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View Full Version : Time and Effort Involved in Changing a Shellplate for a Dillon 1050


Davejohnson
06-08-14, 07:39
I've narrowed the choice for a re-loader to the Dillon 650 versus the Dillon 1050. Read a lot on the forums and watched many you-tube videos. The only information I can't find are specific details about the legendary time and trouble involved in changing the shell plate on the 1050. I will load 8 calibers, low volume, and hopefully have just one press. Plan on purchasing a fully implemented tool head for each caliber, powder throw and all in order to save time. Assuming I'd like to do the same for the various shell plate sizes I need help with the following questions. What is involved in the changing of a shell plate on the 1050? How long does it take? Can I purchase separate shell plates fully implemented with all component to make the swap out faster? I know that the 650 is almost as good a press and the swap out goes much easier. I would prefer to purchase a 1050 if there was a way to quicken the shell plate swap between primer sizes though. Thanks Gentlemen...
taliv
06-08-14, 20:33
8 calibers, low volume? forget about the 1050. that's not what it was designed for.

to answer your question, it takes me about 20-30 min, but that's because i usually completely clean everything when i'm swapping out.
MarkG
06-08-14, 22:07
The 650 is always the better option as it has a lifetime guarantee that doesn't come with the 1050. High volume production of straight walled pistol cartridges is all the 1050 is good for...
markm
06-09-14, 08:24
8 calibers, low volume? forget about the 1050.

Agreed.
taliv
06-09-14, 10:51
The 650 is always the better option as it has a lifetime guarantee that doesn't come with the 1050. High volume production of straight walled pistol cartridges is all the 1050 is good for...

1050 works well for the 223rem too. the real advantage of the 1050 is the primer pocket swage for processing military brass, which comes in really handy on 223 given the popularity of lake city brass.
markm
06-09-14, 15:30
1050 works well for the 223rem too. the real advantage of the 1050 is the primer pocket swage for processing military brass, which comes in really handy on 223 given the popularity of lake city brass.

I can't comment on the 10 Fitty since I've never tried one.... but I like being a little more personal with my primer pockets/priming procedure.

I mean.. can you tell when you get a loose pocket when you're running a 1050? If you were running all once fired I could see it... but even then you can get a loosie in the batch.
taliv
06-09-14, 15:45
no you can't feel anything about the primer seating. as a result, i am in a habit of inspecting primers before they go into magazines. i usually find the rare ones that go in upside down or sideways or something or are seated slightly high. but i couldn't detect a loose one.

loose primers are always a problem in bolt guns for me because i run them hot. but i don't run 223 hot. i can't recall ever having a primer just fall out of 223. i'm sure it would happen if you scrounge random range brass, but i don't.
markm
06-09-14, 15:53
loose primers are always a problem in bolt guns for me because i run them hot.

Did you see that Hart Case Saver tool for tightening up pockets? People say it works, but it's a little labor intensive.


i can't recall ever having a primer just fall out of 223. i'm sure it would happen if you scrounge random range brass, but i don't.

I had one fall out a few weeks ago. I try not to load brass one last time if it feels too loose, but I pushed this case once too far.
taliv
06-09-14, 15:55
not only saw it but bought one. tried it several times. called them a few times for technical support. all for naught. it did nothing. waste of time and energy. definitely two thumbs down.

edit: happy to sell you mine if you want to try it haha :)
andre3k
06-09-14, 15:57
I have a 1050 dedicated to 9mm and 223. Those are the calibers that I'm most likely to run into crimped primers. Everything else is loaded on the RC or the 650. The feel of the swaging system is such that you wont be able to detect a loose primer pocket but like someone else noted I just inspect prior to boxing everything up for storage. For 8 calibers I would look into both a large and small primer dedicated 650's. That will put you in the ball park price of a 1050. Caliber change times will be minimal because you wont have to fool with the priming system. If you can mount them close enough they can even share a case feeder to save on cost.
Davejohnson
06-09-14, 17:47
Andre3K, thank you for that info... I may just get to 650's. If I got two 1050's would the same hold true... that caliber changes would be easy since I'm not changing the priming system? Or would the 1050 changes still be cumbersome?
markm
06-09-14, 18:21
not only saw it but bought one. tried it several times. called them a few times for technical support. all for naught. it did nothing. waste of time and energy. definitely two thumbs down.

edit: happy to sell you mine if you want to try it haha :)

Let me think about that. :sarcastic:
MarkG
06-09-14, 20:59
1050 works well for the 223rem too. the real advantage of the 1050 is the primer pocket swage for processing military brass, which comes in really handy on 223 given the popularity of lake city brass.

The swagging station barely works for 5.56NATO. You better buy a metric shyt ton of decapping pins because your gonna break em' and bend em' like no ones bidness.