Laser Zero

[Sparky5019]

Since we are all spun up over the ATPIAL-C...

I searched for a thread on zero distances and preferences with lasers but found nothing.

Do people prefer a DIFFERENT zero distance with their lasers from their primary RDS/BUS; i.e. RDS at 25y, laser at 7/10y? What are the SOP for most people?

Thanks!

Sparky

[Failure2Stop]

300 meters, point of aim/point of impact.
100 meter zero makes it hard to put the laser on target past 200 due to drop, and the realistic limit of NODs/lasers is under 300 meters.
Having the laser offset and lower than the familiar sight-line of normal optics and irons forces re-training anyway, so the difference in zero distance is minimal.
Having the crossover at 300 minimizes the offset issue out to 600, but if you're good, you can offset the laser from the group at 300 by the lateral distance from the bore to the laser emitter. This keeps the trajectory parallel to the laser, eliminating the offset crossover issue, but it really doesn't matter since everything will more than likely be kept under 200 meters anyway.
Having a 300 meter zero makes it easier to have something to hold on, since the ground is almost always available for those 175-275 shots on small targets close to the ground.

During zeroing, use a black matte target, larger than the diameter of the laser at the distance, regardless of what distance you choose. It will make zeroing much easier as it will reduce on-target bloom and allow greater precision and consistency in point of aim.

The easy way is to take a zeroed optic out to 300 (or whatever you decide), and with a buddy, hold the dot of the optic on the point of aim needed for center impacts and adjust the laser to fall onto the point of impact. From there, refine the zero with live-fire using the laser.

[Sparky5019]

Thanks Jack!

This is going on a SBR/CQB rifle. That rifle, though capable, rarely to never gets used beyond 100. Would you still zero it to the same POI as your RDS/BUS?

Thanks!

[ptmccain]

tag in order to follow

[Failure2Stop]

If I was unconcerned with use past 200 I'd go with a 50 or 100 meter zero, with the laser running parallel to trajectory.
Due to the low sight line (I used 1.75 in this, but will be between 1.5 and 2.0 generally), ***assuming that the laser module is placed on the top rail***, zeroing at 50 or 100 will give very similar trajectory, but with an edge to the 100 for refinement.
Now, another approach is to mount the laser on a side (bottom is dumb) rail, however, depending on what module you have, the laser may emit from below the bore plane.
This offers some interesting effect, and can be advantageous in certain instances, however, I find that the difference in application, especially at close range, makes this non-preferential for me.

[GTF425]

200m POA/POI.

I mount my PEQ on the top rail, as far forward as possible, zero on paper at 10m with boresight target, confirm with live fire on modified 25m paper target due to the limitations we have on ranges.

Don't zero it co-witnessed with your irons at 25m or such. The laser travels in a straight line and at 100m+, the horizontal offset will be pretty bad. Using a 200m POA/POI, your offset all the way to 200m will be no more than the height of the laser over bore and within 2.5" to the right (at the muzzle) to less than or equal to an inch from 75m-200m. The 200m zero makes it pretty easy to make hits inside of windows/doors and hit the upper chest of a man out to 250m.

[GTF425]

Also, if you're near Fort Bragg, I'll be home in November-ish and have access to a range that's basically 24/7/365. If you'd like a short class on the PEQ-15 and to have a night shoot, I'm more than willing to help out.

[DocBach]

I generally get a rough zero by pointing my zeroed optic over the designated strike point over the zero target, then align the laser over the center of mass of the target. I confirm with a grouping and make adjustments if needed. Gets me generally where I need to be on target.

[Sparky5019]

If I was unconcerned with use past 200 I'd go with a 50 or 100 meter zero, with the laser running parallel to trajectory.
Due to the low sight line (I used 1.75 in this, but will be between 1.5 and 2.0 generally), ***assuming that the laser module is placed on the top rail***, zeroing at 50 or 100 will give very similar trajectory, but with an edge to the 100 for refinement.
Now, another approach is to mount the laser on a side (bottom is dumb) rail, however, depending on what module you have, the laser may emit from below the bore plane.
This offers some interesting effect, and can be advantageous in certain instances, however, I find that the difference in application, especially at close range, makes this non-preferential for me.

Thank, Jack! Makes sense. I may just have to mess around with it some and see. Do you know of any good articles (similar to your's on 100m zero) out there?

[Sparky5019]

Also, if you're near Fort Bragg, I'll be home in November-ish and have access to a range that's basically 24/7/365. If you'd like a short class on the PEQ-15 and to have a night shoot, I'm more than willing to help out.

Thanks man! I'm in the triad so not near FB in general terms. I may be down in Wagram occasionally over the next few months for some shooting events. If you want I'll let you know and maybe we can meet up. PM me your contact info if you're interested!

Thanks for the cowitness info! I knew they were straight line. That's what can make this process confounding! ;)

[dangrullon87]

300 meters, point of aim/point of impact.
100 meter zero makes it hard to put the laser on target past 200 due to drop, and the realistic limit of NODs/lasers is under 300 meters.
Having the laser offset and lower than the familiar sight-line of normal optics and irons forces re-training anyway, so the difference in zero distance is minimal.
Having the crossover at 300 minimizes the offset issue out to 600, but if you're good, you can offset the laser from the group at 300 by the lateral distance from the bore to the laser emitter. This keeps the trajectory parallel to the laser, eliminating the offset crossover issue, but it really doesn't matter since everything will more than likely be kept under 200 meters anyway.
Having a 300 meter zero makes it easier to have something to hold on, since the ground is almost always available for those 175-275 shots on small targets close to the ground.

During zeroing, use a black matte target, larger than the diameter of the laser at the distance, regardless of what distance you choose. It will make zeroing much easier as it will reduce on-target bloom and allow greater precision and consistency in point of aim.

The easy way is to take a zeroed optic out to 300 (or whatever you decide), and with a buddy, hold the dot of the optic on the point of aim needed for center impacts and adjust the laser to fall onto the point of impact. From there, refine the zero with live-fire using the laser.

We zeroed a DBAL-D2 this weekend using this method, took a bit of work but we got her steady @300 after about 30sh rounds. US Optics SR8 on 8x mag and a good tripod. Patience is key. Have the D2 mounted @ 12 o'clock.