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LDB
02-13-15, 18:02
So somehow even with two left thumbs I finished an 80% lower. Being the first time I've done any sort of machining or anything of that nature it was a lot of work but it was interesting and educational. Anyway, now I have to figure out what I want to do with it.

I'm 95% certain I'm going with a 16" BCM upper but might go with a 20". I'm also thinking about a fixed stock for a (maybe retro?) look.

The immediate question is which lower parts group. The only thing I think I'm certain of is wanting a winterized trigger guard but I'm open to any and all input on that as well. Are there any LPG's to avoid? Any one that's significantly better than all the others? Thanks for any and all input.

Sasahara
02-13-15, 18:08
Are you wanting just a plain Jane no-frills LPG or do you want something like a Geiselle trigger?

LDB
02-13-15, 18:12
I think I'll start out with a basic trigger. I don't need/want to go the cheapest route possible but don't want to spend too much either until later on when I'm more experienced.

GH41
02-13-15, 18:51
Pictures or it didn't happen!

oldandslow
02-14-15, 03:59
LDB,

When I want a LPK and a better-than-milspec trigger I order an ALG trigger with LPK from Brownell's, item #100-010-635 listed for $89.99 in catalog #67. The trigger is much better than a standard milspec but of course is no Geissele (but I think it is made by a sister company of Geissele). Good luck with your 80%er and if you need help with getting it serial numbered (not required but recommended by the ATF for keeping track of the lower if it is stolen) or anodized let me know (I usually get mine numbered before milling as it is a lot more expensive to do it through a FFL licensed engraver and anodizing company).

best wishes- oldandslow

LDB
02-14-15, 07:54
I left the 3 unfinished with the engraver yesterday. I was told I could use any engraver for my finished one as long as they will do it while I am there so it isn't leaving my presence. I've been thinking of building mine with the natural finish to have something a little different and unique. That ALG looks like just what I want so of course it is out of stock at the moment. Thanks for the information on it.

Microadventure
02-14-15, 09:40
How much time did it take to machine the lower?
How much time will the next one take?
Did you use a jig or fixture?
What kind of mill?

a possibility for serial numbers et cetera: http://www.etch-o-matic.com/eom.htm

When I build mine I plan to put the serial numbers of certain other possessions on the lowers. Not traceable to me if I don't want them traced, but if I want them traced, kindly explain why the AR-15s in your possession have the same serial numbers as my 1979 stereo and my 1946 camera, and why I have these pictures of the lowers with the same serial numbers just below the the serial number of the stereo and camera?

LDB
02-14-15, 11:47
It took me about 6 hours to do that first one but I've never done anything like that so it took longer for instructions/explanations prior to each step. I imagine the next one might be around 4.5 hours or so and any after that maybe 3-3.5. I did it all on a floor drill press with jigs just for that.

oldandslow
02-14-15, 17:52
LDB,

Sounds like you've got everything covered. For the engraving make sure they can do engraving deep enough to meet the ATF rules which I believe are 0.005" deep. Some of the engraving companies I contacted did laser engraving but their lasers would not go deep enough to meet the requirements.

I anodize my lowers mainly for the increased hardness to guard against abrasions and wear. Unanodized aluminum has a Rockwell Hardness rating of 38-44, Type 2 anodizing is 48-55 and military Type 3 is 60-70 (info taken from the "Fort Wayne Anodizing" website).

With the recent buyer's market with AR lowers it doesn't make financial sense anymore to do an 80% lower when you can pick up a completed, anodized and serial numbered one for $50-80. Good luck.

best wishes- oldandslow

GH41
02-14-15, 20:09
It took me about 6 hours to do that first one but I've never done anything like that so it took longer for instructions/explanations prior to each step. I imagine the next one might be around 4.5 hours or so and any after that maybe 3-3.5. I did it all on a floor drill press with jigs just for that.

I'll ask again... Can you put up a picture of the finished lower?? I just can't imagine one finished on a drill press being done accurately enough to warrant building with top shelf parts.

Ryno12
02-14-15, 20:13
I'll ask again... Can you put up a picture of the finished lower?? I just can't imagine one finished on a drill press being done accurately enough to warrant building with top shelf parts.

Why don't you cut him some slack? What parts he uses are his decision & shouldn't matter to anyone else.

MistWolf
02-14-15, 21:42
I just can't imagine one finished on a drill press being done accurately enough to warrant building with top shelf parts.

You need to stretch your imagination. More than a few lowers have been finished on a drill press using a fixture.

Let's see the lower you made

SeriousStudent
02-14-15, 22:16
Everybody take a deep breath and relax....

OP, there are some well-known places on the web with quality LPK's. I personally have had good results on builds with LPK's from G&R Tactical, Sionics, White Oak Armament, and Brownells.

If you do a search here with LPK Lower Parts Kit, you'll get good results. Just using "LPK" is probably too short a search term, I think.

Good luck with your build, and have fun.

LDB
02-15-15, 10:23
Here's a couple of photos, hopefully, if this works.

3170831709

oldandslow
02-15-15, 16:38
LDB,

Looks pretty good for drill-press work. On all my AR lower blueprints and manufactured receivers the rear pocket is connected to the middle pocket- on yours the rear pocket is separated from the middle pocket. I don't know if this will make a difference or not. Let us know how it works.

best wishes- oldandslow

jurassic
02-16-15, 12:59
That looks great!

LDB
02-16-15, 13:26
Thank you. The guy who mentored me said for a first try it was really good and one of the best first trys he'd seen. It was interesting and fun.

markm
02-16-15, 13:47
I'd love to do one of these, but buying the reamers and mill cutter doohickey would make the math on it a little upside down. If I had access to the tools, I'd be all over it.

LDB
02-16-15, 14:55
If you already have the drill press I don't think it's too extreme. The guy who did the group buy and then let me use his equipment bought drill bits and the milling bit off ebay and I think he said it was around $2x total for the bits. Now if you had to buy the drill press too then it's getting into expensive territory. Oh, I didn't think about the jigs for it. I'm not sure what those run.

MistWolf
02-16-15, 15:04
I'd love to do one of these, but buying the reamers and mill cutter doohickey would make the math on it a little upside down. If I had access to the tools, I'd be all over it.

You don't machine a lower to save money, you do it for the bragging rights and experience. That' why I really wanna do one