View Full Version : Removing Daniel Defense RIS on a 14.5" barrel w/ pinned flash hider...
ColtM4Carbine
09-02-14, 13:39
I recently purchased a complete 14.5" upper with a Daniel Defense RIS installed. I had planned to remove the RIS to sell and install a lighter rail system. I have removed the RIS although I cannot get the barrel nut off. It cannot be removed from the rear due to the barrel being too wide at that point and it cannot be removed from the front because the shaved down FSB is too large. I removed the taper pins on the FSB only to realize that it cannot be removed either because of the pinned flash hider... Does Daniel Defense sell barrel nuts separately? If so I'll just cut it off and buy a new one. If not what can I do?
How are you gonna get the new barrel nut on if you can't get the old one off?
If you want to remove the barrel nut to change the handguard, the only option is to remove the pinned muzzle device. I would leave that up to a professional though.
How are you gonna get the new barrel nut on if you can't get the old one off?
Exactly. You need to either put the rail back together of make plans to have the muzzle device removed.
ColtM4Carbine
09-02-14, 13:46
So basically this is a permanent 14.5" barrel with a DD RIS and pinned flash hider...?
So basically this is a permanent 14.5" barrel with a DD RIS and pinned flash hider...?
Yep, it's the only way to make a 14.5 barrel non-NFA. They can be removed, but are typically unusable thereafter.
ColtM4Carbine
09-02-14, 13:50
Yep, it's the only way to make a 14.5 barrel non-NFA. They can be removed, but are typically unusable thereafter.
I'm not worried about the flash hider, it's just an A2X.. If it was a Battlecomp or something more expensive I wouldn't be so ambitious to have it removed. I would just like to be able to sell the RIS and use the barrel.
Apricotshot
09-02-14, 13:54
Make sure you do your research next time you buy a rifle. Perm attached muzzle devices for the most part suck unless you are absolutely in love with your setup.
I'm not worried about the flash hider, it's just an A2X.. If it was a Battlecomp or something more expensive I wouldn't be so ambitious to have it removed. I would just like to be able to sell the RIS and use the barrel.
Know that you will need to have it repinned to have it legally compliant. I would send it Adco (or the like) to have it removed, handguard/barrel nut installed, and repinned in one setting.
ColtM4Carbine
09-02-14, 13:59
Thanks for the help guys, this was my first pinned flash hider experience so I really didn't know what I was getting into. At least I know now for future reference.
556BlackRifle
09-02-14, 19:54
If done properly, only the head of the pin is welded to the muzzle device. You may be able to grind away the weld and remove the pin. After the pin is removed, the muzzle device can be removed as normal.
If done properly, only the head of the pin is welded to the muzzle device. You may be able to grind away the weld and remove the pin. After the pin is removed, the muzzle device can be removed as normal.
If Daniel Defense built it, they mill in a plug that the weld sits down in.
They way BCM and ADCO and most others do it, they put a tack over the pin right on the surface of the flash hider.
I've removed many with just a file and a 4oz ball peen hammer. File the weld away, then tap on the flash hider until the pin walks out enough to pull it out with a pair of little channel locks. Can be re-installed every time, but the the careful removal is time consuming.
You can use that barrel with a Daniel Defense lite rail. Then you can sell the RIS with the new barrel but from the lite rail.
Quit trying to piss up a rope! Sell the DD upper and build what you want. Preferably with a 16" barrel to avoid this again.
TacticalMark
09-02-14, 20:46
If your not experienced and don't have the proper tools, I would have Rainier Arms or Adco do the work for you. Send them the upper and the new rail.
Isn't the new DD SLiM keymod rail supposed to work with the existing Bolt Up System? If so you could sell the RISII and use the DD keymod rail without having to remove the FSB or flash hider. The existing Bolt up plate may not match the new rail (depending on what color your RISII is) but that wouldn't be much of a concern if it were me.
The new SLiM rail looks like it bolts up to the newer four bolt plate, and may (not well, I'd bet) or may not work with the older six bolt RIS II plate.
The new SLiM rail looks like it bolts up to the newer four bolt plate, and may (not well, I'd bet) or may not work with the older six bolt RIS II plate.
10-4. I re-read the DD SLiM thread and Joe Marler said it's compatible with the DDM4 rail. Not the RISII or Lite rail.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?157170-Finally-here-!-Daniel-Defense-Keymod Post #17
Quit trying to piss up a rope! Sell the DD upper and build what you want. Preferably with a 16" barrel to avoid this again.
This. Exactly this. There are buyers who will adore your current upper, and at the going price for the DDM4 V11LW and BCM KMR-ELW uppers, you're crazy for paying this kind of money to dick around with a pinned muzzle device to end up so close to where you're starting. If you add the cost of doing this (ADCO highly recommended if you do, so price off that + shipping) as a loss to selling your upper as-is and putting that towards a new one, you'll likely be extremely surprised.
10-4. I re-read the DD SLiM thread and Joe Marler said it's compatible with the DDM4 rail. Not the RISII or Lite rail.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?157170-Finally-here-!-Daniel-Defense-Keymod Post #17
Correct, but the barrel nut is the same, at that is the part that is the dilemma. He does not need to reuse the bolt up plate, he just needs to reuse the barrel nut with the new four bolt bolt up plate.
I have already switched an upper with a permed FH from a Lite rail to a RIS II, different bolt up plates, same barrel nut. I now plan on changing to a Lite III on this same upper.
I could be missing something here, but... What does it matter that the barrel nut can be reused? He'd still need to cut the muzzle device off and remove the gas block, since the bolt up plate is located behind the barrel nut (and wouldn't fit over a gas block even if it wasn't).
WTF is wrong with a RIS II??
They're not that heavy. I've been rockin' one since '09, and it's still the best rail out there.
Quit trying to piss up a rope! Sell the DD upper and build what you want.
Personally, this is what I would do. A 14.5" RISII upper is a cool setup and still relatively desirable on the secondary market. Seems like an overall easier route than destroying muzzle devices, and if you're using a good shop like ADCO to do the work, there's going to be a decent cost associated with hacking stuff up to make it like you want.
And really, the only way an RISII feels potentially 'not light enough' is if you're comparing it to the most uber-lightweight stuff available right now. For me- I still love and shoot the hell out of my RISII equipped gun. It's not the absolute lightest, but still a very nice configuration, especially in a 14.5" format.
Just think, we were shooting guns with A.R.M.S SIR rails 15 years ago. :sarcastic:
I googled that A.R.M.S. SIR rail... :fie:
I've used a handful of rails covering a reasonable spectrum of the available profiles, and still like the RIS II the most. I do want to try a Lite Rail III, but I don't see any reason to replace a RIS II Mk18 for one, and the 12.0 (12.43") is too long for my next planned build. I'd be all over an 11" Lite Rail III, though, or a RIS II for that matter.
I could be missing something here, but... What does it matter that the barrel nut can be reused? He'd still need to cut the muzzle device off and remove the gas block, since the bolt up plate is located behind the barrel nut (and wouldn't fit over a gas block even if it wasn't).
That's not how it works. The barrel nut is over the barrel, slid on from the muzzle. The bolt up plate goes over the upper receiver, the barrel is then installed and the barrel nut tightened. Basicly the barrel nut and lock up come from opposite directions
Nevermind. I get what you're saying. You could loosen the barrel nut and pull the barrel to replace the plate.
Jwknutson17
09-04-14, 12:59
Nevermind. I get what you're saying. You could loosen the barrel nut and pull the barrel to replace the plate.
This exactly. As long as the handguard uses the same barrel nut, just pull the barrel, replace the plate, and back together. No need for un-pinning, etc. Also the DD pinned muzzle devices are easy to take off. I use a larger drill bit then the pin. Just drill the top of pin/weld down a little and rotate the muzzle device. The pin has always popped right up for me.
That's not how it works. The barrel nut is over the barrel, slid on from the muzzle. The bolt up plate goes over the upper receiver, the barrel is then installed and the barrel nut tightened. Basicly the barrel nut and lock up come from opposite directions
Thanks for the clarification. And thanks to DD for designing a system that's easy to work with.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.