View Full Version : Colt Sporter pre ban Lower, modern upper
Hey,
the Colt sporter lower, It was built so it couldn't be converted to full auto, or at least not easily... and that's fine. I want to put a newer upper on it, and was curious what to do about that hunk of metal above the safety selector, because it prevents the BCG from cycling. Cut it flush to the receiver? drill that pin and pop the piece out and put a newer safety selector in there?
anybody have experience with this?
thanks
scott
You need to send the lower to specialized armament to get the sear block reduced.
The pin holding it in can't be removed without destroying the lower
so this isn't something that a machinist can do? or is it a legal issue to have a machinist reduce the block?
thanks again
scott
Cut the sear block flush to the lower with a dremel. It isn't pretty but it is fast,cheap and 100% functional with a full auto BCG.
Eurodriver
04-21-14, 05:11
Cut the sear block flush to the lower with a dremel. It isn't pretty but it is fast,cheap and 100% functional with a full auto BCG.
If he's a machinist, I think he has something a bit better than a dermal.
I think ADCO does this service, and they have an excellent reputation.
For my own edification, I assume you have this pre-ban lower because you live in a ban state...do the laws there address you modifying the lower in this manner or not?
I think ADCO does this service, and they have an excellent reputation.
For my own edification, I assume you have this pre-ban lower because you live in a ban state...do the laws there address you modifying the lower in this manner or not?
Adco uses a dremel tool on these and does a shitty job on them.
so this isn't something that a machinist can do? or is it a legal issue to have a machinist reduce the block?
thanks again
scott
It is not illegal to remove the block.
You need to send it to specialized armament. They are the only people that know how to do this correctly.
They are colts custom shop for Ar15s.
The block reduction requires a carbide mill.
I don't want to repeat this information again. You have been warned.
Don't put your high dollar lower at risk.
SAW did Pappabears, and it is gorgeous. If you like the gun and want it to look factory, SAW is the way to go.
He mills it flat and finishes it. Worth the $75 or whatever he charges if you want a professional looking job that you really won't notice when you look into the lower.
It is not illegal to remove the block.
You need to send it to specialized armament. They are the only people that know how to do this correctly.
They are colts custom shop for Ar15s.
The block reduction requires a carbide mill.
I don't want to repeat this information again. You have been warned.
Don't put your high dollar lower at risk.
Good info, thank you.
SAW did Pappabears, and it is gorgeous. If you like the gun and want it to look factory, SAW is the way to go.
He mills it flat and finishes it. Worth the $75 or whatever he charges if you want a professional looking job that you really won't notice when you look into the lower.
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
This comment is retarded.
A preban lower costs between $500 and $1500
The sear blocks are installed in preban lowers.
A quality stripped post ban lower does not cost $75
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
True. You can finish that lower off with some model 1 and del ton parts and have a nice retro gun. :sarcastic:
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
At one time pre 94 lowers were worth 10 times that in some states?? GH
Please don't comment unless you have something to add that is beneficial. This one wasn't.
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
Good info already posted, but there is another route to consider. If your goal is to run a decent BCG that isn't the old Sporter style (neutered tail section and exposed firing pin) you can use a semi-auto carrier. You just need to ensure that the tail section is relieved enough (not FA profile) so that it does not contact the block.
Sporter carrier (one version)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8428.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/AR15forme/media/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8428.jpg.html)
block
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8426.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/AR15forme/media/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8426.jpg.html)
6520 rehabbed with CMT semi-auto carrier
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8253.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/AR15forme/media/Colt%20AR15/IMG_8253.jpg.html)
This is one off the three lowers I did with a POS dremel it took 15 minutes. Two pics are the same lower flash and no flash Iphone pics.
Advice was given, do what you want. I would want it done professionally considering the value it has.
Why would you take a dremel to an increasingly rare and expensive lower?
Get it professionally done.
I can post a pic of Specialized's work for comparison if necessary. It would have to be after work though.
Beat Trash
04-22-14, 08:35
Spend a few bucks and have it done right, the first time.
Sometimes, what has been done, can not be undone. Dremel tools and soldering irons on polymer pistols have screwed up more than a few guns.
I agree with eric. That is exactly what I did. Nothing to cut or grind.
I agree with eric. That is exactly what I did. Nothing to cut or grind.
That is an option. But if you want parts compatibility for real... having it cut is the way to go.
See... I've had a carrier key bolt crack/fail. It made the carrier non functional until it could be fixed by a machinist. A simple carrier swap kept the gun going temporarily. With that block, you're limited on carrier options... and I don't see those semi carriers around nearly as much anymore.
I know it's on the outside chances of events... but a 16 carrier must work in all my guns.
That's why I assumed the OP was in a ban state, and wanted it done right....if he were in a free state, I'd consider selling it to someone in a ban state and get the $$$ to fund a new one.
SAW work looks 100%, but is is worth the cosmetic price difference as compared to a home job.
great posts... yes the lowers are in CT. My dad got into AR's late and got a pair of sporters for us. I sent my sporter to modern outfitters in MS to get a some work plus a cerakote job, including removal of the block. I have a Spikes Tactical and a CA-308 in other states that I use as well. I visit my parents in CT a lot so it's nice to not have to ship guns or risk travel through NY. We might send my dad's to modern outfitters as well and have them do the work and an air force paint scheme as my dad was a USAF pilot in the 60's... MATS
thanks again
scott
This is a high dollar preban pushpin 6520 lower that is being rebuilt to a 733 short-barreled rifle on a form 1.
Note the sear block after the SAW reduction. The dark chocolate / black color finish is reapplied.
It looks factory (if not better) and the factory Colt gray anodizing and aluminum lower is untouched.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/photo431.JPG
Yeah... there it is. Very nice.
In my opinion $75.00 plus shipping is to much. You can buy a high quality stripped lower for less money.
Like a very nice ultra light poly bush. Seriously? I too would not skimp on having a potentially life saving tool hacked.
I was also reccomended to SAW. Thanks for the info now I will move forward with getting it done. Thanks most individuals involved for the good info. I will update later.
scottryan
So what is that pre ban wurth after you've removed the block? Cause then it isn't a true preban anymore!! So then it becomes a $75 lower right!:rolleyes: You guy's kill me!:p
Having Specialized do this is just about like having COLT do it. I wouldn't consider this mod a value dropper at all.... In fact... I'd have told Pappabear to pass on the gun he bought because of the Block... the Block is a devaluation feature to me. He'd already bought the gun before I thought about it, so we had the issue corrected.
Now there were a few nuts on ARF who figgered out how to take the block out completely with several exact cuts and many dremel wheels. That left the lower with big holes on either side. Kind of unsightly.
Now there were a few nuts on ARF who figgered out how to take the block out completely with several exact cuts and many dremel wheels. That left the lower with big holes on either side. Kind of unsightly.
John Norrell has been completely removing the block completely for about 20 years now. They come back looking like an RR M16 lower. Perfect.
SAWs work is probably the best deal ($75 is cheap as hell for that quality of work IMO) but I prefer John if you ever plan on using an RDIAS or R LL like I did. He's done about four or five Colts for me over the years and they're all perfect.
With an RDIAS or a LL, you can pick any lower with the correct "shelf". Whatever works for a guy... by all means... but I'd just run those devices in an easier lowers.
I had mine done in the 90s and early 00s when only Scrubmaster and DPMS were available; Colt pre-bans were the only legit choice back then.
Still, having that block in there like Scott has isn't terrible. For $75 that is a smoking deal. I'd go that route currently. I was just giving John a plug since he mills the entire thing out and it will truly look "factory".
For sure. It's been a while since I read John Norrell's name on a forum. Was he the 10/22 select fire trigger pack man?
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