Building a range, some advice please

[300Blackout]

Dozer showing up in 10 days. I think I know what I want done, but I am open to suggestions.

I have enough land that I can put in what I want, provided I can find enough flat ground. Here is what I have planned

A 25 yard wide by 25 Yard deep "bay" (when I say bay I mean it will be surrounded by earthen berms.) This will be for pistol or tactical rifle on paper or and/or steel.
A 100 yard long bay for tactical rifle/pistol, shooting steel and paper from 100 all the way up to short range for pistol/rifle on paper.
A long range course that has 1/2" AR 500 circles at various ranges out to 800 yards (Maybe farther). I am limited on my placement due to terrain changes and don't have the money to literally "move mountains" of dirt. So I will settle for some odd ranges. like 235 yard 460, etc. You get the idea. I want to put in a bench under a cover and a mound of dirt for prone shooting.

Anyway. I have thought this through, but, I am always saying, "Man I wish I would have done 'this' or 'that'" after the fact.

So, tell me please.

What are some cool or unusual things you have seen on ranges that you would implement if you were building one.
What are some of the most useful things on a tactical, pistol or long range course.
What are some common range ideas that are not really worth the money.

This range will not be open to the public, but, clients who hunt the ranch will likely use it. I am a million miles from anything, but have considered my neighbors and their safety (specifically their deer blind locations). I believe the mapping out of the range has taken safety as priority #1. Everything else is secondary.

I have a budget, like anyone, and will start on the 100 yard bay as that is a lot of dirt to move. I am afraid this is going to be 70% of the work alone.

I have Steel targets. 1/2 AR 500 circles from 6" to 16" and 3 IPSC silhouettes to start with. Will buy more circles for the long range course once I start shooting it and decide what I think is reasonable.

Any thoughts, criticism or ideas are welcome.

Thanks.

[MBtech]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?162840-Practice-Range-at-Home-What-would-you-want

Few ideas here on this thread

[GH41]

You say your a million miles from anything but are thinking about your neighbors hunting blinds. It sounds like the million mile buffer doesn't belong to you. I know you don't want to hear this but I would get a blessing from the local authorities before spending a ton of $$$. We had a local range shut down by a guy that lived three miles away from it.

[ajacobs]

Best thing I ever did is sink PVC sections 24 inches long flush with the ground. Some big enough for 2 by 4's others for grade stakes. I can drop boards in the holes to support targets or target boards between them. I can reconfigure the range and replace them if they get shot up without digging.

[Mr blasty]

I'd definitely make sure to properly factor in drainage. I have a couple friends who belong to private gun club ranges who would have to wait all spring to go shooting due to water log.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

[300Blackout]

Best thing I ever did is sink PVC sections 24 inches long flush with the ground. Some big enough for 2 by 4's others for grade stakes. I can drop boards in the holes to support targets or target boards between them. I can reconfigure the range and replace them if they get shot up without digging.
Good idea. I was thinking of RR Timbers with 1x2 or 2x4 metal stake pockets attached to them to slip in 1x2 or 2x4 for target stands. It's so rocky out there digging a hole would be difficult!

As for drainage, it's a good idea. Not a huge factor here because of fractured rock and the fact that it hardly ever rains! But I will check the grade to be sure.

[300Blackout]

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?162840-Practice-Range-at-Home-What-would-you-want

Few ideas here on this thread
Thanks. They mention Hickock's range.


I have always liked Hickok45's range setup.

Where are some photos?

[MBtech]

Thanks. They mention Hickock's range. Where are some photos?

They have a Youtube channel, also Google Images.

[Microadventure]

you would think someone somewhere would make those electric popup targets like they had in basic training.

I would like to have surveyed in rangefinder targets. so you can compare your optical rangefinder to known accurate measurements

[rjacobs]

When I was mapping out a range on some property I have access to the guy that was going to do the work came out and helped me lay some stuff out and had much better idea's than I had in a completely different piece of the property.

What we decided on was to build our pistol range 110 yards wide and 35 yards deep. This would allow us to use it as a 100 yard rifle range one way or a pistol range another way. Dual use.

We didnt end up building the pistol/100 yard rifle range due to money issues and the owner's and I couldnt come up with an agreement(they wanted me to pay 100%, but they were obviously going to use it quite a bit). I got frustrated that they wouldnt put in anything and we decided against building the range.

We still ended up building a long range steel range because it wasnt any dozer work due to the terrain. We cut some trees out of one thin line to create a few shooting lanes and we have steel at 100, 200, 400 and 600. I could probably get out to 800, but it would require A LOT of tree removal and I have access to another piece of property I can stretch to almost 1000 on depending on time of year(I can shoot until the corn gets to high and then after its harvested).

[300Blackout]

What we decided on was to build our pistol range 110 yards wide and 35 yards deep. This would allow us to use it as a 100 yard rifle range one way or a pistol range another way. Dual use.


Using the rifle range as a pistol range also appeals to me. Depending on how quickly my budget gets exhausted, I may have to. After all, it's a big dirt wall you need to shoot into which I will already have built. I want a covered area with tables on my pistol range, which I guess could be done off to one side of the rifle range. Combining the two is a good idea and it is part of "Plan B" when the dozer takes longer than anticipated to build the rifle range.

The long range course should take very little work, as it stands because of the terrain. I need maybe 2 hours dozer work to clear some trees (junipers) and clean out an old road.

[rjacobs]

Using the rifle range as a pistol range also appeals to me. Depending on how quickly my budget gets exhausted, I may have to. After all, it's a big dirt wall you need to shoot into which I will already have built. I want a covered area with tables on my pistol range, which I guess could be done off to one side of the rifle range. Combining the two is a good idea and it is part of "Plan B" when the dozer takes longer than anticipated to build the rifle range.

The long range course should take very little work, as it stands because of the terrain. I need maybe 2 hours dozer work to clear some trees (junipers) and clean out an old road.

Our plan was going to take 3 days and run about 3500 in dozer work plus 500 to get dozer delivered and picked up). We were basically cutting into a hill to a depth of 8' and pushing that dirt down the hill to level it out. There was enough dirt to extend and level the hill side to make it about 110 yards deep. Then we were going to rob dirt from another area to build the rifle berm 8' tall(12' wide at the base with a steep face). So one side would be open and 3 sides would be 8' berms. They were going to ever so slightly angle the base so water would run off and down the original hill otherwise we were going to french drain at the base of every berm(about 2k bucks worth of drain pipe, plastic-ish sheeting and rock).

I would have your dozer guy come out and look at what you are going to be wanting to do as he may have suggestions. Where I originally wanted to build was a valley and we were going to basically cut into the valley and push to make the back stop, but he said that was 2x as much work so we drove around and found a much better location for what we wanted to do that would take a lot less work.

Also dont forget your ground cover/erosion control on your berms. We looked at rock for the ground cover, but it was so ****ing expensive for how much we needed. We ended up deciding to do spray grass as its cheap and provides VERY good erosion control. The rock was going to cost something in the 2k range, but spray grass was only around 500 for everything if you rent the machine and do it yourself(its not hard, just need a water source). The spray grass will stick to your berm walls as well and really shore them up well.

[Failure2Stop]

I have some experience with designing, constructing, and utilizing ranges.

Important factors commonly overlooked:

1: Drainage and stagnant water.
Better ranges ensure that the shooting area is slightly domed so that the range does not become a tiny shallow pond.
Excavating fill dirt to create the berm in close proximity to the created berm will provide you with ample nuisance insects and critters during warm months. Plan accordingly.

2: Berm height.
20 foot berms are a standard back-stop berm, with 8 foot side berms.
Rain will erode your berm, and shooting into the berm will loosen the dirt and allow erosion, plan to need to replace dirt after a couple months until it packs.
Ballistic blocks placed behind high-frequency targets will significantly reduce back-stop erosion and ricochet concerns. They are not cheap.

3: Efficiency of lay-out.
A range that will enable multiple use is easier, faster, and safer than multiple ranges that are specialized.
A 50 meter (L) by 25 meter (W) bay can do just about anything, simply by varying the firing point distance behind the bay. You don't need 600 meters of berm to safely take a 600 meter shot. Properly elevating the firing points by use of platforms or earth will reduce near ricochet concerns. Keep in mind that the position will need to give enough room for a shooter and a spotter that will be beside or right behind the shooter.
If you want to shoot multiple distances from a single point, or multiple points, small U-berms can be created for those individual targets.

4: Land Survey
Check topography and try to have a natural feature that will serve as a long-range backstop in the event of a high miss or top of berm ricochet.

5: Protect the firing position.
Laying down synthetic grass/turf will prevent shooting out of mud-holes a few months down the line.
It also keeps your shooting mat from turning into a muddy mess.

6: Mobility and modularity.
If you like bench shooting, make the lightest, easiest to move bench that a single person can reposition. Same for barricades and range furniture.

7: Accessibility
You will want to be able to drive to the target line and all shooting positions, and walking from the same should be direct and not require waders.
Ensure that the ground around your long range positions will support a few vehicles.

8: Targets
Steel steel steel steel.
Varying types of steel targets are the most useful and economical approach for anything past 100 meters, and many things past 50.
There are a few decent companies out there making decent steel targets. Remember the golden rule with steel distance: don't be too close. For close range stuff, manage ricochet and spall. Only high quality steel with very good spall control can be consistently safely shot closer than 100 yards with rifle, 10 for pistol. Shoot closer at your own risk.
Steel needs a good support structure, that is constructed to avoid spall from cutting into it. There are some easy ways to accomplish this.
Buy or make good target stands for cardboard/paper. I recommend that type that allows different stick positions to accommodate both IPSC/IDPA width targets (18") and common backers (24").
Buy some sandbags. They come in use for spall control and to anchor targets on windy days.

9: Target Shed.
A simple shed on the range to house tools and supplies is invaluable.
Steel repair tools, extra sticks, extra backers, paint, pasties, etc always come in handy. Doesn't need to be huge. Should be lockable. Great place for a dedicated trauma kit.

10: Safe Area.
Give yourself a place at every shooting position that you can safely work on a gun.
Needs to have a safe back-stop. Not essential, but highly appreciated when a gun locks-up.

11: Flag.
Have a method of indicating that the range is hot to anyone that might enter the range. Usually accomplished with a red flag (red light at night).

12: Orientation.
In the northern hemisphere it is a good idea to have the range facing generally north. Prevents sun issues.

13: Target placement
Try to keep targets near the berm to prevent over-shooting the berm. This is one reason that a 25 meter wide bay is good; you can get a full 180 on targets without angle becoming problematic.

[300Blackout]

Jack,

What a great comprehensive range planning list.

1: Drainage and stagnant water.
It doesn't rain on my ranch. I am convinced of this fact! In case it ever does rain, We have a lot of fractured rock with gypsum and you couldn't get this land to hold water if you wanted to. But, this is a great reference for any one else looking to do what I want to do.

2: Berm height.
I am not certain I can get 20'. I am not certain I can afford 20'! After all 20 probably cost 4x what 8' would cost. But I am going to try. Like I said, safety is priority #1. So, I may have to have a serious sit down with myself on planning this out.

3: Efficiency of lay-out.
A range that will enable multiple use is easier, faster, and safer than multiple ranges that are specialized.
I think you hit the nail on the head here. I have been trying to justify separate ranges for different people to use at the same time. But seriously, it's a privately owned range, for friends and family only. (Ain't got many of either!) I believe I will follow your advice and dedicate more funds to one big bay for all rifle, pistol and maybe (probably!) 3 gun, and make it all work together. This way I can dedicate the funds to a 20' backstop.

My long range gong plans are pretty solid on safety with natural backstops and primary backstops of old rotten 4x4x8 bales of hay that I will stack up around the gongs.

4: Land Survey
Check topography and try to have a natural feature that will serve as a long-range backstop in the event of a high miss or top of berm ricochet.
Done.

5: Protect the firing position.
Laying down synthetic grass/turf
That's a good idea. I have gravel pits on the ranch and the ability to haul it to the site. I plan on making small gravel mounds to shoot from. Pond liner makes a fantastic mat to lay your shooting mat on. You can roll it up and take it to the next stop.

6: Mobility and modularity.
If you like bench shooting, make the lightest, easiest to move bench that a single person can reposition. Same for barricades and range furniture.

Good idea. My setup is that the long range Gongs lie 180 degrees from each other. In other words, 100, 250, 400 lie shooting to the east, turn around 180 degrees and shoot the 800 and maybe 1000 I think, not sure I can make the 1000 work. Dozer work on this range is minimal and will take 4 hours tops to finish.


7: Accessibility
You will want to be able to drive to the target line and all shooting positions, and walking from the same should be direct and not require waders.
Ensure that the ground around your long range positions will support a few vehicles.

In the plans. Done.

8: Targets
Steel steel steel steel.
All my steel is 1/2 AR 500 circles (have one each of 6, 8, 10, 12 & 16" circles) and three IPSC 12x24 silhouettes. I will buy more when I learn more about what really comes in handy. I know I will want/need more circles, I just don't know why or where I will put them. No need in buying too many until I know what I really want or need.

I have about 1000 Sinterfire rounds in .45, .223 and .308 for closer work on steel. Not the most accurate out of my gun, but hey, it's for close work.

9: Target Shed.
A simple shed on the range to house tools and supplies is invaluable.
I have a 20' shipping container that I am going to drag over there for this use. Store steel, Steel stands, cardboard for targets, paper targets, benches, chairs, barricades, etc.

10: Safe Area.
Give yourself a place at every shooting position that you can safely work on a gun.
Needs to have a safe back-stop. Not essential, but highly appreciated when a gun locks-up.
Interesting idea. Had not really thought about that.

11: Flag.
Have a method of indicating that the range is hot to anyone that might enter the range. Usually accomplished with a red flag (red light at night).

I was going to use orange cones and a painted plywood sign that says "Range in Use!" or something to that effect. It is likely that the road into the ranch may run through the 100 yard shooting line. Which would be behind the shooter, so it would be safe, but still good idea to warn anyone coming in.

12: Orientation.
In the northern hemisphere it is a good idea to have the range facing generally north. Prevents sun issues.


I have a 48,000lb grain bin that lies generally to the North of where I want to build this range. I have tried to work around it, but I may have to face it East or West. I know it isn't ideal, I may cant it to the NW or NE. It could easily get punctured and I wouldn't know it. I could loose a lot of feed if water gets into the bin!

13: Target placement
Try to keep targets near the berm to prevent over-shooting the berm. This is one reason that a 25 meter wide bay is good; you can get a full 180 on targets without angle becoming problematic. Good idea.

Thanks again Jack, this has given me some ideas. I think I will abandon the multiple range concept and build one solid range that can be used for rifle pistol shotgun/3 gun and then one for long range gong work (these are separated by 150 yards or so. Will construct it so that both can be used simultaneously.

Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I am sure others will benefit from this. Even if they just pick up one good idea, it was worth it.

[300Blackout]

Well, it's done. Over budget by about 100% but safety concerns drove that cost up. Could have gotten by with a lot less, but it isn't worth it is someone gets hurt or property damaged.

Here is the "Before" shot. I didn't like the idea of the barn and feed bin being there (just a hay barn, no biggie) but the feed bin is kind of important. More on that later. Safety for everyone was paramount, especially my neighbors since I have no control over where they go on their land. I control 1 mile downrange, and 1/2 mile wide, so it was the obvious choice.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_7775_zps2e2f9840.png

For most people this would have been sufficient. A little backdrop to stop bullets and a side berm to protect barn and equipment. Well, I ain't most people. This is just the first days work after clearing trees and setting up how the berms will be laid out.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_7725_zps8957e223.png

[300Blackout]

"Before" shot from the 450 yard shooting line.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_7774_zps1c80bf96.png

[300Blackout]

Here is the final product after 4 days of pushing dirt around.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_7781_zps9a01e0ae.jpg

35 yards long then goes into a "Z" shape to protect the barn and equipment. About 90 yards in length.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_7784_zps77702355.png

[300Blackout]

"After" shot from the 450 yard shooting line. Please don't shoot my feed bin! (Or if you do, just tell me so I can fix it). Welding is cheap. 12 tons of feed isn't. Feed and rain water don't do well together.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r682/Buffalobwana/IMG_8638_zps285cc751.jpg

[300Blackout]

I have another berm that is built to the left of the feed bin. From on top of that berm you can engage targets from 100 out to 600 yards.

I am going to lay erosion control matting over the berms until nature takes it's course and weeds and grass take root and prevent erosion. The main shooting surface is not the one facing the barn, it's the one I am facing when taking the pictures. I have a tractor with a front end loader so I can freshen up and areas eroded by a lot of gunfire. Plus, the main berm is "dozer width" wide at the top plus one foot on either side, so I think that makes it 12 or 14' wide on top. It would take a lot of erosion to loose any height on the main berm.

Thank you to everyone who had advice. The final product is different because of some of your ideas, and suggestions.

I am not done yet, I still will move the 20' shipping container to the site to store targets, tape, spray paint, steel, supplies, etc. but the dozer work is done, which is the big part.

[chastain11]

Outstanding! In my opinion its pretty well thought out. I am trying to acquire enough land to build my own range. Right now my goal is for a "smaller" set up and worry about long-range later. Well done! Looks like somewhere in AZ.

[300Blackout]

Outstanding! In my opinion its pretty well thought out. I am trying to acquire enough land to build my own range. Right now my goal is for a "smaller" set up and worry about long-range later. Well done! Looks like somewhere in AZ.
Northwest Texas. Sometimes it seems like the Arizona desert though.