Did I strip it?

[Hellfire]

I just received my MIAD grip and installed it on my N4. I removed the old grip without issue, but when I tried to install the MIAD it was a little difficult to get the hole in the grip to match the hole in the lower with the grip seated correctly, and it was difficult to get the screw to start "cleanly", it seemed to keep cross threading. Any time I felt resistance, I stopped. At no time did I force the screw to turn. Finally got it started cleanly and screwed it in until I met resistance, at this point I stopped and examined the grip. It still had play in it and would move/twist a bit, it was not fully seated on the lower. At this point it took about 1.5 full turns, against resistance to full seat the grip onto the lower, I did not turn further, but it also felt like it had gone as far as it would go. Now the grip is very solid but there is a tiny space between the grip and the lowest area of the lower- right at the trigger guard, and a tiny space between the topmost curve of the backstrap and the lower. Is this normal? Does it sound like I damaged the threads in the lower? Thanks.

[rifleshooter]

I just received my MIAD grip and installed it on my N4. I removed the old grip without issue, but when I tried to install the MIAD it was a little difficult to get the hole in the grip to match the hole in the lower with the grip seated correctly, and it was difficult to get the screw to start "cleanly", it seemed to keep cross threading. Any time I felt resistance, I stopped. At no time did I force the screw to turn. Finally got it started cleanly and screwed it in until I met resistance, at this point I stopped and examined the grip. It still had play in it and would move/twist a bit, it was not fully seated on the lower. At this point it took about 1.5 full turns, against resistance to full seat the grip onto the lower, I did not turn further, but it also felt like it had gone as far as it would go. Now the grip is very solid but there is a tiny space between the grip and the lowest area of the lower- right at the trigger guard, and a tiny space between the topmost curve of the backstrap and the lower. Is this normal? Does it sound like I damaged the threads in the lower? Thanks.

Something sure does not seem correct. Myself I would call Magpul and get their input into this problem.

I would not keep trying to force any more threading attempts.

Sorry your having this problem.

[Severian]

blank

[Hellfire]

Thanks for the replies. I did not force the screw in, but was concerned that once I did get it started and screwed almost all the way in, it did take about 1.5 FIRM turns right at the end to get the grip tight on the rifle.

[a308garand]

Sounds like the new screw is "fatter" than the old screw. Remove it and see if the old screw still works, that will show if you buggered up the threads.
Use a drop or two of oil to put the new screw back in, hopefully things are still good :)

[rifleshooter]

Sounds like the new screw is "fatter" than the old screw. Remove it and see if the old screw still works, that will show if you buggered up the threads.
Use a drop or two of oil to put the new screw back in, hopefully things are still good :)

The tolerances of threads are a deep dark area. Unless one has quality male&female thread gages one is really in the dark as to what the tapper or threader have used in the Mfg. for the products they have bought.

If you look at a copy of the Machinery handbook under threads you will quickly understand what I am posting about.

With many threaders using the rolling forming method they can set the thread Dims under or over. And this is the major way all threads on bolts are done today.

The small threaded holes in many peoples AR parts get little 100% inspection if any after process inspection, also I am betting the hardware shipped with many after market AR parts don't get any inspection except for the size when it arives from a hardware vendor.

Very few bolts are made in the USA today most come from China or Japan. Not implying the Mfgs. in the off shore Compainies don't Mfg. quality parts just pointing out a fact of todays life.:mad:

[Jeffy]

If you're worried about the threads, why not back the screw out, remove the grip and inspect the threads? Then check it by screwing in the new screw without the grip on and see if that works. If it does then you're OK.

Having a slight gap is pretty normal. I ended up sanding mine a little on the arch so it would seat evenly and close the gap a bit more. This was purely cosmetic though.

[Hellfire]

Sounds like the new screw is "fatter" than the old screw. Remove it and see if the old screw still works, that will show if you buggered up the threads.
Use a drop or two of oil to put the new screw back in, hopefully things are still good :)

You were correct...the new screw was just a tiny bit fatter at the start, the old one was slightly tapered. Took the new one out and put the original back in, went together much better. Thanks.


The tolerances of threads are a deep dark area. Unless one has quality male&female thread gages one is really in the dark as to what the tapper or threader have used in the Mfg. for the products they have bought.

If you look at a copy of the Machinery handbook under threads you will quickly understand what I am posting about.

With many threaders using the rolling forming method they can set the thread Dims under or over. And this is the major way all threads on bolts are done today.

The small threaded holes in many peoples AR parts get little 100% inspection if any after process inspection, also I am betting the hardware shipped with many after market AR parts don't get any inspection except for the size when it arives from a hardware vendor.

Very few bolts are made in the USA today most come from China or Japan. Not implying the Mfgs. in the off shore Compainies don't Mfg. quality parts just pointing out a fact of todays life.:mad:
Thanks for the info, that made a lot of sense and the original bolt seems like a better fit so I went back to it. Grip fits better too. Thanks everyone. I learn best by doing, but if things don't go smooth, I always fear the worst. Thanks again.

[tinman44]

did you locktite the screw?

[Hellfire]

did you locktite the screw?

Put a little "blue" on the original before I put it back in.

[agulczynski1]

If I recall, the Magpul instructions specifically mention the use of their own screw. I think the MIAD screw and the standard A2 grip screw are slightly different lengths. I can double check the instructions in the morning. Just a heads up.

[agulczynski1]

Double checked instructions and they advised to use the supplied screw and not the stock screw/lockwasher. The supplied screw comes with locking compound applied at the factory.

[Hellfire]

Double checked instructions and they advised to use the supplied screw and not the stock screw/lockwasher. The supplied screw comes with locking compound applied at the factory.

Yea, blue locktite. The supplied screw was "fatter" and shorter than the original and did not fit as well as the original. I read the instructions and that's why I used that screw to start with, but that particular screw was not a good fit for my lower, YMMV.

[IRONFINS]

Same problem I had. It was a tight fit, but when I finally muscled the grip on, it was rock solid. Don't forget the blue lock-tite is dried on the threads so it makes the screw harder to tighten, but well worth it. Just make sure its lined up and try using a really large regular slotted screwdriver with a thick blade. After the struggle getting mine on, its the only grip I would have.

[spamsammich]

I just installed one of these on a Mega lower, the screw was shorter but the same thread pitch and diameter as the on in my LPK. The threadlock they supply definitely made it fit a little tighter, by not like it would feel if I were making my own threads in the lower. You might not have stripped the threads, but you could have done a little unintentional machining in there, tapping your own threads ;) I'm very pleased with the fit of the MIAD. I'll put another one on my new build when it starts.