View Full Version : Starting to Reload - Equiptment Questions
I've never reloaded and I'm buying the stuff to start. I read the sticky(great thread), but still have some questions. Im starting with just pistol for now, will start rifle a year or two down the road. Right now I'm only concerned with 40SW.
Im buying:
Dillon RL550B press,
Dillon 40SW carbide 3-die set
Dillon crimp die
Cheap $40 Case Tumbler (dry, with media)
Dial Calipers ($15 @ harbor freight - I can read dials)
Powder scale(I havnt looked at these yet so suggestions are welcome)
I have a manual.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers?
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate)
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader?
Do I need a case neck brush?
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary?
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system"
Do I need a flip tray?
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything.
Do I need to spend more $ on a tumbler?
Sorry for the million questions, I'm sure these are basic simple questions, but I don't want to buy double or need something I don't have. Thanks, all!
This is a bit of a drive by post but certainly spend more on a quality calipers. Those are not the type of tools to cheap out on. I'd also opt for a single stage press & a hand primer, in addition to. Believe me, you'll be glad you did.
This is a bit of a drive by post but certainly spend more on a quality calipers. Those are not the type of tools to cheap out on. I'd also opt for a single stage press & a hand primer, in addition to. Believe me, you'll be glad you did.
Maybe down the road... just getting started for now.
And thanks, my experience with calipers is mitutoyo, so I thought I might be disappointed with $15 ones.
Maybe down the road... just getting started for now.
And thanks, my experience with calipers is mitutoyo, so I thought I might be disappointed with $15 ones.
I bought a progressive right off the bat & the very next day I bought a single stage to help out along side of the progressive. Like you, I started reloading .40 S&W & 10mm but the brass was bulged significantly so setting up a bulge buster in the single helped speed up the process.
Years later, I use the single even now more than ever.
I've never reloaded and I'm buying the stuff to start. I read the sticky(great thread), but still have some questions. Im starting with just pistol for now, will start rifle a year or two down the road. Right now I'm only concerned with 40SW.
Im buying:
Dillon RL550B press,
Dillon 40SW carbide 3-die set
Dillon crimp die
Cheap $40 Case Tumbler (dry, with media)
Dial Calipers ($15 @ harbor freight - I can read dials)
Powder scale(I havnt looked at these yet so suggestions are welcome)
I have a manual.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers?
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate)
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader?
Do I need a case neck brush?
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary?
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system"
Do I need a flip tray?
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything.
Do I need to spend more $ on a tumbler?
Sorry for the million questions, I'm sure these are basic simple questions, but I don't want to buy double or need something I don't have. Thanks, all!
Definitely spend more on dial calipers. Cheaper ones are made in China and wear out quickly.
Primer tray and flip tray are the same thing and yes you need one. Primers are poured in the tray and the tray shaken back and forth which turns them anvil up. Put the top of the tray on, invert it and this places the primer anvil down. This allows you to place the priming tube over each primer to load the tube. This is then placed over the Dillon priming system tube and loaded into it when you pull a cotter pin out of the loading tube.
The Dillon shell plate is cartridge specific and takes the place of a shell holder on a single stage press.
I've never reloaded and I'm buying the stuff to start. I read the sticky(great thread), but still have some questions. Im starting with just pistol for now, will start rifle a year or two down the road. Right now I'm only concerned with 40SW.
Im buying:
Dillon RL550B press,
Dillon 40SW carbide 3-die set
Dillon crimp die
Cheap $40 Case Tumbler (dry, with media)
Dial Calipers ($15 @ harbor freight - I can read dials)
Powder scale(I havnt looked at these yet so suggestions are welcome)
I have a manual.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers?IMHO, yes
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate)Dillon's progressives have this covered, but you will need one for a single stage press
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader?This is a tray to hold brass during various stages of prep/loading. Think of the 50 rd tray in an ammo box, but upside down. Not necessary for progressive loading.
Do I need a case neck brush?For straight wall pistol cartridges, only if you are OCD. Really only for bottle necks. Others may disagree
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary?Nice to have, but I don't always clean my plinking hand gun cases.
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system"Dillon has what you need installed. Download their manual and it becomes self-evident
Do I need a flip tray?No. I turn my primer box upside down on the table, and gently push the tray out. The primers will be face down, ready for the pick up tube.
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything.Not for mass progressive loading. Good for developing a load, or for getting that precise 1/10th grain needed for a sub-moa load
Do I need to spend more $ on a tumbler?You get what you pay for
Sorry for the million questions, I'm sure these are basic simple questions, but I don't want to buy double or need something I don't have. Thanks, all!
I agree with above statements on getting a single stage press. Jumping right in with a big $$$ investment on top notch gear does not shorten your learning curve. You will invariably get malfunctions- some will be minor (squibs, empty primer pockets & the ensuing powder spill), some malfunctions (i.e., double charge) can be dangerous. Go slow and just do your due due diligence on the loading forums. Reloading is a fun process, and IMHO you will learn more taking the slow is fast approach. I will head to my loading gear (in storage, not set up now) and attempt to get some photos for you.
I've never reloaded and I'm buying the stuff to start. I read the sticky(great thread), but still have some questions. Im starting with just pistol for now, will start rifle a year or two down the road. Right now I'm only concerned with 40SW.
Im buying:
Dillon RL550B press,
Dillon 40SW carbide 3-die set
Dillon crimp die
Cheap $40 Case Tumbler (dry, with media)
Dial Calipers ($15 @ harbor freight - I can read dials)
Powder scale(I havnt looked at these yet so suggestions are welcome)
I have a manual.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers?
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate)
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader?
Do I need a case neck brush?
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary?
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system"
Do I need a flip tray?
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything.
Do I need to spend more $ on a tumbler?
Sorry for the million questions, I'm sure these are basic simple questions, but I don't want to buy double or need something I don't have. Thanks, all!
Spend more on calipers. It is hit and miss with $35-50 calipers. Cheaper ones are made in China and wear out quickly. I now use electronic but going back to a 6" dial for around $100.
Yes, you need a primer tray sometimes called a flip tray. It is extra and doesn't come with the Dillon itself.
The Dillon has a priming tool built into the press.
I don't use a case neck brush or primer pocket cleaner because this gets cleaned up in my vibrating large Dillon tumbler. The case media separator is highly recommended. I've gone for years with a Lyman bowl type separator and finally sprang for the large Dillon media separator. It is sweet. They come in a smaller size just like their vibrating tumbler.
I don't use a powder trickler for the Dillon since I adjust the amount thrown on the Dillon charge bar of the powder thrower. I do use it for my single stage presses though.
Balance beam scales by RCBS and Hornady are fine. Electronic scales never worked well for me.
Hope this helps.
If you are reloading brass shot out of a Glock then you will need a Redding GRX sizing die to remove the bulge from case. this will have to be set up in a seperate single stage press. I went with the carbide version and run it through my RCBS Rockchucker press. If the brass is new it isn't a problem.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers? I only use calipers for OAL on rifle ammo. For Pistol, I just eyeball the ammo compared to a factory load.
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate) Shell holders are part of the Caliber conversion that you need for each caliber.
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader? You don't need that for a progressive
Do I need a case neck brush? NO!
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary? Hell no.
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system" Do I need a flip tray? You need pick up tubes and a flip tray.
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything. NO!
I need to spend more $ on a tumbler? A Thumlers wet tumbler will make your brass look great, but you'd want to decap the spent brass before tumbling
Answers in red based on my experience.
Questions:
Should I spend more on calipers? For pistol cartridges you really do not need calipers
what are shell holders and do they comehe reloader?(it says it co with tmes with a shell plate) Progressive presses use a shell plate that holds 4 (on the 550b) cases
What is a loading block - does it come with the reloader? don't need with the dillon
Do I need a case neck brush? no need with straight wall pistol cartridge
Is a primer pocket cleaner necessary? cheap ones can be found for just a few dollars. that said, not worth the effort for handgun ammo
Primer tray and priming tool - come with reloader? It says it comes with a "priming system" hand priming is a lot less of a hassel than priming on a press, a decent hand primer can be had for 40-50$
Do I need a flip tray? dillon makes a flip tray, get it if you plan to prime with your dillon press
Do I need a powder trickler? Im just loading practice ammo and don't need to get down to a thousandth of a grain or anything. no need for a trickler, the dillon powder measure is very good
Do I need to spend more $ on a tumbler? only if you want shiny brass, so long as your tumbler gets the brass clean you will be extending the life of your dies
Sorry for the million questions, I'm sure these are basic simple questions, but I don't want to buy double or need something I don't have. Thanks, all!
If you plan to use your 550b to prime brass I would suggest getting a cheap single stage press and a Lee Universal Decapping Die to remove old primers before you run the brass through your dillon. Depriming on the dillon lets lots of carbon fall right onto the primer bar and eventually it will plug up and cause problems. That said, just hand prime your brass, it is less hassel and you will not ruin as many primers.
I bought a $40 tumbler kit with media and it's still going after 5 years. I have the 550 also. I got a digital scale from either Dillon or Brian Enos (don't remember). A friend from church helped me set mine up to reload .45acp. Maybe someone in your area can give you a hand. Also, the Dillon instructions are very helpful, but if you get stuck with anything, call their customer service. I've called them with some dumb questions and they have always helped me.
If you plan to use your 550b to prime brass I would suggest getting a cheap single stage press and a Lee Universal Decapping Die to remove old primers before you run the brass through your dillon. Depriming on the dillon lets lots of carbon fall right onto the primer bar and eventually it will plug up and cause problems. That said, just hand prime your brass, it is less hassel and you will not ruin as many primers.
I agree 100%
I've got one of these for my lee single stage that works really well when prepping brass to run through the progressive.
http://leeprecision.com/safety-primer-feed-small-and-large.html
I agree 100%
+2.
I use a Hornady Lock n Load single stage press to decap the brass, and have a Lee factory crimper ready for those cartridges that benefit from crimping (i don't shoot 40 s&w so 'm not sure it needs crimping). Decapping and crimping are two parts that I prefer to do individually, and those are conveniently the first and last steps.
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He's got the 3 die set so He'll be able to crimp/straighten the case mouth bell at station 4 and not even worry about it.
He's got the 3 die set so He'll be able to crimp/straighten the case mouth bell at station 4 and not even worry about it.
Well, I was going to change to the lee deluxe carbide 4-die set as I can get it for a good price and I see it recommended often. Is there an advantage to the 3-die set? If I don't crimp, what goes into my 4th stage, nothing?
Im looking at a cheap single stage right now (lee) for priming.
Also, how do you use the powder scale? Do you use it to test how much powder is being dropped into the case and to adjust, then just reload? Do you check every so many rounds or is it a one-time use for setup? Im planning on finding a cheap target practice load setup and just using it to pump out rounds for right now to practice. Load development and stuff is going to be a while, so do I need one, or could I just borrow one from someone for setup?
You mean you are looking at a single stage press for depriming so that the cases can be cleaned before running them through the Dillon right? I'd stay with the Dillon carbide dies if I were you. Yes on the scales in that you have to measure the charge being thrown by the Dillon powder thrower. I may check once every 10 rounds and if it is consistent then I check once every 45-50 rounds. Don't cut corners with the scale. Buy one or take a chance of blowing your gun up and maybe hurting yourself. It is cheap insurance.
With the scales you can buy test weights in order to calibrate/zero your scale. Keep the weights clean from finger oils by using forceps to place them on the scale, and cover the the scale when not in use. As already mentioned, check the powder throw every few rounds for consistency. Some powders meter well, others not so much.
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With the scales you can buy test weights in order to calibrate/zero your scale. Keep the weights clean from finger oils by using forceps to place them on the scale, and cover the the scale when not in use. As already mentioned, check the powder throw every few rounds for consistency. Some powders meter well, others not so much.
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No scale that is targeted at reloaders will come close to weighing the oil left behind from fingerprints. Even if you get a scale accurate to a thousandth of a grain. Worrying about fingerprints on your check weights is rediculous. The type of scale that will notice the difference is a scale that will cost more than 98% of reloaders could afford. A finger print is roughly 50 micrograms or 0.0077162 grains. I bet there is not one person on this forum using a scale this sensitive. I know of some people using scales that are accurate to around a hundredth of a grain.
The average scale designed for reloading is accurate to a tenth of a grain. Finger prints are of no concern.
No scale that is targeted at reloaders will come close to weighing the oil left behind from fingerprints. Even if you get a scale accurate to a thousandth of a grain. Worrying about fingerprints on your check weights is rediculous. The type of scale that will notice the difference is a scale that will cost more than 98% of reloaders could afford. A finger print is roughly 50 micrograms or 0.0077162 grains. I bet there is not one person on this forum using a scale this sensitive. I know of some people using scales that are accurate to around a hundredth of a grain.
The average scale designed for reloading is accurate to a tenth of a grain. Finger prints are of no concern.
Jstone, you are correct, no finger print would ever make a lick of difference on the scale. It is however good practice, and since the OP started this thread looking for advice, I felt it pertinent to offer the good practice and technique I learned in a lab setting as an undergrad. Minimizing wear & tear and unnecessary dirt & grime by practicing good technique reflects the habits of the user. If there's any hobby where erring on the side of OCD is ok, I think reloading is it.
I've never reloaded and I'm buying the stuff to start. I read the sticky(great thread), but still have some questions. Im starting with just pistol for now, will start rifle a year or two down the road. Right now I'm only concerned with 40SW.
Im buying:
Dillon RL550B press,
Dillon 40SW carbide 3-die set
what are shell holders and do they come with the reloader?(it says it comes with a shell plate)
On the Dillon progressives - the shell plate is also the shell holder. "Shell Holder" generally referrs to a single stage press (switch shell holders to fit the case heads of different rifle/pistol calibers).
You don't need a single stage press or a manual priming tool to load pistol ammo. No need to decap pistol brass in advance either, unless you are processing military brass (with a crimped primer pocket). A single stage press may come in handy down the road, however. For example, I resize most rifle brass (especially .308 or larger) on a single stage, rather than putting that stress on an aluminum frame Dillon. Actually, I even resize .223 brass on the single stage, even though it's not really necessary to do so.
When I need to decap (only) in advance, I still do that on a Dillon 550 or a 1050. It's easy to up a seperate tool-head on the 550 (with a universal decapping die) for that.
You also need case gauges for setting up your sizer die(s). Optional, yes, but good to have.
Good choice on the Dillon Die set for the 550, btw. They are designed for progressive loaders(especially the sizing die). Be sure to read (and re-read) the setup instructions.
I always use calipers to set COL - even on my pistol reloads. Get something a little better than Harbor Freight or just go whole $hog and consider it a lifetime investment. I still have and use an older (less expensive) set of Midway digitals, even though I also have (and use) a nicer set of Mitutoy's. (The Midway calipers now stay in the garage next to my case trimmer.) The two read within .001" of each other.
Thanks for the advice all. Got the dillon 550 dies, and eliminator scale. I have a friend with calipers, and access to calibrated mitutoyo s if needed. I'll get the other stuff down the road. Next will probably be a tumbler.
I'll definately get a single stage and primer, but I'm saving for a wedding right now so....
bare minimum right now to get rounds downrange on a budget cause I gotta get ready for uspsa season!
Best of luck! You are headed down the right path and that 550 will pay dividends if you are loading for USPSA.
Thanks for the advice all. Got the dillon 550 dies, and eliminator scale. I have a friend with calipers, and access to calibrated mitutoyo s if needed. I'll get the other stuff down the road. Next will probably be a tumbler.
I'll definately get a single stage and primer, but I'm saving for a wedding right now so....
bare minimum right now to get rounds downrange on a budget cause I gotta get ready for uspsa season!
The $30 for a Lee single stage press will improve your reloading experience by a factor of 10.
But you'll quickly find that out soon enough.
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