"Look Mom, no ears (charging supports)!!!" - HK VP9 - stippling too!!

[flyfishdave]

HK's patented 'charging supports' work, but provided nothing over the milled grooves for me. I decided to remove them:


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14635293111_40cc8d1fdb_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14638539895_8c720cfebc_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14636389264_8ccd48f69d_b.jpg


It's my understanding that there are plain flat factory inserts that can be used in lieu of the charging supports but are not available yet. I have some 10-8 plain rear sights/Dawson fiber optic fronts incoming but decided to grind the ears down on the slide versus removing them first when the sights arrive. Their size will likely make holding them almost impossible during any grinding operation so just taped up the slide and started grinding.

The factory texturing on the replaceable back strap and grip panels is serviceable but like the P30, I find a little stippling goes a long way. I first tried fitting the P30 panels (already stippled) but they are dimensionally (just a hair) different from the VP9, so fired up the woodburner once again:


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/14636388414_20484e67b3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oinjmo)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14638539135_8473ce3042_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oiykFM)


Note, I didn't stipple the front strap yet. I'd like to try some International Delicious Pie (eating) Association (IDPA) with the VP9 and stippling is only allowed on 'removable' grip sections from what I've been told.

Here's the sad part.........the gun is still NIB and unfired. Hope to get out tomorrow and finally test fire this gun.

Dave

[jdavis6576]

Can you provide more info on the grinding such as tape and tools used? I'd like to do this too but was planning on removing the charging supports so I wouldn't jack up the slide. I agree they would be hard to work with off the slide. I'm thinking of the amateur gunsmith's tool of choice, the Dremel.

[flyfishdave]

1. Blue painters tape or anything similar.
2. Cone shaped bur - should have a straight flat side.
3. Coarse softflex (flexible) disc.
4. 'Scotch-brite' type wheel.
5. scalpel, dental scaler, something with an edge.
6. Magnification - optional but really helps

This is a super easy project to do at home with a Dremel, but I will say that using a bench top electric handpiece makes grinding easier with a constant torque and the smaller handle makes getting into tight spots easy. Fortunately, my day job requires loupes and a nice lab handpiece.

If you want nice looking flattened charging inserts cut even and on two planes, you must grind them on the slide. From what I see, there's no way one can securely hold an insert and grind them, let alone, get them even with the slide. That being said, you don't need a fancy tape job. I literally ripped pieces of blue painter tape and applied. No need to cut a piece on the curve either for the bottom part of the insert. Proper positioning of the bur and disc will not nick that little spot of exposed metal. If you've ever fit a recoil pad to a stock, the best results are obtained when it is final sanded and fit while on the stock.

I didn't take pics of the actual tape setup, but have attached a photo of the 10 second tape job:


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3885/14461773928_734a455aca_b.jpg


Use the cone shaped bur to take the insert down close to the slide/tape. Keep the bur parallel to the slide as you work. Scrape and remove any of the plastic hair and shavings with something sharp so you don't lose sight of how close you're getting. Remember, you have to grind the insert down in two planes to match the slide profile.

Cone shaped bur works best as it angles the handpiece/dremel away from the work: pictured 2nd from left


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/14625615386_06d0059373_o.jpg


Next, use a flexible type sanding disc to get closer to the slide. This will not cut as fast as the carbide so scratching the tape is no big deal. Use a lower RPM and apply pressure to the disc so it bends slightly, while moving across the length of the insert. This will even out the 'flat' of the insert. The disc will also help with the short angled flat near the sight. If you do it right, you will have a nice straight line angle between the two planes.

***don't get too aggressive, trying to get flush with the slide. The inserts thin out as you get close.....probably some hollow area underneath. If you look carefully at my flattened insert, you can see four (4) little rectangles where the insert starts thinning.

Finish with the scotch brite wheel.

Here are some pics of the type of disc I use, the 'bending' action of the disc, and the scotch brite wheel:


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2928/14648599115_346a14ce6c_o.jpg


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14461917690_660b11d6e5_o.jpg


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14668605143_c5d072eddd_o.jpg


Now go grind down your inserts and have fun!

Dave.

[Omega Man]

For those of us without a dremel, i wonder if there are other ways of getting these off? Any ideas?

[bzdog]

1) teeth

although, this being m4c, i must also offer:

2) shoot it till they wear off

[flyfishdave]

For those of us without a dremel, i wonder if there are other ways of getting these off? Any ideas?

1. If your goal is to have them removed completely and do not mind the exposed channel, these inserts are soft enough to be 'pulled' after cutting with a heated blade.

2. If you want the channel filled but don't mind some irregularity and possible show through of any hollow portions of the insert, you can take the same heated SHARP blade and carefully cut off the raised portion. There's a good chance this may not turn out too well and you will then have to go to option 1.

3. If you decide to get a Dremel, I'd recommend getting their flex-shaft attachment: easier to hold for detailed work versus the unit itself.

4. If you like to tinker and/or a tool junkie, try looking for a used electric handpiece on ebay.

5. Ask your dentist if you could have access to his/her lab and tools. You'll be surprised how many dentists are secret gun junkies.

[jdavis6576]

I removed my charging supports as well based on the tutorial above. I got a little too close to the tape a few times and some of the edges on my slide show a worn sheen but nothing down to bare metal. I much prefer the slide with these removed and will replace these with OEM when they arrive. Not perfect, but for what will become a training/range gun after I get another VP9 I definitely can't complain.

[Omega Man]

1. If your goal is to have them removed completely and do not mind the exposed channel, these inserts are soft enough to be 'pulled' after cutting with a heated blade.

2. If you want the channel filled but don't mind some irregularity and possible show through of any hollow portions of the insert, you can take the same heated SHARP blade and carefully cut off the raised portion. There's a good chance this may not turn out too well and you will then have to go to option 1.

3. If you decide to get a Dremel, I'd recommend getting their flex-shaft attachment: easier to hold for detailed work versus the unit itself.

4. If you like to tinker and/or a tool junkie, try looking for a used electric handpiece on ebay.

5. Ask your dentist if you could have access to his/her lab and tools. You'll be surprised how many dentists are secret gun junkies.

These sound good. Thanks!

[gtboy2k]

HK's patented 'charging supports' work, but provided nothing over the milled grooves for me. I decided to remove them:


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14635293111_40cc8d1fdb_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14638539895_8c720cfebc_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14636389264_8ccd48f69d_b.jpg


It's my understanding that there are plain flat factory inserts that can be used in lieu of the charging supports but are not available yet. I have some 10-8 plain rear sights/Dawson fiber optic fronts incoming but decided to grind the ears down on the slide versus removing them first when the sights arrive. Their size will likely make holding them almost impossible during any grinding operation so just taped up the slide and started grinding.

The factory texturing on the replaceable back strap and grip panels is serviceable but like the P30, I find a little stippling goes a long way. I first tried fitting the P30 panels (already stippled) but they are dimensionally (just a hair) different from the VP9, so fired up the woodburner once again:


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/14636388414_20484e67b3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oinjmo)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14638539135_8473ce3042_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oiykFM)


Note, I didn't stipple the front strap yet. I'd like to try some International Delicious Pie (eating) Association (IDPA) with the VP9 and stippling is only allowed on 'removable' grip sections from what I've been told.

Here's the sad part.........the gun is still NIB and unfired. Hope to get out tomorrow and finally test fire this gun.

Dave

Looks sharp!