Hardened Chain Link?

[El Cid]

I have a generator for use during power outages that may come during hurricane season. I was at the Home Depot today and the choices in chain link and metal cables were too many to count.

In the event I have to use my generator after a storm, I want to make it difficult to be stolen. I recognize I can't make it theft-proof... But I want to make it a pain in the ass and buy time for neighbors, dogs, me to notice something is awry. Ideally I'd like to make it such an ordeal that the would-be thieves try someone else's home.

Is there a type of cable or chain I should or shouldn't use?

Thanks!

[spr1]

Premium cable type bike lock?

[MorphCross]

Concertina wire threaded through 5' tall chainlink with an access door from the garage leading to the chained in area so you can move the generator I/O.

[pinzgauer]

Is there a type of cable or chain I shouldn't use?


Yep, the kind sold at the big orange box... Even basic bicycle hardened cables are harder to cut than much larger generic link chain sold at hardware stores.

Unless it's hardened, chain is fairly easy to cut. Hardened cables are much more difficult to cut, especially with bolt cutters.

I would be thinking about motorcycle cables with cylinder locks.



Sent from my PRC-104 using phonetics

[Kain]

Chain link isn't hard to defeat in it's normal iteration. A pair of pliers and I can open a chain link fence, even one that is topped with razor wire enough to drive a tank through it. If you are wanting to harden the target using chain link, I would concrete each pole, not just corner posts, but every post and I would go a bit heavy on the concrete as well as going with heavy weight poles, if you are really wanting to get balls out after seating the poles pour more concrete down the posts. For the actual fence I would grab the heaviest gauge I could get my hands on, not the lighter gauge stuff that you see in most residential areas, though the heavier stuff is a little harder to work with, and does weigh a good deal more. I would also bury the chain link a foot below the ground to make it harder for someone like myself to unzip and open. No less than 6 feet in height, but preferably 8 feet in height. Also, chaining the generator down would add another level of security. Also, if you want to add extra I' a dick factor if you want to steal my shit go with galvanized fencing. A bit more durable and doesn't rust, as easily, and has nice almost barb like protrusions that will take small chunks of flesh of the guy climbing it, or going face first into it.

Also, if you don't want to go with razor wire, you can get privacy slates that may make the fence more inconspicuous. Sometimes the best security is not being noticed. Would still chain the generator down.

[El Cid]

Thanks everyone. I may not have been clear at first. I won't be building a fenced in area. The intent is to chain it to an eye bolt sunk in concrete. The hookup for the generator is behind my 6ft wood privacy fence.

[SomeOtherGuy]

Cheap - grade 80 transport chain, thickest you can get, available at HD and other box stores. Not indestructible, but much stronger and harder to cut than lower grade chain. Make sure your padlock is equally up to the task.

Motorcycle chain locks or NYC-rated bicycle locks would also be good options.

Practice OPSEC if you use the generator - minimize your use of lights at night, use blackout curtains if appropriate, and do anything possible to reduce the generator noise. If you replace the generator someday, get the quietest possible model, such as the Hondas intended for RV use.

[MorphCross]

Thanks everyone. I may not have been clear at first. I won't be building a fenced in area. The intent is to chain it to an eye bolt sunk in concrete. The hookup for the generator is behind my 6ft wood privacy fence.

Well if that's the case than get the either anti theft cables (hardened multi strand cables that have a thick rubber coating) or get grade 8 chain with a commercial heavy duty pad lock. Concrete the eyebolt into a recess formed in concrete using sch. 40 pvc. If you have access to a set of commercial bolt cutters test to see if the cutters can get inside the recess. If they can't than the only weakness will be the exposed cable or chain and the padlock. Oh and don't cheap out on concrete, choose something with a relatively high PSI rating. A typical 80# bag will do a little over 1/2 a cubic foot, unless you are working with Maximiser or a similar product.

This all also hinges on the strength of the frame on the generator. If it's thick square stock steel it's going to be a lot harder for a thief to just say "F*** it, i'm cutting through the frame with a steel pipe cutter."

[nimdabew]

I had to cut a lot of bike locks and locks for a job once. The ones that gave us a big time were the U shaped ones with the calendar locks. Bolt cutters have a hard time cutting through those. The multi strand cable locks weren't much of a problem, even the toughened and hardened ones. We were using 5 foot bolt cutters

I would bolt it down in two places with the Kryptonite U shaped locks on hard points attached to omcrete anchors that are sink a foot and a half into the ground with a shed or something built over it.

[steyrman13]

Well if that's the case than get the either anti theft cables (hardened multi strand cables that have a thick rubber coating) or get grade 8 chain with a commercial heavy duty pad lock. Concrete the eyebolt into a recess formed in concrete using sch. 40 pvc. If you have access to a set of commercial bolt cutters test to see if the cutters can get inside the recess. If they can't than the only weakness will be the exposed cable or chain and the padlock. Oh and don't cheap out on concrete, choose something with a relatively high PSI rating. A typical 80# bag will do a little over 1/2 a cubic foot, unless you are working with Maximiser or a similar product.

This all also hinges on the strength of the frame on the generator. If it's thick square stock steel it's going to be a lot harder for a thief to just say "F*** it, i'm cutting through the frame with a steel pipe cutter."

This. A Sawzall will cut through the legs or frame of most portable generators in the matter of 2 seconds or so. If you can run the chain or cable through a space on the block or at least around the engine block where you couldn't pull it over one side or the other it will help. If you put the chain around the block and put the lock where bolt cutters or Sawzall or torch can't reach the lock that is the best. The lock is typically easier to break or cut than the hardened chain. If you want you can recess the eye bolt, put the chain inside a piece of pipe or square tubing heavy wall all the way into the frame of generator and then chain around engine recessed inside with lock recessed in either the block or pope in ground and then bolt cutters can't reach the chain or lock on either end.

You can also do what we did in welding for customers in high crime neighborhoods where people stole AC units and smoked the freon. Build a steel square tube cage that hinged on eye bolt in the concrete with a lock on the side closest to house where it will hinge up to allow you to take it in and out, but then encase it locked down

[El Cid]

Great information everyone - thanks! It hadn't occurred to me to shield the eye bolts in the concrete (or what kind of concrete to use). Much appreciated.

[Dead Man]

Kryptonite has put out some extremely tough to beat locks and lock systems in the last few years. Their New York series comes with insurance (no idea if they would honor that for anything but bicycles, but why not?), and their Fuhgettaboudit-branded locks are basically unmatched for cut resistance.

An angle grinder with a good cutting wheel will make fairly quick work against anything. There is no failproof system, so the best system is a complicated system. Several locks, connected independently, and a dog with a nasty attitude to watch over everything.