View Full Version : Glock grip reduction DIY'ers, did you use epoxy?
Good day all!
Long story short. I went to my first all day pistol class this weekend (Dave Spaulding, can't recommend him enough!!!!!!) and my right hand was really sore from the from the fingers grooves and hump in the back strap.
I've been thinking about "customizing" my Glock 19 grip for a long time, but now I am convinced it's the right move. I've done quite a bit of reading and watching some videos and I am not really worrying about achieving an acceptable (to me) finished product. The only thing I can't quite figure out is how many folks are filling the area next to the back strap with epoxy.
I'm going to try heating the area will a candle and "rolling it out," but I've read that sometimes that works and sometimes the plastic pops back. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this to take?
Do the "pros" fill the area with epoxy or do they have some trick I'm not aware of?
Thanks for your help ahead of time!
Giff
jeremycase00
05-26-14, 22:48
If your not dead set on modifying the back strap I would just start with removing the finger groves. I did my G19 and it made a world of difference to me.
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For backstrap reduction only I greatly prefer to do a heat and roll reduction as opposed to fill and grind. Heating and working the polymer comes with experience. Too much or too little heat will get poor results. Once the poly is at an ideal temp / malleability you must hold it in its final shape until it cools to a temp where it sets to its new shape. Too little heat and it will not hold its shape well. Too much heat is where you get problems.
SpyderMan2k4
05-27-14, 07:32
I tried heating and molding mine for 2 hours and couldn't get decent results. At that point I gave up and filled it with epoxy and ground it down.
Howdy Giff,
From a different POV:
I have a G23 which has the same frame and grip as the G19 and I've never seen any reason to modify the grip.
I've had my G23 since '06 and have sent +20,000 rounds of .40cal downrange. I also have a 40-9mm conversion barrel and a Ceiner .22LR kit and I've set +15,000rds downrange with the 9mm barrel and another +30,000rds with the .22LR kit and have never ended up with a sore hand. Some of my range trips have involved shooting over 500rds in one trip.
Just my $.02 and your mileage MAY vary.
Paul
steve462x0
05-27-14, 08:58
I would never do such severe changes to a firearm, just buy another one
I realize your post involves DIY.
I wouldnt be comfortable with either of the methods you suggested.
The best grip reductions I have seen havd been done here:
http://union-arms.com/gunsmithing
They weld a "glock like material" to the frame and grind it to shape. I asked about epoxy and was told that it chips much more easily. I am not comfortable melting the gun.
MSparks909
05-27-14, 11:27
I used the candle method. More details in this thread:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?150801-Glock-34-frame-mods-and-trigger-upgrade
Good day all!
Long story short. I went to my first all day pistol class this weekend (Dave Spaulding, can't recommend him enough!!!!!!) and my right hand was really sore from the from the fingers grooves and hump in the back strap.
I've been thinking about "customizing" my Glock 19 grip for a long time, but now I am convinced it's the right move. I've done quite a bit of reading and watching some videos and I am not really worrying about achieving an acceptable (to me) finished product. The only thing I can't quite figure out is how many folks are filling the area next to the back strap with epoxy.
I'm going to try heating the area will a candle and "rolling it out," but I've read that sometimes that works and sometimes the plastic pops back. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this to take?
Do the "pros" fill the area with epoxy or do they have some trick I'm not aware of?
Thanks for your help ahead of time!
Giff
Most all of the mainstream reductions on Glocks use some type of filler on the back strap. There are two main methods use for reductions, the fill and grind, and the heat method.
The fill and grind method requires the use of a filler material, the heat method does not. The fill and grind method also requires texturing to be done via an epoxy, or some type of spray on material. The fill and grind method is the easiest way to do a reduction. Fill the back strap, and grind away until the desired profile is achieved. The disadvantage is the texture can chip, flake and wear off. While I haven't seen one do it on a long, long time, the filler material could separate from the grip. There is an area on the back strap where the filler material shows, this is what has to be covered by the spray on or applied texture. Most all filler materials cannot be textured any other way than spraying on or applying a texture material.
The heat method is typically more labor intensive as it requires the back strap to be heated and reworked. It takes more time to achieve the grip profile this way. The advantage to this method, it the back strap material isn't ground way until there is a hole in the frame. This eliminates the chance of any filler material used from separating rendering the frame unusable until repaired. The texturing is done by using a heat tool of some type, and the parent polymer is textured. Nothing is added or sprayed on the grip. It will never flake, chip or wear off.
My preference is the heat method as IMO produces a much cleaner finished product.
Example of fill and grind.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/g19lrobar3hq6_zps6d26ad52.jpg
This one was done with the heat method.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/DSC_0068_zps80f992fb.jpg
Another advantage to the heat method is it can be done to OD and FDE frames without requiring refinishing the frame.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/DSC_0006-1.jpg
This was done with the fill and grind method, but texturing was done with heat. NOTE: the back strap area and filler material visible.
The texturing on the filler material was done with a grinding tool which is why it looks different front the sides and front.
The texturing on the sides and front was done by heat, and that method cannot be used on the filler material.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff295/Texaspoff/132-big_zpsec8257c9.jpg
TXPO
SpyderMan2k4
05-27-14, 14:20
It depends on how much material is removed. I filled the hole for stability but did not grind all the way through the frame. Once I got it to the shape I wanted it I stippled it. If you're careful there's no need to apply extra materials or finish that can flake off, just stipple it.
I used the heat method and mine turned out perfect for my hand.. Exactly how I wanted it to look and feel but it did take quite some time to get it done right without ruining the gun. I expect the fill and grind method would take just as long. I have about 3500 rounds through it since with no issues.
I had some discomfort with the stock gen 3 G19 grip and I actually just added the grip force beaver tail and it changed the grip angle just enough and was cheap. To date no discomfort after about 2000 rnds. Still debating on sending it out to get professionally done.
SeriousStudent
05-27-14, 21:49
Lane, thanks very much for the photos and the explanations, I appreciate you taking the time to do that.
Stay safe down there, too.
I tried the grip force and really didn't like it but I just had a gun done professionally and it was seriously worth every penny.. PM me and I'll give you the guys info. He had it back to me in two weeks maybe less.
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Lane, thanks very much for the photos and the explanations, I appreciate you taking the time to do that.
Stay safe down there, too.
No problem at all. Anyone that is interested in doing reductions themselves, or sending it out to have it done needs to have as much information as possible.
TXPO
No problem at all. Anyone that is interested in doing reductions themselves, or sending it out to have it done needs to have as much information as possible.
TXPO
Thanks a lot for weighing in!
I'm not sure what brought this thread back to life, but I did end up using epoxy. I didn't go through the back strap, but I don't think it wouldn't have held very long without more material in there.
I ground off those damn finger grooves, took the swell out of the back strap, took a little material off the trigger guard for both my strong hand and other strong hand to get higher on the gun and stippled the back strap, finger area and where my front thumb rest.
It's sure not a professional job, but it still shoots like a Glock and fits in my moderate sized, pudgy fingered hands sooo much better. I'm actually really happy with how it turned out. I learned from my mistakes as I went and I think my next time out it will go much smoother.
Thanks for all the insights and feedback guys!
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