minty/ben gay smell.
I use Superoil 450 because it comes in pomegranate lychee scent and $1 / bottle goes to save the Algae foundation. :p
In all seriousness I use Frog Lube because I like how the paste stays put. And I think its important to note that just because the lube itself is non-toxic doesnt meant that it isn't saturated with lead and other chemicals when you are cleaning your weapon.
Absolutely. I've considered this before. FrogLube may be food grade and all but I'm not going to be using it to cook my eggs after I dipped my finger full of carbon in there. The advantage I do see is that I can clean my gun without the lingering breakfree chemical smell. Just to give an example.
Can you give specific examples?
I brought it up about a year ago and was laughed at on this forum. Oh, well.
Scott Lee
Trillium Solutions
That's a start. Start pulling at threads...and the Froglube story becomes very...interesting. I made phone-calls. I spoke with the names involved in it all (Lee, Lasky, etc.). It was enlightening. Since then, a LOT of the ties have been scrubbed from LinkedIn profiles, etc. but back when it first hit the market, the paint was all over the wall to those who cared to look.
Regarding smell, FIREClean has virtually none.
Howdy,
Good ol' Remoil.
Lately I've been using Royal Purple gun oil.
Paul
G34Shooter
04-29-14, 14:41
Remoil is extremely thin and runny plus it dries up pretty easily.
No experience with Fireclean but that stuff is double the price of Weaponshield that already does what FC claims.
The most important thing in lubricating a gun is to use oil. Use what ever oil turns you on. Oil pretty much works be keeping the parts separated thus lowering friction. I can't count how many people I have seem with gun problems were dry[ They were told oil will attract dirt] and adding oil made the gun operate as it is supposed to.
I'm about to run out of fireclean and have decided to give the full slip 2000 system a shot. After all I'm a sucker for systems. How does the carbon killer and degreaser work? I typically use mpro7 degreaser.
Remoil is extremely thin and runny plus it dries up pretty easily.
No experience with Fireclean but that stuff is double the price of Weaponshield that already does what FC claims.
I've used both, and FIREClean is not at all the same as Weaponshield in the performance category. They do not do anything similar, in my experience.
As they say in New Mexico....
"Booyah"
I remember some of this. There were some great guys out there trying to help spread the product who believed in what was "supposed to be" going on. CHIMO being one of them.
Nothing stings more than finding out you busted your ass for something you believed in, only to find it was a money making scheme for some prick. Been there, won't make that mistake again. Getting screwed over by some VSO of whatever variety is bad enough, but that's what people in the business world do. Getting absolutely raw dogged by someone who would betray their own kind to line their wallets...
That's as low as you can get.
SomeOtherGuy
04-30-14, 07:32
I'm about to run out of fireclean and have decided to give the full slip 2000 system a shot. After all I'm a sucker for systems. How does the carbon killer and degreaser work? I typically use mpro7 degreaser.
If Fireclean is half as good as people here claim, I think you'll be disappointed with SLIP2000. My main gripe with it is that it disappears quickly - not sure if it's evaporating or running off into dark holes (buffer tubes, etc.) but I've found it doesn't last very long. To me, Froglube was much better, except in cold weather. Then I tried Weaponshield and it's basically an ordinary oil, except it's really, really slick, doesn't seem to evaporate or run off, and picks up carbon about as well as other products I've tried. It doesn't fetch the paper, cook breakfast and do your laundry like some miracle products apparently do, but it's a good gun oil.
If Fireclean is half as good as people here claim, I think you'll be disappointed with SLIP2000. My main gripe with it is that it disappears quickly - not sure if it's evaporating or running off into dark holes (buffer tubes, etc.)
I agree. I tried the Slip EWL and it was pretty useless on pistol last Saturday. Got me though a 50 round session of .45acp, but it was about gone by then. Slips carbon cutter is completely useless. Wasted good money on that crap twice.
The OP's list is rather old-school. A bunch of boutique, useless stuff, meant to separate label seekers from their money..
Not much is better than a quality, full synthetic motor oil, simply because it is made to break-down build-up and crud. So, carbon build-up comes right off. 1 quart of Red Line or Royal Purple will last a life time of shooting, for $8-$10.
FYI, Mobil1 is NOT a full synthetic oil, it is dino-based.
Royal Purple is amazing. It does end-up all over the place, but it doesn't burn off, and it lubes like a mofo. Clean up is a breeze.
FYI, Mobil1 is NOT a full synthetic oil, it is dino-based.
.
That is false.
Don't know where you get your info from, but Mobil1 is and has been Group4 PAO based. Mobil1 is the only mass market oil that is Group4 PAO base.
That is false.
Don't know where you get your info from, but Mobil1 is and has been Group4 PAO based. Mobil1 is the only mass market oil that is Group4 PAO base.
Someone else in the General Discussion forum who works for a competitor of Mobile 1 also made this claim. (that it's just a Dino oil with a bunch of additives) ???
Someone else in the General Discussion forum who works for a competitor of Mobile 1 also made this claim. (that it's just a Dino oil with a bunch of additives) ???
If it is the guy I talked, he had the lawsuit all mixed, didn't know who sued who, and who won. None of his info was correct.
wildcard600
05-01-14, 13:13
any oil of similar viscosity will work just as good. people get way to wrapped up in the "synthetic" hype.
IIRC it was BP/castrol that won the lawsuit that basically means now that highly refined group 3 dino oil can be called "synthetic".
carry on.
any oil of similar viscosity will work just as good. people get way to wrapped up in the "synthetic" hype..
Really? The same can be said for a lot of thinks, including guns.
IIRC it was BP/castrol that won the lawsuit that basically means now that highly refined group 3 dino oil can be called "synthetic".
carry on.
Correct.
wildcard600
05-01-14, 14:02
Really? The same can be said for a lot of thinks, including guns.
.
very true. seems to me more prevelant among the mall ninjaesque crowd who needs high speed whiz bang cutting edge gear though.
very true. seems to me more prevelant among the mall ninjaesque crowd who needs high speed whiz bang cutting edge gear though.
That's a different website. Not too much of that stuff here.
Good synthetic is better than conventional. It dissolves more stuff and breaks down slower. However I clean my guns to often to capitalize on this benefit. Same goes for my cars. I'd rather use blend and change every 3k. It's cheaper and the performance difference isn't enough to notice IMO- I don't race.
The OP's list is rather old-school. A bunch of boutique, useless stuff, meant to separate label seekers from their money..
Not much is better than a quality, full synthetic motor oil, simply because it is made to break-down build-up and crud. So, carbon build-up comes right off. 1 quart of Red Line or Royal Purple will last a life time of shooting, for $8-$10.
FYI, Mobil1 is NOT a full synthetic oil, it is dino-based.
Royal Purple is amazing. It does end-up all over the place, but it doesn't burn off, and it lubes like a mofo. Clean up is a breeze.
I LOL'ed.
Seriously though, Royal Purple is the only product I've used that sucked. I used 75-140 in my Diff on a 2001 WS.6, and less than 10K miles later, the pristine functioning diff spun the pinion bearing, and it was plainly evident by the colors it had turned that the bearings had seen some serious heat. It had previously looked great when we pulled the cover off to initially do the fluid change. I don't know what else to blame aside the lube. When we tore it down, yes, lube was in there. It was not underfilled and had not leaked out.
Technically, I think Redline has the highest concentration of PAO. Castrol 0-30EU is considered a group IV. So is Amsoil.
I LOL'ed.
Seriously though, Royal Purple is the only product I've used that sucked. I used 75-140 in my Diff on a 2001 WS.6, and less than 10K miles later, the pristine functioning diff spun the pinion bearing, and it was plainly evident by the colors it had turned that the bearings had seen some serious heat. It had previously looked great when we pulled the cover off to initially do the fluid change. I don't know what else to blame aside the lube. When we tore it down, yes, lube was in there. It was not underfilled and had not leaked out.
Not to derail this thread, but a few questions. I agree that Royal Purple isn't the best, but isn't terrible. Did you measure pinion bearing preload with a dial type torque wrench and was it in spec? Even with crap, it should have been better. Was there any grease monkeys using towels or abrasives on the job?
I also tried Royal Purple, both the oil and the gun lube. Both were disappointing.
The lubes I have settled on are Redline Racing Oil and Eezox. The Redline is an ester based oil (group V I think) with extra additives that are not EPA legal for street use. It stays put almost like grease and has some of the industry's best EP additives. It is better than most automotive oils for corrosion protection. Eezox wins hands down for protection and is an excellent lube for guns like Glocks and revolvers.
Not to derail this thread, but a few questions. I agree that Royal Purple isn't the best, but isn't terrible. Did you measure pinion bearing preload with a dial type torque wrench and was it in spec? Even with crap, it should have been better. Was there any grease monkeys using towels or abrasives on the job?
No. All we did was pop the cover, and drain and fill. We replaced an axle bearing was all. Noone touched the pinion or lash preloaded etc.
No. All we did was pop the cover, and drain and fill. We replaced an axle bearing was all. Noone touched the pinion or lash preloaded etc.
OK, just asking.
What is it with this constant obsession over lubes for the AR? I've been reading forums for years and it just never ends.
Are people looking for the "perfect" lube that will do ... what exactly?
I give my AR a quick wipe down and relube after every session and a deep cleaning every 500 to 1000 rounds.
I lube it until it is wet and after thousands of rounds through the same rifle I've never had a problem.
So, what's up with this obsession with lubes?
What is it with this constant obsession over lubes for the AR? I've been reading forums for years and it just never ends.
Are people looking for the "perfect" lube that will do ... what exactly?
I give my AR a quick wipe down and relube after every session and a deep cleaning every 500 to 1000 rounds.
I lube it until it is wet and after thousands of rounds through the same rifle I've never had a problem.
So, what's up with this obsession with lubes?
Well...I'm always looking for better. Fireclean is the better I've found. It allows better function, less time cleaning, and is non toxic. Why use a bcm bcg when PSA PTAC is 50% the cost? Well...because better. I much the same way--function and reliability in less than ideal circumstances.
I LOL'ed.
Seriously though, Royal Purple is the only product I've used that sucked. I used 75-140 in my Diff on a 2001 WS.6, and less than 10K miles later, the pristine functioning diff spun the pinion bearing, and it was plainly evident by the colors it had turned that the bearings had seen some serious heat. It had previously looked great when we pulled the cover off to initially do the fluid change. I don't know what else to blame aside the lube. When we tore it down, yes, lube was in there. It was not underfilled and had not leaked out.
There's a few different possibilities; 1. The particular Royal Purple product you used was not correct for your diff, for the metallurgy of your dif. A case in point, was the transmission fluid in my car. From reading on an enthusiast forum, I knew that I needed to replace the Ford tranny fluid with a better product. There were several I could have chosen from, but I read and read and read. It turned out that there was only one after-market synthetic tranny fluid that properly met the exact chemical needs of my transmission's metallurgy. If I had chosen one of the other possibilities, if I hadn't made the right choice, I could have done serious damage.
The other possibility is that your diff was ready to fail, and the Royal Purple had nothing to do with it's failure.
Of course there are other possibilities, but those are the two that spring to mind. Sorry for the thread de-rail.
There's a few different possibilities; 1. The particular Royal Purple product you used was not correct for your diff, for the metallurgy of your dif. A case in point, was the transmission fluid in my car. From reading on an enthusiast forum, I knew that I needed to replace the Ford tranny fluid with a better product. There were several I could have chosen from, but I read and read and read. It turned out that there was only one after-market synthetic tranny fluid that properly met the exact chemical needs of my transmission's metallurgy. If I had chosen one of the other possibilities, if I hadn't made the right choice, I could have done serious damage.
The other possibility is that your diff was ready to fail, and the Royal Purple had nothing to do with it's failure.
Of course there are other possibilities, but those are the two that spring to mind. Sorry for the thread de-rail.
That was years ago...but I still have a bottle of that Royal Purple. It is non-corrosive and rated for GL-4 and GL-5 applications. It contains an LSD additive.
It is possible that the two are UN-related. I cannot support causative factor convincingly. However, the Royal Purple certainly didn't SAVE the pinion bearing (which actually rotated/twisted in the housing), lol!
wildcard600
05-02-14, 07:29
Well...I'm always looking for better. Fireclean is the better I've found. It allows better function, less time cleaning, and is non toxic. Why use a bcm bcg when PSA PTAC is 50% the cost? Well...because better. I much the same way--function and reliability in less than ideal circumstances.
can you quantify "better function" with fireclean ? does the rifle jam with lubricants other than fireclean, or otherwise operate in some other manner more optimal than with competing lubricants ?
That was years ago...but I still have a bottle of that Royal Purple. It is non-corrosive and rated for GL-4 and GL-5 applications. It contains an LSD additive.
It is possible that the two are UN-related. I cannot support causative factor convincingly. However, the Royal Purple certainly didn't SAVE the pinion bearing (which actually rotated/twisted in the housing), lol!
I reject your reality, and substitute my own.;)
Because I am a Royal Purple fan-boy, I do hereby declare that R.P. gave you another 10k of driving miles before your doomed-to-fail diff.....failed. And that said application of RP in your diff housing stopped your diff from actually exploding under your car, and flipping it into a ditch, thereby saving your life.
It is hereby decreed that RP is the best, and nothing can be better.
ETA; WS6 Trans Am?
ETA2; Sorry, OP, for the MASSIVE thread-derail.
can you quantify "better function" with fireclean ? does the rifle jam with lubricants other than fireclean, or otherwise operate in some other manner more optimal than with competing lubricants ?
I have found that the FIREClean allows the action to cycle smoother on my suppressed .22 pistol. Likewise, when I cycle the action on my suppressed M4 after an afternoon of shooting, it feels a lot less gritty than with Froglube or others. I mention Froglube because it was especially bad at feeling gritted up. Also, I can clean my BCG very easily with just a paper towel and my hands when I use FIREClean. Makes PM easier/quicker. Further, when I shoot suppressed, I don't get a face full of petroleum product. Perfectly non-toxic? No. Has firing residue, but it's better. So why not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO6Mt4NOqI
I find it hard to believe that SLIP 2000 is the top choice. Is that EWL?... because that crap is comparable to Rem oil as far as I can tell... Thin, clear, and no staying ability.
wildcard600
05-02-14, 09:38
I have found that the FIREClean allows the action to cycle smoother on my suppressed .22 pistol. Likewise, when I cycle the action on my suppressed M4 after an afternoon of shooting, it feels a lot less gritty than with Froglube or others. I mention Froglube because it was especially bad at feeling gritted up. Also, I can clean my BCG very easily with just a paper towel and my hands when I use FIREClean. Makes PM easier/quicker. Further, when I shoot suppressed, I don't get a face full of petroleum product. Perfectly non-toxic? No. Has firing residue, but it's better. So why not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO6Mt4NOqI
have you tried motor oil ? i know it cant claim non-toxicity but i find it hard to beat for most lubrication duties. but i dont shoot supressed either.
have you tried motor oil ? i know it cant claim non-toxicity but i find it hard to beat for most lubrication duties. but i dont shoot supressed either.
Fireclean beats motor oil every time IMO, especially when shooting suppressed. If you have seen SMGLee's video of him doing a 60 rd mag dump suppressed he puts a drop or two of some different oils on his suppressor and Fireclean had the least burnoff. I tried a similar test with Mobil 1, Froglube, and Firclean and I had the same result. I've used Mobil 1 in the past and it flows off pretty easy, and the clean up with Fireclean is easier.
I've used regular gun oil, including the oft maligned Rem Oil, with great success. We can discuss the virtues & vices of different lubes till the cows come home but we're losing sight of the fact that as long as something is used, the AR isn't picky about what is used
SomeOtherGuy
05-02-14, 11:01
I find it hard to believe that SLIP 2000 is the top choice. Is that EWL?... because that crap is comparable to Rem oil as far as I can tell... Thin, clear, and no staying ability.
Doesn't surprise me at all - it was one of the top recommendations by experts and/or blog posters about 6-8 years ago, when lots of people were buying ARs or starting to shoot them more. I'd bet lots of people were told it was the best thing then, and just stayed with it unchanged. Not everyone is obsessed with miracle lubes. (A vice of which I've been guilty.)
Doesn't surprise me at all - it was one of the top recommendations by experts and/or blog posters about 6-8 years ago, when lots of people were buying ARs or starting to shoot them more. I'd bet lots of people were told it was the best thing then, and just stayed with it unchanged.
That must be it.
I find it hard to believe that SLIP 2000 is the top choice. Is that EWL?... because that crap is comparable to Rem oil as far as I can tell... Thin, clear, and no staying ability.
I didn't experience your issues with burn off, but it doesn't stay put nearly as well as FireClean.
I haven't tried fireClean... it may be glorious. Having said that, Slip 2000 EWL is NOT comparable to rem oil. I've tried Hoppes, Rem oil, Frog lube, and Slip 2000 EWL + the 30 wt. version of Slip 2000. Hoppes and Rem oil both performed poorly in my experience. I left the aforementioned lubes behind and moved on to froglube. Froglube performed admirably as long as my rifles didn't sit for a month. If the weather got the least bit cool and I wasn't able to go shooting regularly, Froglube would turn tacky/sticky. That was a deal breaker for me so I tried Slip 2000. I have zero complaints with Slip 2000 EWL. My rifles do nothing but run and the lubrication doesn't become tacky over time like froglube. I use Slip 2000 EWL on most parts of the rifle and use Slip 2000 EWL 30 on the parts that I would like a thicker, more viscous lube (Slip 2000 EWL 30 is somewhat similar in consistency to froglube, perhaps a bit thicker). If the regular Slip EWL is too runny, try Slip EWL 30. Im pleased with Slip for the foreseeable future.
I switched over to fire clean and I could immediately notice a difference. As others have stated it allows for a much easier cleaning of the rifle after the initial application. The videos they post up are good to see its effectiveness.
I didn't experience your issues with burn off, but it doesn't stay put nearly as well as FireClean.
In fairness, I only tried it on pistol. I'm happy with Froglube on ARs, but I like a regular oil on pistols.
Out of what's available in the market, I think FireClean is the best option for now. It does a pretty good job. Still doesn't make super models flock to me or make gold out of lead, so there's more work to do. In suppressed ARs it seems to show more of a difference than without running a can.
Damn near anything works. Don't over-think it.
I've been using a quart of mobile 1 synthetic motorcycle oil for about a decade and I've still got 3/4s of it. It cost $5. I have tried many of the other wonder oils and none of them impressed me much---MPro7, Slip EWL, etc. I did break down and buy a small bottle of Fireclean because of Vickers' recommendation a few months ago. I ran it on a BCG that was a little rough and I was shooting the rifle suppressed. It does work well---guns are easy to clean after using it and its slick as snot, but I really don't think its a revolutionary lubricant worth $12 per tiny bottle. It does perform marginally better than Mobile 1. But, it sure as hell is slick as snot---it would be my pick of a commercially marketed lubricant, but for my money, the $5/qt stuff works fine.
I ran Mobile 1 for a long time. In my environment it was ok... but doesn't hold a candle to froglube as far as keeping the bolt wet. Mobile 1 would run off in the safe and leave the bolt dry. Froglube runs off a little, but enough stays there to go shoot without needing a refresh.
Which Mobile were you running? I've used the synthetic 20w50 oil and it's working in my humid, temperate climate. It does run off, but enough stays where it needs to without having to reapply.
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