Dillon XL 650

[Coal Dragger]

*If this has already been covered please feel free to bust out the flame throwers and burn me to an internet crisp for not doing an adequate search.*

Are there any Dillon XL 650 users on here who might like to share some tips on this machine? Specifically any issues that a new owner/operator of said machine needs to look out for when setting it up, and maintaining it over time. I'm also curious about what accessories are worthwhile and which ones are best avoided or not really all that beneficial.

The reason I am on here asking these questions is that my wife decided to buy me one, because for the first time in 7 years we are getting a tax refund... instead of owing the IRS money. She already bought if from the LGS, so I have one with a shell plate and case feed assembly parts for a 9X19mm which will also do 9X21, and .38 Super I think. I don't currently own any pistols chambered in any of those rounds, but I've been meaning to add a 9mm something to the collection so no big deal. She just got the press with no other accessories, so I am trying to figure out what I absolutely need, what I merely want, and what I can put off or ignore.

For background I have been reloading now for a little over 15 years, and have accumulated 15 years worth of reloading tools and other equipment. I already have a Dillon Square Deal B in .45ACP so I am familiar with some operating aspects of a Dillon press. I also use a Redding T7 for some other calibers I don't shoot a lot of or otherwise don't want to mass reload.

I want to get the press set up to run .223/5.56mm as a first order of business, adding .308/7.62X51 and possibly .22-250 later, as well as the 9mm that it came with.

First major question I have for anyone that has used one on any press: is the automatic case feeder a good buy or a waste of money? It seems the XL 650 was really intended to run with a case feeder, and the alternative appears to be a pain in the ass but I won't know until I get my caliber conversion kit. Should I just go ahead and order the case feeder at the same time?

Second question: Is the powder check worth messing with? It seems like a good idea but if it doesn't work well then I won't bother. I understand it doesn't assure powder charge accuracy.

Third question: To add a roller handle or to stick with the round ball? I have a lot of rounds loaded with no roller handle, but they don't cost much and look like they might be pretty nice am I wrong?

I appreciate anyone who takes the time to give my any advice on what is what. Thanks in advance!

[mattg1024]

1: Buy the case feeder. It helps the most when prepping brass, especially if you do it in bulk.

3: Buy the roller handle. It helps the most when prepping brass, especially if you do it in bulk.

2: I do not bother with the powder check. You can usually see inside the case enough to know if something is wrong.

[Coal Dragger]

Thanks!

So when prepping brass do you then use the Dillon powered case trimmer/resizing die and a de-capping die in a separate toolhead? I have seen some videos of a set up like that and it looked interesting.

[mattg1024]

I use a sizing die and case trimmer on one tool head, then on a separate tool head I have a universal decapper, (in case of crud in hole) powder, seater, crimper.

Works very well for me. I'll usually prep a couple thousand cases, then switch tool heads and load.

[SPQR476]

That's pretty much exactly what I would have said. +1 on no powder check, just sit in a way that you can see the level of the powder charge between powder station and seating. I use a desk lamp to see into the case better on small charges in large cases.

And don't even think of getting a 650 with no case feeder.

[Coal Dragger]

Yeah... After reading all of this and mocking up where I want to mount the press on my new bench I put the handle on and clamped the machine to the top with some wood working clamps. I then used some 5.56mm brass in the case feeder with no tube on, just dropping the case into the little cammed feeding arm. While it does work it is a pain in the ass to be moving my right hand all over the place between strokes of the handle. So there's no freakin' way this outfit is getting used with no case feeder, Dillon should just up the price and include the damn thing.

I also determined that I am going to ditch the standard handle for a Dillon or Inline Fabrication roller handle, and that I have clearance issues with the press handle, and camming pivot, as the handle is run down to full stroke the bottom end of the handle where it screws in hits the bottom of my bench top. So I need to either bust out my Bosch oscillating tool and do some fine cutting work to make clearance or get a press mount that gives good clearance underneath. The machine is about the right height as is on my 40" tall work bench, so I really don't want too tall of a mount. Anyone have experience with the Inline Fabrication 4" tall Ultramount? I think that would work but I'm curious about how stiff it is, my SDB is on a Dillon Strong Mount and frankly it flexes more than I like, and would be too tall with the XL 650.

[SPQR476]

I also didn't want the height of the strong mount. I cut a generously sized baseplate out of plywood floor decking, screwed it to the bench with enough overhang for clearance, then mounted the 650, front screws to the plate, rear screws through the plate and the bench top. Solid as Gibraltar.

[SPDGG]

imho/fwiw:

I highly recommend products/upgrades from InlineFabrication. I pretty much use everything they offer

- Ergo Roller Handle
http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/dillion-650-powdercoated

- Ultramount
http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/ultramount-press-riser-system-for-the-dillon-650

- Double Tray Assembly
http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/double-bullet-tray-for-dillon-550-650

- SKY Light & 2x Strip Lights [Floods the Press with LED White Lights]
http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/skylighttm-led-lighting-kit-for-the-dillon-650
http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon/products/2-led-strip-ceiling-kit

^ All the products just make sense, made/offered by a reloader

[Coal Dragger]

^ You are not helping my bank account....

Any experience with their short Ultramount? At only 4" tall that would actually be perfect height for me but unless the mount is canted forward to get some overhang on the bench I'm not sure if it would work. The photo makes it appear that way. Maybe I should call them. SPQR476 thanks for the suggestion on the baseplate idea, I may end up going that route.

[SPDGG]

^ "Coal Dragger", I know the feeling . . . But, its dollars well spent ;)



Any experience with their short Ultramount? At only 4" tall that would actually be perfect height for me but unless the mount is canted forward to get some overhang on the bench I'm not sure if it would work. The photo makes it appear that way. Maybe I should call them.
Wish I could help you with direct feedback on the Micro Ultra Mount, but I have the std. height Ultra Mount. [I prefer to stand when I reload]

I believe the Micro Ultra-mount does cant forward for clearance of the linkage/ram assembly. In the description it states to that it will get in the way of cabinets if you have any under the bench.

Dan @ Inline Fabrication is GTG, Very helpful. I'd call him up to confirm.

* What is the height of your bench?

[Coal Dragger]

Bench height is right at about 40" tall. I like to work standing up, or on a tall stool.

Bench top is 3/4" plywood with a 2"X6" up front that is laid flat underneath to create a strong rigid lip, and then box framed behind that with 2"X4"s. So it ended up at 40" tall, 30" deep, and 96" long with an under shelf also framed out and doubled up 2"X4"s for legs. All of which is now cleverly screwed to the wall top and bottom into wall studs. It is very solid.

[SPDGG]

^ I just checked the height of my bench: 35" w/ Standard Height Ultramount approx. 44-45"

I get why you want the Micro over the Std. height now.
4" height of the Micro Ultra Mount would be ideal with a 40" Bench Height.
If you don't have any drawers/doors under, I'd say it will be perfect with the Micro Ultra Mount Height.

[SPDGG]

Another Item:

Spent Primer Chute Mod.
- You can make it or buy it

Something like these Kits:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Spent-Primer-Upgrade-/281302460212?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417eeee734
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-650-Spent-Primer-Chute-Kit-for-Dillon-650-Reloading-Press-/171149446970?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d94d4f3a

edit to add:
- Several Options for Adjusting Powder:

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Powder-Adjusting-Bolt-/141243750637?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e2c898ed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MRDial-ADJUSTMENT-DIAL-KNOB-DILLON-POWDER-MEASURE-/330556546223?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf6b49caf

* Cheaper plastic knobs can be found on eBay as well

[Coal Dragger]

Nice. My Redding T7 came with a primer schuute and tube like that out of the box. It's the shit. Totally superioir to catch cans or any other method I've used. Just put the end of the tube in a trash can.

[SPDGG]

Nice. My Redding T7 came with a primer schuute and tube like that out of the box. It's the shit. Totally superioir to catch cans or any other method I've used. Just put the end of the tube in a trash can.
^ Save those spent primers & take them to a scrap yard = More Fresh Primer $$$

- Reloading is as green as I get, All about recycling :)

[Mauser KAR98K]

^ Save those spent primers & take them to a scrap yard = More Fresh Primer $$$

- Reloading is as green as I get, All about recycling :)

How do you class and recycle spent primers? I tried at my local scrap place to recycle old spent brass but they would not take them.

Coal Digger Congrates on getting The (Almost) Beast (Real beast is the XL1050). The XL650 is no slouch, but you have to stay on top of it to keep it running and running reliable. Your FIRST acquisition should be Dilion's spare parts kit/bag. Dilion makes one of the best progressive reloading presses out there, but they ARE prone to breaking. The spare parts come in handy WHEN parts break. Even the spring that pushes the case guide on the primer station will go who knows where on your first go around with it. Lost that sum-bitch 4 times, working on the 3rd spring.

Two areas to keep your attention virtually glued to are the primer station and the powder station. The primer station can cause problems via primers getting tuend on edge and jhamming the system. Some primers can be larger than the primer tube in the station and clog up the system. Before you know it, you have 20 cases unprimed with a bullet and charge on it. Also make sure the primer wheel is indexing. The indexing arm can get off track, or the screw the holds the wheel in place can be loose and release tension.

The powder station needs to be eyed in regards to the rod that connects to the slotted bell crank. This will get worn over time and has a tendency to slip out, causing no charge into the casings (had to hammer out 35 bullets from rounds with no charges). Keep an eye on the square plastic washer that slides on the outside of the powder bar.

I have been running my Dilion for over 5 years without a case feeder. Would it be nice? God yes! But for me loading the casings when the tube runs out keeps me from getting distracted with my thoughts and keeps me from getting into trouble. The powder checker is a nice "safety" gadget to make sure you are not get getting an over charge or under charge. There have been instances that if I had had it, ti would have saved me a ton of grief.

Get multiple tool heads and either buy or make tool head rest so your dies are always ready to be fine tuned when changing calibers (never think they are set and forget...double check your stuff).

If you are going to reload mass amounts of .223/5.56 this is what you are going to need:
1. High speed trimmer die and sizing die it holds into.
2. Dilion's carbide die set. I have had many issues with casings getting stuck inside RCBS and lee dies, but never on Dilions carbid die sets. These dies have a very long life.
3. A bearing set that smooths out the case plate rotation. This is more for when you reload pistols to keep the powder from getting jostled out, but it also works on the rifle side too (can't remember the name of the company that makes them).
4. A very large tumbler and a load of buckets. :)

The case trimmer is a must in order to maximize your time trimming and reloading. I used to have to trim all my casings by hand on a drill press. Many hours spent and a right hand with tendinitis, I broke down and got the high speed trimmer. My case prep time was slashed by 80%! I had resized and trimmed over 3,000 casings in about 3 to 5 hours at one point.

From that point on, grab either IMR 355 or CFE223, get your charge right, grab a load of primers and bullets and you are off to the races. I averaged about .15-.19 a round reloading last year during the panic. Your biggest obstinate is getting good brass and making sure they are still good. I got lucky a few years back when i went to a 3 gun match with a heavy rifle count and scored about 2,000 pieces of .223 brass.

As for reloading pistol calibers; if you use Lee dies I find that they do not go as far down as is needed to resize and decap. The problem is the that their large locking nut is too tall and does not allow the dies to screw further down. Dilion's locking nuts from their trimmer dies are shallow enough to get the right depth, so I am in the process of replacing all my lee locking nuts with those...and they do fit. You can also go the carbid route, but I really want the carbid on the rifle dies that I am going to reload in mass.

Good luck and enjoy your new money pit. You will be shooting a lot more when you start reloading, and thus the expense goes up. It is cheaper in the long run and you do get more trigger opportunities by the hundreds. The down side is you have come to reloading when powder is scarce, particular pistol powder which you cannot find.

Watch this 13 video guide on reloading .223 in mass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7tFxx9W-Yk&list=PL7F4DEA849E39D511

[Tzed250]

The largest amount of info for the 650 and other Dillon presses can be found on the Brian Enos forums.

I don't have a 650, but I do have a Hornady AP mounted to my 41" tall workbench. I can use the press standing, or sitting on a bar stool. I machined a mounting plate out of 3/4 steel plate to put the AP and whatever other equipment I needed on a hell strong foundation.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/11199545663_e6ac02d65e_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/11199545663/)
Untitled (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/11199545663/) by zweitakt250 (https://www.flickr.com/people/41385771@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/11199423834_939f3d64e4_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/11199423834/)
Untitled (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/11199423834/) by zweitakt250 (https://www.flickr.com/people/41385771@N03/), on Flickr

I also made a handle that I think is better for me. I'm not wild about the roller handles but I wanted one that fit me better.


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3665/13609963085_c8298bbcba_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/13609963085/)
Ergo Ball (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/13609963085/) by zweitakt250 (https://www.flickr.com/people/41385771@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3668/13610315194_8f1772353a_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/13610315194/)
Ergo Ball (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/13610315194/) by zweitakt250 (https://www.flickr.com/people/41385771@N03/), on Flickr

Your height and preferences will determine how you want your press mounted. Report back when you have it up and running!

[Coal Dragger]

How do you class and recycle spent primers? I tried at my local scrap place to recycle old spent brass but they would not take them.

Coal Digger Congrates on getting The (Almost) Beast (Real beast is the XL1050). The XL650 is no slouch, but you have to stay on top of it to keep it running and running reliable. Your FIRST acquisition should be Dilion's spare parts kit/bag. Dilion makes one of the best progressive reloading presses out there, but they ARE prone to breaking. The spare parts come in handy WHEN parts break. Even the spring that pushes the case guide on the primer station will go who knows where on your first go around with it. Lost that sum-bitch 4 times, working on the 3rd spring.

Two areas to keep your attention virtually glued to are the primer station and the powder station. The primer station can cause problems via primers getting tuend on edge and jhamming the system. Some primers can be larger than the primer tube in the station and clog up the system. Before you know it, you have 20 cases unprimed with a bullet and charge on it. Also make sure the primer wheel is indexing. The indexing arm can get off track, or the screw the holds the wheel in place can be loose and release tension.

The powder station needs to be eyed in regards to the rod that connects to the slotted bell crank. This will get worn over time and has a tendency to slip out, causing no charge into the casings (had to hammer out 35 bullets from rounds with no charges). Keep an eye on the square plastic washer that slides on the outside of the powder bar.

I have been running my Dilion for over 5 years without a case feeder. Would it be nice? God yes! But for me loading the casings when the tube runs out keeps me from getting distracted with my thoughts and keeps me from getting into trouble. The powder checker is a nice "safety" gadget to make sure you are not get getting an over charge or under charge. There have been instances that if I had had it, ti would have saved me a ton of grief.

Get multiple tool heads and either buy or make tool head rest so your dies are always ready to be fine tuned when changing calibers (never think they are set and forget...double check your stuff).

If you are going to reload mass amounts of .223/5.56 this is what you are going to need:
1. High speed trimmer die and sizing die it holds into.
2. Dilion's carbide die set. I have had many issues with casings getting stuck inside RCBS and lee dies, but never on Dilions carbid die sets. These dies have a very long life.
3. A bearing set that smooths out the case plate rotation. This is more for when you reload pistols to keep the powder from getting jostled out, but it also works on the rifle side too (can't remember the name of the company that makes them).
4. A very large tumbler and a load of buckets. :)

The case trimmer is a must in order to maximize your time trimming and reloading. I used to have to trim all my casings by hand on a drill press. Many hours spent and a right hand with tendinitis, I broke down and got the high speed trimmer. My case prep time was slashed by 80%! I had resized and trimmed over 3,000 casings in about 3 to 5 hours at one point.

From that point on, grab either IMR 355 or CFE223, get your charge right, grab a load of primers and bullets and you are off to the races. I averaged about .15-.19 a round reloading last year during the panic. Your biggest obstinate is getting good brass and making sure they are still good. I got lucky a few years back when i went to a 3 gun match with a heavy rifle count and scored about 2,000 pieces of .223 brass.

As for reloading pistol calibers; if you use Lee dies I find that they do not go as far down as is needed to resize and decap. The problem is the that their large locking nut is too tall and does not allow the dies to screw further down. Dilion's locking nuts from their trimmer dies are shallow enough to get the right depth, so I am in the process of replacing all my lee locking nuts with those...and they do fit. You can also go the carbid route, but I really want the carbid on the rifle dies that I am going to reload in mass.

Good luck and enjoy your new money pit. You will be shooting a lot more when you start reloading, and thus the expense goes up. It is cheaper in the long run and you do get more trigger opportunities by the hundreds. The down side is you have come to reloading when powder is scarce, particular pistol powder which you cannot find.

Watch this 13 video guide on reloading .223 in mass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7tFxx9W-Yk&list=PL7F4DEA849E39D511


Thanks for the input, I've battled the primer system on my Dillon Square Deal B already and figured I would have to keep on top of the new one as well, just a different system so I'll have to learn the idiosyncrasies. I've actually been really lucky with my powder charge station on the SDB, I've had that press for 14 years and haven't had an issue with the powder charge station. In fact last night I finally reassembled and mounted the old SDB on the new larger bench after a through cleaning and lubrication, man that made a difference it was long overdue.

Good advice on the dies, I'll most likely use either Dillon dies or Redding dies. I really like Redding dies a lot, so I may mix and match depending on what I want to do. In particular I really like the Redding competition seating die, I bought one for my .454 Casull and the super fine control of seating is very helpful as is the very positive alignment and control of the bullet as it is seated. I'll be buying one for .223 ASAP even though I have two sets of dies for .223 already (long story). As for pistol reloading, if it is a strait wall case it gets resized with a carbide resizing die. I don't buy anything else for pistols.

For components I have a decent amount of once fired NATO brass on hand, and several bricks of primers. I usually try to keep a reserve of components on hand if I can. I even have over 9lbs of CFE223 on hand right now. The LGS managed to score me an 8lb jug of it during the height of the panic, not sure how he managed that. Now Alliant Power Pistol on the other hand I am almost out of and can't find anywhere, but that is about the only powder I use regularly that has been hard for me to find lately. I have H110, IMR 4350, IMR 4831, and some other slow burning rifle powders on hand in good supply as well, never had much trouble getting those.

[Mauser KAR98K]

Thanks for the input, I've battled the primer system on my Dillon Square Deal B already and figured I would have to keep on top of the new one as well, just a different system so I'll have to learn the idiosyncrasies. I've actually been really lucky with my powder charge station on the SDB, I've had that press for 14 years and haven't had an issue with the powder charge station. In fact last night I finally reassembled and mounted the old SDB on the new larger bench after a through cleaning and lubrication, man that made a difference it was long overdue.

Good advice on the dies, I'll most likely use either Dillon dies or Redding dies. I really like Redding dies a lot, so I may mix and match depending on what I want to do. In particular I really like the Redding competition seating die, I bought one for my .454 Casull and the super fine control of seating is very helpful as is the very positive alignment and control of the bullet as it is seated. I'll be buying one for .223 ASAP even though I have two sets of dies for .223 already (long story). As for pistol reloading, if it is a strait wall case it gets resized with a carbide resizing die. I don't buy anything else for pistols.

For components I have a decent amount of once fired NATO brass on hand, and several bricks of primers. I usually try to keep a reserve of components on hand if I can. I even have over 9lbs of CFE223 on hand right now. The LGS managed to score me an 8lb jug of it during the height of the panic, not sure how he managed that. Now Alliant Power Pistol on the other hand I am almost out of and can't find anywhere, but that is about the only powder I use regularly that has been hard for me to find lately. I have H110, IMR 4350, IMR 4831, and some other slow burning rifle powders on hand in good supply as well, never had much trouble getting those.

I'm in the same boat in regards to rifle powder; I can get it. Pistol powder is a whole different story. I have some Herc 2400 for .44mag, 1.4 pounds of Bullseye left, 1 pound of Unique, and a good old stash of Red Dot for doing lead loads. Too Bad my HKs don't like lead.

Just did my first run of resizing and trimming 30.06 casings. Loaded 10 rounds for test through my M1 before I give the rest a run through. Unfortubatly I don't have a 30.06 case gauge, but my neighbor has a .308 that I am going to see if I can borrow. Then it is off to finding a good 147 gr FMU load with either BL-C2, H335 or CFE223 for my FAL. This will be my first attempt to reload .308 in mass. Gladly .223 has given me the lessons and experience to go for the bigger calibers.

Trust me in learning rifle reloading in mass via .223 before stepping up to .308. .223 is a little more forgiving and less expensive if you screw up something.

I had to get a Redding die for resizing my .308 brass, and I am about to see how it works on the Dilion sometime this week in conjunction of the trimmer die. I need to get the match die sets since I have been wanting, and needing to get match quality loads down correctly instead of the most inexpensive, yet time consuming, way i have been doing for years. I have great success with the .223 Dilion carbide dies,especially on the resizing. Only had to clean it once, and that was with the red residue of the red rock median that I am happy I have switched away from. Everything was coated in red.

Generally when i do a caliber change I will give a quick scrubbing of the machine and tighten down sensitive components before switching. The two allen screws under the case plate need tending to if you have done a 1,000 or more rounds. Mine tend to get loose and throws my indexing alignment off.

Again, good luck. Once you have mastered it, your reloading times will drop more than half, and the amount you reload will triple. Watch all the vids on youtube about it, ask questions, and if you get into a jam with the press, call Dilion.

Tzed: Your bench is way too clean, or mine is just way too cluttered.

[wilson1911]

Get the roller handle, I waited years for this and am disappointed that I did not get this from the get go.

buy the micrometer power bar, its great.

I also use the machined tool heads, this makes your round much more consistent.

I usually tell people to add in the case feeders after they have loaded manually for a bit.

Get a Dillon Calender, your wife will wonder how come your always going to the gun room to check the date.

I use the Giraud case trimmer.

[Ripdog33]

All those things are nice to have but a Spare Parts Kit is absolutely needed for the 650. I'd get it before you start using the 650.

[wilson1911]

A spare parts kit is not an option when you own a press. I have multiples of everything. I once broke a primer punch pin while reloading for a class. Good thing was I always load more than enough or I would have been down for the count. There is nothing worse than breaking and not having that 2 dollar part in the spares bin. Or having to wait 2 weeks to get it from dillon.

[SteveS]

A spare parts kit is not an option when you own a press. I have multiples of everything. I once broke a primer punch pin while reloading for a class. Good thing was I always load more than enough or I would have been down for the count. There is nothing worse than breaking and not having that 2 dollar part in the spares bin. Or having to wait 2 weeks to get it from dillon.
I don't have a 650 I have a 550 . I have had it since 1991 and it doesn't need parts often but YES having the spare parts kit is a must have item.

[Mer2112]

One trick to use Lee dies on the 650 is to put the lock ring on the underside on the toolhead. This also lets me use a regular socket wrench to tighten it up.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

[skullworks]

I have the MRDial (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330556546223) adjustment dial for my powder measure but more importantly I also bought this little guy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Missed-LIVE-Primer-Chute-Ski-Jump-Fix-Upgrade/281397371155) as the ski jump that is supposed to catch live primers only helps to propel them into the room. I've also added a Mr. BulletFeeder (http://www.mrbulletfeeder.com/):


http://youtu.be/1rTkBqoPfyk

[rcoodyar15]

I have the MRDial (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330556546223) adjustment dial for my powder measure but more importantly I also bought this little guy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-XL-650-Missed-LIVE-Primer-Chute-Ski-Jump-Fix-Upgrade/281397371155) as the ski jump that is supposed to catch live primers only helps to propel them into the room. I've also added a Mr. BulletFeeder (http://www.mrbulletfeeder.com/):


http://youtu.be/1rTkBqoPfyk


Go all in

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9wGVRGbQrU&feature=player_embedded

[skullworks]

Yeah, couple of friends of mine has setups like that.