Reloading setup - can you make this easy for me?

[Eurodriver]

I am completely lost. I want to reload 300BLK to save money. I own 5.56mm and 9mm as well, but those are less important. 300BLK is running me almost $1 a Shh. That's fine in a target gun, but no bueno for a semi auto battle rifle.

I am familiar with the process of reloading, a good friend of mine reloaded for about 10 years but now he's dead. Truthfully, I am just completely overwhelmed at the number of powders, dies, presses, scales, tumblers, etc.

I just want to take fired 300BLK brass, and put a new primer, powder, and bullet it in and repeat. I've read the link at the top of the forum word for word. It's a great jumping off point, but I still have no idea what specific items I need to buy.

At the risk of sounding lazy, can someone just send me a list (or even some links) of exactly what I'd need to buy to reload this? Assume that all I have is some used 300BLK brass, a bench, and the ability to be very thorough and exact.

ETA: This why I made this thread. When I go to Midway - this is my result "There are no results for: "300BLK dies" with selected options. "

[.46caliber]

Hit up Graf's.com, a fantastic reloading site. .300 BLK uses pistol type powders because of the case capacity of the round. Pistol powders in my area can be hard to come by.

Graf's will have the dies.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/23066

You need a tumbler, wet or dry to clean brass. A press, I'm partial to RCBS. Just don't buy a bargain bin.

Manufacturers like RCBS and Hornady produce starter kits that have just about everything you need for a bare minimum setup. Still need a tumbler, trimmer, dies and consumables.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

ETA:

RCBS
http://shop.rcbs.com/Products/Dies-by-Category/Group-D-Bottleneck-Rifle-Cartridges/Full-Length-Die-Set-Group-D-Bottleneck-Rifle-Cartr.aspx
http://shop.rcbs.com/Products/Presses-and-Kits/Single-Stage/Rock-Chucker-174;-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit.aspx

Hornady
http://www.hornady.com/store/Dieset-2-300-AAC-Whisper-.308/
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Classic-Kit-Deluxe/

[waveslayer]

The dies are 300blackout/whisper. As for powders it depends on what kind of loads you want to do. .. like subsonic or supersonic. .. pm me and I will send you whatever info you want on reloading for it.

[mattexass]

Incase you are very visual, as I am, 8541tactical has a great step by step process video series on reloading (note it is a precision rifle series but it can easily be spun up or down depending on your needs). He starts with unfired brass first but goes into once fired later.

Lee dies- http://www.midwayusa.com/product/934234/lee-pacesetter-3-die-set-300-aac-blackout

[Onyx Z]

Supersonic or subs?

Do you have the brass? 5.56 brass can be converted easily, but it is time consuming. 300BLK brass is expensive to buy itself.

For supers:

Bullets: The longer the bullet the better, up to 150gr (https://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=100001264)

Primers: Wolf (https://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=7277&dir=278|284|737) or Tula (Powder Valley)

Powder: Typically a magnum pistol powder. H110 is my preferred powder, but it is hard to find right now. Lil Gun works well also, but it gets hot very fast. I wouldn't use this powder on a battle rifle, but for plinking it's fine. There are other options, but these are the only 300BLK powder I have experience with. W296 is another good option.

Dies I would strongly recommend: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546653/forster-bench-rest-2-die-set-300-aac-blackout?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Reloading data: All of the manufacturers have 300BLK data in their manuals and on their websites now. Google will help you.

[Eurodriver]

Thanks for the replies, but I'm still not tracking on anything.

Are all dies compatible with all presses?

I see this link that .46 posted
http://shop.rcbs.com/Products/Presses-and-Kits/Single-Stage/Rock-Chucker-174;-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit.aspx

It's a kit. Would all I need to start reloading is a set of dies, powder, primers, and bullets?

I already have 1500+ rounds of manufactured 300BLK, and I will be mainly loading subsonic rounds. I'm good with brass.

[Ready.Fire.Aim]

I recommend the RCBS starter kit for tools.

I see Midway discontinued the RCBS kit. Cabela's has them on sale for $329 with a $50 rebate and $5 flat rate shipping.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-...it/1324071.uts


Midway has $20 and $10 coupons on non sale items through Jan 17. Many of the items I picked were on sale
http://www.midwayusa.com/promo/jan15-pickyourdeal-offer

Calipers to measure case overall length (COAL)http://www.midwayusa.com/product/604242/frankford-arsenal-electronic-caliper-6-stainless-steel?cm_vc=ProductFinding

case gauge . Don't get a Wilson, get a Sheridan.
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-1.htm

You will need dies and a shell holder.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/261325/rcbs-ar-series-small-base-2-die-set-with-taper-crimp-300-aac-blackout?cm_vc=ProductFinding
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/797095/rcbs-shellholder-10-17-remington-204-ruger-223-remington?cm_vc=sugv797095

Case lube. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/438512/hornady-one-shot-case-lube-5-oz-aerosol

Extra Case trays: frankford arsenal #2 perfect fit
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124125282/frankford-arsenal-perfect-fit-reloading-tray?cm_vc=ProductFinding

You will want to clean your brass.
Tumbler, media sorter, media (corncobs), polish.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/103614/rcbs-vibratory-case-tumbler-110-volt
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/176956/rcbs-rotary-case-and-media-separator?cm_vc=sugv176956
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124198878/frankford-arsenal-brass-case-polish?cm_vc=sugv2124198878
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124110664/frankford-arsenal-brass-cleaning-media-corn-cob?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Bullet puller for recovering mistakes
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215517/frankford-arsenal-impact-bullet-puller?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Components: cases already formed. Small rifle primers, powder, bullets.
Primer: any small rifle primer
Powder: Accurate 1680 for subsonics. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2183347686/accurate-1680-smokeless-powder?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Bullets: I use 220g Sierra match kings.

It is an addictive hobby, much like NFA. Eventually you will want be wanting
- a chronograph. I recommend ProChrono. USA made for $90. http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/113204/competition-electronics-prochrono-pal-chronograph?gclid=CJOSl6XgjMMCFcFzMgodSjgAzA
- electronic powder dispenser
- progressive press such as a Dillon 650

[Onyx Z]

Thanks for the replies, but I'm still not tracking on anything.

Are all dies compatible with all presses?

I see this link that .46 posted
http://shop.rcbs.com/Products/Presses-and-Kits/Single-Stage/Rock-Chucker-174;-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit.aspx

It's a kit. Would all I need to start reloading is a set of dies, powder, primers, and bullets?

I already have 1500+ rounds of manufactured 300BLK, and I will be mainly loading subsonic rounds. I'm good with brass.

Ah, so you don't have anything yet...

Most dies are compatible with most presses. As long as you stick to the big names like RCBS, Hornady, Lee, Dillon, etc. I have that kit in the link you posted, and it works just fine for what I use it for.

You will also need some calipers, a drop-in headspace guage, and a shell holder. For case lube, I prefer Dillon. It sprays on, so it's a lot cleaner and easier than many of the others.

[Eurodriver]

I recommend the RCBS starter kit for tools. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/646599/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-single-stage-press-master-kit

Calipers to measure case overall length (COAL)http://www.midwayusa.com/product/604242/frankford-arsenal-electronic-caliper-6-stainless-steel?cm_vc=ProductFinding

case gauge . Don't get a Wilson, get a Sheridan.
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-1.htm

You will need dies and a shell holder.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/261325/rcbs-ar-series-small-base-2-die-set-with-taper-crimp-300-aac-blackout?cm_vc=ProductFinding
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/797095/rcbs-shellholder-10-17-remington-204-ruger-223-remington?cm_vc=sugv797095

Case lube. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/438512/hornady-one-shot-case-lube-5-oz-aerosol

Extra Case trays: frankford arsenal #2 perfect fit
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124125282/frankford-arsenal-perfect-fit-reloading-tray?cm_vc=ProductFinding

You will want to clean your brass.
Tumbler, media sorter, media (corncobs), polish.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/103614/rcbs-vibratory-case-tumbler-110-volt
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/176956/rcbs-rotary-case-and-media-separator?cm_vc=sugv176956
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124198878/frankford-arsenal-brass-case-polish?cm_vc=sugv2124198878
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2124110664/frankford-arsenal-brass-cleaning-media-corn-cob?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Bullet puller for recovering mistakes
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215517/frankford-arsenal-impact-bullet-puller?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Components: cases already formed. Small rifle primers, powder, bullets.
Primer: any small rifle powder
Powder: Accurate 1680 for subsonics. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2183347686/accurate-1680-smokeless-powder?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Bullets: I use 220g Sierra match kings.

It is an addictive hobby, much like NFA. Eventually you will want be wanting
- a chronograph
- electronic powder dispenser
- progressive press such as a Dillon 650

Perfect! Thanks! I really, really appreciate the time you took to put that together. Like I said, I understand the process of reloading. I get the concepts. There's just no way of knowing what works with what. I mean, at this stage of the game I don't even know if rifle cases and pistol cases use the same lube or anything. So I appreciate those links. I'll make sure I get everything you listed, and be ready to ask more questions once I get it all laid out in front of me.


Ah, so you don't have anything yet...

Most dies are compatible with most presses. As long as you stick to the big names like RCBS, Hornady, Lee, Dillon, etc. I have that kit in the link you posted, and it works just fine for what I use it for.

You will also need some calipers, a drop-in headspace guage, and a shell holder. For case lube, I prefer Dillon. It sprays on, so it's a lot cleaner and easier than many of the others.

Nope. I own nothing. I'm going to grab the stuff in the links RFA posted, and see where that leaves me. I guess the next step is finding some powder and primers locally because it appears they both require HAZMAT fees to ship?

This will give me a good excuse to shoot a couple hundred rounds of 300BLK. I'll have the cases then.

Also, lastly, I noticed all of my 300BLK cases are dented where the opening is to the bullet (mouth?) Does this get fixed during the normal resizing process of reloading?

[Onyx Z]

Also, lastly, I noticed all of my 300BLK cases are dented where the opening is to the bullet (mouth?) Does this get fixed during the normal resizing process of reloading?

Yes, this will be removed during sizing. The case mouth hits the brass deflector upon ejection.

BTW, you will NEED a chronograph if you are loading subsonic rounds.

[Ready.Fire.Aim]

I see Midway discontinued the RCBS kit. Cabela's has them on sale for $329 with a $50 rebate and $5 flat rate shipping.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts


Midway has $20 and $10 coupons on non sale items through Jan 17. Many of the items I picked were on sale
http://www.midwayusa.com/promo/jan15-pickyourdeal-offer

ProChrono makes a great American made chronograph for $90 . http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/113204/competition-electronics-prochrono-pal-chronograph?gclid=CJOSl6XgjMMCFcFzMgodSjgAzA

When I shot mine I spoke to a lady in Illinois and they repaired it for a small fee.

When is the last time you bought <$100 American electronics, spoke to an American customer service and had it repaired?

[Eurodriver]

That's fantastic. I just looked on YouTube for a few videos and one included the process to cut down 223 brass to 300.

I will be ordering the cutting jig as well, and then I will never run out of brass. $0.25 per round for supersonic seems like a steal!

[Ready.Fire.Aim]

I customize my loads based on rifles. I have 4 different ones in .300Black. AR 12.5" barrel suppressed, AR 8" integrally suppressed, Bolt action with 16" barrel, Encore with 8" barrel shot suppressed.

Per my load notebook, this one was very accurate in an AAC 12.5" barrel AR15 upper with AAC 762SDN6 silencer.

220 grain Sierra Matchking
11.4 grains Accurate 1680
Primer is CCI 400 small rifle
COAL =2.115"

Ten shot group. 1070 fps avg, high was 1104, low was 1038 fps
Nov 16, 2013, 80 deg, light wind.

Use Accurate 1680 in AR15 subsonics. It generates enough gas to cycle the action.

Better powders with less noise can be used in subsonic bolt guns or single shots.

[masan]

if you havent already pulled the trigger on the RCBS kit, Brownells has it on sale for $279:
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-kits/rock-chucker-supreme-master-reloading-kit-prod54059.aspx?avs|Special-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance|Rebate

As said, Accurate 1680 works well for subs. If you are going to hunt for powder locally I would like to throw IMR 4227 out there as well for subs, I use it in my 9" AAC upper, suppressed, with good results.

300blktalk.com has a lot of good stuff for reloading 300blk.

[Eurodriver]

if you havent already pulled the trigger on the RCBS kit, Brownells has it on sale for $279:
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-kits/rock-chucker-supreme-master-reloading-kit-prod54059.aspx?avs|Special-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance|Rebate

As said, Accurate 1680 works well for subs. If you are going to hunt for powder locally I would like to throw IMR 4227 out there as well for subs, I use it in my 9" AAC upper, suppressed, with good results.

300blktalk.com has a lot of good stuff for reloading 300blk.

Sweet! And there is still a rebate!

[Airhasz]

Euro do yourself a favor and buy a reloading manual. Reading it from cover to cover and using it as reference when shopping for everything from press to lube and primers. It has all the info you are trying to find righ now. I started with a manual (like many others I'm sure) and no experience and just followed directions. I run a Hornady single stage so I got hornadys manual, RCBS is great also. The dies and presses intermix between companies also. Everything will make sense, enjoy the read!

[markm]

There's no shortcutting when it comes to centerfire ammo reloading. Not even for 300 USELESS.

If your heart isn't into putting a good amount of effort into making solid ammo, I'd suggest finding a buddy who is into it and splitting costs, or abandoning this silly round and getting back to sanity. :sarcastic:

[Eurodriver]

There's no shortcutting when it comes to centerfire ammo reloading. Not even for 300 USELESS.

If your heart isn't into putting a good amount of effort into making solid ammo, I'd suggest finding a buddy who is into it and splitting costs, or abandoning this silly round and getting back to sanity. :sarcastic:

I've already got like $1,000 just in ammo for 300BLK, plus the upper. Additionally, if I sold all my 300BLK stuff I'd still be stuck with a 30cal suppressor and nothing to put it on!

[themonk]

I think I will get a lot of push back for this statement but I was recently in your same boat with 300 blk, 9mm, 223, & a little 308. I went with a progressive press vs the single stage as I can easily push out 500 9mm an hour.

I understand the that a single stage press is better for precision ammo but I am just shooting steel. In all cases I am just trying to make as much safe ammo in as limited time as I can. All my HD ammo is factory. I reload to shoot and a progressive allows you to do that. The times that I want to make a precision round (308) I just do it one at a time vs the assembly line.

I would also highly recomend that you become a member over at 300blktalk.com as they will be extreamly helpful with recipies and step by steps.


And now I will get lynched.

[125 mph]

I think I will get a lot of push back for this statement but I was recently in your same boat with 300 blk, 9mm, 223, & a little 308. I went with a progressive press vs the single stage as I can easily push out 500 9mm an hour.

I understand the that a single stage press is better for precision ammo but I am just shooting steel. In all cases I am just trying to make as much safe ammo in as limited time as I can. All my HD ammo is factory. I reload to shoot and a progressive allows you to do that. The times that I want to make a precision round (308) I just do it one at a time vs the assembly line.

I would also highly recomend that you become a member over at 300blktalk.com as they will be extreamly helpful with recipies and step by steps.


And now I will get lynched.

Not from me you won't. I have a Dillon 550 and an rcbs single stage. The rcbs just gets loaned out to friends now. I mostly shoot 9 mm and 223, and the minute I used a Dillon there was no going back for me.

I think if you really plan on getting into reloading, outside of magnum rifle rounds maybe, a 550 is the way to go.

[.46caliber]

Not gonna get lynched for that here. Just depends on needs. I will say that an auto dispensing scale does speed up a single stage setup. My father and I reload together and priming, charging and loading go pretty quickly.

If we needed more volume, a progressive would be in order. We just load hunting rounds and extra plinking rounds to supplement our factory ammo consumption.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[SkyLine1]

You need a good go guage for your built cartridges.

http://ballistictools.com/store/reloading-products/sheridan-engineering-300-blk-slotted-gauge

Great primed and annealed brass.
http://ballistictools.com/store/300-blackout-brass/lc-blk-primed-250

Resizing case lube.
http://ballistictools.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=80

Cheap hitek coated 245 gr subs.
http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=204

IMR 4227 is a good super and sub powder.

[Uni-Vibe]

1. One handy thing to have is a Lee decapping die. This is a die that does nothing but hold a pin to decap a fired case. There are times when all you want to do is decap, and this $13 tool will do it. One size fits all except maybe .50 BMG.

2. Primer pocket swager: skip the awful RCBS kit and invest in the Dillon. The CH4D will work but I find it difficult to set up.

3. You will have a case "tumbler" to clean the cases, but very handy is the $35 RCBS case media separator. It looks like a silly gadget that takes up a lot of shelf space, but it will prove its worth.

4. You will eventually need a stuck case removal kit.

5. Consider a hand priming tool. I've flirted with the idea for years but have never j-- yet -- bought one for myself. But I think now it's the next thing on my list.

6. Use "One Shot" case lube according to directions. People that claim it sucks don't strictly follow the directions.

7. Buy a cheap plastic "collander" thing like cooks use to drain pasta. When you wash your cases, throw them in there and shake them; that'll allow the rinse water to drain out. (Do NOT use your wife's unless you want the family to get metal poisoning).

[Eurodriver]

Thanks for the tips coming in guys.

After doing more research I'm going to go with a Dillon 550B. One case, one bullet, one finished cartridge with each pull of the lever.

I understand the process, but again it comes down to compatibility of dies and things like that. I need 300BLK dies but I can use 223 shell holders? Where can I get all 4 dies for the Dillon press? These types of questions are why I made the thread. I can read a book and understand how to load and stuff. I just want to make sure I don't buy dies that won't work or miss out on good deals. The single stage kit is a great deal, but I want volume and not precision.

[themonk]

Again, I am prepared to be lynched.

I would recommend before you make up your mind to take a look at the Hornady Lock & Load AP. For the money its hard to beat. I would also highly recommend reading this write up of different progressive pressed - http://www.comrace.ca/cmfiles/dillonLeeHornadyComparison.pdf. He doesnt compare the 550 to the others as its not a true progressive as you have to manually move the round to the next station.

Hornady makes all their test loads on the presses they sell.

[SkyLine1]

Thanks for the tips coming in guys.

After doing more research I'm going to go with a Dillon 550B. One case, one bullet, one finished cartridge with each pull of the lever.

I understand the process, but again it comes down to compatibility of dies and things like that. I need 300BLK dies but I can use 223 shell holders? Where can I get all 4 dies for the Dillon press? These types of questions are why I made the thread. I can read a book and understand how to load and stuff. I just want to make sure I don't buy dies that won't work or miss out on good deals. The single stage kit is a great deal, but I want volume and not precision.
I load off of a 550b for 300blk.

You need a good 2 die set like the forster bench dies/rcbs dies/redding dies and a Lee FCD (factory crimp die).

DO NOT GET LEE 300BLK DIES....
besides the Lee FCD die. The Lee dies are considered out of spec and have caused issues for some. They are cheap consider that.

The 550b comes with the powder die for station #2 on the press.

Order the 550b set up for 556/223 shell plate.

If your going to load heavy lead projectiles for subs there are a few more steps to take, but with the set up listed above you can load any jacketed .30 caliber projectile suited for 300blk.

[masan]

Euro, if you are going to go with the 550b (great choice!) I would highly reccomend checking out brianenos.com

He is a Dillon vendor and does a lot of great starter packages for the 550b, ensuring you have everything you need.

To answer some of your questions:

You will use the #3 (223) shellholder with #3 pins.

Dillon does not make 300blk dies, you will need to use ones from another brand, i reccomend Redding dies. Your 550b will come with a powder measure die, you just need to order the appropriate powder funnel for inside the die (uses the AK47 funnel for 300blk).

I have ordered from both Dillon directly and from brianenos.com. In either case, if I ever had a question I would call and was always treated well (was pretty neat when I got to talk to Brian himself, ya Im a fanboy). I only recomend going with brianenos.com for your initial purchase because, as I said earlier, he puts together some very nice Dillon starter packs.

Tips:

The roller handle for the Dillon is a godsend, worth the money.

The Strongmount gives you more options on locating the press, also worth the $, especially if your are limited for space.

Buy a spare parts kit, having a replacement piece on hand is a godsend.

I would recomend the Competition Loading DVD Brian put together, it gives good insight into using the Dillon as well as some tips that will make your learning process easier.

Dillon Lube is wonderful, use it.

The only tray I would recomend getting is one to catch finished cartridges. Having a tray for your bullets, your brass, and your Gluten Free Diet Mocha Chai Latte looks neat but are ultimately unnecessary.

[masan]

While I am at it I might as well post some useful links for you.

Here is the 550b starter pack I recommend:

http://www.brianenos.com/store/dillon.ez.550crbasic.html

Because Dillon does not make 300blk dies, I would select .223 (steel, not carbide) as your caliber. You will get the proper shellplate and pins for 300 plus .223 dies that you may be able to use in the future or sell ( if you think you will use the .223 dies then carbide may be a better choice). This will come with the .223 poweder funnel as well, simply add an AK47 funnel to your order (again if loading .223 might be in your future the .223 powder funnel will make caliber conversion easier).

Save yourself some hassel, dont buy the primer pickup tubes or the low primer alert thingy, in fact, don't prime with the press at all. Buy an RCBS or Lee hand primer and a #10 shellholder, you will have much better results with less headaches.

As I said before, extra trays are not needed, spend the $ on a roller handle instead. The strongmount is a personal preference, as is the DVD, but definitely get the lube.

The rest of the options (yes there are a lot) are going to be based on what you need (calipers or a case guage for example)

Finally, a second tool head for the 550b might be a good idea. As I kept mentioning, you may end up loading for more calibers on the 550b in the future (the press is addicting).

[Eurodriver]

Just left a local shop. They had everything I needed for $950 or so with a horns day lock n load press. Included a scale, ultra sonic cleaner, 3 lbs of H110 100 bullets of 208gr amax bullet puller, everything.

The only thing they didn't have was a shell holder and dies. It seemed awfully expensive.

[masan]

the Dillon setup i mentioned will run you $550-600

$950 seems extremely overpriced

The only thing I would add to the Dillon setup would be an electronic scale, lyman makes one for about $50, good way to check what your powder measure is throwing.

[125 mph]

The scale is one thing I wouldn't skimp on. I wouldn't be as happy loading on a single stage, but I could do it. Beam scale or cheap electronic with wandering zero? **** that.

I don't think you need an ultrasonic cleaner. Tumbler is fine.

I got my set up from Brian Enos. He's pretty helpful if you want to talk to someone before making your purchase.

[Uni-Vibe]

Just left a local shop. They had everything I needed for $950 or so with a horns day lock n load press. Included a scale, ultra sonic cleaner, 3 lbs of H110 100 bullets of 208gr amax bullet puller, everything.

The only thing they didn't have was a shell holder and dies. It seemed awfully expensive.


But most all reloading gear you only buy once. Almost all my stuff was bought in the late '70s, still going.

[waveslayer]

I think I will get a lot of push back for this statement but I was recently in your same boat with 300 blk, 9mm, 223, & a little 308. I went with a progressive press vs the single stage as I can easily push out 500 9mm an hour.

I understand the that a single stage press is better for precision ammo but I am just shooting steel. In all cases I am just trying to make as much safe ammo in as limited time as I can. All my HD ammo is factory. I reload to shoot and a progressive allows you to do that. The times that I want to make a precision round (308) I just do it one at a time vs the assembly line.

I would also highly recomend that you become a member over at 300blktalk.com as they will be extreamly helpful with recipies and step by steps.


And now I will get lynched.
I use a 550 for precision reloading, works great, just set it up for single stage, I do all my powder by hand then use the seating dies etc on the 550, including the resizing die. I have had great results, very low SD. Single digits SD.

As for the 300 blackout I use Norma 200 for sub loads and it works great on my 8" barrel...

[Ready.Fire.Aim]

Just left a local shop. They had everything I needed for $950 or so with a horns day lock n load press. Included a scale, ultra sonic cleaner, 3 lbs of H110 100 bullets of 208gr amax bullet puller, everything.

The only thing they didn't have was a shell holder and dies. It seemed awfully expensive.

I would buy all 3lbs of H110 ASAP.
that is a good powder for 300B standard loads and is unavailable nationwide.

[Onyx Z]

I would buy JUST the H110. It is pretty freaking rare these days.

[.46caliber]

The scale is one thing I wouldn't skimp on. I wouldn't be as happy loading on a single stage, but I could do it. Beam scale or cheap electronic with wandering zero? **** that.
.
I single stage load with an RCBS Charge master and am quite happy with the setup. Two Chargemasters would make it faster though.

Euro, you're an idiot if you didn't buy that H110. We can't get it anywhere here. My coworker bought a .300 BO and hasn't even bothered buying dies because he can't find any powder in the area.


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[themonk]

Just left a local shop. They had everything I needed for $950 or so with a horns day lock n load press. Included a scale, ultra sonic cleaner, 3 lbs of H110 100 bullets of 208gr amax bullet puller, everything.

The only thing they didn't have was a shell holder and dies. It seemed awfully expensive.

That does seem expensive but he may be throwing a bunch of bells and whistles you don't need, but it may also include primer and powders which I am not including below.

If you go hornady this is what you would need to start:
L&L - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000PD01NS&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=GSOJKY4NSCAQSCBO

223 shell plate - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD004S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000PD004S&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=6LMG5FRO5LNVPANI

300 blk dies - http://www.forsterproducts.com/catalog.asp?prodid=705489

bullet puller - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001B7ZB4Q&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=KZOBRK7DVSZ3PDUQ

case lube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001NA29U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0001NA29U&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=T3XB4LP6QX5UZG3X

primer flipper - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPLBNA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001OPLBNA&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=VCQPKC4AD2ZVCTOR

tumbler - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MYGLJC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001MYGLJC&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=GSFMYPCMRL6OS7YY

L&L bushings - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD5VM4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000PD5VM4&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=I647V3QPBLZSLSCZ

Powder scale - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002BDOHNA&linkCode=as2&tag=fleetingsurvi-20&linkId=DKQ7U5DVG6LXUHKQ

small rifle primers
300 blackkout brass
Hodgdon H110 for supers
Accurate 1680 for subs
Bullets 110-150 grain supers, 190-250 grain subs

You will also need to pick up a good Reloading manual, but be aware that they don't have a lot of 300 blk info as its a new cartridge.

Cabelas has big sales on the L&L a few time a year. I was able to get mine for $375. Hornady also gives you 500 free bullets for the press and 100 bullets for each die set. I use foster 300 blk dies as at the time thats what AAC recommended. Others here may know of better dies. All my other dies are Hornady.

Like Dillon, you just call and they will send you replacement parts no questions asked. They also have a super knowledgeable tech group that can walk you through any issues you may be having.

Good videos on the L&L:

http://youtu.be/QEt_a8cxS-M

http://youtu.be/xmolNWt1erw

[Stan_TheGunNut]

I pretty much started out loading for 300 Whisper. Check out this thread:

http://nfatalk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1151

And perhaps this one where I went out and worked up a load:

http://nfatalk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1743&highlight=Stan_TheGunNut


With the Dillon (been a while since I reloaded for 300 Blackout), it seems like the powder measure requires a 7.62x39 powder dispenser.

Anyway, hope this helps.

[Eurodriver]

I would buy all 3lbs of H110 ASAP.
that is a good powder for 300B standard loads and is unavailable nationwide.


I single stage load with an RCBS Charge master and am quite happy with the setup. Two Chargemasters would make it faster though.

Euro, you're an idiot if you didn't buy that H110. We can't get it anywhere here. My coworker bought a .300 BO and hasn't even bothered buying dies because he can't find any powder in the area.


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Oh wow.

I'll go back this weekend and pick some up. It was $21/lb and he must have had 5 or 10 on the shelf plus more in the back.

I might go today if I have time.

[Onyx Z]

Oh wow.

I'll go back this weekend and pick some up. It was $21/lb and he must have had 5 or 10 on the shelf plus more in the back.

I might go today if I have time.

Holy moly, $21/lb! It's $30+ around here. I would buy every bit of it.

[texasgunhand]

I bought my rcbs kit from cabelas,like 265 i think. The problem with ordering the kit online is the shipping,if you are close to a cabelas they do put them on sale. Primers you can get at academy,at least here in texas,but the other thing you cant get on sale and you will need is a sturdy bench to mount the press to.
I spent about 45 bucks on wood,had some stuff,but then my wife wanted to stain it and put some poly on it to make it look nice that was another 70 bucks worth of stuff,but you couldnt buy one for that price unless you find something at a garage sale.
Just start piecing it together i been setting up for weeks and still havent made one shell. Take that time to read,watch you tube etc while your buying stuff,building your bench,plus you can space out the expense, the stuffs not cheap but its all metal heavy duty should last a looong time.Its all a bit confusing but by the time you get setup you should have a pretty good idea of whats going on.At least thats what iam thinking.LOL.

[texasgunhand]

Just one other thing, about RCBS coustemer service,when i got my press the handle wouldnt screw in on the right side the threads were full of cutting slag at the top,stuck in there good enough were a pick couldnt get it out, i called them they were like no problem its outa spec.we will ship you the new part out its easy enough to put on.
I was like just give me the thread pitch ill go get a tap and run it down there and done,easy fix,they did but said theres no reason you should have to do that we will ship out the part. They did,and i went out to my shop and dug through my dads old tools and found the right tap.(he was a huge farmer so he had big stuff to work on tractors etc.) ran it down.fixed that fast took longer to dig up the tap.

Now today the part came in. I spoke about the shipping cost on ordering a press online, just that one part iam guess becouse its heavy cost $12 to ship USPS. And the whole kits a lot heaver than that one piece.So even if you find a supreme kit for 280,if the shippings murder you might be better off paying the 350 and buy it now,but the are on sale all the time.

Just fyi the handel thread pitch is 5/8×18.

[Keith E.]

May I suggest calling Dillon Precision? You can start with a press that can be upfitted to progressive at a later date if you choose. I've always had great luck with their products and customer service.

Keith

[.46caliber]

Holy moly, $21/lb! It's $30+ around here. I would buy every bit of it.

Yep. Its a $25-30 round here. That is if it weren't vaporware. Buy it all if you can Euro.

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[LoboTBL]

I do all my rifle reloading single stage on a Lee Classic Press. Actually, I do quite a bit of my pistol caliber loading on it also. It is a rock solid press and I've loaded literally 10k+ rounds with it with no issues with the press. I'm using the Lee 3 die set which came with a factory crimp die.

I started reloading for the 300 Blk a little over a year ago and have loaded 1000's of them. I'll provide a list of the components I've used.

Brass: Mostly Federal and LC military brass. I made the initial cut in the 5.56 brass with a quality hand held tubing cutter. Initially this was because I had one on hand already and hadn't purchased one of those nifty little mini chop saw cutters. I found that it worked well and I've stuck with it but have a permanent callous on the side of my right index finger now just past the first knuckle. Removed crimps with a reamer. (Yes, it was tedious)

Primers: Winchester or CCI primers (depends on what I find more of in stock when I buy them)

Powders: The biggest variable. I've experimented with almost every powder suitable for the 300 Blk. H110, Lil Gun, 296, IMR4227, AA #9, 1680, 5744 & 2400. I haven't tried any of the Vihtavuori or Norma powders nor have I tried the Alliant 300MP yet though I want to as soon as I can find some.
110 and 296 are identical and good choices but very hard to find. Lil Gun, also almost impossible to find. I've gotten very good results with both the 4227 and the #9, especially with lighter bullets (100g Hornady SJ's, 110g HP's and 125g SP's and BT's) 1680 and 5744 seems to work better with heavier bullets. 2400, I just started experimenting with after getting some data from Duane at Alliant.
All of my loads have been loaded to supersonic velocities. I'm not shooting through a can yet, so don't see the point in subs.

Bullets: Hornady 100g SJ, 125g and 150g SST, 168g BTHP; Sierra 110g HP and 125g SP; Speer 110g SP; and 147g FMJ from Brassman.

All of these are being fired from an 8.5" barrel.

Hope this info helps the OP or anyone else who is interested.