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View Full Version : How to: Removing a stuck brass case from a sizing die.


ace4059
08-05-14, 01:27
Well, If you reload enough, its bound to happen. You will not properly lube a rifle case and it will become stuck in your sizing die. Its not if, but when. So here is a how to, on the best way to remove the stuck brass. This is fairly simple and only takes about 5 minutes.

Put the vise-grips and pliers up before you ruin the sizing die. You are not going to be able to pull the bass out of the die like that. Also put up the punch. The punch maybe faster, but its a good way to damage the threads inside the die.

Here is a list of tools that you will need. I suggest you purchase the tap, T-handled tap wrench, and bolt before you have a stuck case. The rest of the tools are common and you should have them on hand.

1. crescent wrench
2. needle nose pliers
3. Drill
4. #7 drill bit
5. 1/4 x 20 tpi tap tapered
6. T-handle tap wrench
7. primer pocket Swagger base that removes primer pocket crimp (3/4" socket will work if you do not have a swaggger base)
8.1/4"x20 TPI x 1" bolt (Allen or regular bolt head)
9. Allen wrench or socket to fit the 1" bolt
10. Oil for the tap

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1578.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1578.jpg.html)

Swagger base
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1565.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1565.jpg.html)


Okay, now onto the How To;

Stuck Case. Notice the rim is pulled through the shell holder.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1544.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1544.jpg.html)

Now remove the decapping pin.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1551.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1551.jpg.html)

I use pliers to loosen it and then pull it out of the case mouth.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1552.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1552.jpg.html)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1554.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1554.jpg.html)


Since the decapping pin is removed, use the crescent wrench and remove the sizing die from the press.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1557.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1557.jpg.html)


Now install the die upside down. You will need to tighten the die up so the die will not twist loose when you use the drill.http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1558.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1558.jpg.html)


Drill the primer pocket with the 1/4 drill bit. Do NOT add oil/lube at this time because it can cause the case to spin inside the die, thus preventing you from drilling out the primer pocket.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1566.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1566.jpg.html)


Next add some oil between the case and die.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1569.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1569.jpg.html)

Now use the T-handle wrench and the 1/4" x 20 tpi and thread the inside of the case where you drilled out the primer pocket. Use a tapered Tap because it will be easier to start and use the 20 tpi not the 28 tpi since it is harder to strip out the threads on the 20 tpi when trying to remove the case. Use caution not to break off the tap inside the brass case. Go back and forth when using the tap by loosing and tightening the tap. This will help the tap cut the threads easier.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1570.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1570.jpg.html)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1574.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1574.jpg.html)

Once you have the case threaded, then place the swagger base on top of the case and run the bolt through the top and thread it into the brass case.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1575.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1575.jpg.html)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1576.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1576.jpg.html)

If you do not have a swagger base, Here's a pic of the socket . It works the same way.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1580.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1580.jpg.html)


Now just tighten the bolt where it pulls out the stuck case.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1576.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1576.jpg.html)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/rhino4x4/Stuck%20case/IMG_1577.jpg (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/rhino4x4/media/Stuck%20case/IMG_1577.jpg.html)

Be sure to clean out the brass chips from sizing die and properly lube all your bass cases from here on out. I know this is a long review with lots of pictures, but I want it to be through. Hopefully this will help someone out in the future.
markm
08-05-14, 12:33
Well, If you reload enough, its bound to happen. You will not properly lube a rifle case and it will become stuck in your sizing die. Its not if, but when.

This isn't an attempt to brag, but rather an endorsement of good case lube.... In 20 plus years of loading, I've literally never had a stuck case. Running DCL (Dillon Case Lube) makes it nearly impossible.

I can literally run a bone dry rifle case in my sizing dies and not get it stuck because of the lube transfer.
ace4059
08-05-14, 13:48
I have yet to have one stick in my progressive loader using Dillon Case lube.
It seems like the few I have stuck were all on a single stage press using RCBS case lube with a case pad.
Another thing I learned a few years ago was to never use powdered mica on a small base or full length sizing die. Keep the powdered lube for neck sizing only (for bolt actions). I learned that the hard way once when I ran out of the liquid lube.
Whiskey&beer
08-05-14, 14:39
On my stuck case blunder that case was so fricken wedged tight in there that me nor my buddy could get the expander assembly out without twisting it to shit, so I just considered the die toast! Even if I got the case out there no way I would have used it again. I sized about 250 cases and realized one was left so I just pressed it thinking eh... It's ok and nope - it boofed me! I just chalk it up as a lesson learned and figured I'd post it so someone can get a laugh and not do my oops.
jstone
08-05-14, 15:26
I have never stuck a case in 17 years, and using imperial I can usually run 3 cases without lube after I run one lubed case through the die. If using the imperial dry neck lube I always lube the neck.
Whiskey&beer
08-09-14, 01:47
Oh Ace I forgot to say great tutorial on removing stuck cases! How I can get pretty frustrated and end up taking a sledgehammer to things, I'd probably just move on and get a replacement sizing die.
batman4706
08-09-14, 17:47
I just remove the decapping assembly and use a punch to knock the case out.
AR10TFn
09-26-14, 16:18
Ace4059 - great information, IIRC RCBS sells a kit similar to the items you are using. As for case lube, a friend of mine [a record holder in F-class uses hornady 1 shot exclusively -he tosses the cases in a vibratory cleaner to remove the lube after sizing] I have used Imperial wax for the past 3-4 years, after trying rcbs and pad, one shot -both pump and spray. My stuck case a 5.56 in a RCBS X-die was using spray one shot, but I had more problems with the pump, imop the pump is monkey pee with a bit of lanolin.:p
Iraqgunz
10-02-14, 23:26
I was asked to pass this along by another member. I am not a reloader so I can't GUARANTEE the accuracy. Someone else will surely be able to.


The OP states that the drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a 1/4" drill, which we know will swallow a 1/4 X 20 bolt.

The correct drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a #7 drill, decimal equivalent is .2010
luvmy40
10-03-14, 08:43
I've only ever had .223 cases stick. Probably because I load about 500x more .223 than anything else. This is why I swear by Lee dies. With Lee's full length resizing die all you do is loosen the collet holding the de capping pin and drive the de capping pin with a punch to remove the stuck case. The collet keeps the punch from contacting the threads and the whole process takes only a minute or two.
Delta-3
10-03-14, 09:08
Great tutorial. I've been reloading for over 35 years & only had two cases get stuck ( both 223/5.56 & in two consecutive days!) For all the hassle of clearing the stuck case, I just toss it & buy another die. FWIW, I use Hornady one shot exclusively.
markm
10-03-14, 10:15
Great tutorial. I've been reloading for over 35 years & only had two cases get stuck ( both 223/5.56 & in two consecutive days!) For all the hassle of clearing the stuck case, I just toss it & buy another die. FWIW, I use Hornady one shot exclusively.

A reloader should NEVER be anywhere near a stuck case with .223. I wish I could set you up on my machine for a handful of cases to show you how shitty one shot is compared to good lube and a carbide die....

But even on my regular steel rifle sizing dies.... DCL keeps the cases flowing like the old hot knife through butter.
SlimMan
10-03-14, 12:15
Nice and easy to follow tutorial. I'm sure I'll need it one of these days! Stuff happens.
ace4059
10-03-14, 13:43
I was asked to pass this along by another member. I am not a reloader so I can't GUARANTEE the accuracy. Someone else will surely be able to.


The OP states that the drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a 1/4" drill, which we know will swallow a 1/4 X 20 bolt.

The correct drill size for a 1/4 X 20 tap is a #7 drill, decimal equivalent is .2010

I goofed up and listed it as a 1/4" drill bit. Its not a 1/4" drill bit. If you used a 1/4" bit then it would remove too much metal and you couldnt thread it with the 1/4" tap.

I checked the drill bit I used and it is #3 drill bit. I do not know it that is mislabeled because the machining books state to use a #7 bit for the 1/4-20 tpi tap.
I have another Kobalt brand 1/4-20 tap that was still in the package and includes the drill bit and it's also listed as #3 drill bit.

Once I have more clarification then Ill update the original post. to the correct size drill bit to use.
For now I would just recommend to purchase the tap and drill bit together as a packaged deal so you know you get the correct sized drill bit.
eperk
10-03-14, 18:51
I just remove the decapping assembly and use a punch to knock the case out.

Me too. Done it several times. No problem.
eperk
10-03-14, 18:52
One shot sucks.
ace4059
10-03-14, 19:23
Ok, I've learned something new today. The correct bit to use is a #7. My kit that I bought came with a #3 bit.

Basically the way it was explained to me is you want 75% metal for the threads to cut into and the #7 bit give you the correct 75% as opposed to the #3 bit only give you about 50% metal to thread into.

Also another note is kroil is a penetrating oil so a cutting oil would work better for the tap to thread the brass.
Thanks Frank for the info and bringing this to my attention.

-Ryan.
skullworks
10-05-14, 16:15
This thread reminds me why I like the Dillon Carbide Sizing Dies; if a case gets stuck just screw down the de-priming assembly to the bottom and the case will pop free. ;-)
markm
10-05-14, 18:28
This thread is making me nuts. There's no need to EVER get a case stuck. :suicide:
Ricky2Martin
02-28-20, 06:57
Ace4059 - great information, IIRC RCBS sells a kit similar to the items you are using. As for case lube, a friend of mine [a record holder in F-class uses hornady 1 shot exclusively -he tosses the cases in a vibratory cleaner to remove the lube after sizing] I have used Imperial wax for the past 3-4 years, after trying rcbs and pad, one shot -both pump and spray. My stuck case a 5.56 in a RCBS X-die was using spray one shot, but I had more problems with the portable air pump for car tires (https://autodecorlab.com/best-portable-air-pump-for-car-tires/), imop the pump is monkey pee with a bit of lanolin.:p
These portable air pumps that we have presented today are all top of the line, fully functioning, versatile and above all, portable, so in case you do lose air while driving, you can at least give yourself a fist pump, enough to get you to a garage or home.
markm
02-28-20, 07:33
I have to laugh at myself. I actually got a case stuck since I posted. :p

Non-carbide die, and I rushed to start sizing before the lanolin spread and the alcohol vaped off.
Humpy70
05-03-20, 17:18
I have had this happen maybe three times. Here is what I did:

1. if possible grasp decap pin with vise grips and see if you can remove it.

2. Loosen decap rod and pull expander up against bottom of neck where it will bind and continue to turn until decap rod comes out. The expander will still be inside the case.

3. Insert a smaller rod into top hole ( I cut a little point on this rod and work it around to where it goes in the back of the expander/ it is not threaded) next I use a arbor press or hammer can tap the rod down inside the case and when the case comes out cut the case in half and get your expander back. Expanders are very hard and won't deform or be damaged.