Strange .308 Sizing Issues

[Ironman8]

I'm at a loss here and not sure what to do. It's the first time I'm loading for .308, but not my first time to load for rifle cases (loaded plenty of .223). I adjusted the Dillon sizing die down on my Dillon 550 so that the once fired Hornady Match cases will chamber in my bolt action Howa. (Cases weren't fired in my rifle btw)

First problem I encountered was when I noticed that compared to .223, the cases were extremely hard to size (inserting and extracting from size die) and needed much more lube than usual. I shrugged it off and didn't worry about it until the next step.

Second problem came when I wiped off all the case lube and started to go through the load sequence (including de-capping). I had to really crank on the handle to get the sized case back into the die and the same extracting it. With .223, once it's sized, it's smooth through the sizing die without any lube (since I prep separately from loading). Also, I noticed that the sized case would no longer chamber in my rifle after going through on the loading step...I'm assuming because the case was stretched coming out of the die.

So what's the deal? Anyone ever come across this? I'll be calling Dillon in the morning, but hopefully someone here can help as well.

[T2C]

My Dillon RL550B decaps the primer and resizes the brass in the same step. 30-06 & .308 brass require more effort exerted on the press handle to resize than .223.

If you are using Dillon case lube, I have found that it pays to allow the lube to dry before resizing brass. Once dry, the brass will feel a little greasy and it is easier to resize than when the case lube is still wet. There is also less chance of dimpling the case shoulders through hydraulic pressure.

[Ironman8]

Right, what I meant was I was initially adjusting the size die with the decapping pin removed. Once I got it set, I set the decapping pin for the rest of the cases to do everything in one step. I'm also using Dillon case lube and have found that the lube gets sticky when it dries...

[Ironman8]

My Dillon RL550B decaps the primer and resizes the brass in the same step. 30-06 & .308 brass require more effort exerted on the press handle to resize than .223.

If you are using Dillon case lube, I have found that it pays to allow the lube to dry before resizing brass. Once dry, the brass will feel a little greasy and it is easier to resize than when the case lube is still wet. There is also less chance of dimpling the case shoulders through hydraulic pressure.

Well I'll be damned. Called Dillon and they said the same thing as you T2C. I lubed about 10 cases and let it dry for 1-2 minutes and even though it does feel slightly tacky/sticky, those damn cases sized smooth as butter! Thanks again for the response. Turns out I'm a little hard headed sometimes :)

[T2C]

You are welcome.

If the return stroke on your reloader handle gets a little tougher than you think it should. take a piece of brass and smear a little bit of case lube inside the neck. When you run it through the sizing station, it will lube the expander inside the resizing die. It makes a big difference when resizing .30 caliber and larger brass.

If you are going to reload the brass on the same day you resize it, you might want to wipe out the case necks with a piece of dry cloth wrapped around a plastic cleaning rod. That ensures the powder does not stick to the inside of the case neck when you drop powder charges.

I am a little hard headed most of the time, so welcome to the club.:)

[markm]

Odd... I spritz and go right at it. Shoot... I'll do single misc pieces of brass with no lube since my dies are so seasoned with DCL.

Glad it's working for you now though...

[Butchman205]

I second what T2C said...but I use Qtips. I keep a bag of Qtips at my reloading area just to give rifle brass necks a quick wipe prior to dropping powder, so powder won't stick at the neck.

[Ironman8]

How are y'all lubing cases? Powder getting stuck in the case mouth due to lube isn't a regular occurrence with how I lube mine. I lay the cases out in a cookie sheet/foil pan and do my best to make sure they're flat, then spray the lube on them from a 90* angle (or as close as possible) and shake the pan gently to let the lube spread around the body of the cases. (Now) let them sit for a few minutes and start loading. I had one case mouth out of 100 or so this weekend that caught some powder due to lube.

Now if I could only stop this leaky powder funnel/die all would be right in my world :P

[rcoodyar15]

How are y'all lubing cases? Powder getting stuck in the case mouth due to lube isn't a regular occurrence with how I lube mine. I lay the cases out in a cookie sheet/foil pan and do my best to make sure they're flat, then spray the lube on them from a 90* angle (or as close as possible) and shake the pan gently to let the lube spread around the body of the cases. (Now) let them sit for a few minutes and start loading. I had one case mouth out of 100 or so this weekend that caught some powder due to lube.

Now if I could only stop this leaky powder funnel/die all would be right in my world :P

I use imperial sizing wax. a little on my fingers and I can do several cases before needing to get another dab. Then straight into the tumbler for wax removal.

no sticky cases for me.

[markm]

How are y'all lubing cases?

Put them in a tray, hit them with DCL, and size them. Then tumble off the lube.

I don't use an expanderball, so I avoid getting lube in the neck if possible. Some guys intentionally lube the inside of the neck to minimize the expander ball's rape of the brass.

[Ironman8]

Put them in a tray, hit them with DCL, and size them. Then tumble off the lube.

I don't use an expanderball, so I avoid getting lube in the neck if possible. Some guys intentionally lube the inside of the neck to minimize the expander ball's rape of the brass.

I don't use the expander ball either unless I'm loading flat based bullets.

I know you reload a bunch of .308, Mark. Do you have any trouble with the powder die leaking powder on the downstroke of the ram? It's not a speed thing either...doesn't matter how slow I go, it still happens. I've checked just about everything and can't figure it out. It does seem to lessen when the shell plate has all four slots taken. (We're talking a few kernels of powder btw.)

[T2C]

How are y'all lubing cases?

I lay the cases on their sides on a tray, spray them with DCL and walk away and do something else for 5-10 minutes. I apply a small amount of lube inside the case neck of the first brass run through the sizing station with a cotton swab to lube the expander to prevent galling the inside of the case mouth. After sizing, I wipe the brass down with a clean cloth, check the inside of the case neck for lube and wipe it out if necessary, then put the brass in the check/trim pile.

Another note: I never trim to minimum case length indicated in the reloading manuals. I always trim 0.005" longer than minimum. As long as all the cases are close to the same length and they are below maximum suggested length, you should be good to go.

Between 8mm, .308 and 30-06, I load about 6,000 rounds per year and have had good luck with my case prep regimen.

[Marlin 795]

I don't use the expander ball either unless I'm loading flat based bullets.

I know you reload a bunch of .308, Mark. Do you have any trouble with the powder die leaking powder on the downstroke of the ram? It's not a speed thing either...doesn't matter how slow I go, it still happens. I've checked just about everything and can't figure it out. It does seem to lessen when the shell plate has all four slots taken. (We're talking a few kernels of powder btw.)

Powder bridging. I give the powder ample time to funnel in, and then give the press a firm shimmy to try and shake anything else loose. I also found that the lighter ball bearing and spring kit from eBay helped on 223. The Dillon powder measure just seems to hate 4064 for me.

[tcoz]

Imperial sizing wax on the case and Imperial dry neck lube applied with the media in the case necks. Quick, easy, not messy and no stuck cases.