Useful tool - Belted magnum collet resizing die - appears to be the solution

[QuietShootr]

to the swollen case/won't resize enough to chamber problem you get with .300 Win Mag. It resizes the case down to the belt to restore it to a perfect .510 factory dimension. It's a little slow to use, but the results are VERY satisfactory. Expensive, yes, but so is .300 brass.

http://larrywillis.com/diesmall.jpg
http://larrywillis.com/

I have no connection, I'm just a (so far) satisfied customer.

[markm]

Cuz. I've been running this thing for over a year.

We've got over 10 loads in some RWS 300 WM brass. 10 friggin loads!!! Some of the Nosler/Norma brass gives up the primer pocket earlier though...

That die is awesome.

[QuietShootr]

It's the balls. I am using Winchester brass because it's all I could find, but same deal. 500 pieces of brass are going to kill my barrel before the brass is toast, which is new and different for .300 brass.

I use it BEFORE I FL resize, which is not what he advises. What's your sequence, and are you FL or neck sizing?


Cuz. I've been running this thing for over a year.

We've got over 10 loads in some RWS 300 WM brass. 10 friggin loads!!! Some of the Nosler/Norma brass gives up the primer pocket earlier though...

That die is awesome.

[markm]

I Full length size. THEN... I put the L.W. die in and gauge all the brass in the top of the die. I sort off the cases that don't stick and collet squeeze the ones that need it.

Then I toss all of them into tumble off the lube. After that I collet neck size and prime the brass.... and it's ready for the chargemaster.

(the icing on the cake is the gauge on the top of the die. This means you don't have to run EVERY piece through the step. Just those that need it.)

[QuietShootr]

Huh. All my fired brass won't pass the gauge. I have just started doing it as a normal step in the process. If I try to FL size in my Redding Type S without using the collet die first, it shaves brass. FL sizing in RCBS is fine (I have a custom Forster on order so I can work the neck as much as I want and no more). I don't know if I just have a loose chamber or my Redding die is too small.


I Full length size. THEN... I put the L.W. die in and gauge all the brass in the top of the die. I sort off the cases that don't stick and collet squeeze the ones that need it.

Then I toss all of them into tumble off the lube. After that I collet neck size and prime the brass.... and it's ready for the chargemaster.

(the icing on the cake is the gauge on the top of the die. This means you don't have to run EVERY piece through the step. Just those that need it.)

[markm]

Yeah. If you don't size first... NOTHING will pass.

That's weird on the shaving brass thing.... I think I'm using the Redding Type S bushing die... with NO bushing installed. (i can't remember for sure if it's the Type S... but I do have some S dies in the mix)

Last time I did 7mm mag None of the 50 pieces needed the collet. But that was Nosler brass. Each caliber and brass flavor has its own characteristics.

[QuietShootr]

none of mine will pass the gauge even if I FL size them first (which I can't do in the Redding without shaving brass).


Yeah. If you don't size first... NOTHING will pass.

That's weird on the shaving brass thing.... I think I'm using the Redding Type S bushing die... with NO bushing installed. (i can't remember for sure if it's the Type S... but I do have some S dies in the mix)

Last time I did 7mm mag None of the 50 pieces needed the collet. But that was Nosler brass. Each caliber and brass flavor has its own characteristics.

[markm]

WIN brass might be part of it. RWS brass is significantly beefier. We download the powder charge by 1 full grain when we run it.