View Full Version : Finish flaking on Colt lower - What can I do?
Well as the title says, the finish on my lower is flaking off around the corners of my lower. I quess I'm not up on the whole finish and anodizing thing, however it is concerning to me as it appears that aluminum is showing through. The rifle hasn't been shot that much, it's not a safe queen by any stretch of the imagination. I'm mainly concerned about the finish integrity. I was wondering if there was anyone that I could send it too for a refinish. My other thought was simply finish the lower with something like gun-kote. Any input is greaty appreciated.
Hoplophile
09-19-06, 21:59
Flaking? Do you have any pics? Anodizing doesn't flake...
Flaking? Do you have any pics? Anodizing doesn't flake...
It does on CMT uppers. :(
Submariner
09-20-06, 06:40
If it is a complete rifle, you have a warranty. That said, they don't sell lowers so if you bought just the lower, how will they know unless you tell them?;)
I was going to post pics, but was afraid you guys would just laugh at me because it's really not that bad. The concern I have is that it seems to be spreading and I was just concerned about the overall finish integrity.
It was bought as a complete rifle, but I sold the upper to fund a mid-length. I guess I will give Colt a call and see what they can do.
My other thought was to refinish with Norrell's. Will this give me the same protection as having the rifle re-anodized?
I was going to post pics, but was afraid you guys would just laugh at me because it's really not that bad.
I promise not to laugh, at least not loud enough that you'll hear me. ;)
Pictures, please!
My other thought was simply finish the lower with something like gun-kote.
My duty weapon is the first AR15 I refinished (with Norrells). The finish was worn heavily in all the usual areas, and I figured it was worth a try at refinishing. The Norrells is tough enough that even though the weapon sees serious daily use, and a decent amount of training, the Norrells areas just don't seem to be phased.
If you are having finish issues, and are interested in long term useage, think about the Norrells. Either that, or just run it like a rented mule until you can't stand to look at it anymore. :)
I promise not to laugh, at least not loud enough that you'll hear me. ;)
Pictures, please!
Nope. I was looking at it some more after work and decided that I'm making a mountain out a mole hill. I couldn't stand to be the butt of some jokes by you guys. :o So I'm going to just leave it alone. There are just some tiny portions around the edge of the lower where it mates against the upper that I can see the shiny aluminum peaking through. It's nothing that's a big deal and I wish that I would have simply asked whether or not there was something to worry about. Overall, the rest of the receiver looks good. So, I've decided that I'm not going to worry about it until and if it get's work. As I was thinking about using Norrell's after seeing Stick's how to, I'm going to give it a shot.
Ryan,
There are two different versions of the Norrells "how to" floating around.
The first is condensed....
http://www.coloradoshooting.org/ar_refinishing.htm
The second is MUCH longer, but goes into a lot of Q&A areas as well. It may be worth looking at if you are bored.
http://www.black-rifles.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=477
If you have any questions after reading either of them, you can always shoot me an email.
I have a lower that began to flake badly-right through the anodizing-within the first 1000 rounds fired. I don't care about the cosmetics of ARs, but this was bad enough I contacted the manufacturer.
Damian,
I've got to agree. As much as looks are cosmetic, if things are seriously wrong, there is a reason, and it begs the question of what else is wrong. If anodizing is coming off in large amounts, I would seriously doubt that the surface was hardened properly either.
LukeMacGillie
09-21-06, 14:03
How does Norell's hold up to a cleaning vat?
My gun that was finished with Duracoat lost the finish around the FCG pin holes and in a couple of other places. I just covered it up with Krylon.
Damian,
I've got to agree. As much as looks are cosmetic, if things are seriously wrong, there is a reason, and it begs the question of what else is wrong. If anodizing is coming off in large amounts, I would seriously doubt that the surface was hardened properly either.
Stick,
Okay, now I'm concerned. It's probably an irrational fear, however, this has me wondering. You've hit the nail on the head regarding what my fears are regarding potential deeper problems. The flaking is mininal (I doubt it would show up in a pictures other than some small shiny spots)...but is any flaking acceptable? This question needs to be viewed in light of the fact that this lower has not been abused in any way, shape or form, is almost new in terms of shooting, and ithe flaking is, in my rather uneducated opinion, in an area that doesn't see a lot of wear, tear, or abuse. Should I just keep shooting it and see if it gets worse?
I guess I better take some pictures to see if it shows up and I will post them if it does. I better get on the horn with Colt as well and see what they say. Assuming there is something deeper going on here, what should I expect in terms of rectifying the situation?
This is one of the most popular lowers today among those that opt to purchase their own "Tier 1" gear. The manufacturer has offered to take care of it, but I'd like to see how "deep" this issue really is first (besides, they'll replace the lower, but I would still have to pay the tax stamp again). This is not a Colt lower. It is, however, made by the company that makes Colt's lowers, albeit for another manufacturer.
http://72.240.5.31/images/img_0764.jpg
You guys should have bought Bushmasters...:D
How does Norell's hold up to a cleaning vat?
My gun that was finished with Duracoat lost the finish around the FCG pin holes and in a couple of other places.
Norrells isn't a Sherwn William paint, it will hold up to long term solvent use, dunk/ soak tanks, heat, and wears much better as well.
Duracoat is made by Sherwin Williams and sold as "Polane T" in their stores. Its a 2 part epoxy.
This is a tough one. Since it's a Colt, I would send it back to them for examination and/or repair. If it was another brand, I'd take care of it myself. However, it would almost be simpler/cheaper to just buy another lower. But if it really bothered me, (and it wasn't a Colt), I'd bead blast the entire lower down to bare metal. Yes, you loose all the hard coat anodizing, but it didn't really seem to be doing it's job anyway. At this point you could alodine coat the fresh, bare aluminum. This is a bath-applied coating used in the aircraft industry for corrosion protection of aluminum parts. When dry it has a golden yellow hue. You can now KG gunkote or Norrells the part with your color of choice. Since you've gone this far, a nice coyote brown finish would make a unique lower.
But since it IS a Colt, I wouldn't mess with it. Your options are to send it back to them for complete repair/replacement, or take it to a good 'smith for touch-up work.
Personally, my opinion is that lowers are inexpensive, though in relation, tax stamps are not. Deal with it, or buy another lower.
It is just another example that even if something is "Tier 1" it is not beyond reproach. In some circles that would read as heresy, but "it is what it is". You pay your money and you take your chances. Now, that doesn't mean that there isn't a difference from manufacturer to manufacturer. That just means that feces occurs. Some companies will step up when a deficiency is detected, some won't.
In my case, the owner did, but it would have cost him $100, and me $200. Why wouldn't he offer to take care of it? Why would I take him up on it? He is a good guy, but let's be realistic. Any intelligent being, knowing that it is an SBR, and considering the end user, would offer to do the same. He's in a win-win. I am in a lose-lose.
Just to be clear, I will continue to purchase my registered lowers from him--I like him, his ideals, and his product. And, as I said, "feces occurs". Understand manufacturing, outsourcing, and customer service. It is all related.:cool:
Heavy Metal
09-24-06, 10:57
You guys should have bought Bushmasters...:D
I did..........and I had to Norell's it to unpurple it. I have also done this with a Gasbuster CH.
And the Norells has held up extremely well. Brass keeper scratches from parts of my web gear fail to scratch the Norell's, the deposits wiped off.
Proper surface prep is the key.
Heavy Metal
09-24-06, 10:58
Personally, my opinion is that lowers are inexpensive, though in relation, tax stamps are not. Deal with it, or buy another lower.
It is just another example that even if something is "Tier 1" it is not beyond reproach. In some circles that would read as heresy, but "it is what it is". You pay your money and you take your chances. Now, that doesn't mean that there isn't a difference from manufacturer to manufacturer. That just means that feces occurs. Some companies will step up when a deficiency is detected, some won't.
In my case, the owner did, but it would have cost him $100, and me $200. Why wouldn't he offer to take care of it? Why would I take him up on it? He is a good guy, but let's be realistic. Any intelligent being, knowing that it is an SBR, and considering the end user, would offer to do the same. He's in a win-win. I am in a lose-lose.
Just to be clear, I will continue to purchase my registered lowers from him--I like him, his ideals, and his product. And, as I said, "feces occurs". Understand manufacturing, outsourcing, and customer service. It is all related.:cool:
In your case, I would consider US Anodizing as an option.
You guys should have bought Bushmasters...:D
I have two newer Bushmasters that are doing it too. However, one works hard and one plays hard, and Ive added enough character of my own to not care.
First -- just call Colt and see what they'll do. Second option is to just get it reanodized. I had Victor at US Anodizing (http://www.usanodizing.com/) redo my Noveske lower because it was a crappy glossy black. i had it redone with the flat milspec hard anodizing and it came back great. price was reasonable too! My only advice is not to strip it and paint the bare aluminium -- the hard anodizing has a purpose.
Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
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