View Full Version : Inforce WML
My first Inforce light arrived today. I attached to the upper 1913 rail on mu BCM KMR. clamped right, screwed finger tight to stop and it slides back and forth, front to back. My TLR-1's don't do this and never read where a WML did it either.
Any ideas or solutions from our trained, experienced members?
Thanks
Randy
My WML doesn't have that issue. I'd contact Inforce and let them know something isn't right.
My first Inforce light arrived today. I attached to the upper 1913 rail on mu BCM KMR. clamped right, screwed finger tight to stop and it slides back and forth, front to back. My TLR-1's don't do this and never read where a WML did it either.
Any ideas or solutions from our trained, experienced members?
Thanks
Randy
Try attaching your WML to your upper receiver's Pic rail just to see if the rail dimensions are different, I bet it will not move on it.
Mine would moved very slightly back and forth on a HSP mount. I changed to a KMR and new KM HSP mount and it no longer moves. Probably just tolerance stacking.
Mine has a very slight wiggle on a HSP thorntail (1913) mount as well. I have tightened it down as tight as I can get it (its mounted next to my DD front sight) and still I get a little wiggle. Not a problem for me though since I have shot a thousand or so rounds with it mounted and it has never come loose. Checked it with indexing marks and it has not budged a bit. I would not worry about it honestly.
Mine moves the slightest bit as well. Tried it on RIS II and KAC RAS. Not enough to make it unusable, but still bugs me.
Mine moves the slightest bit as well. Tried it on RIS II and KAC RAS. Not enough to make it unusable, but still bugs me.
I put a small .014" thick plastic shim between the mounting screw and the metal area where it tightens against on the light body and there was no more movement on the KMR rail. YMMV
All good suggestions and I will try them. Thanks
Well guys, I can't try it on my Upper top rail, H-1 on a fixed mount and Troy folding rear sight both blue loctited in.
On the Spike's upper it was noticeably tighter. It was the tightest on the clamm piece of rail that comes with a Magpul RVG.
Short 2 slot poly rail piece.
I will contact Inforce tomorrow and ask for their help. It is annoying on the BCM rail.
When it moves, it sounds like an AR/AK trigger reset. It moves easily too.
Again, my first Inforce, Thanks for answers/suggestions.
Well guys, I can't try it on my Upper top rail, H-1 on a fixed mount and Troy folding rear sight both blue loctited in.
On the Spike's upper it was noticeably tighter. It was the tightest on the clamm piece of rail that comes with a Magpul RVG.
Short 2 slot poly rail piece.
I will contact Inforce tomorrow and ask for their help. It is annoying on the BCM rail.
When it moves, it sounds like an AR/AK trigger reset. It moves easily too.
Again, my first Inforce, Thanks for answers/suggestions.
Please post what you find out from Inforce. IMHO, if the captured clamping screw was approx .015" longer, it would tighten down and there would be no movement on the rail, yet you would still be able to remove the light from the rail. I use and like the 3 Bravo Company KMR rails I have, but I have had some accessories that would not tighten down on their top rails, but would tighten down on my upper receivers Pic rail. The items were the: Magpul RSA- Rail Sling Attachment, the MBUS Pro Offset Sight – Front and a INFORCE WMLx light. YMMV
I'm currently running four WMLs and all are rock solid. You could do what I've been doing lately and glob on a little Vibra-Tite VC3 onto your pic rail, let it set until partially dry (somewhere between gummy bear and maple syrup consistency), then clamp your light down. It's not permanent. You can scrape it off easily if you decide to change it out later. I haven't done it with a light, but I've been doing this with the optics and irons on my rifles.. you know.. just in case.
Someone suggested shimming. That would probably work too.
I'm currently running four WMLs and all are rock solid. You could do what I've been doing lately and glob on a little Vibra-Tite VC3 onto your pic rail, let it set until partially dry (somewhere between gummy bear and maple syrup consistency), then clamp your light down. It's not permanent. You can scrape it off easily if you decide to change it out later. I haven't done it with a light, but I've been doing this with the optics and irons on my rifles.. you know.. just in case.
Someone suggested shimming. That would probably work too.
What rails are you running them on ?
Q&A
How would tightening the screw make any difference? Movement is NOT side to side, it is front to back.
Side clamping has made no difference. The key is not thick enough to fit the 1913 slot.
Q&A
How would tightening the screw make any difference? Movement is NOT side to side, it is front to back.
Side clamping has made no difference. The key is not thick enough to fit the 1913 slot.
All I know is when I added the shim as mentioned in my above post , my light was tight on my KMR rail with absolutely no movement. I could not move it.
Q&A
How would tightening the screw make any difference? Movement is NOT side to side, it is front to back.
Side clamping has made no difference. The key is not thick enough to fit the 1913 slot.
Or the slot is longer than 1913 spec.
No response from Inforce yet.
Well, When I sent my email to Inforce I received an automated reply they would respond in 3 business days. Email was sent Sat 2-7-2015.
Today is day 4 and I will wait. What else do I have to do?
This is from Earl Pittman of IWC, Impact Weapons Components: I had asked him if they had had any problems since they sell the WML and Mount Combos.
Randy,
There is a tolerance for the width of the recoil slot on the 1913 Picatinny rail and INFORCE builds the cross bar on the WML on the small side on the tolerance, combined with the coating on the KMR and the WMLs limited leverage clamping system and you have the movement you're experiencing.
Best regards,
Earl Pittman
Managing Partner
Impact Weapons Components
970.980.8378
www.mount-n-slot.com
NRA Life Member & Instructor - Pistol=
"There is a tolerance for the width of the recoil slot on the 1913 Picatinny rail and INFORCE builds the cross bar on the WML on the small side on the tolerance, combined with the coating on the KMR and the WMLs limited leverage clamping system and you have the movement you're experiencing"
Said like the industry pro he is! The price you pay for a lightweight light with a built in clamp. I they had used a clamp screw that tightened with a tool we would be complaining about busted mounts. I am usually the last one to recommend patching things but here goes. Put a small dab of black RTV in the rail slot, install the light pushed all the way forward and let it dry a couple of days before f...ing with it.
I have a few WML and have one with movement. I just shimmed it with a piece of tape on the cross bar. No issues since.
What rails are you running them on ?
1. Mesa Tactical 870 barrel clamp pic rail
2. 2 x Gear Sector X300 mounts
3. KZ bayonet lug to pic rail adapter
(cheap and rock solid - I tried three different bayo lug adapters before settling on the KZ which really surprised me)
Said like the industry pro he is! The price you pay for a lightweight light with a built in clamp. I they had used a clamp screw that tightened with a tool we would be complaining about busted mounts. I am usually the last one to recommend patching things but here goes. Put a small dab of black RTV in the rail slot, install the light pushed all the way forward and let it dry a couple of days before f...ing with it.
Same concept as the vibratite... should work great... Nothing like a little goop to help with your tolerance stacking issues...
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.