Surefire Light Upgrade

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

So I’m currently using two older Surefire lights as weaponlights that have incandescent bulbs and I’d like to upgrade them to LED’s. I don’t use the weaponlights often but I’d like to know I have more than 65 lumens in case I have to light something up at the edge of my property or in my home, heaven forbid. I’m currently looking at a couple of options, both would keep the costs right around where I want to be, about $200, as I’m currently putting more priority on ammo for range time and matches.

Option #1:
Gun 1 – Upgrade Surefire M951 with KX4 head and HSP MIL620 Keymod mount
Gun 2 – Upgrade Surefire G2 with KX4 head, use existing offset mount.
Option #2:
Gun 1 – Replace Surefire M951 with Surefire G2X Tactical in Odinworks Keymod Light Mount
Gun 2 – Replace Surefire G2 with Surefire G2X Tactical in existing offset mount.

The G2X lights do have more lumen output compared to the KX4 but I’m not sure that is necessarily a good thing, sometimes more is simple more…not better. This was further reinforced after I watched a video that Travis Haley did regarding his Inforce WML, while a product piece it still brought up some good points. Surefire doesn’t recommend the G2 or G2X to be used as a weaponlight but it’s been done for years without many issues so I’m not really worried about that. 320 lumens versus 120 lumens seems like a no brainer but I’m just not so sure.

What are some of your thoughts and opinions?

[SeriousStudent]

I am a real fan of Gene Malkoff's LED replacements in a Surefire.

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/

I have one in Surefire 870 light, and two others in 6P handhelds that used to have incan bulbs. They are very reliable, and have a great flood for a room or other enclosed space. You can get ones that have more throw.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I have considered the Malkoff Devices drop ins but my understanding is that the M951 lights require modification to make them work. I'd rather avoid this and would like to keep the upgrades same/same between the two rifles.

[Just Prince]

Some have to be modified some don't. I have a 951 with malkoff drop in and all I needed was a beryllium spring washer.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I'll try to give Malkoff a call and see what they have to say. At this point I'm more keen to upgrading the lights that I already have versus replacing them with new ones.

[Outlander Systems]

I'll try to give Malkoff a call and see what they have to say. At this point I'm more keen to upgrading the lights that I already have versus replacing them with new ones.

Replacement may be cheaper in the long run.

You can pick up a P2X for right at $100. It will blow the socks off of the M952.

I tried upgrading the M952 with a P60L, and then a KX4 before selling the Weaponlight.

They are built like tanks, but they are seriously eclipsed, performance-wise, by the newer models of SF's lights.

From my experience, giving up the IR capability of the original Incan bulb wasn't worth the extra lumens. I'd have been better served either keeping the light, without attempting an upgrade, or just replacing it with an M952V.

YMMV

[09fatbob]

EMP may burnout all LED.... food for thought

[Wake27]

EMP may burnout all LED.... food for thought

Really?


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[09fatbob]

Absolutely, send emails to ask all the manufacturers "will your flashlights stand up to an EMP event " see what there answer is .... Some give u a well unknown b/s answer. Surefire was truthful.... Incandescent lights will will stand up have extra bulds on hand too, research Faraday cages for led protection, also how far from center of event u r matters

[Outlander Systems]

EMP may burnout all LED.... food for thought

Wrap aluminum foil around your safe.

[09fatbob]

Incandescent, I run these due to the issue,... I keep my weapons at the ready not locked away... Agree with u and u should also note that any metal cannot come in contact with exposed metal in your safe

[Wake27]

I'm saying thats ridiculous dude. Gotta draw the line somewhere.

[SeriousStudent]

Personally, I would consider the odds of an EMP burst happening, versus the odds of dropping your weapon or having the recoil break the filament in an incan bulb.

If you think an EMP burst is more likely, then rock on with your incan bulbs. I'm comfortable with the benefits of an LED outweighing that particular disadvantage.

[09fatbob]

I'm saying thats ridiculous dude. Gotta draw the line somewhere.
Glad to know u r the one who decides for us, just saying, no harm no foul. I've been an active S W A T 1st line resonper 15 years, and never had my light (surefire, this was long before L E D came out) go out due to recoil or due to being dropped. I have had it blow after running the batteries down and replacing them, but that's it, and can recall that happening 2x at the most

[Vegasshooter]

I'm sorry, but I have to jump in here. I have been on the job for 17 plus years. I have personally had incan bulbs blow from being hot and then dropped. Once on graveyard shift it rolled off the car and hit the deck. Another time was after a lenghty search, went to take said person into custody, in the heat of the moment the light and holder didn't meet, light fell and popped the bulb. I would say the chances of an incan bulb going out due to heat are about 1000x more likely than an EMP. I'm not trying to say it could never happen, I'm just being a realist about what 99.9% would be most likely.

[09fatbob]

Anything can blow after being dropped... I agree with u we r talking weapon mounted ...I used a 4 cell maglite for search or stops and yes they get hot, surefire that is

[09fatbob]

Actually response was started as an, EMP, led won't stand up in that event

[South]

.....

[09fatbob]

Dont think ur a dick ....some people prepare different ways .... Its nice to have good info on what may or may not be a problem...

[JBecker 72]

EMP, lol.

I'll stick with the better performing LED lights that hold up in day to day use and perform way better than incandescent.

[markm]

Keep the incans. Go to SBflashlights and buy some 1 mode Solarforce P60 clones. You can get a complete for like $35... then if you don't like the switch, you can get a surefire clicky for $29 later.

I run some of the stock switches, but a few of them weren't momentary, so I had to hold my nose and buy a few surefires.

[Shao]

My advice: get an 1 cell E series body and put a Malkoff E1 LED bezel on it - way lighter than your other options.

The KX4 head is great but only 120 lumens. The Malkoff drop-ins will work with the Z32 bezel that comes standard on the M951 but the Z32 is a shock isolated bezel. Shock-isolation is only required for incan bulbs. You will actually lose a lot of heatsinking if you use one without modification (IE - copper tape around your Malkoff until it fits snugly in the body and a foam or silicone rubber spacer ring at top) - this is more trouble than it's worth unless you just like the way the Z32 looks. You could drop a Z44 (6P, C2, etc..) bezel on it with the Malkoff and would save a lot of weight and size. If you'd like a Malkoff drop-in but smaller body, buy an E series body, an E2C adapter, then thread your KX4, Z44, or Z32 onto the body. Just make sure you get the right mount. Do NOT just drop in an LED drop in into a Z32 shock-isolated bezel. Your LED module will have improper heatsinking and may die on you prematurely. Another option is to get an E series body and use a Valiant Concepts Malkoff bezel that attaches directly to the body but allows full-size Malkoff drop ins.

I stopped running 2 cell weaponlights after I had a nightmare that I was in a firefight in pitch blackness and my light died on me. I kept fumbling and dropping cells and inserting them in backwards (it was a dream). Also, mismatched cells can cause a kabloom in your battery compartment. Since then, I like to be able to just unscrew the bezel and drop one battery in - something easily accomplished in the dark with minimal training.

FYI: I run 1 cell E series bodies with Malkoff E1s or Valiant concept bezels with M31s on my serious guns and Inforce WMLs on my toys.

[markm]

Also, mismatched cells can cause a kabloom in your battery compartment.

It's nice to have a ZTS battery tester and check your batteries for even juice periodically.

Everyone should have a ZTS... if only to check batteries in your smoke detectors.