I lucked out removing a flash hider.

[dpete]

I am in the process of putting a new locally made muzzle brake on my M4 and lucked out with removing the A2 flash hider. I stood the rifle on the floor butt down with the upper/lower between my knees, put a wrench on the hider and turned. Without any pain due to twisting the receiver between my knees the hider popped loose. Now my questions are, how far can I safely turn the brake into the used crush washer if its about 90* away from timed when its hand tight? Should I even try using the old crush washer? I DO intend on using a proper upper vice block, or barrel clamp for tightening and timing the brake.

[Ryno12]

I wouldn't use the old crush washer if possible. Certainly not if you're only 90° from index. I have reused them in a pinch on another rifle but I got over 270° out of it before it was set correctly.

The right thing to do is use a new one.

[dpete]

I wouldn't use the old crush washer if possible. Certainly not if you're only 90° from index. I have reused them in a pinch on another rifle but I got over 270° out of it before it was set correctly.

Can you define "set correctly"? If its hand tight now and needs to go 90* to be timed wouldn't that 90* be tight enough to keep it from loosening up? I'm just looking to understand things better.

[Ryno12]

Can you define "set correctly"? If its hand tight now and needs to go 90* to be timed wouldn't that 90* be tight enough to keep it from loosening up? I'm just looking to understand things better.

By set correctly I mean indexed or timed correctly. I don't use a torque wrench on MDs but I don't feel a quarter turn on a crush washer is sufficient either, much less a used one.

[MistWolf]

When a crush washer is crushed too far, the ID will shrink and make it impossible to remove from the barrel without cutting the washer off. If you try to re-use the washer, there's a good chance that will happen. Just throw the crush washer away and and use shims. Shims cost more but are easier to use and are re-usable if you need to remove and re-install the muzzle device again. Peel washers are better than crush washer but will de-laminate and distort upon intallation

[vicious_cb]

I am in the process of putting a new locally made muzzle brake on my M4 and lucked out with removing the A2 flash hider. I stood the rifle on the floor butt down with the upper/lower between my knees, put a wrench on the hider and turned. Without any pain due to twisting the receiver between my knees the hider popped loose. Now my questions are, how far can I safely turn the brake into the used crush washer if its about 90* away from timed when its hand tight? Should I even try using the old crush washer? I DO intend on using a proper upper vice block, or barrel clamp for tightening and timing the brake.

What do you mean by locally made muzzle brake? Just letting you know a poor quality MD is potential frag grenade hanging off your muzzle.

[dpete]

What do you mean by locally made muzzle brake? Just letting you know a poor quality MD is potential frag grenade hanging off your muzzle.

These are works of art. Google Overkill Customs Facebook pages for pictures and videos of their Bully Brake.
https://www.facebook.com/OverkillCustomsllc
https://www.facebook.com/OverkillCustomsllc/photos_stream
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1Nllzf1j_0

They make 2 sizes. One for .223-.308, and another for magnums up through .50 cal.

I appreciate your concern but they aren't made by any fly by night gang.

[markm]

If a crush washer has a lot of bell left in it, I'll reuse it... I shim almost everything, but I have one or two muzzle devices that need such a thick washer that I use a crush.