View Full Version : Dont cleant your sealed rifle can they say....
Figured Id drop this here and be a test subject for everyone.
Ive owned a AAC M4-2000 for several years now, I rarely shoot anything 5.56mm unsuppressed now a days.
Yes I understand almost every rifle suppressor manufacturer says not to clean sealed rifle cans, as they supposedly self cleaning. Hmm sounds somewhat familiar to the Vietnam era thinking of when it came to ARs doesn't it?
In my experience from shooting mine quite a bit, some sort of cleaning will eventually be needed. I am 8K+++ down my can, which is a heavily conservative estimate, and it has significant carbon fouling.
I have noticed that switching between different adapters, such as a MB to a FH on separate hosts will knock a small amount free, but still there is significant fouling.
One thing to note, I didn't use a FH mount until this summer, doing so knocked a few large chunks free, and then I noticed I had a end cap strike. Not sure I can 100% blame the carbon breaking loose causing this, but having that rattle around inside a can cannot be good.
Ive tried a few different thing, I have soaked it in mineral spirits, carbon killer, CLP, with absolutely no results. I have tried copper and steel brushes, with no results. The only thing that has even began to remove the fouling is a flat head screw driver and a hammer(yea its in there that good).
So despite the standard response of, you don't need to clean your suppressor, what can I do here?
Update- I already whaled at it with a screw driver and hammer. Next step is to either dip it or drop it in the cleaning tank at the shop. Ill post pics with the after action results of which ever I go with.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Screenshot_2015-02-04-17-03-39_zps5qwoqm1b.png ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Screenshot_2015-02-04-17-03-39_zps5qwoqm1b.png.html')
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_151655_zpsqvb2skjz.jpg ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_151655_zpsqvb2skjz.jpg.html')
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_151703_zpseiltkaha.jpg ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_151703_zpseiltkaha.jpg.html')
Updated pic after being tenderly loved with a hammer and flat head screw driver
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Mobile%20Uploads/20150216_204318_zps8xffmvhj.jpg ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150216_204318_zps8xffmvhj.jpg.html')
2ND Update: Now onto more serious measures.
First several cycles of the ultrasonic cleaner provided zero results. I was about to think I wasted my money, then a few more cycles and the tank looked like this. After the last cycle of the night I pulled the can out and could clean carbon from the blast chamber much easier than I ever thought I would. I think with several more hours in the UC it will provide nice results
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150226_203941_zpseympqken.jpg ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150226_203941_zpseympqken.jpg.html')
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150226_234826_zpspbtfrbmr.jpg ('http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150226_234826_zpspbtfrbmr.jpg.html')
Im still not done. Im going to do several more cycles in hopes it comes out looking new.
Ming_the_Merciless
02-27-15, 13:29
Ive tried a few different thing, I have soaked it in mineral spirits, carbon killer, CLP, with absolutely no results. I have tried copper and steel brushes, with no results. The only thing that has even began to remove the fouling is a flat head screw driver and a hammer(yea its in there that good).
Put the hammer and flat head down - let chemicals to do the work for you.
By far the best solution I've used is the "dip" - 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar (peracetic acid), leave it over night or flush it and repeat a few times if necessary. But ensure it's safe for your suppressor first (stainless steel or Inconcel), your M4-2000 is good to go. Don't forget to use PPE and dispose of it properly.
I also heard soda blasting works, but haven't tried it myself. I imagine it doesn't work well in a sealed can, other than the mounting interface. I've also read that CLR works, but haven't personally tried it yet. Even with the dip, especially in a sealed can, it's difficult with the caked on carbon, as you still need some abrasion to work or wipe the soften carbon out. I also haven't had good luck with ultrasonic cleaners either for the really caked on funk.
Look forward to seeing how much she'll weigh and the before and after pictures.
The hammer and screw driver is what got a majority of it out. AAC said it wasn't a bad method to use in my case.
I heard from a Surefire employee to use CLR. That's probably my next step. Then the Dip if that doesn't get it done.
I probably have only cleaned the can for an hour total in the UC. It has a 8 minute cleaning session as a max. That's been annoying to deal with.
I feel with enough use of the UC it will get clean. It definitely makes the carbon much easier to remove. Its just too bad I cant let that thing run straight for a few days as I know it would be good to go then
Eurodriver
02-27-15, 14:56
I have perhaps twice the amount of rounds through my suppressor, almost all fired from a 10.3" or 11.5" w/ Muzzle Brake and my M4-2000 doesn't even look close to that filthy.
What kind of shooting do you do? Mine has a very, very thin "film" of carbon and that's it. No chunks or anything like what you show in your pics
Also, on your PEQ how do you use it in the position it's in with the BUIS in front of it? I get really bad IR reflection when used behind a Troy BUIS
Little bit of everything. Goes to the range every time with me, classes, social outings, etc
Hasn't seen very much full auto.
I never dump mags through it
Eurodriver
02-27-15, 15:32
Hmm, I wonder if the lack of really hot rapid fire is the difference then?
Not sure. It has definitely seen rapid fire before as well as limited full auto. My firing schedules are just all over the place depending on where Im shooting at and for what reason
The difference between euros can and chase's can could also be from the brand/type of ammo used.
Ive used everything under the sun.
M193
M885
PMC .223
Wolf .223
Reloads
Hornady
Hard to say what I have used more. Very little wolf(1k) when compared to the others.
Ive used everything under the sun.
Hard to say what I have used more. Very little wolf(1k) when compared to the others.
Most of that filth and the end plate strike could be from the 1K of Wolf.
I know for certain wolf ammo did not cause either.
Both the filth and end cap strike was there before I ordered a K of wolf. Filth has been there for some time and Im just now getting serious about getting it out. Mainly due to switching hosts and having chunks break free from inside the can
I had no issues out of wolf ammo and got pretty darn good accuracy out of it. Its not my favorite, but had a line on some for real cheap.
1k is a drop in the bucket compared to how many rounds are through that can
I have perhaps twice the amount of rounds through my suppressor, almost all fired from a 10.3" or 11.5" w/ Muzzle Brake and my M4-2000 doesn't even look close to that filthy.
What kind of shooting do you do? Mine has a very, very thin "film" of carbon and that's it. No chunks or anything like what you show in your pics
Also, on your PEQ how do you use it in the position it's in with the BUIS in front of it? I get really bad IR reflection when used behind a Troy BUIS
I haven't had an issue to be honest. Its mounted right up against the sight. The red laser splashes it every so gently but not enough to mess with anything. I want to say the IR laser doesn't hit it at all, but the illuminator does splash on it a tid bit.
Really been no issue to be honest. No more than the PEQ2a I had anyways. I figure their all going to splash slightly.
Ive only used it once at night due to this ignorant cold. Sighting it in I got a nice hand size group at 100 yards, in complete darkness.
Honestly like this civilian laser much more than the full powers I have used, the IR laser isn't powerful enough to splash the target resulting in very good accuracy, for a laser that is
Once you get it clean is there any value or danger in soaking the ting if fireclean or some other chemical to prevent the caking to begin with??
Anyone try electrocleaning? Might help blow some of that crap out.
What about sending it back to manufacturer for cleaning and maintenance check ?
Did a few hours with CLR.
Here's some pics. Changed solution and going to do it for a few more then call it good.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150301_191548_zpsgx33mlza.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150301_191548_zpsgx33mlza.jpg.html)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150301_191336_zps4sfwjbb4.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150301_191336_zps4sfwjbb4.jpg.html)
Did a few hours with CLR.
Here's some pics. Changed solution and going to do it for a few more then call it good.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150301_191548_zpsgx33mlza.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150301_191548_zpsgx33mlza.jpg.html)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150301_191336_zps4sfwjbb4.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150301_191336_zps4sfwjbb4.jpg.html)
Yeah, I'd say that did the trick! Rattle can time.
http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm
I did several cycles all day long with CLR. I replaced the solution again with CLR before dinner. I cycled it for a few more hours. It didn't seem to be doing anything and I figured I finally hit a point to where it wasn't going to do much more. However I still ran one last cycle and the solution became dirty. So I decided a few more cycles were in order.
I left the can in over night. I hit it again with two more cycles this morning. I left it with the heat on and cycle running when I left. Ill pull it out when I get home later and call it good.
Im thinking about pulling it out and drying it, and then immediately running and firing a box through it. Seems the UC has softend up what remains quite a bit. Im wondering if the pressure from firing will knock what remains out.
It's hard telling but is there much left? Are the what appears to be gouges from using the screw driver to knock out the carbon?
There is not much left in the blast chamber. And what is left is likely not carbon, but either lead or copper build up. Cant tell what is left in the forward baffles, which is the area Im hoping will get cleaner by the time im off work.
Yea the scratches are from the screw driver. Non issue and wont effect anything.
So I take it we can check CLR off as pretty damn good eh?
Purple power took a bunch off in the beginning as well.
The CLR is likely stronger however, smells very acidic.
Purple power took a bunch off in the beginning as well.
The CLR is likely stronger however, smells very acidic.
CLR is caustic, not acidic.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
I told you CLR works. We have played with everything here in our R&D lab.
Oh one other things guys if you use CLR. Melonite parts will turn a bronze color so if you do not want that to happen don't use it.
Oh one other things guys if you use CLR. Melonite parts will turn a bronze color so if you do not want that to happen don't use it.
Sure did work great. Thanks for the suggestion
Wonder if the AAC latch is melonite. It turned a bronzey type color while in there the first few cycles. I was thinking it was rust for a moment. Then it went away after a few more cycles. It came out being the only part with a finish left as you can tell from the pics. Bronze color is gone now.
Its still laying in the tank so it should be interesting to see what happens when I take it out later. Will have been in the solution for over 24 hours plus a few hours of run time with the UC. Stupid thing only does 8 minute cycles
It is melonite. Good to know the color came back. Make sure to rinse that sucker out really well as well. Having CLR blow back in the face wouldn't be good.
So what's the long term effect on corrosion resistance? Those after pics look like all the finish has been removed. You can rattle can the exterior, but what about the inner core??
CLR is caustic, not acidic.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
Well either or. Im no chemist. I just knew it smelled like some bad shit haha
So what's the long term effect on corrosion resistance? Those after pics look like all the finish has been removed. You can rattle can the exterior, but what about the inner core??
The inside is not finished on any silencer I have ever seen.
Carbon will coat it shortly anyhow.
Silencer are built like tanks. They are not fragile.
It didn't effect our suppressors at all. We soaked suppressors in all kinds of stuff then cut them in half to see how well it cleaned. Didn't notice any effects on the material. No need for coating the core. It wouldn't last 20 rounds anyway.
It is melonite. Good to know the color came back. Make sure to rinse that sucker out really well as well. Having CLR blow back in the face wouldn't be good.
Will do. I plan to flush with brake clean then blow it out.
My plan is to run a mag through it to blow out the chunks barely hanging in there. The solutions and UC have really softened up what carbon is left. Id imagine itll get blown out with the pressure from live firing
Little better pic I took and didn't use last night.
It should be cleaner than this when I remove it tonight as the UC has taken more carbon out. Solution was near black again this morning.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150301_191523_zpsypryxtag.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150301_191523_zpsypryxtag.jpg.html)
Hmmm. I may have to give CLR a try. My blast chamber is nasty too.
Hmmm. I may have to give CLR a try. My blast chamber is nasty too.
If you wanted to protect the finish I imagine you just plug one end and fill it up. Of course you couldn't use the ultra sonic cleaner in conjunction though.
ETA. Wonder how clr etc would react with black oxide finish? I have a gemtech halo I wouldn't trying this on.
Leonidas24
03-02-15, 12:42
Oh one other things guys if you use CLR. Melonite parts will turn a bronze color so if you do not want that to happen don't use it.
I find this interesting. What in the CLR is causing this reaction? Is it a physical appearance change that's taking place or are chemicals rearranging in the melonite treatment itself?
Not sure on the finishes. Id expect it to remove just about anything. Was surprised the latch came out still black to be honest.
My stuff is used pretty hard. Ill just rattle can it as necessary from here on out.
Maybe someone will see my in the white AAC and think its a special addition and try and buy it for lots of cash? :D
Leonidas24
03-02-15, 12:50
I'm horribly curious as to what would happen if I dropped an M&P slide in CLR... This reeks of bad bubba-gunsmithing but the chemist in me is dying to find out.
Just a FYI for everyone reading.
I wouldn't recommended doing this type of cleaning very much.
Maybe once every 5-8K. Maybe. If my build up wouldn't of been like it was, I would have never touched it
Ming_the_Merciless
03-02-15, 13:43
Not sure on the finishes. Id expect it to remove just about anything. Was surprised the latch came out still black to be honest.
My stuff is used pretty hard. Ill just rattle can it as necessary from here on out.
Maybe someone will see my in the white AAC and think its a special addition and try and buy it for lots of cash? :D
Wow. CLR works. I'm going to have to give it a try too. Your can looks brand spanking new from the outside - I like it in the white. ;)
But if you do refinish it, Cerakote C-series is probably considered the industry standard, for rattle can I've heard Stove Bright (http://www.amazon.com/Stove-Bright-High-Temp-Paint/dp/B004YECMSG) works for high temp applications, but I imagine the CLR would take the finish off.
Did you get a chance to weigh it before you cleaned it? Curious how much of a weight savings you got when you removed all the funk. Do you also keep a data book for your MK18 clone? Curious to see if you get a noteworthy impact shift.
I'm horribly curious as to what would happen if I dropped an M&P slide in CLR... This reeks of bad bubba-gunsmithing but the chemist in me is dying to find out.
Buba. Do it. And let us know.
Some people think it's therapeutic to clean guns, but not me, I'd much rather throw parts into a bath and let the chems do all work for me.
Well here's the result. Still got something in the corner of the blast chamber. It's honestly gotta be lead/copper mix. It's hard as hell to break free and gets shiny when I poke at it.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg.html)
I told you CLR works. We have played with everything here in our R&D lab.
I may have missed this, but do you use the CLR full strength or dilute it?
Well here's the result. Still got something in the corner of the blast chamber. It's honestly gotta be lead/copper mix. It's hard as hell to break free and gets shiny when I poke at it.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg.html)
You could try the dip, but honestly Im not sure how to even dispose of that safely.
Well here's the result. Still got something in the corner of the blast chamber. It's honestly gotta be lead/copper mix. It's hard as hell to break free and gets shiny when I poke at it.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150302_220708_zpsbfsznz3i.jpg.html)
Where the flat surface meets the tube? That looks like it could be a weld seam to me.
-john
Definitely not a weld. All the welds on this can are spot on and a work of art. That's some sort of build up. As I recall from memory no welds were visible on the interior as they weld the outside of the core together and then essentially a sleeve over the core to attach the mounting piece to the rear. Hitting it breaks some build up free. It even imprints when hit hard enough so I'm thinking it's simply lead build up
Definitely not a weld. All the welds on this can are spot on and a work of art. That's some sort of build up. As I recall from memory no welds were visible on the interior as they weld the outside of the core together and then essentially a sleeve over the core to attach the mounting piece to the rear. Hitting it breaks some build up free. It even imprints when hit hard enough so I'm thinking it's simply lead build up
Try the dip, Im curious now.
Im not sure if I really want to mess with the dip. My goal with all of this was to get most of the carbon out of the blast chamber which I have accomplished. I was doing it more from a safety stand point since chunks were coming out after firing.
I have a member on another site mailing me a solution to try. Apparently him and gemtech came up with this solution to combat carbon/lead/copper build up in well used cans. Ill probably throw it in that stuff since he was kind enough to send me some, but really I want to be done messing with it. Im also curious to see if shooting it will knock more of the loosened up stuff from the UC baths its been taking.
Merciless Ming "Did you get a chance to weigh it before you cleaned it? Curious how much of a weight savings you got when you removed all the funk. Do you also keep a data book for your MK18 clone? Curious to see if you get a noteworthy impact shift."
I did not weight it. I wish I had something that would have been accurate enough to do that with. I know it has lost weight from all the stuff being taken out. It has to be lighter. No data book for the MK18. This can has lived on a 12.5 until a KB and just the last year or two on a MK18. It also goes between a bolt gun and a C93. I get roughly an inch POI shift on the SBR stuff. A little more on guns with longer barrels. Most of all the shift is straight down due to putting a weight on the end of the barrel.
Heres the MK18 in all its glory however. I love this little gun.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150208_143105_zpsyyiwl41x.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150208_143105_zpsyyiwl41x.jpg.html)
Since my can looks like ass, Im going to order a suppressor cover, finally talked myself into getting one.
Mirage sucks
I have a sealed .22 AAC pilot. Any harm in putting aluminum in CLR?
I have a sealed .22 AAC pilot. Any harm in putting aluminum in CLR?
The FAQ page for CLR says it can remove the finish and "pit" certain grades of aluminum. Soooo, maybe not a good idea.
http://www.jelmar.com/faqclr.htm
Djstorm100
03-03-15, 23:53
Are you guys just soaking the can in CLR or are you using a sonic cleaner too? 4-6 hours good enough?
Are you guys just soaking the can in CLR or are you using a sonic cleaner too? 4-6 hours good enough?
I used the UC. From what surefire described to me you could just plug and fill a can.
Id go atleast 24 hours if theres buildup and probably need a day or two more just plugging it
I wouldn't recommend doing anything unless you have build up along the lines I did. A dirty can is quieter than a clean can.
Definitely not a weld. All the welds on this can are spot on and a work of art. That's some sort of build up. As I recall from memory no welds were visible on the interior as they weld the outside of the core together and then essentially a sleeve over the core to attach the mounting piece to the rear. Hitting it breaks some build up free. It even imprints when hit hard enough so I'm thinking it's simply lead build up
Yah, kinda sounds like lead. If so, I'm guessing the can gets hot enough to melt lead at times. If so, that seam is probably a solid mass, like someone soldered it. Which sounds like it would be difficult to dissolve. Just a guess.
-john
I may dip it.
I did check and I have vinegar and peroxide if I want to do it. Were about to get snowed in again it sounds like so if that's the case I may do it for something to do.
But I agree. I think its some sort of lead build up. Theres not a whole lot there. I got it as clean as I expected to. I knew there was no way it would come out looking new again after that many rounds
Got a little something Im gunna try out.
Got this from a member on a different site
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg.html)
Got a little something Im gunna try out.
Got this from a member on a different site
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg.html)
Very interesting, looks to be not live on their website. Tagged for info.
I have a sealed .22 AAC pilot. Any harm in putting aluminum in CLR?
Drdremel, maybe worth sending it to Gemtech and getting the gCore put in through thier IOU program.
Eurodriver
03-05-15, 06:35
Got a little something Im gunna try out.
Got this from a member on a different site
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150304_103835_zpsfmdi4pd8.jpg.html)
Is that LRM Technologies based out of Alachua, FL? Chuck Smyder?
Is that LRM Technologies based out of Alachua, FL? Chuck Smyder?
I believe so,
Sorry I do not check this site as ofter
Alright.
I do not have additional pics,
But I tried the solution that a member from a different site sent me. Did it in the UC for several cycles and left it for over 24 hours in the solution. Went from clear solution to black in a hurry(again).
It cleaned up a little more carbon and some of the residue left. But it never did get spanky clean, but I never expected it to.
Took it to work today to throw in the shops cleaner to get all the solution in it out. Did a cycle in there.
One mechanic really wanted to try sea foam. Well so its now plugged with sea foam. Within a few seconds carbon was bubbling up, which quite frankly blew my mind as I figured it was as clean as it was going to get. So its currently doing its thing with sea foam and will for about another hour. After that Im getting after it with the industrial power washer we have. It takes paint off heavy equipment easily and is very high powered so Ill shoot it with that to try and get anything out that's barely hanging on.
Ill be done after this I believe.
UPDATE : 8 minutes with sea foam. Again, this thing was pretty damn clean before we dumped sea foam in there.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150319_155649_zpsrisasmf7.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150319_155649_zpsrisasmf7.jpg.html)
Alright guys I am done and finishing out this thread.
I got quite a bit of the build up out, not everything, but Im calling it good enough.
The sea foam had no additional effect. I had it soaking at work and as you can tell from the previous pics something was happening. I emptied it and took it home and filled it up again and let sit for several hours with no effect. You can finally see a small section of the weld for the blast baffle. I gave up on getting the gunk in the corners out there.
The can has now been bubba coated complete with a good fingerprint indention in the paint for ID purposes http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/smiley_abused.gif. I used automotive engine block enamel. I may redo the coating correctly one day, probably not however.
Heres what I got it down to. Not bad considering the start of this thread
Those little white fuzzies, their pieces of a paper towel, not my brightest moment.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_231615_zps4kitsqhn.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_231615_zps4kitsqhn.jpg.html)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_231710_zpsa0sieduz.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150319_231710_zpsa0sieduz.jpg.html)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150319_231626_zpsl52341k6.jpg (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150319_231626_zpsl52341k6.jpg.html)
Djstorm100
03-20-15, 09:12
So what did you fine that did the most cleaning? I know you mention it but I'm on my phone. Silicone coating proven to help prevent the carbon to stick to the metal. I read that on a link, I think in this thread.
So what did you fine that did the most cleaning? I know you mention it but I'm on my phone. Silicone coating proven to help prevent the carbon to stick to the metal. I read that on a link, I think in this thread.
Im not sure I would leave any sort of coating inside a rifle can due to the pressure involved. Its going to get dirty eventually, But realize I have put roughly 10k or more through this can. I don't believe you should take any measures until its actually dirty like mine was and carbon breaking loose is becoming an issue. I must note that I did shoot it the other week and I noticed no gain to sound suppression.
Its hard to say, everything did something. Id be really interested to see what the sea foam would have done initially, I would then follow it up with hitting it with a UC and CLR as a solution for a few days if a can was as dirty as mine, then chisel the rest out of the blast chamber. I have too many variables involved to say what worked the best.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.