300 BLK Jig - Where to buy?

[Eurodriver]

Anyone have experience with these jigs that cut 5.56mm brass to 300BLK length?

I am really interested in these, but they appear to be confusing to shop for. I.E. Which saw do I use? How does it hold itself in place? Etc

[IraqVet1982]

Go on YouTube and search convert 223 to 300 blk. There's a plethora of info out there.

Basics include a jig and a Harbor Freight 2.5" mini saw

[Onyx Z]

I will warn you, converting 223 to 300BLK sucks. I hate brass prep in general, but it's a necessary evil of reloading.

There's a guy selling a jig on 300blktalk that seems to be one of the better/faster jigs out there. I've been curious to try it, but I ended up making my own crude version out of plywood that bolts to my Harbor Freight chop saw.

[Eurodriver]

Go on YouTube and search convert 223 to 300 blk. There's a plethora of info out there.

Basics include a jig and a Harbor Freight 2.5" mini saw

I have. They don't mention where to buy the jig, or if they do they are out of stock.


I will warn you, converting 223 to 300BLK sucks. I hate brass prep in general, but it's a necessary evil of reloading.

There's a guy selling a jig on 300blktalk that seems to be one of the better/faster jigs out there. I've been curious to try it, but I ended up making my own crude version out of plywood that bolts to my Harbor Freight chop saw.

Yeah, VZ's seems to be the bee's knees but he is out of stock as well. I'm not sure if any of the stuff on Amazon is any good.

I understand what you're saying about brass prep. Cutting deburring, sizing, cleaning, etc. Yeah, it's a PITA for sure. But I'm poor and free 5.56 brass is all over the place, and 300BLK costs a fortune. For the last few weeks I have found myself becoming one of those obnoxious assholes at the range basically catching 5.56mm brass as it's ejected my way. I'm a brass ninja. :ph34r:

[IraqVet1982]

Amazon, eBay, etc... Just search 300blk jig. Squirrel Daddy is a popular seller. They just provide a reference point for cutting. You'll need a nice case trimmer to trim to length and square. That's the most time consuming.

[Eurodriver]

Cool. I've seen squirrel daddy.

Any recommendations on case trimmers?

[Onyx Z]

Cool. I've seen squirrel daddy.

Any recommendations on case trimmers?

I have one of these for 223 and 300BLK. They can probably be found for a better price if you look around.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/251243/little-crow-gunworks-worlds-finest-trimmer-300-aac-blackout?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[bullittmcqueen]

Eurodriver, here is the jig I use. It is made to fit a small cutting wheel that you can pick up at Harbor Freight. Sometimes quality there is shotty but I'll vouch for this little cutting wheel. For brass cutting it does the job.

http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80842

Here is the case trimmer I use, it chucks in a drill and then I just prop the drill to run the drill continuously and pop cases in and out.

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Finest-Trimmer-300-Blackout/dp/B00BF0J2MG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427816895&sr=8-1&keywords=worlds+fastest+case+trimmer+300+blk

I don't think converting 223 to 300BLK brass sucks at all. Once you get a couple pieces equipment and get a rhythm going, you can blow through a lot of brass quickly. Here is something I put together on converting brass and loading 300 BLK


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwgm3Tb0MhQ&list=PL2Ex-Uf59EHY2Z2ee6XZTLpd7MUhsvsj_

[kubmiester]

The Harbor Freight mini chop saws don't last long. My first one cut about 1,500 223 cases before it died, so I returned it and the second one only lasted about 500 cases. Spend a little more and get one that isn't just for light "hobby" use.

[masan]

Converting brass to a different caliber is always a lot of work, but things like the chop saw and drill chuck trimmers make things a lot less painful.

I still feel that ache in my hands from converting .308 to 6x47 using a jewelers file...

300 BLK is slightly less painful because you don't need to worry about trying to CoW fire form it. Also, being such a popular cartridge, there is a lot of support for converting .223 to 300blk.

[Travelingchild]

I'm helping a buddy make a jig for 300 blk, what is the preferred rough length before sizing and finish trimming?

[masan]

I cut at the body/shoulder junction, hard to give an exact number because the measurement will change between sized and fired brass.

[themonk]

Eurodriver, here is the jig I use. It is made to fit a small cutting wheel that you can pick up at Harbor Freight. Sometimes quality there is shotty but I'll vouch for this little cutting wheel. For brass cutting it does the job.

http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80842

Here is the case trimmer I use, it chucks in a drill and then I just prop the drill to run the drill continuously and pop cases in and out.

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Finest-Trimmer-300-Blackout/dp/B00BF0J2MG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427816895&sr=8-1&keywords=worlds+fastest+case+trimmer+300+blk

I don't think converting 223 to 300BLK brass sucks at all. Once you get a couple pieces equipment and get a rhythm going, you can blow through a lot of brass quickly. Here is something I put together on converting brass and loading 300 BLK


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwgm3Tb0MhQ&list=PL2Ex-Uf59EHY2Z2ee6XZTLpd7MUhsvsj_

I have the same setup, use the same jig, saw and timmer and it works great.

[Eurodriver]

Thanks guys. I got the jig and the saw.

Just need to save up for some components (150gr Hornady and H110 work for blasting?) and dies.

Are there any dies recommended to ease 223 to 300BLK sizing? I am not loading for accuracy, I am loading for volume so a two die set is highly preferred.

[Onyx Z]

Thanks guys. I got the jig and the saw.

Just need to save up for some components (150gr Hornady and H110 work for blasting?) and dies.

Are there any dies recommended to ease 223 to 300BLK sizing? I am not loading for accuracy, I am loading for volume so a two die set is highly preferred.

For bullets, I would look at these:

https://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=100001264

PM inbound for H110.

[BC98]

Thanks guys. I got the jig and the saw.

Just need to save up for some components (150gr Hornady and H110 work for blasting?) and dies.

Are there any dies recommended to ease 223 to 300BLK sizing? I am not loading for accuracy, I am loading for volume so a two die set is highly preferred.

Surplus M80 pulled bullets also work well for blaster ammo and may be a little cheaper than the Hornady pills, especially when bought in bulk. It doesn't necessary make the sizing easier but I started deburring the case mouths after I cut them with the saw. There's a fair amount of crap on the edges and that can get caught inside your sizing die. This will take care of that. If you do a final trim to length, take a look at the RCBS 3-way trimmer heads. They're a little pricier cutter but it trims to length, chamfers, and deburrs all at once and should save you some time.

ETA: Onyx Z beat me to the punch with the bullet options.

[Eurodriver]

Thanks for the info guys. I finally started forming 300BLK today. I got the jig off 300BLK and the HF saw as well as a Hornady 2 die set and an LE Wilson trimmer. (It's not quick, but I already had the trimmer for 308 and it cost me $11 for a new caliber)

I used a bunch of foreign stuff as practice with the jig/sizing die/trimmer that had necks too thick to use, and moved on to the real stuff. With a 2 die set it really doesn't take long at all to load this round. I'm too used to 3 die sets of 9mm, I guess. Also, Onyx, I took your advice and bought some surplus M80 rounds. I also have started to debur the case mouths after cutting and after trimming BC98.

With brass not terribly expensive, I'll probably stick to buying premade 300BLK but I enjoy knowing that I can do it if I want to.

I do have a question, however. When sizing I know you're not supposed to lube the shoulder. However, how do you know where the shoulder will be on a straight walled case when it goes in the die?

[Onyx Z]

I do have a question, however. When sizing I know you're not supposed to lube the shoulder. However, how do you know where the shoulder will be on a straight walled case when it goes in the die?

Do you mean how how much the die will push the shoulder back? If so, either use a drop-in guage or the Hornady Headspace Guage (my preference for match ammo).

It's never really been an issue for me if lube gets on the shoulders. I use Dillon lube and with it being spray-on, it obviously gets all over the brass. What lube are you using?

[skydivr]

I've got the saw and jig, but have yet to work up the rest...

[Eurodriver]

Do you mean how how much the die will push the shoulder back? If so, either use a drop-in guage or the Hornady Headspace Guage (my preference for match ammo).

It's never really been an issue for me if lube gets on the shoulders. I use Dillon lube and with it being spray-on, it obviously gets all over the brass. What lube are you using?

Nope, just wondering if I should avoid lubing the shoulder. It's not match ammo so I'm just going to size it as-is and see if it cycles. If so, then I won't worry about the shoulder.

I just cut 250 cases and deburred them. That was a total pain in the ass; it took 2 hours but I enjoyed it. Now it is time for sizing.

Is there anything tricky about this round? I'm just going to size, trim, prime, charge, and seat...correct?

[SkyLine1]

I recommend a cleaning of the brass before sizing. Great way to fubar some dies if there is brass slivers and debris inside the case and not seeing it.