View Full Version : I require assitance - choosing a suppressor for a Colt 6933 (11.5" barrel)
I've been reading a couple of the suppressor threads on here and I notice that a lot of cans go back over the barrel a couple inches. I have 2 Colt 6933s coming, and I'm looking to pick up at least one can for them. My concern comes from this back-over-the-barrel business though. I'd like to keep OAL down, obviously, but I don't know which suppressor models will fit over the small amount of barrel that's left beyond the gas block.
I'm not looking for "This company makes better cans than that company." or "This can is quieter than that can." here. I'll make those decisions when I get closer to finally making the call to a dealer. But I would like to know what cans will fit and what cans meet my needs at the same time.
I would prefer a flash hider over a brake if I have a quick-detach can. I would prefer quick-detach. These are simply my uninformed opinions, because I don't know anything about cans (obviously). I don't know the ups and downs of screw-on vs. quick-detach suppressors, and obviously I'm open to suggestion here. The only reason I would like a quick-detach is based on the limited experience (couple hundred rounds) I have with my friend's 9mm can on a Mac-11 (I think it was an 11). After a magazine on full auto, the can would start to unscrew itself and required tightening. That seems ridiculous to me. If a screw-on will be markedly more accurate than a quick-detach then perhaps I'll go that way. Again, I don't know a whole lot and am definitely looking to learn. Any help would be much appreciated.
No surprise for my choice...
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/kit_sbr.jpg
I would prefer a flash hider
>>>>>
There is an A2 Flash hider mount available.
I would prefer quick-detach.
>>>>>>>
Takes about 5-8 seconds to attach and remove.
If a screw-on will be markedly more accurate than a quick-detach then perhaps I'll go that way.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If you are "markedly more accurate" than your SBR, I'm impressed;)
There is no difference in accuracy between a thread mount and a QD that I have ever seen.
No surprise for my choice...
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/kit_sbr.jpg
I would prefer a flash hider
>>>>>
There is an A2 Flash hider mount available.
I would prefer quick-detach.
>>>>>>>
Takes about 5-8 seconds to attach and remove.
If a screw-on will be markedly more accurate than a quick-detach then perhaps I'll go that way.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If you are "markedly more accurate" than your SBR, I'm impressed;)
There is no difference in accuracy between a thread mount and a QD that I have ever seen.
It appears to be an OPS INC... A shocking revalation indeed!
Which model? What barrel length is that? A 6933 upper (or other 11.5" barrel) on a Noveske lower, perhaps? I remember seeing a picture -- I can not recall if it was here or some place else -- where an extension had to be put on the barrel between the end of the barrel and the brake so that the suppressor wouldn't extend too far backwards and hit the FSB. Is a similar setup used on that rifle?
Regarding the accuracy comment, there are other guns that I can attach this suppressor to. A friend's SPR build, specifically. :p
How exactly does it attach/detach?
It appears to be an OPS INC... A shocking revalation indeed!
>>>
;)
Which model?
>>>
15th
What barrel length is that?
>>>
11.5"
A 6933 upper (or other 11.5" barrel) on a Noveske lower, perhaps? I remember seeing a picture -- I can not recall if it was here or some place else -- where an extension had to be put on the barrel between the end of the barrel and the brake so that the suppressor wouldn't extend too far backwards and hit the FSB. Is a similar setup used on that rifle?
>>>>
Thats just needed for 10.5" barrels, which means you may as well buy a 11.5" barrel.
Regarding the accuracy comment, there are other guns that I can attach this suppressor to. A friend's SPR build, specifically. :p
>>>>
sure
How exactly does it attach/detach?
>>>>
screws on, and screws off
Hahaha... Steve you could sell oil to an arab. I love this thread. :D
which means you may as well buy a 11.5" barrel
Lucky for me that's what the rifle comes with. :)
So if it's a screw-on/screw-off, what's to keep it from coming loose? When shooting my friend's Mac, we tightened it about as tight as we could get it by hand and it still came lose after a magazine.
Is that just a problem with his suppressor, or did we do something wrong, or what?
When you screw the OPS can on it tightens against a shoulder on the barrel putting tension on the brake.
I shot 1K rounds through my OPS can yesterday and the can was as tight coming off as when I put it on.
Hahaha... Steve you could sell oil to an arab. I love this thread. :D
Its just my choice, it doesnt mean you'll be happy with it.
IMO:
If you want the shortest OAL package buy an OPS
If you want the nicest mount buy a Surefire
If you want the nicest fit and finish buy an AAC
If you want the best customer service by a Gemtech G5
If you want the best value for your money buy a YHM
For the practical application of anyone buying on a Form 4, all the above are more than good enough for what you need.
I am having a similar dilema as I currently have one 6933 and another, potentially, on the way. I'm leaning heavily towards the Ops 15th that bigbore has been pushing. I was resistant to it previously because I didn't know there was a flash hider mount available for it.
My other choice would be the Surefire FA556K, which is about $400 more than the Ops can. I started a thread about it which wound up coming back to the Ops here (http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=1528). You might find some of the information there useful and save bigbore re-posting the same pics.
If you don't mind waiting, or spending, AAC has what appears to be a potentially good competitor to the 15th and FA556K in the S2-R (http://advancedarmament.com/blackout/s2r.asp). If you can wade through all the bias and roundabout posting style of the original poster, we discussed this can here (http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=1570). I am somewhat skeptical about how long it will take for the S2-R to materialize on the market though, due in part to the fact that they're not even marketing it to the general populace yet, as well as the fact that AAC takes 40 forevers just to get models they've been selling for years out the door.
It does appear that overall the Ops Inc. 15th model is the best currently available design. I haven't seen a 556K yet (although I expect to in January at SHOT) but right now I'm not sure that the added cost is worth it for my purposes. I may personally wait to make my selection until after SHOT so that I can hopefully see and touch all of the offerings firsthand. I'm not terribly concerned with shooting them as most of the big name silencer companies (AAC, Ops, Surefire, Gemtech, SWR, etc.) 5.56 cans are almost all equally efficient at reducing the noise. Beyond that it becomes about aesthetics, the mount, the length added, the price, and the company.
If you want the best customer service by a Gemtech G5
Joe Gaddini with his SWR SpecWar-2 would be in this same class.
Absolutely unassailable customer service.
Bigbore,
About the a2 mount, does the sound reduction and/or sound signature change with it?
Bigbore,
About the a2 mount, does the sound reduction and/or sound signature change with it?
Its supposed to be quieter with the brake, but I cant tell the difference with my ears.
Well I have another question. I was looking for an FFL that could do transfers on my suppressors and SBRs (my normal FFL doesn't do anything class three, unfortunately) and the only one I've come across so far wants to charge me $100 for just the transfer. Now I'm okay with paying $25 to my normal FFL for a transfer because he's a small shop, and he's a really cool guy, and paying him for goods and services keeps him in business. But $100? Come on. I asked "Why so much more than a normal transfer?" (I've done one transfer through this shop before) and his reply was "Well, just because of the nature of what it is." (referring to my 2 SBRs specifically). Which brings me to $600 ($200 per rifle to the ATF and $100 per rifle for transfer from the FFL). And then I still have to decide on a suppressor and pay for that tax stamp and transfer as well. :(
So my question is this: is there any extra paperwork or runaround or anything for the dealer when transfering class 3 items? Or is he just being a jerk and charging me extra just because he can?
Not to be a dick, but I'll tell you what I tell all who ask why I charge what I do for transfer fees.
Get your own FFL, SOT, store front, insurance, deal with the ATF yourself and you can charge whatever you want for a transfer fee;)
There is a bit more paperwork for NFA transfers, but the responsibility for that item and its paperwork are much more than a standard firearm.
$100 transfer for NFA items, isnt unheard of. I charge $50 to receive, but nothing to transfer an item being purcahsed from me.
Not to be a dick, but I'll tell you what I tell all who ask why I charge what I do for transfer fees.
Get your own FFL, SOT, store front, insurance, deal with the ATF yourself and you can charge whatever you want for a transfer fee;)
There is a bit more paperwork for NFA transfers, but the responsibility for that item and its paperwork are much more than a standard firearm.
$100 transfer for NFA items, isnt unheard of. I charge $50 to receive, but nothing to transfer an item being purcahsed from me.
No worries on sounding like a dick, you're absolutely right. I could set everything up myself and charge nothing. :)
If he'd said $50 I wouldn't have really had a problem. It was the fact that $100 is 4x what he charged me last time, and the only explination he'd give me was that "it is what it is", basically. What do you mean by "the responsibility" of the item? Do you mean just while it's in your store, or even after it's transfered to me?
Yes, there is a lot of extra hassle associated with transferring class 3...but $100 is on the threshold of being out of line. I think $50 is fine and I start shopping if it is more.
There are a lot of class 3 dealers between Vegas and Reno so if you are not satisfied with the business you are dealing with then you should have no problems replacing them.
I pay $50 to my dealer and he does all the paperwork for me. All I do is sign the application and mail it in with my check and trust.
Even though I'm going to get blasted for posting this and being biased, there are mounts for the M42000 that would fit your requirements. The only reason that I went with my AAC is that It was the only 6.8 can that was available, but I believe that Surefire has one coming soon. I haven't decided on 5.56 cans yet, though right now I'm leaning towards OPS in the current offerings. But I think that I'm with Rob S on this one and am waiting untill after SHOT to decide. I'll post pics of the SOPMOD mount when I get home, It comes back over the barrel shoulder .995".
This mount will also work on a 10.5" gun if you get creative with your setup. My 10.5 incher with the fullsize M42000 has an OAL of 16.1 inches, but I run a PRI gas block and an 8" KAC rail. The coolest part is that the section of the mount that reflexes over the barrel is larger than .750 ID, so my mount fit over the area that Mr. Noveske machined to fit the Larue gasblock. No gunsmithing required. I believe that Denny at GTS has done the same thing with some surefire cans, and I'm sure that you could do it with the OPS cans too, but I believe you will have to turn the barrel down to do the same thing with the OPS. Just purely for information's sake I will mount a SCAR SD to it this weekend to measure the overall length. No matter which can you choose, getting creative with your build and researching your options will give you the best results for yourself, it's a big purchase, so don't buy on an impulse.
I have a M42K on the end of my 6933 and have no regrets.
ETA: I'm using the new style SOPMOD mount so that it goes over the barrel about 3/4".
Derek_Connor
10-03-06, 16:54
No matter which can you choose, getting creative with your build and researching your options will give you the best results for yourself, it's a big purchase, so don't buy on an impulse.
Truer words could not be spoken. Very well put.
Steve from ADCO can attest to my decision making process for the last 3-4 weeks, did alot research, learned alot.
I decided on a ops 15th model, to go with 12.5 noveske build.
couple reasons why:
1 - I like that the weight of the can is moved back on the barrel more compared to others
2 - I dont plan on taking this silencer off that much, and threading the can will *lend* itself to whatever accuracy I get out of the 12.5
3 - OAL will be approx 17inches when attached
4 - better balancing
5 - I think I am going to use the OPS brake, and then the phantom if I ever decide to shoot the 12.5 without the can on. I love the idea of the brake taking alot of the abuse
6 - reliability/reputation, hard to beat considering the actions of some other companies I have read through out the boards
7 - very quiet
8 - not cheap, but not expensive either.
9 - Proven track record.
I've been very happy with my KAC can.
But it does take an act of congress to get one now.:(
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a153/Fongman/M16_LW4.jpg
I've been very happy with my KAC can.
But it does take an act of congress to get one now.:(
Actually, there not that hard to come by at the moment (though I can't say how long that is going to last for though).
Actually, there not that hard to come by at the moment (though I can't say how long that is going to last for though).
They sure are cool looking, but after talking to several who have actually "used" them I would never want one. Common complaints are weight, sound compared to other similar cans, and major issues removing the things from the flash hider mount.
No surprise for my choice...
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/kit_sbr.jpg
I would prefer a flash hider
>>>>>
There is an A2 Flash hider mount available.
I would prefer quick-detach.
>>>>>>>
Takes about 5-8 seconds to attach and remove.
If a screw-on will be markedly more accurate than a quick-detach then perhaps I'll go that way.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If you are "markedly more accurate" than your SBR, I'm impressed;)
There is no difference in accuracy between a thread mount and a QD that I have ever seen.
My very first post here:)
Would you mind posting a pic with the can removed?
My very first post here:)
Would you mind posting a pic with the can removed?
I sold that upper off long ago, but heres the brake on my 11.5" do it all wonder SBRbine
http://www.adcofirearms.com/junkpics/sbr_brake.jpg
I keep seeing 9mm carbines with really fat barrels (I'm assuming suppressors) sticking out from inside the forend. Is this actually what's happening?
If so, are there any 5.56mm suppressors that will do this? Or perhaps the better question would be are there any rail forends (LaRue, KAC, DD) that will fit a suppressor inside their internal diameter?
Also, BigBore I have a question about the picture directly above. Is that an E1e on the very end of that 06:00 rail? If so, what mount is that? Also, it seems that you're not using the normal lamp assembly...
Also, BigBore I have a question about the picture directly above. Is that an E1e on the very end of that 06:00 rail? If so, what mount is that? Also, it seems that you're not using the normal lamp assembly...
LED head
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