View Full Version : Which APEX trigger?
I'm going to order a trigger setup for my M&P tonight... Question is do I go with the DCAEK + Polymer AET ? or go with the new Apex Flat-Faced Forward Set Sear & Trigger Kit? Can't decide between the two, I've been going back and forth. Pistol is my main go to gun for HD, Training, SHTF, EOTWAWKI :)
Oh well...
Ordered the DCAEK and Polymer AET. Excited to get it in and have a better trigger.
It's what I have in my M&P9L, DCAEK and poly trigger, also in my M&P9c
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/409293424.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/409342898.jpg
I think the flat face FSS set up would be more for the M&P45 and Comp Guns.
May swap out and use one in my 9L Grant slicked up for me.
If what I ordered gets it anything close to my old glock 17 stock trigger I'll be mighty happy.
If what I ordered gets it anything close to my old glock 17 stock trigger I'll be mighty happy.
It will exceed the performance of that trigger.
While you can make a Glock trigger "good" you can never replicate the mechanical feel of a sear. The cruciform on the Glock trigger bar will always flex more than a stationary sear assembly such as what you see in the M&P.
Post up when the parts are installed and let us know what you think.
It will exceed the performance of that trigger.
While you can make a Glock trigger "good" you can never replicate the mechanical feel of a sear. The cruciform on the Glock trigger bar will always flex more than a stationary sear assembly such as what you see in the M&P.
Post up when the parts are installed and let us know what you think.
Will do.
Also forgot to add that I got the RAM as well... figured what the hell. Got the armorers block also, to make installation a little easier
RAM doesn't work with newer sear blocks if I'm not mistaken.
One thing that helped my trigger feel tremendously was closing the trigger bar loop to minimize the over travel. It made a huge difference in my opinion. Get it down to just enough engagement without a ton of over travel.
Didn't feel my question warranted a new thread.
What Apex parts do I need to improve the mushy feeling in the M&P trigger. Also, what do I need for a better reset...the trigger on this gun is less than stellar. How do I get it to feel like the whalter ppq?
cutter_spc
12-20-14, 22:01
I've been thinking about one of these kits as well. My M&P 9's trigger is fine right up to just before it breaks, then its really stiff. I don't want a 2 or 3 pound trigger, 4~6 would be good.
watercop08
12-21-14, 08:58
Tagging for interest. My department is rapidly perusing a switch from Sig 229 in .40 to either Gen 4 Glock 17's or MP9's. I would be interested in what parts you guys would get to make them better.
I just got my m&p a week ago. It came to me with a set of warren sights and the APEX poly trigger. Haven't shot it yet, but after some dry fire just the new trigger itself is an improvement over stock. Reset leaves some to be desired, but since I don't shoot with one it doesn't bother me.
The pre travel is still there, but reduced and over travel is very very minimal. With the entire kit you may be able to adjust it to almost nothing.
I asked about other upgrades on mp pistol forum and they all said to shoot it as is and then after extensive shooting add what I wanted as these upgrades alone were already good. I have heard others say first things they did were the sights and trigger as well.
I've found the combination of a DCAEK, a poly AET and (dependent on the age of the gun) either a USB or the newest S&W slide stop to be the best for me. I've handled the forward set trigger, and while it is impressive I don't think I'd be comfortable with it on a defensive weapon unless it was installed in an M&P that also had a thumb safety. The forward set trigger would be ideal in a competition gun, though. Just my opinion...
poly FSS kit, cheapest pricing ive found
http://twobrostactical.com/collections/m-p/products/m-p-trigger-forward-set-sear-polymer-trigger-kit
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/24/8d94cf11ed1a7d0c50cecca73760e9e6.jpg
So I installed everything minus the USB, need to take it over my father in laws to use his vice to drift the sight.
Huge improvement. Getting rid of the stupid hinged trigger alone makes a world of difference. It should feel even smoother/better once I get the USB dropped in there. Installation was simple via YouTube and the trigger bar loop didn't seem to need any adjusting. Didn't use the slightly heaver sear spring that came with the trigger that supposedly compensates for lighter pull that the trigger allows. Seems fine to me and range time, when I get around to it, will determine if I throw the heavier sear spring in there.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/24/e39bac82c26f20d5bbf1f05a60a8f3be.jpg
I bought the steel trigger set up and full kit. The trigger is nice but the reset is so soft I don't like it. I might put in a heavier trigger spring to hopefully give more reset.
I bought the steel trigger set up and full kit. The trigger is nice but the reset is so soft I don't like it. I might put in a heavier trigger spring to hopefully give more reset.
If yours won't take a USB track down one of the newest slide stops that has the "bumps" to give firmer reset. That's what I had to do with my .45c, now reset is almost as firm as my older M&Ps with USBs. Grant usually has them.
If yours won't take a USB track down one of the newest slide stops that has the "bumps" to give firmer reset. That's what I had to do with my .45c, now reset is almost as firm as my older M&Ps with USBs. Grant usually has them.
This.
Mine has the newer slide stop and its definitely way better than the old slide stops. It has both a audible and tacticle reset.
I ordered the RAM and didn't realise it wont work with my pistol, with the re-designed block. My brother has a older M&P though so I'll probably just put it in his gun when he gets his Apex kit.
It's what I have in my M&P9L, DCAEK and poly trigger, also in my M&P9c
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/409293424.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/409342898.jpg
Your 9c still has the factory trigger.....
After watching a few videos, the installation looks straight forward, even adjusting the candy cane or trigger bar loop on the trigger bar. i'm just a little confused about the sear, and if this is only something that is required if you have an earlier model (pre 2010) that has the smaller spring cavity? Apex sight says the new sear must be changed to accommodate the new spring with their kits.
Still trying to get the god damn USB in. Having difficulty loosening the 1/16" set screw. Yes... I tried heating it with my stippling gun. Still wont budge. I actually twisted my 1/16th allen key horribly and broke it trying to turn the little bastard. Any suggestions? I actually put the rear sight on and used blue locktight and it would seem that I had herculean strength. Might be my Allen keys though as they where some cheap off brand from home depot.
I've had difficulty finding a 1/16 key locally. Need to find one that isnt made of Chinese pot metal I suppose.
Your 9c still has the factory trigger.....
After watching a few videos, the installation looks straight forward, even adjusting the candy cane or trigger bar loop on the trigger bar. i'm just a little confused about the sear, and if this is only something that is required if you have an earlier model (pre 2010) that has the smaller spring cavity? Apex sight says the new sear must be changed to accommodate the new spring with their kits.
Yes you need to buy the newer sear housing block.
Still trying to get the god damn USB in. Having difficulty loosening the 1/16" set screw. Yes... I tried heating it with my stippling gun. Still wont budge. I actually twisted my 1/16th allen key horribly and broke it trying to turn the little bastard. Any suggestions? I actually put the rear sight on and used blue locktight and it would seem that I had herculean strength. Might be my Allen keys though as they where some cheap off brand from home depot.
I've had difficulty finding a 1/16 key locally. Need to find one that isnt made of Chinese pot metal I suppose.
Bondhus makes great Allen wrenches. This is what is used in many machine shops. Make sure you get the US made ones
I recently purchased an M&P 9 and am looking to improve the trigger, I used to carry one when I worked for Brinks about 6 years ago, they have improved the stock trigger since then but it still is lacking compared to my 1911. What should I go with to improve it? From reading here and on APEX's website it seems like I would need the DAEK and Aluminum trigger, is there any other little bits and pieces I should buy as well? Basically looking for a crisp clean trigger in the 5 to 6 pound range.
Bondhus makes great Allen wrenches. This is what is used in many machine shops. Make sure you get the US made ones
The GoldGuard/steel ones are a touch pricy, but if one is ponying up for a good set of allen keys, get these. They're worth it.
From what I can tell, only relatively old pistols (older style sear block) worked with the original RAM, and the updated one from S&W actually resolved a lot of that vague reset point that the RAM would too. FWIW among my older M&P's the FSS (Al) with RAM is among my favorite setups because it's the most 1911-like setup I've experienced... but my DCAEK equipped setup mostly doesn't feel as close to my NHC/Baer 1911's because of the hinged trigger action. I guess I should start researching if feeding that one a RAM in addition to an AET is the answer to 'cat's pajama status' without uninstalling a DCAEK already installed on that pistol.
[ETA] Disregard the RAM related comments, as they're wrong. Also, consider any assumptions made about the sear block as dubious, as I was way off on this.
I borrowed a proto 1/4 drive 1/16 Allen socket from my father in law. Should do the trick. Gonna give it a whirl when I get home.
Your 9c still has the factory trigger.....
After watching a few videos, the installation looks straight forward, even adjusting the candy cane or trigger bar loop on the trigger bar. i'm just a little confused about the sear, and if this is only something that is required if you have an earlier model (pre 2010) that has the smaller spring cavity? Apex sight says the new sear must be changed to accommodate the new spring with their kits.
30686
Yes Sir. When I took the original pic the trigger had not been installed.
4# and short reset with the APEX Duty Carry kit.
My Shield 9mm has factory trigger with the APEX Duty Carry kit. I would probably leave
the 9c with factory trigger if I was doing it all over again. May change it back to original again anyway.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/404158266.jpg
Proto socket did the trick, got the USB in. Was a bitch since the moronic gunsmith used RED loctite instead of blue. Had to heat the blazing hell out of it, to get it to budge.
My Shield 9mm has factory trigger with the APEX Duty Carry kit. I would probably leave
the 9c with factory trigger if I was doing it all over again. May change it back to original again anyway.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1321/4777050/9916512/404158266.jpg
Why in gods name would you want to put that stock trigger back in there [emoji12]
The feel of the trigger in the 9c, like a 1911, would feel better in my 9L. I have 3 M&P's, all 3 have APEX duty carry, sear and USB with springs. The 9c is light and shorter reset that the other 2. It being a EDC, I would prefer a little heavier set up and a little longer take up.
The feel of the trigger in the 9c, like a 1911, would feel better in my 9L. I have 3 M&P's, all 3 have APEX duty carry, sear and USB with springs. The 9c is light and shorter reset that the other 2. It being a EDC, I would prefer a little heavier set up and a little longer take up.
But you have the thumb safety, what is your concern exactly?.....I agree, why would you switch back? The duty carry kit is exactly what these pistols need.
Heavier trigger is not a problem with me, the grungy or gritty trigger is.
I carried Sig 226's in DA/SA then a DAK daily for almost 20 years,
so heavy is not bad to me for an EDC. All in what you are comfortable with.
the.batman
12-27-14, 19:11
+1 for the duty/carry in an M&P 45C. Big difference from stock and the trigger breaks at 4.25lbs at the tip of the trigger.
Still trying to get the god damn USB in. Having difficulty loosening the 1/16" set screw. Yes... I tried heating it with my stippling gun. Still wont budge. I actually twisted my 1/16th allen key horribly and broke it trying to turn the little bastard. Any suggestions? I actually put the rear sight on and used blue locktight and it would seem that I had herculean strength. Might be my Allen keys though as they where some cheap off brand from home depot.
I've had difficulty finding a 1/16 key locally. Need to find one that isnt made of Chinese pot metal I suppose.
I just tried to loosen the sight set screw on my factory 40c and it came right off.......not sure why so many people are having issues, unless they used the wrong loctite when swapping sights out.
All of my rear sight screws broke free as a mush instead of the snap/crackle/pop release.
Brandon Gibson did a video and showed a first look at the APEX flat faced trigger in his M&P9L PRO.
He said a review is to come soon. I timed this to start at his showing the APEX trigger,
http://youtu.be/gdPSAoPx3R0?t=6m
Well, thanks to this thread I'll probably wind up with the AET Poly trigger on my already DCAEK equipped 9mm FS pistol. Since they're both thumb safety models, I figure this will be the most apples-apples comparison I can get away with on the thumb safety flavored pistols I have.
My previous post - disregard the RAM comments, I was mistakenly discussing the sear block, since the RAM won't play with the TS models anyway. The reset differential I have in my have everrthing to do with the sear and spring set in them (FSS or DC-AEK), and I suspect once I have the AET trigger on the DCAEK pistol that I'll have a harder time than I already do really differentiating the pull characteristics on the triggers.
RWH - it's useful to hear that I'm not the only one who considers the Shield triggers pretty close to adequate
I agree about the shield's trigger....anything lighter would scare me with a carry weapon, especially without a thumb safety.
Well, thanks to this thread I'll probably wind up with the AET Poly trigger on my already DCAEK equipped 9mm FS pistol. Since they're both thumb safety models, I figure this will be the most apples-apples comparison I can get away with on the thumb safety flavored pistols I have.
My previous post - disregard the RAM comments, I was mistakenly discussing the sear block, since the RAM won't play with the TS models anyway. The reset differential I have in my have everrthing to do with the sear and spring set in them (FSS or DC-AEK), and I suspect once I have the AET trigger on the DCAEK pistol that I'll have a harder time than I already do really differentiating the pull characteristics on the triggers.
RWH - it's useful to hear that I'm not the only one who considers the Shield triggers pretty close to adequate
My KAHR P380 has a smooth 5lb trigger and it is nice. My Shield measures 4lb and 9oz on the average, Lyman digital.
M&P9c averages 4lb 9.7oz APEX Duty Carry and Poly AEK trigger Reset is about 1/4" travel and audible.
Don't have a trigger scale but I'm assuming mine is around 4 pounds. I didn't put in the stiffer sear spring that came with the trigger.
Don't have a trigger scale but I'm assuming mine is around 4 pounds. I didn't put in the stiffer sear spring that came with the trigger.
Sear Spring or Trigger return spring?
My other 2 M&P9 FS and 9L do not have the trigger return spring from the duty carry kit. Trigger is a HIGH 3lb to a low 4lb pull.
I thought Apex recommends changing out the sear spring with new sear?
The sear spring is the one that comes with the duty/carry kit. The trigger itself also comes with a even stiffer one.
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